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      01-03-2020, 03:25 PM   #1
activereality
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2008 335i E92 Dynavin N7 Pro Install

Ok Everyone Here it is!!...... I hope!
(embedded pics for fun, linked pics for info)
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### If you read this. It is a historical document. Not a guide. You do something stupid, you'll get that prize all on your own ####
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Besides: I could teach it to you, but I can't understand it for you.

This was my install of the Dynavin N7-Pro into a 2008 335i E92 N54. Long Post, but I am hoping someone can swing through and either enjoy the story or maybe find something useful!

I recently got the 335i (end of 2019). It is great and I am really digging it (my first, fast(for me) car!!). The handling is amazing, the power is show-stopping, and the ride quality is second to none! The only thing this thing lacked was a more up to date entertainment/navigation system.
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The requirements:
Bluetooth
Nav (either built-in or from phone)
ability to connect a back-up Camera
Maybe Sirius-X/M radio (unless it cost more than base unit)
and Carplay (new to me as of researching this project)
MOST Importantly: I did not want a big blank bezel around a sexy touch screen. If at all possible, I wanted it to look stock!

I looked around and saw a few different options. However, I saw, time and again, that some companies had a nice product that many would report as being quality and worth it, but these companies had no US-based representatives. In the few instances, I have seen a posted/reported issue take days or weeks to get contact, answers or resolutions.
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With this in mind, I went the Dynavin route. Feature-wise, it had everything I was looking for and more. Technical wise, the technology is new enough I feel like it will last a few years before needing an update. The weighing factor in this decision was that Dynavin has US-based reps and an amazing distribution company in J&T! This gave a 'Local' based contact - that I found was immeasurably appreciated and allowed for a faster install, a more streamlined button-up, and a better overall understanding than I started with.

Now to the Fun Bits!!
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### Finished Product!! Figured I would give you some sexy bits first!

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MGV...ew?usp=sharing

The package was received in good condition: thank you, shipping gods, for protecting my infotainment investment!

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1_r...t713M-NEVTWEsB

Unpacking it was fun. The packaging was very well prepared and executed. It was nice and cozy, without the cheap peanuts of yesteryear.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Ll...Orhfsp5X0mVIkO

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1o6...fKcth_x3Cv-LB3

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Ew...Y7tQYI6m1l0GW7

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Wl...7H7UUwPO7ZRE0t

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1WU...dnEMLmxVou2fIc

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1w8...z7Td-NCgqZsNcH

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1hf...Lu5YbJ4ZR7GsL_

The Unit came mounted into the new bracket from Dynavin, reducing material prep. It also came with a relocation bracket for vehicles with the extra buttons below the AC Controls. My vehicle did not have those. But I may see if i can find one of these button sets, and maybe wire in some auxiliary circuits later on (who doesn't like to play right!?)

With it all unpacked, I found that the provided harnesses were pretty much plug and play! It was very intuitive and easy enough for me not to mess it up haha!

Now, with the unit pretty much connected and ready to go, I just needed a gaping hole to put it in !

So to the 335 I go!

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I started with some towels over the shifter and center console area. I threw it in neutral and put on the E-Brake to keep from going anywhere. I also used the parking place stop for the rear tires and a 35 lb weight for a front tire to make sure it didn't roll anywhere.

The dash dismantle process is well documented. I have the pics here, but you can easily find the sizes/tools needed with a basic set or looking online. The AC Controls cliped right into the Dynavin mount and I was able to trim the edges just like the pics provided by them.

I did find a cheap $20 set of trim pry-bars to be invaluable in this!

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Qb...d9ebbByOAhBK80

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1tY...pvAkbfC8f8ucvp

https://drive.google.com/open?id=14O...aQVEfzOFDGp3w8

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Hh...rJdeQnk4BGA1qY

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1H1...n0i7kUWAkGfjIb

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1i1...z7YUEVhvXmy6I_

https://drive.google.com/open?id=13M...NaPeiKWYMy9rLE

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1eO...ug0VR3Rfa_W620

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1U9...cevK5rhNPI-Fk_

Unfortunately, no real good pics of the unit halfway out and connected. Suffice it to say, that if you had the 'Square hole and Round Peg' game as a kid - just re-live that for 5 minutes.

