[SteveEvans]

Not much interest here it would seem... JBL MS-8 looks like old news and a non-starter. Alternatives like the Match PP82DSP look much better.

Steve

[ctuna]

JBLms-8 is old news not even produced anymore .
If you search the forum there are some big threads on it
as it was the thing when it came out especially if you don't
like to tune a dsp. Although the auto tune was also one if its
faults because you have to take what it gives you.
Helix dsp/amp products are much more flexible and have
decent amp power.

Best to start your own thread if want help.


Base System Upgrades
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=445266
http://www.monsteraudiodesign.co.uk/
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=634957
http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho....php?t=1003810
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=822366
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=581379
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=451941
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=540954
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ghlight=Dotech
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=495855
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=494299
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...morel-jbl.html
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ht=amp+upgrade
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=550771
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...1#post16679904
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...1#post16679904

[SteveEvans]

Originally Posted by SteveEvans

Not much interest here it would seem... JBL MS-8 looks like old news and a non-starter. Alternatives like the Match PP82DSP look much better.

Steve

MUCH better as I've picked up a boxed, unused one for £230.

Steve

[SteveEvans]

I simply cannot recommend the Match PP 82DSP highly enough. It sounds superb compared to running the speakers straight from the CIC. Can't wait for the speaker upgrade, but for now I'm pleased with the results.

It fits conveniently next to the combo box.



Custom wiring was my chosen route, in contravention of rule 1 of this thread which is "don't cut any wires"!

I recoded the CIC to hifi output changing just changing AUDIO_SYSTEM_CIC to "hifi" and leaving the FA alone. I then used a CAT7 cable to provide a high quality screened feed of the four balanced pairs to the amp. Below is this connected to the CIC's quad block connector before *cutting* the old wires as they're no longer needed. The screen is connected at the CIC end, but not at the amp end.



I've run 16AWG silver plated, PTFE insulated cable to the front door connectors so I can drive mids and tweeters actively without crossovers.



I'm using the original connector housings for the subs, but with 12AWG cable running to terminals 2 and 3. Perhaps a bit fat for the crimps, so these got soldered too.



Similar story for the rear speakers again using 16AWG, and then the whole lot run to the amp's molex connectors.



In reality I don't know how much better this will be than using the existing cabling as plug-n-play harnesses would do, but I enjoyed doing it, and I'm pretty sure it's worth the effort.

Steve

[Najt]

Originally Posted by ctuna

No the dsp goes between the amp and head unit
or idrive. In some cases the dsp and amp are combined in
one unit . If you do not understand this you need to do
a lot of homework on home and car audio before you make
a decision or choice on what to buy.

ouch.. I havent ever met DSP . I have no fckg idea what for is it... but as far I am looking, there are almost none 6er f13 with my wish option and bang and olufsen sound.. so I will have to upgrade the audio again anyway

Is the Match PP 82DSP also audio balanced? ( front/rear?)

[ctuna]

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...AouvCBZWJnvkyg

If you already have an amp you may want a stand alone DSP.

The point of a DSP is it allows you control to adjust things the way you
want to a very detailed level . So question about balance is you can adjust
it the way you want . But you can do that with just a amp but not as detailed a level.
Its a lot of work to tune a DSP so know what you are getting into
before you buy something.

If you have a home entertainment system with 5 or more channels
chances are that has DSP.

example system with jl amp and helix dsp
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=833581

[SteveEvans]

Originally Posted by Najt

Is the Match PP 82DSP also audio balanced? ( front/rear?)

Yes, it takes in four inputs front left/right and rear left/right and then you can mix these as you see fit to the outputs. My setup, shown below, drives the sub-woofers under the seats from a 50/50 mix of front rear, so if you fade front/rear they're not affected, but the signal to the mids/tweeters is, so fade/balance work exactly as you'd expect.



The rear channels drive the rear mids (so rear PDC appears where it should, behind you!), and the front channels driver the mids and tweeters in the doors independently and directly from the amp (with no crossover required).

