[racerbruce]

Originally Posted by racerbruce

AWESOME!
Great look with the lowering springs - thanks so much for sharing the details - wha a ride!

tell us about your front lip; cf? fitment is good? can you send a weblink would love to see it!

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by racerbruce

tell us about your front lip; cf? fitment is good? can you send a weblink would love to see it!

It is carbon fiber although only the last layer is actual carbon fiber. It's mostly fiberglass. But most carbon fiber items are like that in my experience. It's also an ebay lip but for these type of body items, I don't think ebay matters quality wise, they seem to all be built the same way. This is the listing: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/175286984730

Fitment is great if you install it properly which (IMO) is with nuts and bolts. I had so many issues installing this style of lip (My last one was from RW Carbon) on my previous car, tried like most people did, self tapping screws and 2 way tape but it ether slowly came off under high speeds or had a gap up front and wasn't perfectly flush with the bumper. This time around, took off the bumper, bought some squeeze clamps and could perfectly align it to the bumper's shape exactly how I wanted and keep it in place, then drilled my holes. Worked like a charm. A bit of a PITA I must admit to hold the nuts in the recess of the bumper for some of the bolts but I only take it off for winter season.

[racerbruce]

Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal

It is carbon fiber although only the last layer is actual carbon fiber. It's mostly fiberglass. But most carbon fiber items are like that in my experience. It's also an ebay lip but for these type of body items, I don't think ebay matters quality wise, they seem to all be built the same way. This is the listing: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/175286984730

Fitment is great if you install it properly which (IMO) is with nuts and bolts. I had so many issues installing this style of lip (My last one was from RW Carbon) on my previous car, tried like most people did, self tapping screws and 2 way tape but it ether slowly came off under high speeds or had a gap up front and wasn't perfectly flush with the bumper. This time around, took off the bumper, bought some squeeze clamps and could perfectly align it to the bumper's shape exactly how I wanted and keep it in place, then drilled my holes. Worked like a charm. A bit of a PITA I must admit to hold the nuts in the recess of the bumper for some of the bolts but I only take it off for winter season.

nicely done - the effort for proper fitment was achieved - looks great!

[racerbruce]

Calling any greater Seattle area 335is owners....

Perhaps a meet/greet TBD....summer 2023.

Post here if there is interest.


Regards
Racerbruce
Gig Harbor

[racerbruce]

is there a safe octane booster that you use either consistently or as needed? please send a weblink or product name - thanks.

racerbruce

[gregsatt]

Hello Everyone,
I need instructions to install the splash guard/underbelly pan on my 2011 335is. I had a little body do a little work, they ordered the wrong part, then gave the car back to me without it. I ordered the correct part, but it looks like I have to remove a lot of the bumper cover to install the new one. Anyone ever done this?

Thanks,
Greg

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by gregsatt

Hello Everyone,
I need instructions to install the splash guard/underbelly pan on my 2011 335is. I had a little body do a little work, they ordered the wrong part, then gave the car back to me without it. I ordered the correct part, but it looks like I have to remove a lot of the bumper cover to install the new one. Anyone ever done this?

Thanks,
Greg

Shouldn't have to remove the front bumper to fit the underpan. It should be pretty straight forward what do you need help with. I don't understand how you are facing an issue. Like is it not fitting or aligning?

[gregsatt]

I'm not seeing how it is supposed to slide up under the bumper cover. The little wings are getting in the way as well as some other plastic pieces...

Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal

Shouldn't have to remove the front bumper to fit the underpan. It should be pretty straight forward what do you need help with. I don't understand how you are facing an issue. Like is it not fitting or aligning?

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by gregsatt

I'm not seeing how it is supposed to slide up under the bumper cover. The little wings are getting in the way as well as some other plastic pieces...

Oh okay I think I might understand what you mean but without pictures it's difficult. But yeah first time I had to figure it out how it went. The splash shield will slide under the front bumper's "lip" and under the bolt holes of the fender liner.

[gregsatt]

I figured it out. Thanks for the help. I was able to slide it under the bumper cover...

Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal

Oh okay I think I might understand what you mean but without pictures it's difficult. But yeah first time I had to figure it out how it went. The splash shield will slide under the front bumper's "lip" and under the bolt holes of the fender liner.

