[jfranci3]

I did this too.

Ended up having to do the whole cover. The reason the PCV went was because the channels were all sludged (likely from the oil filter housing gasket leaking coolant). I bought the Chinese copy cover from Amazon and so far so good. You get all the gaskets and bolts too. The cover wasn’t the same plastic, but everything else seemed to be the same material / quality.

[GreenMeansGo]

Originally Posted by PhaseP

Grass is always greener on the other side.

It is not economically meaningful to retrofit magnesium valve cover onto an plastic valve cover using N52. It will definitely cost more than a new plastic valve cover, it may come close or pass over the price of two new plastic valve covers.

In terms of hours of work, from my experience it is less frustrating work to replace valve cover than replace oil separator. I did a plastic valve cover gasket for a friend, and did replace my oil separator.

Technically one issue would be the heater electrical connector to all those lines that have heater coils on them. I believe some an electrical line from ECU feeds them and ECU turns it on based on temperature. 328's may not (most probably not) have this electrical line.

Even the engine harness is probably different. Plastic valve cover versions have some harness section going right over the valve cover. I don't remember mine has that section, it may be going around the cover.

Any good instructions for replacing ccv & pcv heater on the magnesium cover - 2006 n52?

[PhaseP]

Originally Posted by GreenMeansGo

Any good instructions for replacing ccv & pcv heater on the magnesium cover - 2006 n52?

It requires removal of the intake manifold. You need to look for DIYs on intake manifold removal. Starter replacement DIYs will be good ones because starter replacement requires intake manifold removal too.

PelicanParts.com has one on intake manifold removal:

https://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tec...eplacement.htm

and on the CCV replacement:

https://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tec...eplacement.htm

I would add three things to those:

- Do not try to pry out the junction box in Figure 19 at first link there. The tabs on the metal bracket are barbed and not meant to be removed once placed in. Instead there are two small torx screws that is holding the that metal bracket to the intake manifold, you can find them if you follow the bracket end to the right and left of the junction box all the way with your hand. Undo those torx screws and the junction box will fall away together with the bracket. For the torx screws it is better to have a short stubby screw driver that takes in torx bits. Try the exact torx size also, don't remember exact size. One lower torx size will fit but most like will round off the torx head.

- I do suggest removing the throttle body assembly completely from the intake manifold as one additional step. This helps with undoing the fuel purge line and a few others I don't remember. It makes it less crowded in there. The throttle body assembly gasket to the intake manifold is a sturdy silicon gasket, not likely you will need replacement. You can buy a replacement one if you are to go with the book.

- You will need to undo the oil return line that goes CCV to the oil pan, at the oil pan connection. Undoing and then putting this line back in its correct position and place is the most challenging part in my opinion (rivaling with the next one below). I use this tool for it, the red one 1/2 inch is the correct size. You could use any other similar tool as long as it can fit in there and is 1/2 inch.

https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-a...l-set/2356_0_0

I drilled a small hole on the flange of the red one from this set, and tied a long string on it. This is so that I can pull it out if it fell off from my hand down to the engine cover belly pan, which it will once or twice. I tie the other end of this string somewhere up in the engine compartment.

The way it works, you dive your hand down there towards back of the engine and in front of the intake manifold, from the top of the engine. No need to lift the car up and go from below the engine. By feel find the tube that is coming out of the oil pan and the CCV return line connecting to it. Slide this tool on the oil pan tube oriented such that the protruding smaller diameter section points up towards the CCV return line. Then you push this tool up as far as you can to the head of the CCV return line. As it goes into it, it spreads the locking tabs on the head of the return line. While the tool is in there unlocking the tabs, it has to be kept pushed up, you need the pull the return line up and away from the oil return tube of the oil pan. There are two O-rings back to back on that CCV return line. They grab the tube strongly, you will have to pull good to come over the friction caused by these doubled up O-rings to get it out. You won't have any room to put two hands in there, which makes it difficult. The whole process is difficult due to having not enough room to work easily. So you can only push the tool with the hand you have in there, and with your other hand you will have to lift up the intake manifold and so disconnect thr line over there. As such this should be the last step before completely removing the intake manifold. You should have disconnected every other thing from it already.

