[KrashFinatik]

Originally Posted by E90Winter

Great write up..
I think I am experiencing a similar leak on my 2008 328i RWD Manual.
I wonder what this would cost me at the dealer..

The average cost I've been seeing online ranges between $1200 - $1900 depending on the where you go and their door rate.

[spac3]

Just shy of $1100 at BMW Austin

[kmaforty]

I was quoted $830 for independent import mechanic shop. $700 just in labor.

[hardr85]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Thanks for the response. So the small rectangles on the sides of the connector body with the 3 ribs on them pinch in with pliers? Then for the other clips you use a small screw driver from the underside? Is there a metal ring in the connection? I was thinking of using some penetrating oil on it. What do you think?

And your DIY was great (I know I already said this). Very informative and saved me tons of time. Much appreciated.

I will be doing this soon, so I am starting to read up. This connector sounds similar to the one on the vent pipe on back of the valve cover. I have big hands and am old so my hand strength is not what it once was. I struggled with it a while, got pissed off, walked away so I would not rip it off. and ended up using a small hose clamp, opened it up, put it around the connector, cranked it down, and the hose came right off.

Just wanted to add this for future DIY'ers, this works great especially in tight places.

[PhaseP]

I will be doing this soon, so I am starting to read up. This connector sounds similar to the one on the vent pipe on back of the valve cover. I have big hands and am old so my hand strength is not what it once was. I struggled with it a while, got pissed off, walked away so I would not rip it off. and ended up using a small hose clamp, opened it up, put it around the connector, cranked it down, and the hose came right off.

Just wanted to add this for future DIY'ers, this works great especially in tight places.

Your idea of using a hose clamp on valve cover breather hose is a good idea since it forces from ellipses shape into circle and unlocks the tabs.
But the oil return line connection is different. It is a quick disconnect kind and if going by book is supposed to be opened by placing a 1/2" quick disconnect tool inside and then pulling it up.
(Talkin about metal valve cover N52s, year 06. Rest don't have this)

Do you have manual transmission or automatic?

Reason I am asking, if you have automatic, your engine oil pan is very likely a cast aluminum one. On those, the part of the tube that goes into the oil pan is a plastic one that is screwed into a hole on the oil pan. So instead of trying to disconnect that connection, you can unscrew that part of the tube that goes into the oil pan and remove the oil pan that way. If memory correct a 17mm open end wrench is needed.

After you remove the oil pan, since you will have much more room, you can undo that connection much easier with the 1/2" disconnect tool. I have a post on which tool a few posts up. Then you can screw the lower plastic tube back into the oil pan while you have the oil pan out, and put the oil pan back, and snap that connection back in. It has an o-ring that seals it, it would be wise to buy one and replace.

If you have manual transmission (and not XI) then you have press formed metal oil pan, and those have the lower tube made from metal and welded into the oil pan. So that won't work. You can still try to undo it with that disconnect tool.
Or hit it with a big flat screw driver as Eftreeoh mentioned. I suggest place the disconnect tool in there pushed up, then hit it, it would come with less risk of damage.

One suggestion, after you undo that connection, spray a good amount of electrical cleaner up that return line, the one that is coming down under the manifold. It has a ball operated check valve, and crud can make it not operating, this way you will clean it up. If it is clean you should be able to hear the ball moving around when you shake it.
I suggest electrical cleaner not brake cleaner because brake cleaner does strange things to plastic.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by hardr85

I will be doing this soon, so I am starting to read up. This connector sounds similar to the one on the vent pipe on back of the valve cover. I have big hands and am old so my hand strength is not what it once was. I struggled with it a while, got pissed off, walked away so I would not rip it off. and ended up using a small hose clamp, opened it up, put it around the connector, cranked it down, and the hose came right off.

Just wanted to add this for future DIY'ers, this works great especially in tight places.

To back up PhaseP, the oil return line is different than the vent tube on the valve cover. Later on in this thread, I mentioned that the way most BMW techs release the oil return line is to place a big flat-blade screwdriver on the lip of the connection and smack the end of the screwdriver rapidly and forcefully with a ball peen hammer. That's what I did and the line popped right off.

[hardr85]

Good deal, thanks for the info, anything to make this job easier is a huge plus. I have the 06 n52 with metal valve cover and automatic tranny so I should be able unscrew it as you described.

[2002]

About to do the gasket change on my 2009 328i Coupe with 6 speed transmission and noticed the gasket has 29 bolt holes and the bolt package has 28 pieces as shown in this picture:



Is there an extra hole in the gasket that is not used? Inquiring minds want to know!

[PhaseP]

That was the case with my xi oil pan. Gasket had one extra hole than the pan.

[2002]

Originally Posted by PhaseP

That was the case with my xi oil pan. Gasket had one extra hole than the pan.

PhaseP - Thanks for the conformation - I feel better now

[mdusenbery]

Thanks for the write up KrashFinatik, you are Absolutely right this job was a PIA. I did find that the rubber part of the gasket was a hard as a rock, leading to the leaks. I have nothing to add, it when just as you described . thanks again.

[Bendy22]

Thanks for your efforts on this write-up, KrashFinatik. I used this extensively in doing this job on my 2006 330i manual this past weekend. It has 101k miles and I purchased it with the pan leaking.