The only caveat to this was the audio connections. Since I have the Logic 7 system, ny PDC is from my rear speakers only, but my nav, phone is from the fronts. So.. I got a couple of 1 Female to 2 Male RCA Splitters and just hooked those up! I did 'cross' so that each channel/side was getting a front and rear of that side. All works well with this setup and sound comes through perfectly fine! - Big thank to Jeff on this, as I did not know the Electrical or Sound system nearly as well as he, and he was able to give some great input and troubleshooting advice for this -

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Pic for fun

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1pL...cIDD1l7Fco92da

Ran the 12 VDC Constant to the Fuse Box behind the Glove Box

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1iW...oempg54af1syaE

Used a fuse tap and found one of the comfort access fuses to piggy-back off of

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1X6...z6LRjnMcnBMm3Z

It is important to note: This is where I did a quick op check of the Dynavin and all ancillary components. Played music, made sure nav had gps, used the mic and made a call, connected carplay, etc. Better to test now and have a DOA (dead on arrival) component - which happens and sucks, but is nothing in the scheme of things. I also connected the backup camera and tested it- but more on that in a minute.

For the Mic - I ran the wire under the driver dash, to the a-pillar cover, over headliner, and next to Rearview mirror

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Qi...hZ-GbL_GEWFvFA

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1SQ...QXTUfgV60Tafvw

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1LG...Hmmu7cRg-bOfjA

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ZE...qRyfyOwObTcZvs

Can you see it?

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1r5...3NF2DUjzBMxR8P

https://drive.google.com/open?id=18J...1o59-ff-yXT1hv

For the GPS Antenna, I mirrored this to the passenger side. I stuck it to the frame in front of the airbag. (no pics).

After this, the unit is basically installed and just needed to be shoved into the dash and the screws installed. This process took about 2 hours and required maybe 3-4 different tools (prybar, torx bit, phillips, couple cuss words it went smooth- I ain't gonna be lulled into complacency damnit!)

BUT WAIT, There's more!!

Now I installed a Back up Camera!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and a relay

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For this install, I had to remove a few more panels to get the wiring back there!

https://drive.google.com/open?id=15H..._datkRetcBh3OZ

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Ov...kcxJ1pjtYeYHda

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1NJ...bvrobAYCkXN52s

This got me to the trunk. I don't have the pics for that yet but a quick description:

Remove interior panel by removing the cover on the trunk bottom lip, then a few pop rivets and tie off point behind passenger seat. Also, i have the pass-through folding seats, made this pretty convenient. For the Camera circuit.

I connected the Relay to the passenger back up light for the remote/switch to the relay. 12 vdc constant ran to the relay from Battery. Connected the Normally Open (NO) contact to the Camera hot and both relay and camera to ground.

This is important - the N7 Pro does not need to connect the 12 vdc power from the back of the unit to the BackUP camera. This power is for a separate camera-input I believe.

Dynavin has a couple of wiring harness pictures with the wiring requirements. Don't do like I did, I chased rabbits in my wiring cause i had connected the 12 VDC hot and Back-Up trigger, to the camera. This does not need to be done on MY car. Yours may be different and I cannot speak to that, so when the time comes, may your journey end the way you want it to.

After this, Set the N7 Pro Settings to 'After Market Camera Enabled'- This is the new firmware as of the beginning of the year. The N7 now auto-detects the PDC, from the MOST connection, and the Camera. It used to require selecting the desired settings. No more of that!! haha.

Now, I just buttoned it all up and put on a custom image for the load screen and now I am set!!

The N7 has some preset EQ's which is nice but can also customize that as well. Volumes on all input types are adjustable and selectable.

Overall, I could not be happier!!

Thanks, Jeff and J&T Crew and Dynavin!

I will be posting some more at a later date. I will be getting a 'vehicle-mounted' USB Connection for the Carplay connection. This will be mounted (most likely ) in the arm-rest. More to come! It never ends!!

Thank you all for reading!