Another trick that I find helpful, after this return line is disconnected but before completely removing the intake manifold, I tie down a long thin wire to the end of the return line. And then remove the intake manifold, and as the end of the return line clears off, untie that wire and place it some where there. This way I have that wire at the same path the return line went through. And putting it back I tie the wire again and use the wire path as a guide to fish the return line back into its place correctly. Again it is too crowded there and the return line has one correct hole/path that it can go down to its place in between the tangles of fuel, vacuum, electrical wires.


- There are several electrical heater connections to a small "junction box" that is bolted on the end but inside of the fold of the intake manifold towards the firewall. All these connections have a locking point up, and to remove them you have to place a tiny flat screwdriver or similar into the correct side of the female part on that small "junction box" to pry out that the tab that has a matching hold for that locking point on the male connector. This is very simple thing, if only you could see them. You have to go by feel while your hand is 360 bent on your wrist Look at the pictures on PelicanParts DIYs to find the correct side and how to undo them.

- I do suggest buying a spare line that goes from valve cover to the CCV, and a spare line that goes from CCV to the oil pan (return line). These are very likely to break when you are undoing them. They are old and brittle and not easy to undo anyways. The return line has a ball operated check valve at the oil pan side end of it. If you don't replace this line, I do suggest cleaning that end with electrical cleaner, not break cleaner. Break cleaner does strange things to plastic in my experience. And test the operation of the check valve, by blowing into it from oil pan end of it, it should block. And then blow from other end it should allow air to flow. Be careful though, you are likely to get oil in your mouth while doing so, so don't say I warned you!

Ah also, it will help if you study and understand the working of the breather hose ends how they lock on. There is an ellipses shaped outer ring on them. When pushed in to connect, the existing two tabs at 180 degrees to each other on the other part go under this rings and lock on preventing disconnecting by pulling it out. These correspond to the shorter diameter section of the ellipses ring. But if you press on to the longer diameter sides of the ellipses ring against each other, you squish the ellipses into a circle now. The short diameter section becomes a larger diameter, and this expansion of diameter clears of the before locking tabs, and so if you pull it out while squeezing the two long sides of the ellipsis sized ring, it will come out. But you need to also notice it won't come out easily due to at least one sometimes two O-rings in there that is sealing it off. The O-rings cause friction.

The oil return line to the oil pan is a different locking type that I tried to explain above. This one can be disconnected without that tool also, if you can push it down first, and while pushed down hold on two sides of its knurled locking ring sections, and then pull it out while holding on to those not allowing them to go down and lock again. The problem, again, there is not enough space to do it just with your hands.

[blingers]

Originally Posted by PhaseP

- The oil return line may get blocked, which will cause the separator cyclone and the rest filled with oil and lose its functionality in terms of oil separation. Any oil from crankcase will end up in the intake manifold. The oil return line that is attached to this separator has a check valve ball at its lower end. This could also lose its functionality by sludge. It would be good practice to spray something like electrical cleaner down that oil return line to free the ball at that check valve.(While the line is disconnected from the oil pan, so cleaner doesn't end up at the oil pan). This check valve prevents air pressure coming from the oil pan up to the separator.

PhaseP you mention this return line has a ball check valve at the oil pan end. I bought a Rein return hose and it does not have this check valve. Not sure if that is a good thing or not.

[PhaseP]

Originally Posted by blingers

PhaseP you mention this return line has a ball check valve at the oil pan end. I bought a Rein return hose and it does not have this check valve. Not sure if that is a good thing or not.

How did you determine that it doesn't have the check valve? Check valve is part of the return line, integrated and it is ball operated. It is located at the picture I pointed with red. To determine check valve is there and functional, you need to blow into it from bottom end, and verify it gets closed when you do so. If you blow from top end air will come out not blocked. And if you shake it and listen to that end part I showed in picture, you will hear ball rattling.

As to what happens if the check valve is not there or not functional, as long as CCV system is functioning fine it would be ok. But if the CCV gets stuck causing full vacuum to the return valve, without check valve it can suck the oil from oil pan into the manifold. This can cause hydro lock of the engine, or engine quickly burning the oil and engine starving oil. Previous bmw engines had been reported to have this problem from time to time. They didn't use check valve there.

[blingers]

I used an endoscope camera and ran it down the Rein hose from the top. The photo shows the the area you circled.

