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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > BMW E90/E92/E93 3-series General Forums > General E90 Sedan / E91 Wagon / E92 Coupe / E93 Cabrio > I'm No Master Tech but Grounding Point Junctions shouldn't look like this right??



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      12-08-2018, 05:57 PM   #1
Cisco335i
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Did I just find my electrical problem?? GCan't communicate with DSC or DME. If I unplug the DSC I can communicate to the DME...... this is the passenger side. I'm going to check driver side[IMG][/IMG]
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      12-08-2018, 08:30 PM   #2
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no photo.
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      12-08-2018, 10:33 PM   #3
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no photo.
Thank you
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      12-10-2018, 05:54 PM   #4
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still no photo.
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      12-11-2018, 10:48 PM   #5
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still no photo.
This thing is child proof I guess.
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      12-11-2018, 11:48 PM   #6
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Looks like something melted.
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      12-12-2018, 12:23 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cisco335i View Post
Did I just find my electrical problem?? GCan't communicate with DSC or DME. If I unplug the DSC I can communicate to the DME...... this is the passenger side. I'm going to check driver side[IMG][/IMG]
I don't think you necessarily "found your electrical problem" but you certainly found evidence of a former, if not "current" electrical problem.

That plastic cover took a LOT of heat from excessively high current draw, or perhaps more likely, from resistance to current flow at the chassis attachment, at some point.

If that was attached to the right wing, just outboard of the Coolant Reservoir as shown in the following "Installation Location", that is "X166" Ground Location as designated in TIS or Bentley:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...166/1VnXd8t4ZD

All the "Chassis-connected" Ground wires have Brown insulation. Here is the TIS circuit diagram for the X166 Ground Location. The BIG DRAW item at this location is the ground for the Radiator Fan (600W), and that wire is the largest gauge wire, having a cross-sectional area of 6.0mm squared (that's what the numbers from .5 to 6.0, appearing just above the wire color abbreviation represent):
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...6-x166/flWs6E7

Was the chassis connection for the spade terminals loose (high resistance)? I would want to figure out WHAT caused the heat that melted the plastic, get a new plastic cover, check ALL wires at the socket attachment for damage, and particularly check the component connection for any ground wire that appears to have carried excessive draw.

My SWAG from the extensive damage across the entire width of the spade connectors is that the Ground Location attachment to the chassis was loose/ corroded, causing excessive resistance and heat buildup in the spade plate, perhaps NOT due to excessive draw by any component such as the Fan, but simply due to excessive resistance.

Please let us know what you find,
George
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      12-12-2018, 12:49 AM   #8
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That's normal, the black stuff is to prevent splash water to reach the contacts so they dont oxidized
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      12-12-2018, 05:57 AM   #9
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Yup as "dirty" as it looks, that is normal. Now it looks like it was loose given there are a lot of deep circular marks around the mounting hole. Coincidentally, I had one of these loose last week in my car and cause a bunch of seemingly unrelated issues. So, might that have been the issue. Torque it down.
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      12-12-2018, 07:53 PM   #10
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agreed, I see no issues there.

the bus bar is clean and the connectors look fine.
maybe it was loose, or maybe someone previously torqued the snot out of it. put it back and it will be fine.
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      12-26-2018, 02:29 PM   #11
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Everything came out just fine. It was just a bit loose though. Went to tighten it with the torque wrench and...... broke the bolt in half...... it was actually while loosening it to wipe down the area actually so I know it wasn't due to over tightening it my self. I halve a feeling this little guy has been worked on a lot...... sheesh. How in the heck do I replace this......
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      12-28-2018, 08:34 AM   #12
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well with no tension on the threads the remnants of the bolt should spin out easily.

use a punch and drive it sideways and it should spin.
dremel a slot in it and use a flathead screwdriver.
left hand drill bit
extractor

generally in that order, from least destructive and easy to most destructive and hard.

if it won't come out the threads in the nut are prbably hosed. Drill it out, chase the threads with a tap.
if there's nothing left to chase, drill it out and tap it one size larger. You can sometimes get away with going to SAE bolts in ametric hole so you don't have to make such a large jump in diameter.

good luck.
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      12-28-2018, 03:08 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nsjames View Post
well with no tension on the threads the remnants of the bolt should spin out easily.

use a punch and drive it sideways and it should spin.
dremel a slot in it and use a flathead screwdriver.
left hand drill bit
extractor

generally in that order, from least destructive and easy to most destructive and hard.

if it won't come out the threads in the nut are prbably hosed. Drill it out, chase the threads with a tap.
if there's nothing left to chase, drill it out and tap it one size larger. You can sometimes get away with going to SAE bolts in ametric hole so you don't have to make such a large jump in diameter.

good luck.
Great Summary of how to deal with damaged fasteners. My SWAG would be that somewhere in vehicle history that "Bolt" was cross-threaded and it "ain't gonna" spin out easily (explaining why "comb" was loose, & why something broke in effort to tighten). If that is in fact the case, he'd best skip to your last Paragraph.

George
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