[mweisdorfer]

I just installed the BMW Individual Audio (IA)speakers in my 07 335i e90. I even added the tweeter on the rear door. That wasn't hard. You just need a 1 7/8" hole saw, a 5/16" drill bit & a dremmel with a sanding wheel. You have to start by drilling a hole in from behind the door panel so you know exactly where to drill from in the front. It's wise to poke a hole in the leather so it doesn't bind up on the drill bit and ruin your door panel. There is a plastic circle on the back side of the door paneI where the tweeter is supposed to go. I drilled the hole in reverse, on the front side, so I could get the leather scored. I used a set of garage scissors to cut out the leather from there. Then I just let the hole saw do the rest. The dremmel was needed to make the hole a little bit wider. The silver tweeter fit in perfectly and just plugged directly into the BMW IA mid-base speaker. It's secured to the door panel by a plastic screw on washer.

I amped them with a JL Audio 600/6 v2 & used an Alpine MRV V500 for the subs under the seat. I contemplated bridging the 4 channels for this amp to make 140 watts per channel. However, I noticed the amp is listed at 60 watts a channel at 2 ohm & 40 watts a channel at 4 ohm. There was a certificate in the box that stated it was tested at 106 watts per channel at 2 ohm. So, by that logic I deducted that the MRV amp probably runs at 80 watts a channel at 4 ohm. I didn't use the BMW IA subs. I used Kenwood KFC XW800 F. They have a frequency response of 40 to 500mhz with an RMS of 150 watts. They are only $85.00 each . I guess back in the day they might of sold for upwards of $150+ each. I had to shim the seats up 1/2" so they would clear. No big deal. You don't even notice the 1/2"; especially if you don't have your seat all the way down, which I didn't. I used SS 1/2" nuts on the corners and longer bolts to screw them in. The seat isn't going anywhere and is totally secure. At any rate, I have a 5th channel for a truck sub, which I plan on getting a corner enclosure made of fiberglass and using a 10" JL Audio Sub. This will be added at a later date.

The front door mids & tweeters plug into a cross over. You need a special harness to do this. The tweeters pop out and are easily replaced. However, you should make the wires maybe 3-4" longer for the tweeters. Use four butt end connections It's a really tight, unhealthy fit otherwise. The cross over box has to go under where the entry is, to the window control plug in. I just used Velcro to get them to stick into place. This is the only location I could find that you can still put the door panel on correctly. You have to clip a tab off, on the 2 prong connectors, on both the tweeter & harness for them to fit correctly. You will see the tab on connector that has to "go", in order for it to fit. Weird I know...

I used a JBL MS-8 DSP as first in line from the HU connected via RCA connections. Then sent my high output channels to the JL Audio Input channels via JL Audio RCA adapters. Then sent the power out to the speakers from the JL Audio output into the Technique Harness. Same concept for the Alpine Amp. The JL Audio 600/6 v2 does not need a remote turn on, but the Alpine amp did because I didn't feed it through the high level inputs, which I may still do. I used the JBL MS-8 remote turn on "out" feature to do this vs. going through the hassle of using a relay.

You need a lot of butt ends and a spring loaded crimper is a MUST. You also need quality speaker wire. Maybe jacketed in wall rated speaker wire. I had about 25' of some Monster XP in wall rated speaker wire left over from a logic 7.1 home theater project, which I did years & years ago. Hard to beat Monster back in the day. You will also need a fused, power distribution box & a ground distribution box BOTH capable of handling 2 gauge or bigger wire in & 4 gauge wire out.

[wyatth]

Nice work. Happy with it?
You started with L7, correct?

I have the base HiFi 676A in my E90M but need to step it up. Thinking about swapping in the IA/EPS speakers as well, with the Audiotec Fischer Match UP 7BMW amp. Are all of the IA speakers (not the subs, but the components/tweeters/crossovers and coax) happy at 4 ohms?

Cheers.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by wyatth

Nice work. Happy with it?
You started with L7, correct?

I have the base HiFi 676A in my E90M but need to step it up. Thinking about swapping in the IA/EPS speakers as well, with the Audiotec Fischer Match UP 7BMW amp. Are all of the IA speakers (not the subs, but the components/tweeters/crossovers and coax) happy at 4 ohms?

Cheers.

I did start with the logic 7 system. The BMW IA speakers are definitely a step up from the logic 7 speakers. I'm glad I did this.