[img]https://i.postimg.cc/BQ7D3DCx/IPC-20...38-04-1530.jpg[/img]

[blingers]

I just had a look at my original 2006 BMW hose (now broken when removing it) and you are right it does have the ball check valve. in the centre of the image is the ball and the other picture shows the reflection of the endoscope led ring of the metal ball.

now I'm wondering if I should use the Rein hose without the check valve (one less thing to fail?) or stick to the original BMW design? Has BMW revised this part since 2006 to remove this check valve?

EDIT: BMW made an update on the old return hose 11157527570(09/01/2004 — 08/03/2006) to this newer part 11157567801. the newer part might have the check valve removed.

[img]https://i.postimg.cc/VNnbXhPR/IPC-20...35-27-4660.jpg[/img]

[img]https://i.postimg.cc/FRvkpx9Q/IPC-20...35-46-3050.jpg[/img]

[PhaseP]

I don't know how to interpret those the pictures, I have no experience with endoscope imaging.

I already wrote about how to test and verify the check valve functionality in much simpler way and definite way. Also wrote why it is there.

Google for "BMW CCV oil engine hydrolock"

[E90_slides]

hello, hope this thread isn't too old. I have a 2007 e90 328i manual trans with a plastic valve cover. the ccv is integrated into the top of the cover, and i noticed that the nipple on the side of it is broken and I feel like there should be a vacuum line running from it leading into the intake correct? but unfortunately, when I watch videos nobody replaces the vacuum line to that nipple. So I'm wondering, is it supposed to be left open to the unmetered air, or is it supposed to be under vacuum from the intake? very confused here. my idle is fine when I come to a stop but after about 10 seconds it lowers from 700-800rpm to right above 500rpm and can feel the engine is just slightly shuddering and not a smooth constant idle like it is when I initially come to a stop and idle. So my only guess is a vac leak, I have already replaced spark plugs when I performed an oil change. Please need some help.

[F31B48]

Originally Posted by e90bae

hello, hope this thread isn't too old. I have a 2007 e90 328i manual trans with a plastic valve cover. the ccv is integrated into the top of the cover, and i noticed that the nipple on the side of it is broken and I feel like there should be a vacuum line running from it leading into the intake correct? but unfortunately, when I watch videos nobody replaces the vacuum line to that nipple. So I'm wondering, is it supposed to be left open to the unmetered air, or is it supposed to be under vacuum from the intake? very confused here. my idle is fine when I come to a stop but after about 10 seconds it lowers from 700-800rpm to right above 500rpm and can feel the engine is just slightly shuddering and not a smooth constant idle like it is when I initially come to a stop and idle. So my only guess is a vac leak, I have already replaced spark plugs when I performed an oil change. Please need some help.

No there is nothing that connects to the pcv nipple. You should scan the car for fault codes if thete is a engine running issue.

[850CSi]

Originally Posted by blingers

I just had a look at my original 2006 BMW hose (now broken when removing it) and you are right it does have the ball check valve. in the centre of the image is the ball and the other picture shows the reflection of the endoscope led ring of the metal ball.

now I'm wondering if I should use the Rein hose without the check valve (one less thing to fail?) or stick to the original BMW design? Has BMW revised this part since 2006 to remove this check valve?

EDIT: BMW made an update on the old return hose 11157527570(09/01/2004 — 08/03/2006) to this newer part 11157567801. the newer part might have the check valve removed.

[img]https://i.postimg.cc/VNnbXhPR/IPC-20...35-27-4660.jpg[/img]

[img]https://i.postimg.cc/FRvkpx9Q/IPC-20...35-46-3050.jpg[/img]

Just as another data point I just bought an OE replacement with part no ending 801 and I don't believe it has a check valve. No rattling, I can blow air through it in both directions, etc.

PhaseP's explanation makes sense to me. But looks like BMW removed it for whatever reason.

[blingers]

Originally Posted by 850CSi

Just as another data point I just bought an OE replacement with part no ending 801 and I don't believe it has a check valve. No rattling, I can blow air through it in both directions, etc.

PhaseP's explanation makes sense to me. But looks like BMW removed it for whatever reason.

thanks for checking! So your replacement part is a genuine BMW part?

[850CSi]

Originally Posted by blingers

thanks for checking! So your replacement part is a genuine BMW part?