The only modifications to your steps that I had to employ were in order to get the subframe low enough to get the pan out from under the car. I had to also disconnect the swaybar from the subframe, the radiator plastic tube from the subframe, the steering column U-joint from the steering rack, and the wiring connector from the power steering pump. I also used a two-point engine support bar that I already owned as opposed to a three-point one and it worked superbly.

I started this on Friday evening and finished Sunday afternoon. I probably spent 10 hours on this total with a helper. The hardest parts were disconnecting the oil separator return tube from the pan and figuring out how low the subframe needed to be in order to free the pan. I bought the AC/fuel line release tools from Harbor Freight, but they did nothing to help me. The thing that did the trick was a small pair of needle-nose pliers with angled tips inside the connector.

Thanks again!

[Kingishmael]

Where would I get a hook for the engine if I lost mine?

[Engineer3D]

Doing mine now and will have to disconnect a lot more items to get more room inside the engine compartment.

What really sucks is that I purchased a oil pan.
And now that I am in there I see that all the JB-Weld that was used, was actually holding broken bolts in place and not cracks in the oil pan.
No wonder the previous owner did not answer questions fully.

Ah well, she still drove fine, just kept leaking more oil as months went on.
I replaced the Eccentric Shaft sensor.
Crank-shaft sensor connection was modded to stay in place ( I think they broke the bolt and jacked up the threads.)

I still have to find the Active Steering Unit and replace it. (And no.. it's not under the car seats, nor in the foot wells (left and right).

So now I am in the thought of selling the Oil Pan and using the old one, which so far looks fine. I still have to get to the 7 remaining bolts holding it in place on the drivers side...

But going slow so far.

[kkasson]

Originally Posted by Kingishmael

Where would I get a hook for the engine if I lost mine?

Part number is 72157070643. You can get it from the dealer or any usual parts supplier.

[Engineer3D]

I grabbed my hook for the engine off ebay for $13.00

Missing a lot of accessories, but did have the Continental repair kit for run flats.
That was about it.

[KrashFinatik]

Originally Posted by mdusenbery

Thanks for the write up KrashFinatik, you are Absolutely right this job was a PIA. I did find that the rubber part of the gasket was a hard as a rock, leading to the leaks. I have nothing to add, it when just as you described . thanks again.

Your welcome mdusenbery.
It was a necessity to start this thread because I found a lot of fellow owners were having this problem but there wasn't a decent DIY available.
The few that I found were cutting corners that would only lead to problems later, meaning you will only have to do the job again.
I appreciate your comments. Thanks

[KrashFinatik]

Originally Posted by Kingishmael

Where would I get a hook for the engine if I lost mine?

The wreckers or the "stealership".
Not sure what pricing would be though.

[KrashFinatik]

Originally Posted by Bendy22

Thanks for your efforts on this write-up, KrashFinatik. I used this extensively in doing this job on my 2006 330i manual this past weekend. It has 101k miles and I purchased it with the pan leaking.

The only modifications to your steps that I had to employ were in order to get the subframe low enough to get the pan out from under the car. I had to also disconnect the swaybar from the subframe, the radiator plastic tube from the subframe, the steering column U-joint from the steering rack, and the wiring connector from the power steering pump. I also used a two-point engine support bar that I already owned as opposed to a three-point one and it worked superbly.

I started this on Friday evening and finished Sunday afternoon. I probably spent 10 hours on this total with a helper. The hardest parts were disconnecting the oil separator return tube from the pan and figuring out how low the subframe needed to be in order to free the pan. I bought the AC/fuel line release tools from Harbor Freight, but they did nothing to help me. The thing that did the trick was a small pair of needle-nose pliers with angled tips inside the connector.

Thanks again!

That oil pan tube connector was pita. I had to come back to it a third time before I got it.
I'm surprised I didn't break it out of frustration.
Glad to help.

[KrashFinatik]

Originally Posted by Engineer3D

Doing mine now and will have to disconnect a lot more items to get more room inside the engine compartment.

What really sucks is that I purchased a oil pan.
And now that I am in there I see that all the JB-Weld that was used, was actually holding broken bolts in place and not cracks in the oil pan.
No wonder the previous owner did not answer questions fully.

Ah well, she still drove fine, just kept leaking more oil as months went on.
I replaced the Eccentric Shaft sensor.
Crank-shaft sensor connection was modded to stay in place ( I think they broke the bolt and jacked up the threads.)

I still have to find the Active Steering Unit and replace it. (And no.. it's not under the car seats, nor in the foot wells (left and right).

So now I am in the thought of selling the Oil Pan and using the old one, which so far looks fine. I still have to get to the 7 remaining bolts holding it in place on the drivers side...

But going slow so far.

Ouch!
The guy I bought mine from seamed pretty shady now looking back in hindsight. I was blinded by how good the car looked, drove & had all these creature comforts. Coming from an '04 Honda Accord stars in my eyes blocked the faults. The 2 times I went to look at the car it was dark & he had just finished washing it (to hide the oil leak).

[KrashFinatik]

Originally Posted by Engineer3D

I grabbed my hook for the engine off ebay for $13.00

Missing a lot of accessories, but did have the Continental repair kit for run flats.
That was about it.

Glad you were able to find one cheap.

[KrashFinatik]

I apologize to everyone for my extremely late replies. Between work and home sometimes I don't even want to touch my phone.