4ohm isn't a big deal as long as you have an amp that can power them. The JL Audio 600/6 v2 at 75 watts a channel at 4ohm has more than enough power.

You'll need to run some quality, jacketed speaker wire to the center and put one the end of it into the harness and put the other end on the teal two pin plug in. You'll need a special crimper & pin kit.

https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-Profess.../dp/B00OMM4YUY

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...132360043~oeb/

The pins you need to add to the OEM harness are considerably bigger than the ones I listed above. I'm not sure what size they are.

[david in germany]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

I did start with the logic 7 system. The BMW IA speakers are definitely a step up from the logic 7 speakers. I'm glad I did this.

4ohm isn't a big deal as long as you have an amp that can power them. The JL Audio 600/6 v2 at 75 watts a channel at 4ohm has more than enough power.

You'll need to run some quality, jacketed speaker wire to the center and put one the end of it into the harness and put the other end on the teal two pin plug in. You'll need a special crimper & pin kit.

https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-Profess.../dp/B00OMM4YUY

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...132360043~oeb/

The pins you need to add to the OEM harness are considerably bigger than the ones I listed above. I'm not sure what size they are.

Having retrofitted the full Individual Audio setup into my 335i I would strongly disagree that the JL is giving those speakers enough power. As for using the Kenwoods for subs, search for a set of the Individual Audio subs and get some power on them, night and day difference.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by david in germany

Having retrofitted the full Individual Audio setup into my 335i I would strongly disagree that the JL is giving those speakers enough power. As for using the Kenwoods for subs, search for a set of the Individual Audio subs and get some power on them, night and day difference.

Originally Posted by david in germany

Having retrofitted the full Individual Audio setup into my 335i I would strongly disagree that the JL is giving those speakers enough power. As for using the Kenwoods for subs, search for a set of the Individual Audio subs and get some power on them, night and day difference.

I have the JBL MS 8 at -30db & the JL audio at 17.3 volts AC as suggested by the manufacturer. I'll say, it's pretty darn loud. This is especially true when I had the JBL MS 8 at -20db. I wanted the Kenwood subs because they have a range of 40 to 500. This is just like the Kicker SSMB 8. I wanted a sub that had great mid-base. I plan on adding a 10" JL Audio Subwoofer in a corner mount made of fiber glass down the road. Maybe this summer. I played Pearl Jam's Yellow Ledbetter today. The subs are definitely cranking but the seats aren't really vibrating at all. The sound is amazing at 75%. I think I hit the blending of mid-base with the front stage & under-seat subs perfectly.

[david in germany]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

I have the JBL MS 8 at -30db & the JL audio at 17.3 volts AC as suggested by the manufacturer. I'll say, it's pretty darn loud. This is especially true when I had the JBL MS 8 at -20db. I wanted the Kenwood subs because they have a range of 40 to 500. This is just like the Kicker SSMB 8. I wanted a sub that had great mid-base. I plan on adding a 10" JL Audio Subwoofer in a corner mount made of fiber glass down the road. Maybe this summer. I played Pearl Jam's Yellow Ledbetter today. The subs are definitely cranking but the seats aren't really vibrating at all. The sound is amazing at 75%. I think I hit the blending of mid-base with the front stage & under-seat subs perfectly.

Happy that you like it! And that is all that really matters. With the JL corner sub are you going with the 10w3 or the 10w6? Anything over 500w is too much for the w3 but the w6 eats it up!

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by david in germany

Happy that you like it! And that is all that really matters. With the JL corner sub are you going with the 10w3 or the 10w6? Anything over 500w is too much for the w3 but the w6 eats it up!

The alpine amp I have officially speaking will do 150 rms at 4ohm & 250 rms at 2ohm. However, I think I stated earlier that the alpine amps are rated much higher, after they are tested at the factory before they are shipped out. Mine was tested at 106watts at 2ohm when officially it was rated at 60.

The 10" JL Audio sub I was thinking about for the driver's side corner is the JL Audio 10W1v3-4 10".

[david in germany]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

The alpine amp I have officially speaking will do 150 rms at 4ohm & 250 rms at 2ohm. However, I think I stated earlier that the alpine amps are rated much higher, after they are tested at the factory before they are shipped out. Mine was tested at 106watts at 2ohm when officially it was rated at 60.

The 10" JL Audio sub I was thinking about for the driver's side corner is the JL Audio 10W1v3-4 10".

That will be a nice solid combo.