Yup. This is the exact part I bought:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...se-11157567801



What an absolutely needless pain the in ass it is to get this manifold off! Spent several hours today pulling it. I wound up taking both the alternator and throttle body out. If you have bigger hands like mine that's probably a net timesaver.

[Brian86]

Seems like a good place to share this experience.

I have an early N52, metal valve cover and external oil separator.

Shortly after I purchased the car around 280k miles it suffered a catastrophic failure of the PCV/oil separation system. Basically I had all three common failures simultaneously.

The separator cone was completely clogged, so there was no passage whatsoever from the separator assembly to the valve cover. The diaphragm was also rock hard and stuck wide open failing to restrict the vacuum. Believe it or not the car ran normally and didn't really exhibit any symptoms.

Then one fateful night in the pouring rain my car started intermittently missing and going into limp mode. Felt like some sort of ignition or timing sensor failure. Has oil pressure, not overheating, just get it home. I was in shock when I pulled it into the garage and saw the exhaust smoking like a structure fire. Thanks to the pouring rain I had no idea while driving it.

That evening the check valve in the return line decided to get stuck open leaving a straight path from the pan to my intake manifold. The poor wagon sucked 2.5 quarts of oil up the drain like a straw over a 20 mile drive.

So much oil went into the intake manifold that there was wet clear oil dripping out the exhaust tips. With the intake removed half a quart poured directly out of the manifold.

I consider myself lucky that it didn't seem to do any serious damage to the engine (hydrolock?) nor foul the catalytic converters.

Installed a Beck Arnley kit that included the separator and all the associated hoses. Check valve present in the drain and all heaters and insulation. I cleaned everything I could but it still took 50 miles to burn all the residual oil out of the engine.

Removing the drain tube from the oil pan was by far the worst part of the job. I ended up snipping it up with dykes to get it to come loose. Disconnecting the same drain tube from the bottom of the separator in order to finally lift the manifold out was a close second.


So please, please... take care of your oil separator.

[Gytucci]

Originally Posted by 850CSi

Yup. This is the exact part I bought:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...se-11157567801



What an absolutely needless pain the in ass it is to get this manifold off! Spent several hours today pulling it. I wound up taking both the alternator and throttle body out. If you have bigger hands like mine that's probably a net timesaver.

on mine says BMW 1115 7567801-01 NORMA 198185-10 31/07/19 also doesn't have the check valve, it seems that for less than 2 years my car had new ccv valve and hoses. Car was smoking and I changed only ccv valve from febi, car wasn't smoking anymore, but after riding in high rpm it blow some smoke on a engine start and was using oil. So I took it apart again, thanks to you guys I realized that check valve is missing.

I wonder if BMW removed this valve so we change ccv valves regularly or something?

I would try to check as many parts as I can at the stores if they have one with the check valve. If not than I think I have to find used one or fit some valve myself. Any suggestions?

[blingers]

Originally Posted by Gytucci

I would try to check as many parts as I can at the stores if they have one with the check valve. If not than I think I have to find used one or fit some valve myself. Any suggestions?

the maxspeedingrods ccv kit I bought 2 years ago has the return pipe with the check valve. not sure if they have the valve in their current stock.

[PhaseP]

Originally Posted by Gytucci

on mine says BMW 1115 7567801-01 NORMA 198185-10 31/07/19 also doesn't have the check valve, it seems that for less than 2 years my car had new ccv valve and hoses. Car was smoking and I changed only ccv valve from febi, car wasn't smoking anymore, but after riding in high rpm it blow some smoke on a engine start and was using oil. So I took it apart again, thanks to you guys I realized that check valve is missing.

I wonder if BMW removed this valve so we change ccv valves regularly or something?

I would try to check as many parts as I can at the stores if they have one with the check valve. If not than I think I have to find used one or fit some valve myself. Any suggestions?

Question, do you have black steel engine oil pan, or cast aluminum one? Also xDrive or RWD?

Me having xDrive I had cast aluminum engine oil pan, and a plastic tube is screwed into the oil pan where the CCV oil return line gets attached to. This plastic tube goes down deep into the oil pan inside, it looks like was meant for oil dipstick use.
What I am thinking is, if this plastic tube was short inside the engine oil pan, there would be an "air break" between the tube's end and the oil at the bottom of the oil pan. Then vacuum cannot suck in the oil that easily in case the CCV malfunction in a state it pulls full vacuum from the return line.

