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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > BMW Coding > BMWhat Carly Killed Lighting System



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      12-07-2015, 10:46 AM   #89
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Thank you very much for posting this. I was just about to purchase Carly but after reading this thread I decided the risk out-weights the benefits and the potential hassles.
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      12-07-2015, 06:09 PM   #90
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Actually same happened to me a while back when I used BMW original Tools. Then I asked a repair shop and was told that it costs about 830 bucks. So I searched further for "bricked FRM" and found many posts about that subject - long time before the app even existed.

A friend finally told me about the app and to perhaps contact the developers for assistance. From them I learned that it is most critical to ensure a sufficient power supply during coding - voltage should be around 12 or better higher - even turning on the engine is recommended if the battery power on its own is not sufficient.

Since then I keep using the app on many cars and never had a problem again.

Also they helped me to repair my FRM - even though it was damaged by the BMW tools and not the app. I aczually sent them my FRM and got it back repaired.
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      12-07-2015, 11:12 PM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sensible_ View Post
Should be ok, although for E9X 70a is officially recommended. It depends on what toys you have in the car as to how many amps may be required.

Like quasimodem says. The inc-700a is what most people get as it's cheap but works quite well. I think BMW officially recommend duronics or something similar but they are very pricey.
I ended up buying a INC-700 as an early Christmas present to myself. I found a Black Friday sale for it. I'll use it to when I code my cars and motorcycle
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      12-07-2015, 11:21 PM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r8ders
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sensible_ View Post
Should be ok, although for E9X 70a is officially recommended. It depends on what toys you have in the car as to how many amps may be required.

Like quasimodem says. The inc-700a is what most people get as it's cheap but works quite well. I think BMW officially recommend duronics or something similar but they are very pricey.
I ended up buying a INC-700 as an early Christmas present to myself. I found a Black Friday sale for it. I'll use it to when I code my cars and motorcycle
A worthy present! Useful item to have around. Nice one!
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      12-08-2015, 04:09 PM   #93
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I ended up buying a INC-700 as an early Christmas present to myself. I found a Black Friday sale for it. I'll use it to when I code my cars and motorcycle
How much did you pay for it?
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      12-08-2015, 07:51 PM   #94
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Quote:
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I ended up buying a INC-700 as an early Christmas present to myself. I found a Black Friday sale for it. I'll use it to when I code my cars and motorcycle
Congrats. That is a tough item to find in stock (at a reasonable price) let alone on sale. You probably could have bought a bunch and sold the rest on ebay.
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      12-08-2015, 10:28 PM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quasimodem View Post
Congrats. That is a tough item to find in stock (at a reasonable price) let alone on sale. You probably could have bought a bunch and sold the rest on ebay.
Yes, I know I could have picked a extra one and sold it for more. I think it was a temporary pricing error on the site because when I looked it up again on another browser before finishing the transaction it was back up to $529. I got mine for $401 shipped to me. Just a little disappointed because the charger won't work w/ the Lithium-ion batteries I have on my motorcycles. I have to either disconnect or put my old standard batteries in when flashing
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      12-09-2015, 01:37 PM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r8ders View Post
Yes, I know I could have picked a extra one and sold it for more. I think it was a temporary pricing error on the site because when I looked it up again on another browser before finishing the transaction it was back up to $529. I got mine for $401 shipped to me. Just a little disappointed because the charger won't work w/ the Lithium-ion batteries I have on my motorcycles. I have to either disconnect or put my old standard batteries in when flashing
It is probably safest to take the battery out of the loop anyway. You are not using the charger to charge the battery, you are using it to power the vehicle. I have wondered why we can just hook up the unit to the battery and power the car through the battery when the whole idea is to not use the battery.

That's a great price with shipping included. Last year, I paid close to $450 and then another $40 in Calitax through Amazon.
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      12-13-2015, 11:27 PM   #97
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wow,

did not know it was possible to fix the broken FRM,

interesting how they do that
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      12-22-2015, 05:43 AM   #98
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I personally don't think its Carly that messed up the FRM, as it can happen with OE tools as well and it happened to me before.

For FRM coding voltage has to be high, as any drop will result in frm going to sleep and the coding will be corrupt
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      12-22-2015, 02:11 PM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueBill View Post
Actually same happened to me a while back when I used BMW original Tools. Then I asked a repair shop and was told that it costs about 830 bucks. So I searched further for "bricked FRM" and found many posts about that subject - long time before the app even existed.

A friend finally told me about the app and to perhaps contact the developers for assistance. From them I learned that it is most critical to ensure a sufficient power supply during coding - voltage should be around 12 or better higher - even turning on the engine is recommended if the battery power on its own is not sufficient.