The beauty of a DSP amp is that you can then setup delays so that the sound from all the speakers reaches the drivers ears in sync. That makes a HUGE difference to the accuracy of the stereo placement. Then, you can delay the rear speakers a few ms which makes them seem much further back, creating the effect of a subtle echo from behind you in a big room. The upshot of that is that you don't really notice the rear speakers at all (and they don't need to be very high quality because echoes aren't!) but they really help to fill out the sound and expand the sound stage. It's all about exploiting psychoacoustics.



And then you can set the frequency response and levels for each speaker, effectively implementing crossovers in the amp.

Sub-woofers:


Front-mids:


Front tweeters:


Rear:


Finally, the PC software allows you to connect a mic and then check the equalisation when playing pink noise.

I was seeing a noticeable dip in response just above the crossover frequency from sub-woofer to mids and was able minimise this by shifting the phase of the front mids by 11.25deg. Trying fixing that kind of problem without a DSP!

The end result is pretty close to the ideal curve. My mic doesn't work too well above about 14kHz it seems, but the tweeter response seems so flat I didn't worry too much about that. I was amazed to find that the tweeters needed to be attenuated by 12dB relative to the mids. I guess a normal crossover doesn't send much energy their way.



As the speakers break in I'm loving them more and more! So much detail that just wasn't there before.

I'll be replacing the subs, most likely with the Focal offerings, but for now I'm enjoying the vast improvement so far. It's fun having more enhancement still in the pipeline.

Steve

[Najt]

wauu !!! then this is much better than xd600/6 ... how much for the unit?

thanks

[SteveEvans]

Originally Posted by Najt

wauu !!! then this is much better than xd600/6 ... how much for the unit?

thanks

It comes in more that one guise; The original Audiotec-Fischer Match PP 82DSP, or the badge engineered "BimmerTech Premium Audio System".

The Match series of amps is intended to be plug-n-play, using the existing vehicle wiring as much as possible, but I custom wired it to get the most from it. Having the front sub-woofers, mids and tweeters all driven in parallel didn't sound optimal to me!

Typical price in the US is about $730. In the UK it's more like £500, but some people are trying it on and asking nearly £700! I was very fortunate and managed to pick one up, boxed and unused, 2nd hand for only £230.

Steve

[Najt]

ouch..superb.. as I can see..its made in Germany..

this seller is in Poysdorf, where I do pass every week I need this in my future 6er instead of regular hi-fi option

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MATCH-PP-8...kAAOSw9GhYYQ2Z

[ctuna]

I thought I read you already had a Jl 600/6 in which case you only
need th processor unless you want more channels.

[Najt]

I have xd600/6 in my e92 ... but it will probably go with the car after sell. In Summer I am planning 6er f13, and its really dificult to get it with B&O setup...

therefore I am gathering info forward...so audio upgrade wont miss me

[ctuna]

You should consider a Helix V8 then it has better dsp and 75 (I think) watts
per channel times 8 channel and two extra non amped channels for dsp for use
with what you like a sub maybe. check the specs at Helix.
Or a 6 dsp from helix with 110 per channel.
If you are planning on modifying then you want a car with Hi Fi as L7 does not
modify as easily due to the Fiber optic connection between the amp and head unit.

[SteveEvans]

I'm curious to know how much better Helix is than Match. I know that newer DSPs are 64 rather than 56 bits and support steeper crossovers, but I wonder how much difference that really makes. I believe they also support 96kHz sampling, but if the CIC output is 44/48kHz I can't see any advantage there. I'm not feeling that I need more power. One drawback of the 82DSP is that it only has 8 channels of DSP. The two RCA outputs are the same signal as amp channels G&H. If I wanted to add a sub (not planned) this would be an issue as I'm using all eight channels already.

Steve

[ctuna]

I think the power per channel is one of biggest differences however the newer dsp's are suppose to be better according to 6speed coupe who owns a shop was raving about the 6 dsp when it came out . He installs a lot of the Helix products. Also a choice of one of the better 3 way speaker sets goes hand in hand with this . The sweet spot for power on these is around 75 to 100 watts per channel.

