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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > DIY: Front door lock actuator replacement (E90)



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      08-19-2019, 06:19 PM   #155
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Passenger not opening

Appreciate the discussion. This all assumes you can open the door. Replacing the actuator real PITA, but compared to valve cover change a cake walk.

Already changed actuators and window regulators on back doors. Case now is passenger door will not open. At all stop. Not sure how to attack.
.
1. All fuses associated with door lock good. Already upgraded to 20A.
2. Key fob and central door lock/unlock activates all doors less passenger door.. Passenger door will not unlock to open.
3. Double pull on inside door handle does not open door. Door handle still has spring to it so assume still connected to actuator. When I pull the interior door handle can "hear" motion in the actuator area so assume the cable to the actuator remains connected.
4. Pulled the lock button on the upper part of the door while also activating the central locking button on dash. Can feel motion on the bar going down from the button to the actuator but no friction/hold to pull up to unlock.

What can I do to set the door unlocked/open. New actuator in hand and read to install. Just need to get the door open.

Thanks for any assistance

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      08-20-2019, 03:09 PM   #156
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Thanks to OP and those who updated -- this helped. I have a Bentley manual but the visuals on here helped to know what to look for a bit. Wish I had taken a few more of my own to help out as well.

Things to also consider: The state of the lock when you plug in the wire harness back to the new actuator will affect how it reacts. I was doing testing without it plugged in and plugged it in arbitrarily. Seems it was unlocked when others were so I was getting a rapid three locking action from the actuator. Also, if at first it seems its not working, try and throw the key in the ignition and then connect the wire harness. Worked for me.

Having the window only 4" up (from lower sill) aligned the bottom hole for me and I pushed a screwdriver in to release the glass from the regulator holder. You can do this one at a time; there is no way for the glass to fall and break if you do it properly since it will fall into the holder again. If you're nervous about the metal screwdriver potentially touching the glass or you're slighting higher than 4" (so you have to push up to get to the hole in the glass through the regulator bar oval) then get some fabric tape and put it around it. You will need something solid though, so it's not like you could substitute a pencil or anything -- but maybe a strong pen...dunno.

Some people reported success in having the window up. I've seen this done, and they are probably right -- as long as the regulator bar near the lock can be unscrewed and then pushed back to make enough clearance for the regulator to come out, you're good. Getting the new regulator back in will be surprisingly easier than taking it out. I have a 2011 E90 328i and I had a hard foam block that was impossible to get out in the bottom corner under the regulator -- you just have to work around it.

After removing it from the handle, keep the key tumbler out of the equation till you see the actuator functioning correctly. Then use your key and turn it to make sure it operates. When you've verified that it turns (you may have to pull part of the post) then its ready to go back in. Remember, AFTER you've verified that the actuator is functioning. It helps to eliminate issues (though technically it should never be an issue). It pushes right back into place if you've screwed the actuator in correctly.

Pre-tap your holes your new actuator torx screw holes. Just take one of the three Torx screws that you took off for the old actuator and use it to tap the holes on new actuator BEFORE you put it back in. It just makes it easier so you're not trying to maneuver the actuator and hold it firm while you tap in the door. Also means you can hand thread one or two to position slowly and surely.

Oh and to confirm: yes, the replacement door lock is about twice as quiet as the original actuator. You'll question if you have everything right because it doesn't have that familiar "thump!" but rather a quiet up and down.

Last edited by bluewater328; 08-21-2019 at 03:50 PM..
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      09-09-2019, 11:21 PM   #157
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cut it out

2007 335i driver door lock closed the night before kid was taking it back to school. Tried both inner and outer levers on the actuator with no luck.

From the opening where the electrical connection is showing through the inside of the door went at it with a metal cutting blade on an oscillating tool. Kept cutting into the guts of it until the housing of the actuator fell away. Then fiddled with the lock mechanism until the lock released.

still not quite sure what went wrong inside the actuator, but it seemed like the plastic parts in the lock weren't tripping things the way they should when i moved them.

Lock mechanism is first, then the cut up housing.
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      09-09-2019, 11:26 PM   #158
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You will still have to do all the other parts of the process to disconnect the key lock, wiring and mechanicals inside the door. we had to unbolt the window glass regulator to get enough space to get the actuator back in.
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      09-18-2019, 05:24 PM   #159
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Thanks everyone. My passenger actuator had a broken white plastic cam. I could see the worm screw spinning against this to try to unlock the door and failing. After much poking with a screwdriver, I finally opened the door.

To unclip the window, I used both hands and a screwdriver to pry on the clip, being careful not to grind on the glass. My assistant then pulled up on the glass.

I'd rate this 2 spanners out of 5, 1 if the door can be opened first!
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      11-02-2019, 07:11 PM   #160
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Hi. I replaced the driver's side front door actuator but my lock only works when unlocking. It wont lock or pin doesn't slide down automatically. Checked all fuses and they are good. Not sure what else I can do. Has anyone experienced the samething and can shed sone light as to what else I can try? Thanks
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      12-17-2019, 03:13 PM   #161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luckyJ View Post
Hi. I replaced the driver's side front door actuator but my lock only works when unlocking. It wont lock or pin doesn't slide down automatically. Checked all fuses and they are good. Not sure what else I can do. Has anyone experienced the samething and can shed sone light as to what else I can try? Thanks
Go back in and redo your work. Yes, it's a PITA.
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      12-17-2019, 03:17 PM   #162
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Replaced the driver side front door actuator on my 06 (E90) 325i.

Followed most of the instructions, but did not disconnect the batter nor remove the window. I did remove the nuts on the support for the window for extra room.

I also used a dremel on the lower right opening and expanded it approximately 1/4" - which gave me enough room to slide in/out the actuator with relative ease.

I did have to redo the process as I did not securely clip in the the pull wire that connects to the back of the actuator. Fortunately I knew the process and no new swear words were used as the old standbys worked well.
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      12-17-2019, 05:19 PM   #163
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greenohawk69 View Post
Replaced the driver side front door actuator on my 06 (E90) 325i.

Followed most of the instructions, but did not disconnect the batter nor remove the window. I did remove the nuts on the support for the window for extra room.

I also used a dremel on the lower right opening and expanded it approximately 1/4" - which gave me enough room to slide in/out the actuator with relative ease.

I did have to redo the process as I did not securely clip in the the pull wire that connects to the back of the actuator. Fortunately I knew the process and no new swear words were used as the old standbys worked well.
Make sure you plug in the molex to the actuator when all door locks are in the same state (all closed or all open). Sometimes the system gets confused if they aren't. See my post above.

Last edited by bluewater328; 12-17-2019 at 05:26 PM..
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      12-31-2019, 03:48 AM   #164
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My passenger side door has been stuck closed for months. I followed this thread to open up the panel while the door remained closed. After the foam was removed (followed by an hour of hopelessness), I was able to pop open the door by turning clockwise the orange gear behind the lock button attachment. I used a flat-head screwdriver to turn the gear with a little bit of force, and after about a 1/8 to 1/4 cycle, the lock attachment followed and shifted up. Once it shifted up and stayed up, I went out and pulled the the outside door handle to open the door.
Hope this helps. Time for me to order the actuator and complete the rest of the work.
Big thanks to everyone who contributed to the thread.

Last edited by idozone; 01-02-2020 at 09:58 PM..
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