[E93Seattle (Racerbruce)]

the red rocket awaits sunnier days in seattle....

[artemio]

Originally Posted by racerbruce

Calling any greater Seattle area 335is owners....

Perhaps a meet/greet TBD....summer 2023.

Post here if there is interest.


Regards
Racerbruce
Gig Harbor

I’m in!

[E93Seattle (Racerbruce)]

finished the install of:

-burger motorsports aluminum chargepipe w/new o-ring & clip
-tial q50 bov w/11 lb spring
-burger motorsports bov 6mm (1/4 in) adapter to accommodate 1/4 in line to bov per tial recommendations
-verocious motorsports platinum cured high temperature uber-thick wall silicone 1/4 in line to bov (not all vacuum hoses are created equal)
-burger motorsports jb+ plug & play boost increase

next up:
-ngk 2 step colder plugs
-dinan performance coils
-ecs billet aluminum pcv
-oem blowby vent hose

[b92]

Just picked up a full set of M4 brakes for my 335is; calipers, rotors and pads with 18k miles on them. They're not exactly plug and play but I got some machined caliper adapters from a forum member here in Poland.

Hoping to install sometime this month, will post pics when they're on! I already have stainless steel brake lines installed and just need to order the M3 master cylinder.

The brake fitment is going to be insane with my ARC-8Rs, my 18x9et30 fronts are the minimum size Apex recommends for M4s. Going to have single digit mm clearance between the caliper and the wheel face & barrel.

[BSM n54iS]

Originally Posted by E93Seattle

finished the install of:

-burger motorsports aluminum chargepipe w/new o-ring & clip
-tial q50 bov w/11 lb spring
-burger motorsports bov 6mm (1/4 in) adapter to accommodate 1/4 in line to bov per tial recommendations
-verocious motorsports platinum cured high temperature uber-thick wall silicone 1/4 in line to bov (not all vacuum hoses are created equal)
-burger motorsports jb+ plug & play boost increase

next up:
-ngk 2 step colder plugs
-dinan performance coils
-ecs billet aluminum pcv
-oem blowby vent hose

Attachment 3158751

Attachment 3158752

Attachment 3158753

Dont install that ECS pcv valve, it's designed for race cars only at 100% wot

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by BSM n54iS

Dont install that ECS pcv valve, it's designed for race cars only at 100% wot

Your comment made me worried since it seems to be like the other metal valves you can buy. Also their description sates it's valid for even a normal N54.

I am curious to know if maybe you are talking about another one or why you think they are bad? Are the non ECS ones ok?

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by b92

Just picked up a full set of M4 brakes for my 335is; calipers, rotors and pads with 18k miles on them. They're not exactly plug and play but I got some machined caliper adapters from a forum member here in Poland.

Hoping to install sometime this month, will post pics when they're on! I already have stainless steel brake lines installed and just need to order the M3 master cylinder.

The brake fitment is going to be insane with my ARC-8Rs, my 18x9et30 fronts are the minimum size Apex recommends for M4s. Going to have single digit mm clearance between the caliper and the wheel face & barrel.

Ohhh wow the newer brakes BMW make are definitely more appealing. I was considering doing something similar to but the price vs performance wasn't worth it for me with my stock build. Can't wait to see!

[E93Seattle (Racerbruce)]

Originally Posted by BSM n54iS

Dont install that ECS pcv valve, it's designed for race cars only at 100% wot

are you referencing the ftp valve?

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-5...alesrep=dugmar

Product Details
"The OEM plastic PCV valve does not hold pressure well even when brand new. What this means is that when the turbochargers are making boost, pressurized air can become forced backwards through the valve and back into the crankcase. Depending on the condition of your PCV valve this can range from irritating to dangerous as a pressurized case can cause all sorts of issues. Additionally, if your valve cover is cracked due to age or has a bad gasket you are more than likely experiencing a pressure leak either internally or externally. These two features can cause even a low-mileage N54 to run like a tired elephant, sometimes even unlocking a special bonus function known as "Limp Mode".

The solution is to replace any failed components and upgrade the PCV valve to something more capable withstanding the abuse of a turbocharged environment.