It may be an ultimate system choice you are probably most of the way there
with the 82dsp but I drool over the specs the 6 dsp and v 8.

You don't really need to equalize a sub it only cover 0 to 75 hz.

[CAPNAwesome56]

Originally Posted by taibanl

Harnesses - are an absolute must for any well installed system, most are full Plug & Play and will allow 100% reversal to stock condition:
.

Where can I get a harness, or do I have to build my own? If I have to build one...does anyone have a tutorial?

[ctuna]

https://technicpnp.com/

[rabbitgtdguy]

Hi-Fi MOST Equipped 135i (2008), replacing head unit with an android unit for the convienence, gauges, etc. would like to intergrate factory audio/amp into the setup.

Issue is that audio is fed to the amp though the MOST optical connection on the OEM head unit itself. New unit of course does not have an optical port. I didn't get any errors.

That said, I have seen a few converters on the market...

https://avinusa.com/bmw-most-fiber-o...8-e83-e70.html


https://www.jandtdistributing.com/pr...iant=781354801

This supposedly takes the MOST signal and converts it so that RCAs can be used and allow retention of the OEM speakers/amp.

Any thoughts on this? Will either of these units work? The head unit has so many features itself so if I end up having no luck and have to just pull the entire system, wire in new speakers, etc...it'd still be worth it. However, is something like this will do the job. Would love for that to work out.

Looking for anyone that has had experience with this issue.

Joe

[ctuna]

It looks like the first converter is going in the wrong direction(most to analog so it doesn't help call them up to clairify) the second says for use with the dynavin N6 only .
If you went with an aftermarket amp or amp/processor in place
of the L7 amp you could still use some of the speakers.
You are faced with some difficult and costly decisions.
Do you gut the sound system for features on a cheap head unit?
If you do that you are going to have to rebuild the sound system.

[soulgod123]

tried to keep original stereo but wasn't unable to do that so decided to put pioneer aftermarket(deh-9600bt), no steering controls, no rear parking sensors(who needs that?).
i dont like audison bit ten, had to go -10db, -15 is perfect, but then i cant hear my speakers playing
fronts and rears from mosconi 120.4 to audison connected with rca splitter @150hz HPF +24db
undeseats @150hz LPF +24db
sub flat, focal amp subsonic on and @70-80ish hz, was thinking to get another rca cable and go straight from HU to sub amp, and leave audison sub out empty, as i mentioned audison is at -10db, because of that my 120.4 is set at max and sub amp as well i believe.
ordered mosconi 120.2 but arrived 130.2(newer version) ^^
cant set sub too loud as my rear panel starts moving, another thing last week my "Fuel Flap Mechanism" wont close because sub broke it.
it was base stereo

[RunFlatOut]

Originally Posted by soulgod123

...cant set sub too loud as my rear panel starts moving, another thing last week my "Fuel Flap Mechanism" wont close because sub broke it.
it was base stereo

Not gonna applaud because to be a bit harsh it does sound like someone retrofitted a little too much wtf, but good laugh

[hateahater]

Im having some trouble with the base stereo system and I'm hoping someone here can help me out. As state i have a E92 with base stereo system. Before i purchased the car the previous owner decided to do the alpine hifi retrofit. Now that i own this car I've realized adding more power will benefit me later down the road. So what i did was purchased a l7i from audio control along with a alpine mrv v500 amplifier. I removed the power and ground wires for the hifi alpine amp the previous owner installed. Using the signal pickup wires going to the alpine hifi amp i installed the lc7, also using the speakers wires from the hifi amp i hooked up the MRV V500 amplifier. Everything seems to work as it should, when i first finished my setup i realized i have a low buzzing sound even when my volume is at 0 and the engine is off. I didn't consider that to be a big issue, and in the meantime I've ran into this bigger issue. When i disconnect the lc7 from the amp(unplugging rcas) It should completely stop the signal from the amp. That being said even after unplugging the rcas i can put my ear to the tweeters and with my actual volume at max i can still hear my music very quietly coming from my tweeter along with the low buzzing noise. Can someone here find me some help please?