[Nickco43]

I put in a F series logic 7 amp and I am putting 2018 F38 HK speakers in. I wonder how the individual system compares to my setup.

[ironduke2010]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

I just installed the BMW Individual Audio (IA)speakers in my 07 335i e90. I even added the tweeter on the rear door. That wasn't hard. You just need a 1 7/8" hole saw, a 5/16" drill bit & a dremmel with a sanding wheel. You have to start by drilling a hole in from behind the door panel so you know exactly where to drill from in the front. It's wise to poke a hole in the leather so it doesn't bind up on the drill bit and ruin your door panel. There is a plastic circle on the back side of the door paneI where the tweeter is supposed to go. I drilled the hole in reverse, on the front side, so I could get the leather scored. I used a set of garage scissors to cut out the leather from there. Then I just let the hole saw do the rest. The dremmel was needed to make the hole a little bit wider. The silver tweeter fit in perfectly and just plugged directly into the BMW IA mid-base speaker. It's secured to the door panel by a plastic screw on washer.

I amped them with a JL Audio 600/6 v2 & used an Alpine MRV V500 for the subs under the seat. I contemplated bridging the 4 channels for this amp to make 140 watts per channel. However, I noticed the amp is listed at 60 watts a channel at 2 ohm & 40 watts a channel at 4 ohm. There was a certificate in the box that stated it was tested at 106 watts per channel at 2 ohm. So, by that logic I deducted that the MRV amp probably runs at 80 watts a channel at 4 ohm. I didn't use the BMW IA subs. I used Kenwood KFC XW800 F. They have a frequency response of 40 to 500mhz with an RMS of 150 watts. They are only $85.00 each . I guess back in the day they might of sold for upwards of $150+ each. I had to shim the seats up 1/2" so they would clear. No big deal. You don't even notice the 1/2"; especially if you don't have your seat all the way down, which I didn't. I used SS 1/2" nuts on the corners and longer bolts to screw them in. The seat isn't going anywhere and is totally secure. At any rate, I have a 5th channel for a truck sub, which I plan on getting a corner enclosure made of fiberglass and using a 10" JL Audio Sub. This will be added at a later date.

The front door mids & tweeters plug into a cross over. You need a special harness to do this. The tweeters pop out and are easily replaced. However, you should make the wires maybe 3-4" longer for the tweeters. Use four butt end connections It's a really tight, unhealthy fit otherwise. The cross over box has to go under where the entry is, to the window control plug in. I just used Velcro to get them to stick into place. This is the only location I could find that you can still put the door panel on correctly. You have to clip a tab off, on the 2 prong connectors, on both the tweeter & harness for them to fit correctly. You will see the tab on connector that has to "go", in order for it to fit. Weird I know...

I used a JBL MS-8 DSP as first in line from the HU connected via RCA connections. Then sent my high output channels to the JL Audio Input channels via JL Audio RCA adapters. Then sent the power out to the speakers from the JL Audio output into the Technique Harness. Same concept for the Alpine Amp. The JL Audio 600/6 v2 does not need a remote turn on, but the Alpine amp did because I didn't feed it through the high level inputs, which I may still do. I used the JBL MS-8 remote turn on "out" feature to do this vs. going through the hassle of using a relay.

You need a lot of butt ends and a spring loaded crimper is a MUST. You also need quality speaker wire. Maybe jacketed in wall rated speaker wire. I had about 25' of some Monster XP in wall rated speaker wire left over from a logic 7.1 home theater project, which I did years & years ago. Hard to beat Monster back in the day. You will also need a fused, power distribution box & a ground distribution box BOTH capable of handling 2 gauge or bigger wire in & 4 gauge wire out.

I know this is a 4 year old post now, but having just installed the EPS / Individual Audio tweeters in my e92 rear quarter cards, the hole saw technique mweisdorfer describes worked perfectly. I modified it a bit and simply used a 2" hole saw. It is larger than needed, and will mean your hole will be larger than the "tab" meant to keep the tweeter from rotating, but I believe the tightness of the IA tweeter "washer" will prevent any movement. Using the 2" hole saw means no dremel required.

mweisdorfer's advice for cutting from the leather side after drilling the pilot holw worked great too. My modification there was simply to run the hole saw backwards slowly and carefully, thereby cutting a perfect hole in the leather, the padding and the plastic (i ran the saw forward when cutting the plastic). The IA tweeter trim easily covers any slop.