TLR

Shit was good. Made electrical mayhem. Then listened to cool tunes and saw behind me!

Last edited by activereality; 01-17-2020 at 10:18 PM.. Reason: Putting all info into first post
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      01-03-2020, 06:04 PM   #2
ctuna
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mdecoder.com for your vin to list options.
Hi fi is option 676 , top hi fi = logic 7 is 677 or 688
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      01-03-2020, 10:30 PM   #3
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I plan on running a fuse tap for the constant power, vice running the wires to the battery. I will not be installing a camera yet, I'll grab one at a later date to run those wires as needed.

Finding an open fuse socket that delivers power 24/7/365 will be a PITA. 99% of us just run the power wire back to the battery with a fuse in line right before the battery. It's not all that difficult to pull up the trim around the door, if you have a trim tool(s).

I have the N7. 6 months later the N7 pro came out 🤬.

I think at some point, I'll be in the market for a head unit that has wireless Apple Play & HD Radio.

I like the N7, don't get me wrong. But..........
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      01-03-2020, 10:34 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctuna View Post
mdecoder.com for your vin to list options.
Hi fi is option 676 , top hi fi = logic 7 is 677 or 688
Haha thanks!

Hmm. Per the VIN look up I got to work (a couple were pretty buggy) I have 677A - it labeled as HiFi system Professional DSP

Iíll try that mdeconder.com out though.

No Branding or anything on the interior. So this helps a lot. Glad I got the MOST adapter as it found like Iíll need it . Although I can say the sound quality is very good, unless using the aux adapter- can be pretty poor.

Looking forward to this and canít wait to start using the new functionality. And then see what I can break into next!!
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      01-04-2020, 12:37 AM   #5
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677 is defiantly logic 7 = top hi fi so you will need the adapter.
The aux input is a known bottleneck for quality sound in any of these BMW systems.
USB and bluetooth will sound better through the new head unit.
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      01-04-2020, 08:36 AM   #6
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I took the OEM usb/ aux housing out of the center console & retrofitted, with some tinkering, a double sided USB-3 fitting into the plastic housing where the BMW USB fitting was. Then ran a USB-3 cable to the N7. I now just plug in my iPhone via lighting cable, which is direct to the N7.

The BMW USB fitting has a different end, on the bottom. So, you can't just hook up a USB cable to it & run it underneath the center console to the N7.
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      01-04-2020, 08:32 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
I plan on running a fuse tap for the constant power, vice running the wires to the battery. I will not be installing a camera yet, I'll grab one at a later date to run those wires as needed.

Finding an open fuse socket that delivers power 24/7/365 will be a PITA. 99% of us just run the power wire back to the battery with a fuse in line right before the battery. It's not all that difficult to pull up the trim around the door, if you have a trim tool(s).

I have the N7. 6 months later the N7 pro came out 🤬.

I think at some point, I'll be in the market for a head unit that has wireless Apple Play & HD Radio.

I like the N7, don't get me wrong. But..........

Hey! These are great ideas! I have fuse taps already and will be trying to pull the constant from the fuse panel (behind glove box- are their others in these rigs? Iíve seen >3-4 in some cars). The exact one... well we shall see about that haha.

I was originally gonna wait on the back up camera, but, at the moment, rethinking that. Looking at one that replaces the factory trunk handle. If I do go this route now (or later for that matter) Iíll run a relay at the trunk to power the camera, just tap into the rear back up lights as the trigger/remote. Question here, I donít like to run things straight to a battery if it can be avoided. Are there other places in the trunk area to Ďcleanlyí pick up the power for the relay? Thinking a bit further, if the N7 Pro has a back up remote wire, then I can run it from that... I think. So all the above might be mute haha.

Yeah, the wireless CarPlay of some of the Ďother head units out thereí is attractive. However, at 300-500 for those kinds of units (without buying the cheapest chinesium HU) and _then_ get the required Ďextrasí to get the dash to look decent, use vehicle based controls, and then hopefully not have to code half the logic in the ECU to get everything to work right. All of this made me rethink the wireless as a requirement. And odds are there will be a future adapter (that works well over BT- if there isnít already haha) to cast CarPlay to the HU.

