[n54335i02121997]

So, I've read through the Pelican Parts guide. Looks STUPID easy. I do a lot of FWD CVT's at work, they're not bad, just more involved. When the hardest part is removing the exhaust (that's not rusty at all, car is rust free), sounds like a cake job. No subframe removal either?? Hell yeah!

So, I see the LUK brand clutch for mid $300's. "240mm clutch set, comes with pressure plate, clutch disc, and release bearing". I've heard you need to replace the transmission bell housing bolts as well on these cars, so I got the 5 piece set in the cart as well. I also purchased the alignment tool ($5 and apparently the kit doesn't come with it). I also want to replace my rear main seal while I'm at it.

SO

Besides what I mentioned, what else will I need to put in my cart, especially to replace the RMS as well. Not leaking bad, but might as well since I'll already have it opened up. Besides the oil pan, that should be the last leaky area that needs to be replaced. Any other one time use bolts?

I was surprised at how fast that clutch went to shit. Couple months ago started noticing it would slightly slip under heavy throttle in 6th. Then it started to spread to 4th, within a few hundred miles, now it's in 3rd. Only when getting on it though. Don't want to scar up the flywheel, so going to avoid driving it. My other car, I went maybe 7 or 8 months and it wouldn't slip besides in 5th and 6th flooring it.

Have another car I'll be driving in the meantime. Should have the clutch kit by the end of the week or early next week.

Any input, or tips, anything else I should do while I'm in there? I have access to a lift and pretty much any tool in existence. Downpipes do NOT need to be removed, correct?