Since then I keep using the app on many cars and never had a problem again.

Also they helped me to repair my FRM - even though it was damaged by the BMW tools and not the app. I aczually sent them my FRM and got it back repaired.
Can you provide details? My FRM3 looks dead and I'm looking for someone to repair it (or try...)
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      12-23-2015, 02:53 PM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fbuzila
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueBill View Post
Actually same happened to me a while back when I used BMW original Tools. Then I asked a repair shop and was told that it costs about 830 bucks. So I searched further for "bricked FRM" and found many posts about that subject - long time before the app even existed.

A friend finally told me about the app and to perhaps contact the developers for assistance. From them I learned that it is most critical to ensure a sufficient power supply during coding - voltage should be around 12 or better higher - even turning on the engine is recommended if the battery power on its own is not sufficient.

Since then I keep using the app on many cars and never had a problem again.

Also they helped me to repair my FRM - even though it was damaged by the BMW tools and not the app. I aczually sent them my FRM and got it back repaired.
Can you provide details? My FRM3 looks dead and I'm looking for someone to repair it (or try...)
Have a look at the FRM3 Resurrection thread. Instructions to recover your module are inside...
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      12-28-2015, 04:41 AM   #101
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You just explained exactly the same thing that happened to me when my FRM module was fried. None of the electrical systems were working including angel eyes, windows, cluster lights and locks. It displayed the same message on my iDrive. What's weird was it happened after I had someone install an RB PCV valve (smoking up issues) and they pulled the fuse to the fuel pump and then it stopped working. Used the BMWHAT/Carly app a week before to try to turn the signals back to three blinks instead of one because I was getting an error message for my lights but the coding didn't work. Had to get my FRM module replaced at the dealership.
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      01-01-2016, 04:28 PM   #102
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How much did that replacement cost you?

BTW - When mine died, I happened to have the windows open. Big mistake, because I couldn't close the windows, which meant no driving in the rain. My 45 minute drive to the dealer was pretty hellish too - it was only 45 degrees, which is a LOT colder when you have wind coming into the car at 50 MPH

I now refuse to do any coding because I don't have an adequate battery charger.
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      01-02-2016, 02:52 PM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wilbur_the_goose
How much did that replacement cost you?

BTW - When mine died, I happened to have the windows open. Big mistake, because I couldn't close the windows, which meant no driving in the rain. My 45 minute drive to the dealer was pretty hellish too - it was only 45 degrees, which is a LOT colder when you have wind coming into the car at 50 MPH

I now refuse to do any coding because I don't have an adequate battery charger.
Unfortunately, it happened when I was making a trip to Southern California. I had someone install PCV valve and after that, nothing electrical worked. The front two windows wouldn't work but the rears worked. So happened that I was close to a mod friendly dealership that I usually go to down there for and they covered it under warranty or else it would've been around $1000.
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      01-06-2016, 01:41 AM   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quasimodem View Post
It is probably safest to take the battery out of the loop anyway. You are not using the charger to charge the battery, you are using it to power the vehicle. I have wondered why we can just hook up the unit to the battery and power the car through the battery when the whole idea is to not use the battery.
I'm about to code my car and was wondering if you connected the Schumacher power supply to the connection points under the hood or directly to the battery.

Thank you
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      01-06-2016, 06:26 AM   #105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r8ders
Quote:
Originally Posted by Quasimodem View Post
It is probably safest to take the battery out of the loop anyway. You are not using the charger to charge the battery, you are using it to power the vehicle. I have wondered why we can just hook up the unit to the battery and power the car through the battery when the whole idea is to not use the battery.
I'm about to code my car and was wondering if you connected the Schumacher power supply to the connection points under the hood or directly to the battery.

Thank you
It doesn't matter, both achieve the same.
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      01-06-2016, 09:11 AM   #106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r8ders View Post
I'm about to code my car and was wondering if you connected the Schumacher power supply to the connection points under the hood or directly to the battery.

Thank you
Quote:
Originally Posted by wildcatcrazy View Post
It doesn't matter, both achieve the same.
BMW does not recommend connecting a charger directly to the battery:
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      01-28-2016, 05:51 PM   #107
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Where can I download NCS Expert and other programs needed for this?
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      01-28-2016, 10:46 PM   #108
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Where can I download NCS Expert and other programs needed for this?
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1204192
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      01-29-2016, 10:53 AM   #109
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Thank you so much, that's so good!
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      02-18-2016, 02:15 AM   #110
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Wish I saw this before I got mine. Just found this ebay link with them selling the Schumacher INC-700A for $368.10 which is a great deal. they have 2 left

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DSR-Power-Su...644173&vxp=mtr
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