I have seen the pictures of the steel oil pans, instead of plastic tube, they have a metal tube welded on the pan for same purpose. But I don't know if inside this metal tube goes all the way down to the bottom of the oil pan or not. If not, then it may have this air break distance that would prevent sucking oil fast from oil pan during a malfunction of CCV, which may explain why some don't have the check valve. But it is speculation on my part.

[Gytucci]

Originally Posted by blingers

the maxspeedingrods ccv kit I bought 2 years ago has the return pipe with the check valve. not sure if they have the valve in their current stock.

thanks, I send them a message asking about it

[Gytucci]

Originally Posted by PhaseP

Question, do you have black steel engine oil pan, or cast aluminum one? Also xDrive or RWD?

Me having xDrive I had cast aluminum engine oil pan, and a plastic tube is screwed into the oil pan where the CCV oil return line gets attached to. This plastic tube goes down deep into the oil pan inside, it looks like was meant for oil dipstick use.
What I am thinking is, if this plastic tube was short inside the engine oil pan, there would be an "air break" between the tube's end and the oil at the bottom of the oil pan. Then vacuum cannot suck in the oil that easily in case the CCV malfunction in a state it pulls full vacuum from the return line.

I have seen the pictures of the steel oil pans, instead of plastic tube, they have a metal tube welded on the pan for same purpose. But I don't know if inside this metal tube goes all the way down to the bottom of the oil pan or not. If not, then it may have this air break distance that would prevent sucking oil fast from oil pan during a malfunction of CCV, which may explain why some don't have the check valve. But it is speculation on my part.

It has metal oil pan with plastic dipstick like tube. I was thinking that BMW changed that plastic part putted valve there, but I found that the part is the same.

Your suggestion is logical and could be true, I would search for other engine parts catalogues to see how it looks. Thank you.

Maybe cutting that plastic would be an answer, but research is in the first place now.

I just joined this forum and I am surprised how fast people answered. Thanks for all of you. I will post my insights of my journey with BMW and also I will help others if I can.

[Gytucci]

Originally Posted by blingers

I just had a look at my original 2006 BMW hose (now broken when removing it) and you are right it does have the ball check valve. in the centre of the image is the ball and the other picture shows the reflection of the endoscope led ring of the metal ball.

now I'm wondering if I should use the Rein hose without the check valve (one less thing to fail?) or stick to the original BMW design? Has BMW revised this part since 2006 to remove this check valve?

EDIT: BMW made an update on the old return hose 11157527570(09/01/2004 — 08/03/2006) to this newer part 11157567801. the newer part might have the check valve removed.

[img]https://i.postimg.cc/VNnbXhPR/IPC-20...35-27-4660.jpg[/img]

[img]https://i.postimg.cc/FRvkpx9Q/IPC-20...35-46-3050.jpg[/img]

Part 11157567801 doesn't have check valve wiegths 0.076 kg (febi)

But there is other for Xi models 11157530829, new 11157567802 identical, weights 0.081 kg (febi)

Mine is not Xi model, but check valve is needed, so I ordered this part and I will update if it comes with check valve or not.

[blingers]

Originally Posted by Gytucci

Part 11157567801 doesn't have check valve wiegths 0.076 kg (febi)

But there is other for Xi models 11157530829, new 11157567802 identical, weights 0.081 kg (febi)

Mine is not Xi model, but check valve is needed, so I ordered this part and I will update if it comes with check valve or not.

any update on this?

[blingers]

I found a copy of the old 11157527570 return pipe with check ball valve on AliExpress (I am not affiliated with the seller) https://a.aliexpress.com/_mLsLRXp

they are cheap enough so I grabbed one as a spare incase I have to pull out the intake manifold again.

pics comparing the original hose to new one:
[img]https://i.postimg.cc/SRHFs87V/20210719-120410.jpg[/img]

[img]https://i.postimg.cc/nzb9Cvmz/20210719-120324.jpg[/img]

[img]https://i.postimg.cc/C5JRPXQB/20210719-120345.jpg[/img]

[img]https://i.postimg.cc/tJ91zp2G/20210719-120357.jpg[/img]