I like the idea of running a USB port to the center console (under arm rest). You mention using a usb 3.0. Does the N7 support this? Or is it just a backwards compatibility thing? Iíll need to check the specs of the N7 and see how many USB ports there are. I was thinking of maybe running the usb extension provided in the kit to the cigarette tray- maybe replacing the lighter port there.

Iíll check into finding something that might fit into the center console. Would rather a module that would replace the factory usb plate than to modify that plate.
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      01-04-2020, 08:57 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctuna View Post
677 is defiantly logic 7 = top hi fi so you will need the adapter.
The aux input is a known bottleneck for quality sound in any of these BMW systems.
USB and bluetooth will sound better through the new head unit.
Awesome! Thank you for the help in figuring that out. Getting even more excited!!
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      01-05-2020, 10:46 PM   #9
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Love how well these blend in to the interior.
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      01-06-2020, 12:42 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by dan4081 View Post
Love how well these blend into the interior.
That was one of the main factors in selecting this. I did not want a huge wasted space for the bezel to just be blank around the unit. This unit makes it look totally stock.

Another huge factor is the plug and play of the components provided. This cuts a lot of research and 'oh crap I needed _that_ too?!'

I am really looking forward to having 2018 (2020 if you count updates hehe ) tech in my 2008 haha!

I already ordered up a trunk handle camera and a couple of relays and noise filters as well. Once the N7 unit is roughly installed (electrically connected to everything) I'll test it and the camera the complete the install.

Hoping to get most of this done in a day. I might have to complete the install of the HU and then finish up the camera install later (I'll just run the camera wires to the HU and then can go the other direction with them - hopefully).

The unit should arrive later this week - so looking forward to a Saturday install
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      01-07-2020, 09:07 AM   #11
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OK, guys. Parts are mostly ordered!

But looking for a few tips here. The Dynavin N7 Pro has 2 USB 2.0 ports on the back. It comes with one cable (unknown if it has a mount to it or what). Thinking of seeing about replacing the stock USB/Aux ports in the armrest and add another USB 3.0 port someplace else in the vehicle. This would be an ease of use for carplay or maybe connecting to the unit with a computer or something (i often like to see how much I can get into something haha)

This is my thinking so far:
replace the existing USB/Aux with some sort of USB 3.0/Aux (just to maintain the ability to use in case it ever comes up) and wire that the N7
then add a USB 3.0 port leading into the glove box or something... (what are others doing - I might have searched wrong, but could only find a couple of threads where this was mentioned for any new HU install- it is a small detail so easily understood)
or
Run one USB 3.0 to the armrest -replacing the current USB/Aux connection and the run a USB 3.0/ Aux to the Cigarette port location (just pull that out/hide under the panel and install a round version).

I know this is mostly ' desire' or 'preference' but also want to hear the creativity of the community.

Also, does anyone know a housing that I might be able to find to replace that existing USB/aux housing in the armrest- which I would try and install the new port/s into?

Oh and yes, using USB 3.o, just in case of future compatibility/replacement so don't need to upgrade again haha
Hell, I've even thought a little about adding a USB Type C connection in there, in case I go back to android.

Trying to add some pictures of example products here(idk how to make them a bit smaller- without editing the image - right now haha):
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....AC_SL1001_.jpg
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....AC_SL1001_.jpg
Attached Images
  
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      01-08-2020, 03:45 PM   #12
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The above suggestions are all good, looks like you have a plan. Email us or call if you need anything,
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DYNAVIN INFO: CLICK HERE......LIKE US ON FACEBOOK......Forum members enter discount code "E90POST" at checkout!
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      01-08-2020, 03:56 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffb335 View Post
The above suggestions are all good, looks like you have a plan. Email us or call if you need anything,
Thanks Jeff!

Hopefully, all goes smoothly! I might hold off on the Port installs - gonna see if I can find a cheap factory housing and install the ports in that, to make it look as stock as possible. So much work was put into the rest of this kit, I want to do it justice with any tweaks I give it haha. I _might_ use my existing housing, but order a factory replacement, in case I ever want to return to stock.

