[Kyronwicker123]

Planning on upgrading my control arms on my 335is.. I'm just curious what's the difference between these 2? Should I buy the cheaper one or the more expensive one and which is best value?[IMG][/IMG]

[neilvan]

One is just the front arms, one has the fronts + the certain rear arms that fit the non-M3 e90s

[gjm120]

Read this before you spend the extra on the rear control arms.

https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1079383

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by Kyronwicker123

Planning on upgrading my control arms on my 335is.. I'm just curious what's the difference between these 2? Should I buy the cheaper one or the more expensive one and which is best value?[IMG][/IMG]

Getting the rear M3 arms may or may not be a waste of money. If your current OEM rear arms are shot or getting close to the end of their life, then getting the m3 rear arms is not a waste of money IMO.

However, if your current OEM arms are new or still very much viable then they are a waste of money.

There is a small premium between the rear OEM arms & the M3 arms. $309 vs $364

[M2joey]

The front arms will be of most benefit, better steering response, added feedback, and giving an additional -0.25 of negative camber. In short, the rears will pretty much be a complete waste of money, unless you are going to hit the track with more mechanical grip (ie wider wheel and stickier tire). I have done all of the M3 arms and the car was amazing, with Ohlins R&T as well.

[ozi]

I was thinking about getting m3 front control arms too and I was wondering does they affect highway stability or driving straight? My route to work is just 40 miles highway and I wouldn't want to compromise either.

[aphael]

the front m3 control arms and the tension rods are mainly the ones you need to do. The rears are basically just all replaced with aluminum which is lighter, but theres no significnat difference.

[Seattlesquash]

Originally Posted by ozi

I was thinking about getting m3 front control arms too and I was wondering does they affect highway stability or driving straight? My route to work is just 40 miles highway and I wouldn't want to compromise either.

I had these for 6 years, drivability and tire wear is great, just a little better! Do it!

[The Nightman]

The front tension strut will make the biggest difference by replacing the stock fluid filled bushing with a solid rubber one. There is an increase in NVH though, but I think it's worth it.

The front wishbone replaces the inner rubber bushing with a ball joint, and increases negative camber by up to -0.75 deg.

The rears are mostly the same as per the 1addicts thread except for the M3 guide rods, which I am very happy with: https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...9#post25811699

[ky0u]

Originally Posted by ozi

I was thinking about getting m3 front control arms too and I was wondering does they affect highway stability or driving straight? My route to work is just 40 miles highway and I wouldn't want to compromise either.

They help, especially with the tramlining tendency the non-m arms have

[_N54]

I got the same ones, but the 5 piece. Works great.

[mweisdorfer]

You may need to file off the inside of the subframe to get the lower, rear control arm to fit... FYI

[Piano_Black]

Will filing of the subframe have to be done with this E9x M3 Front Control Arm & Tension Strut Retrofit Set Part#PKE9XM3ARMS?

[ky0u]

Originally Posted by Piano_Black

Will filing of the subframe have to be done with this E9x M3 Front Control Arm & Tension Strut Retrofit Set Part#PKE9XM3ARMS?

With a genuine set, yes. A lot of the time, the solid m3 bushings are too large but just by a miniscule amount. When I did mine, I ended up shaving some of the bushing instead though. I figured if I fucked it up somehow, it's a lot cheaper replacing the bushing than a subframe

[3PedalJake]

Originally Posted by ky0u

With a genuine set, yes. A lot of the time, the solid m3 bushings are too large but just by a miniscule amount. When I did mine, I ended up shaving some of the bushing instead though. I figured if I fucked it up somehow, it's a lot cheaper replacing the bushing than a subframe

I had to use a file on mine, but not really to enlarge the subframe any, just laid it flat in there and dressed up all the ridges and burrs in the aluminum from the previous installation, that was enough for them to grudgingly slip in.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by Piano_Black

Will filing of the subframe have to be done with this E9x M3 Front Control Arm & Tension Strut Retrofit Set Part#PKE9XM3ARMS?

You don't have to shave an 1/8 of an inch or anything like that. Maybe a 1/32 of an inch. A good rule of thumb is the file until the indentations in the aluminum from the previous arms that circulate around the bolt hole are gone.

[Dovydas.B]

Guys, I am planning to do M3 arms (front&rear) next weekend, can some share exact torque values? Because I could not find clearly written ones, in some places there is a need for additional 90 degrees or even the torque depends on bolt grade level which I don't understand because as I can see there is only one option for OE bolts.

[mantis]

looking to also replace control arm, i will be getting the bolt replacement kit, but was wondering if i should be replacing these too

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...er-31102283579

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by Dovydas.B

Guys, I am planning to do M3 arms (front&rear) next weekend, can some share exact torque values? Because I could not find clearly written ones, in some places there is a need for additional 90 degrees or even the torque depends on bolt grade level which I don't understand because as I can see there is only one option for OE bolts.

I would get new bolts & nuts

Front

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...SABEgIZXvD_BwE


Rear

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...iABEgKTpvD_BwE

Torque for the front is 74# + 90 to the subframe & 122# to the hub

In the rear:

Upper Control Arm & Guide arm (traction strut)= 74# to the Subframe & 74# + 90 to the Hub

I know it sounds stupid to spend $100.00 on bolts & nuts, but if they are super old & rusty or have been tightened about 4-5 times or more, then they are no good 😌

[ozi]

Ok, i have the arms in transit. After install should I use alignment specs from M3, 335 or 335 with added camber ?

[Welcome to NBA Jam]

Originally Posted by ozi

Ok, i have the arms in transit. After install should I use alignment specs from M3, 335 or 335 with added camber ?

335 with added camber. Tell them you installed M3 control arms and not to worry about making the camber within spec. Just make sure they're at a good setting. If it's a good tech they'll know what to do. There's very little camber adjustment anyway.

[Steve Sas]

Aren't the rear M3 control arms stronger than the 335i ones?
And lighter as well??