FTP Motorsport has you covered with this solid aluminum valve assembly. It is essentially the same thing that came in your car from the factory, made out of aluminum. The internal components have also been made to fit tighter and outlast the life of an off the shelf replacement. No, this won't be the very last PCV valve you buy, but it will most certainly alleviate a lot of headaches common to N54 owners. And if you're tuned, big twin or single swapped you need one of these yesterday."

[E93Seattle (Racerbruce)]

Originally Posted by E93Seattle

finished the install of:

-burger motorsports aluminum chargepipe w/new o-ring & clip
-tial q50 bov w/11 lb spring
-burger motorsports bov 6mm (1/4 in) adapter to accommodate 1/4 in line to bov per tial recommendations
-verocious motorsports platinum cured high temperature uber-thick wall silicone 1/4 in line to bov (not all vacuum hoses are created equal)
-burger motorsports jb+ plug & play boost increase

next up:
-ngk 2 step colder plugs
-dinan performance coils
-ecs billet aluminum pcv valve
-oem blowby vent hose

Attachment 3158751

Attachment 3158752

Attachment 3158753

just completed the ngk 2 step colder plugs, dinan performance coils, ftp billet aluminum pcv valve and oem blowby vent hose.

since i bought the car (dec 2022) she has had an intermittent miss @ idle and at low rpm under load (think under 2k rpm); the plugs were allegedly replaced prior to my purchase but not the coils; pleased to report the intermittent miss is solved now; btw all 6 plugs had a very clean and uniform appearance with no soot or oil on them which is good news.

idle is now perfect and she negotiates highway on-ramps to the posted speed limit in a blink.

[b92]

Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal

Ohhh wow the newer brakes BMW make are definitely more appealing. I was considering doing something similar to but the price vs performance wasn't worth it for me with my stock build. Can't wait to see!

Got everything for US$1500, my brakes are on their way out anyway so it was only about a $900 upgrade.

[BSM n54iS]

Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal

Your comment made me worried since it seems to be like the other metal valves you can buy. Also their description sates it's valid for even a normal N54.

I am curious to know if maybe you are talking about another one or why you think they are bad? Are the non ECS ones ok?

Originally Posted by E93Seattle

are you referencing the ftp valve?

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-5...alesrep=dugmar

Product Details
"The OEM plastic PCV valve does not hold pressure well even when brand new. What this means is that when the turbochargers are making boost, pressurized air can become forced backwards through the valve and back into the crankcase. Depending on the condition of your PCV valve this can range from irritating to dangerous as a pressurized case can cause all sorts of issues. Additionally, if your valve cover is cracked due to age or has a bad gasket you are more than likely experiencing a pressure leak either internally or externally. These two features can cause even a low-mileage N54 to run like a tired elephant, sometimes even unlocking a special bonus function known as "Limp Mode".

The solution is to replace any failed components and upgrade the PCV valve to something more capable withstanding the abuse of a turbocharged environment.

FTP Motorsport has you covered with this solid aluminum valve assembly. It is essentially the same thing that came in your car from the factory, made out of aluminum. The internal components have also been made to fit tighter and outlast the life of an off the shelf replacement. No, this won't be the very last PCV valve you buy, but it will most certainly alleviate a lot of headaches common to N54 owners. And if you're tuned, big twin or single swapped you need one of these yesterday."

No it was specifically the ECS one that was a 'plug' and not really a valve

[E93Seattle (Racerbruce)]

Originally Posted by BSM n54iS

No it was specifically the ECS one that was a 'plug' and not really a valve

thank you BSM; my apologies - i posted that i was installing the ecs valve and i was installing the ftp valve; i made double sure that it was the ftp and it was.

whew....good news; the ftp billet aluminum valve is precision machined and fitment was perfect; it's interesting as it arrives disassembled and the instructions w/pics make it very easy to prep for install.

i'll continue my rant re the design of the bmw oem crankcase breather hose connections (i posted on this topic a week or so ago); i tried every conceivable method to disconnect the connections w/o damaging them and couldn't do it, and finally broke them intentionally to remove them and installed the new oem hose; i read where many were able to disconnect them and wished i could have (even though i was replacing this hose) as it just doesn't seem appropriate to rip them off to get them off....not my best moment in my upgrade projects; i've rubbed my hurt spot and got over it.