Thank you and Brittany again for all the help so far! Looking forward to this setup and how usable it will be- compared to the dated electronics currently installed.
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      01-08-2020, 03:59 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
I took the OEM usb/ aux housing out of the center console & retrofitted, with some tinkering, a double sided USB-3 fitting into the plastic housing where the BMW USB fitting was. Then ran a USB-3 cable to the N7. I now just plug in my iPhone via lighting cable, which is direct to the N7.

The BMW USB fitting has a different end, on the bottom. So, you can't just hook up a USB cable to it & run it underneath the center console to the N7.
Do you happen to have a picture of how that turned out? Interested in this design.

However, I might go with the USB 3.0 and AUX retrofit in the armrest and then the other USB connection elsewhere - Just saw a thread where someone installed the USB connection in the back of the small tray in the center console, behind the shifter, where the IDRIVE Controller would go.

Thanks!!
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      01-08-2020, 05:45 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by activereality View Post
Thanks Jeff!

Hopefully, all goes smoothly! I might hold off on the Port installs - gonna see if I can find a cheap factory housing and install the ports in that, to make it look as stock as possible. So much work was put into the rest of this kit, I want to do it justice with any tweaks I give it haha. I _might_ use my existing housing, but order a factory replacement, in case I ever want to return to stock.

Thank you and Brittany again for all the help so far! Looking forward to this setup and how usable it will be- compared to the dated electronics currently installed.
There is a "blank" version of the plug panel that is in the armrest, I dont have a part number but if you can figure it out it would make a nice starting point for putting those flush mount plugs in.
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      01-08-2020, 05:46 PM   #16
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This post has been super helpful with the issues I'm running into. Definitely following it. Thanks for the help earlier today too!
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      01-08-2020, 09:25 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffb335 View Post
There is a "blank" version of the plug panel that is in the armrest, I dont have a part number but if you can figure it out it would make a nice starting point for putting those flush mount plugs in.
Now that I know it exists- I am off to find it!! Thanks Jeff!
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      01-08-2020, 09:27 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kazbek1 View Post
This post has been super helpful with the issues I'm running into. Definitely following it. Thanks for the help earlier today too!

You are more than welcome! Just here to try and have some fun and if the community can grow a bit in the process, then great!

There seems to be a great wealth of knowledge on here. In other writeups, tutorials, and random problem threads!

Glad something of this thread will turn out to be helpful!

Looking forward to this build! Also, good luck with your build and keep us up to date!
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      01-09-2020, 10:48 PM   #19
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Alright, got some minor planning done, for the Back-Up camera portion of the install. I have probably over-complicated this, so correct me if I am going overboard haha.

I have ordered and plotted out a camera circuit with the camera, a passive noise filter, and a relay. (attached a quick schematic below). The goal here is to hopefully reduce any possible noise. Since this is a fairly cheap camera (i honestly couldn't really find 'quality' ones without paying OEM pricing, and then still have to splice wires) I want to keep the noise/interference to a minimum.

The plan:
12 VDC from Battery to relay (blue)
Relay Remote/Signal connected to Back up light (White)
Relay black - Ground
Relay Yellow - Filter Blue
Filter Black - Ground
Filter Red - Camera Extension (red)
Camera Extension Black - Ground
Camera Extension - To Camera Plug
Camera Extension - to front of Vehicle *
Camera Extension (at front) Video - to HU Video
Camera Extension (At front) red - HU backup wire - if any (IDK if the N7 has this or not)

The Process planned for now (until I get hit in the face):
Get the N7 Plugged up (basically full install minus button it all back up - post-op check of all N7 functions) and then do a rough install (electrical connections only - no running of wires) of the camera, and ensure that:
A - it freaking works
B - no crazy interference

When looking up info, I saw some conflicting accounts of people having bad signal (lots of noise/interference). This is why the Relay and the Noise Filter. If (in your experiences) this is overkill- awesome, I'll just go with the relay. If not, well, then I have everything I need.

