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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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VRSF CP Blow Off
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08-11-2015, 01:13 PM | #1 |
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VRSF CP Blow Off
For some reason under heavy loads my CP disconnects. Whenever the boost creeps past 15 lbs I start to hear a whine from under the hood. If I keep the throttle up (or WOT) the charge pipe disconnects right at the throttle body. Does anyone have any idea what could cause this? Was thinking maybe I'll try to take it apart and re lube the O-Ring (or check to see if maybe some how the O-ring came out?
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08-11-2015, 02:49 PM | #3 |
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08-11-2015, 03:30 PM | #5 |
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It feels like maybe it's leaking. As the car spools up, I start to hear a noise at about 15 lbs. If I keep pushing it that high with back to back pulls, I did manage to get it to pop off completely. I tried pushing it back on to click and then sliding the clip back on. Next I was considering maybe bending the C clip just a bit in case it's just not on there tight enough.
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08-11-2015, 05:17 PM | #6 |
Major General
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I have a vrsf and have driven many times at over 17psi for a couple months now and it has been fine. Doesn't the flow go from intercooler to throttle body? In which case it would not have to be super tight to hold.
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2013 335i Msport Black sapphire/Coral red. MHD. stage 2--e30 VRSF DP, ER CP, Dinan Shockware. VRSF 12mm/15mm spacers. Cobra dashcam. Various codings.
Last car: 2011 335i Msport. JB4. Vrsf CP |
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08-11-2015, 08:41 PM | #7 |
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Are you using the o-ring we provided or the OEM o-ring? The OEM o-ring will not work with our CP since it's too small. We include a larger o-ring with our chargepipes that has a larger surface area to prevent boost leaks at higher pressures.
Make sure the pipe is completely seated on the throttle body, sometimes only one side of the c-clip seats because there wasn't enough pressure applied to the CP onto the TB |
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08-12-2015, 09:04 AM | #8 | |
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Drives: C6 Z06, 09 335i, 10 335xi
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: www.TopGearSolutions.com
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Quote:
The VRSF CP will require the use of their specific O ring. The OEM o ring is not sufficient. |
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08-12-2015, 10:32 AM | #9 | |
Private First Class
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Quote:
As an engineer and a customer of yours, I highly recommend you add a 2nd O-ring to this CP connection. A single O-ring is not sufficient IMO to guarantee proper sealing. The single O-ring is subject to having proper on-axis alignment of the CP to the TB. If you went to 2 O-rings, they would help align the joint and have a higher % of sealing, even beyond the OEM pipe. IMO, this is a cheap, cheap fix and should add value to you and your customers. A single O-ring can work, but is subject to having proper alignment. This is a variable that is tough to control since you removed the mounting bracket on the CP. Enlarging the O-ring (thickness) makes this joint more "flexible" and allows the CP to be misaligned, causing potential leaks. I understand why you did it, but Your CP metal- TB metal fitment "as is" is too loose to work with just a single O-ring consistently. This joint can move about 5deg off axis. Mine is leaking too BTW and I will probably have a local machine shop add the 2nd groove. I can provide a fully detailed drawing of your connector ring, once I remove it this weekend. Not trying to bash your products (I think they are great value and generally well engineered), just trying to help improve them. I would also love for VRSF to release a full piping kit for our cars. I hate the stock piping and would love to hand you money for these. (or help develop them..... for free parts. We need more N55 turbo inlets and for someone to make a compressor outlet-IC pipe. Bill Knestrick |
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08-12-2015, 11:54 AM | #10 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
Jeff thanks for that idea - I'll be taking it out to play around with an M3 later this week. If I can reproduce the issue, I'll bend it a bit and see if that remedies the issue. |
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08-12-2015, 09:51 PM | #11 | |
Captain
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Quote:
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08-12-2015, 10:52 PM | #12 |
First Lieutenant
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Update:
Went for some testing today, once I got it up to WOT I heard a pop and lost boost (3 codes for low boost pressure and then the half engine light came on, but no SES light). I tried bending the C Clip a bit to see if it was leaking from there, but that didn't help. Tried to play with it a few times to see if maybe it wasn't seated correctly, but it seems that's no longer the issue. I wasn't able to get a good look but I think it may be one of the couplings on the FMIC - when I flashed a light over it, I could see one of the pipes had a streak across it where dust hadn't settled on my otherwise dirty engine bay (picture wiping your hand across the bottom edge of a dusty table). I'm guessing that this may be the loose point of the connection but won't know for sure until I can get it on a lift and take the plastics out of the way. Hopefully a quick fix! |
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08-14-2015, 07:13 AM | #13 |
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Rig up a pressure test fitting in the Meth bung. Need some 1.8" NPT fittings.
1/8" Tank valve http://www.amazon.com/Milton-684-NPT...npt+tank+valve 1/8" Gauge 0-30psi http://www.amazon.com/Winters-Econom...pressure+gauge 1/8" male female Tee http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006PKKXM4/ref=biss_dp_t_asn $20 and you can test all your FMIC connections easily. |
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08-14-2015, 11:32 AM | #14 |
First Lieutenant
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Thanks for that, I may see if I can try that this weekend. If not, I have an appointment set up for Tuesday at a local shop to have them take care of it. Pretty sure it's the turbo side. Just want this thing back up and running - when the connections aren't loose, this thing moves like an animal now!
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08-14-2015, 06:26 PM | #15 |
First Lieutenant
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Couplings were loose on FMIC - everything is tightened down now. Holding boost to 18 pounds like a champ. Next up will be a tune hopefully sooner rather than later.
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