The routing of the wiring is what I feel will take the longest - for the GPS Antennae, the Mic, and the Camera taking the finish. Doing it this way, in case something goes long/wrong and I don't have time to complete the install - I can break at the camera, after completing everything else. I have read/heard that it is not that bad, but I want to make sure to hide the wires pretty well, as I don't want them being an eyesore. So I'll try and take my time.

Also, looked around for blanking plates for the center armrest, it seems all of them are a single layer plastic with small nubs to retain them in place. I think I would rather use a factory USB/AUX port, and try and modify that to hold the USB 3.0 and new Aux. This is to maintain the integrity of the plate, so the plugs stay in place - so if a plug gets pushed in a bit harder than normal (thinking of stuff stacked on top on accident), it doesn't wear the nubs down and no longer stay in place. I might end up looking at my existing panel and then modify it and just order a new one later on if I need to go back to the factory - no CPO so don't see that being a requirement.

Let me know what I am missing or overlooking. Or, just remind me to DC the battery before starting haha!
Attached Images
File Type: pdf Back Up Camera Circuit.pdf (18.5 KB, 11 views)
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      01-11-2020, 05:18 PM   #20
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Alright Guys!!

Got it all in!! Will post some pictures later tonight!

Install went very smoothly, and if I had not wanted to install a backup camera, it would have taken maybe 2 hours total (almost an hour of that was just playing with routing for the mic and GPS Antennae). The rest of the time was spent taking the panels off to get to the trunk and taking the trunk passenger side cover off. It all went pretty well and i am super happy with the results!

Thanks Jeff and Crew! I can already tell this will be awesome!

The final product, I got sound!, I got maps!!, I got Carplay (yeah yeah, it was one cable connection, but 'eff-it' I'll take it where I can get it!)!!!!... Pretty much everything seems to work without issues and the N7 Pro interface is pretty nice so far, very responsive and fast on selections! .. Actually have not made a call yet, so do not know what the call quality is like. Should I use a screen protector?

Now we have come to the point where I talk about what is not working..... Well, everything is, bbutttttt... (and we begin):

I am getting the SOS error, so that will have to be coded. Not a biggie and was expected to begin with.

When I put the car in reverse, the PDC activates on the right-hand side of the screen, it beeps once (kinda like an activation peep) and that is the only sound. Although the PDC does seem to be working- as the display does show the zones, and will show items entering the zones as you back up, or a person walks into that 'zone'. However, I got no camera!!

The left side of the screen appears to go to a forward PDC view (it kind of zooms in a little on the front bumper area of the vehicle). However, I do not have front PDC (although that might be a future retrofit as it does not seem terribly difficult- but will come after some coding has been done - no coding tools yet though) But I think I know why just looking for confirmation here.


Jeff, this section might be most easily answered by you, but also anyone else that has suggestions or questions let me know.

(to start here I did not follow my own schematic and altered my wiring as follows)

The camera is wired to the 12 VDC out and the 'video in' from the back of the head-unit (HU). The wiring is run to the back of the vehicle to the trunk, where the Camera 'hot' (red wire) is connected to the 12 VDC wire from the HU, and also connected to a ground in the trunk. I know the camera works, cause I can select the camera screen via the HU and see behind (the camera actually has a pretty good 'position of view' as well) and it is very clear (even without the filter). Actually pretty suprised, as the camera was pretty cheap - it also mounts nice and tightly, so all is good!

So, what I am thinking is: the 12 VDC from the HU does not send voltage when in reverse. I know the HU senses we are in reverse as the PDC screen comes up. So, in this instance, in order to have the functionality to view the camera from the HU menus and to activate the camera when in reverse, I'll go back and rob some stuph from my original diagram:

at the connection for the 12 VDC in the trunk - I'll splice the 12 VDC from the HU and a 12 VDC wire from pin 87 on a Relay. I would think, this should be fine - as both circuits won't be active at the same time.
Then have the relay spliced into to the back-up light circuit and ground in the trunk.
This would give the camera power from the HU when that menu is selected and give the camera power when in reverse - from the relay, after the backup light is powered.

Question here: will this alright?
scenario:
car is in reverse
reverse light is on
relay is triggered
relay sends 12 vdc to splice for the camera positive. However, this will also be sending voltage to the HU, as they are spliced directly together.
Will it be alright that there is 12 VDC is 'going to' the HU when in reverse in this scenario? As the voltage will be 'sitting' a the HU (assuming there is an internal switch that will be open at that point), and then the camera will be receiving voltage from the relay as well.

Making sure that having these connected will not cause any problems. If so, what are some other alternatives people have used to wire in the camera for use in reverse and then 'selecting' the camera from HU menus? If this is not possible, I'll remove the 12 VDC from the back of the HU and just not have the ability to see the camera when not in reverse? Or maybe run to another relay (so there is an open circuit between any non used voltage sources when the 'other' source is selected)?

Thanks guys!

Over the next few days, I'll post some pics of the install. I didn't get everything, so might need to simulate a few. Also, I'll be looking to expand on this install - to give myself access to USB for Carplay in the center console. These parts haven't arrived yet, so that's on hold, until then, I just have the carplay connected USB Port hanging from driver side footwell.

Thanks again, everyone!
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      01-12-2020, 05:05 PM   #21
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Well, played with it some today. And down to 1 of two conclusions:
1. The N7 Pro does not show back up camera while in reverse - PDC screen only
2. Firmware update of some sort required?

Reason:
1. Wired in a relay to power the Camera while in reverse, Camera getting voltage, no camera unless it is selected from the HU Still.
This is the same voltage level +/- 0.5 VDC.

Owners manual _does_ speak to a 'Reverse' settings menu - which is not currently on my Dynavin HU. This seems odd, as I have rear PDC, but it does show front PDC as well(on-screen while in reverse). The manual options are: 'None", 'ODC', 'Camera', 'PDC + Camera'. ( I am obviously looking for the 'PDC + Camera' to be active haha. I find it odd that it is showing the front PDC zone as well, as my vehicle is (or is vehicle VIN decoders) factory coded to S507 (which should be PDC Rear).

I am wondering if this unit only works with Factory Back-Up camera and that it is coded into the vehicle? If so, why have the hot to the camera as an option and not allow its use for other functions that the unit actually receives?
Or
Possibly need to recode something in the vehicle so the Dynavin sees the PDC system differently and allows this 'Reverse' Settings screen to be accessible? If that is done, wonder what other modules/items would need to be added to the e92 to make it work well enough that the Dynavin can see it?

The N7 does see the Vehicle Diagnostics and Climate control variables. So I know it is not a faulty connection. I think I might check the versions and see what disparity I have there. I just received the unit, so I would think it would be up to date from the factory (since it does not seem like they are updating them every week), but that is not a guaranty.


Overall, I am still loving the unit. This is really the only thing that has not gone perfectly smooth so far, which is not a biggie. I am hoping though, that the solution to my issue to have to add a bunch of BMW Equipment, so I can code rear camera, and then the Dynavin will 'see' it. Not exactly what I was wanting. But it might be a reality. If maybe the E92 needs to be coded for the camera - and not having all the associated equipment installed - then the N7 "See's" it, that wouldn't be too bad.
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      01-13-2020, 02:54 PM   #22
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Quick Update: Spoke to Jeff with J&T (an awesome group of peeps over there!). We have some small testing to try - remove the 12 VDC coming from the HU to the Camera: This circuit is to just power a camera at all times (like for a trailer camera or something). this might also be an issue with my firmware, but one thing at a time.

Will post more updates as available .

Even with this, the unit is working awesomely! I set up some audio settings for the Logic 7 i found on another thread (https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=161120). The Dynavin had some different EQ Levels, so I have not touched them yet, but I did adust some fader settings and bass. More to come on that, but music quality is definitely not diminished and is probably better now.

I couldn't be happier with it and looking forward to getting used to the UI and where all the functions are. The carplay seems to be amazing as well. So far have not really seen any crazy bugs or feel like there is anything not working - excepting the camera stuff. But that is a small fry with making sure I have a useable vehicle with working music, nav, Bluetooth, and carplay!

Thanks all!
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