remote key will not open door locks

Thor3234 · 08-20-2012, 06:02 AM

Thank you for the fuse info, worked a treat, saved me a trip to the dealers.
An odd thing though, when the fuse was blown the doors would NOT lock or unlock, but the boot release worked, it had not worked before. Now I have replaced the fuse the boot release will not work. Any ideas how I can get the boot release from the remote to work again?
Thank you for your help.

hubble bubble · 08-23-2012, 09:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lazzer

Door lock actuators are dieing if not dead already, its a known issue with pre 08 E90's. Dealer should be able to fix this in under a day.

First time it happened to me was with the passenger door, while out on my wife's brithday. She had to crawl across from the driver's set in her little black dress. LOL.

Problem affects 08s too. Door actuators are a known issue with 3 series. Actuator is on the way out, power surge blows fuse. Replacing the fuse will fix it, temporarily, but it will probably happen again within 30-60 days. Costs about $500 for one side, $1,000 for both, if not under warranty.

matty76 · 08-24-2012, 10:46 AM

actuators definitely, mine had exact same symptoms, replaced the fuse but only worked for a short time before the problem came back, they replaced all door actuators, been peachy since.

Vuch · 12-31-2012, 01:32 PM

All, I had the same issue with the passenger door (07 335i)...other symptoms included some function resets on the computer (auto turn signal and nav reset) and the gas cap would not open. Additionally, had to open the car with the emergency key, passenger door didn't open and couldn't lock/unlock using the auto lock button on the dash.

There may be more issues but I followed the advice here and opened the back panel on the glove box, took out the fuze Rosetta Stone guide...Key Point: the car door symbol with the key has four fuses associated with it...I worked my way back from #57 and the second fuze I tried (a 15 amp) #56 was cooked. The top of the panel has some replacements (which I fitted right in) and viola! It worked. One gentlemen did mention that if it continues to happen (this was the first time for me - owned for 3 years), replace the 15 amp with a 20 amp. Just have to remember to replace the fuse I used...and, just a heads up, you'll have to work to contort your arm to access the fuses without the passenger side door access.

I cannot speak to the actuator problem (and pray I won't have to!). Thanks a ton for the great gouge. I hope this is helpful to someone.

08-20-2012, 06:02 AM	#23
Thor3234 Registered 0 Rep 1 Posts Drives: BMW 335I Saloon Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Berkshire, UK iTrader: (0)	Thank you Thank you for the fuse info, worked a treat, saved me a trip to the dealers. An odd thing though, when the fuse was blown the doors would NOT lock or unlock, but the boot release worked, it had not worked before. Now I have replaced the fuse the boot release will not work. Any ideas how I can get the boot release from the remote to work again? Thank you for your help.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

08-24-2012, 10:46 AM	#25
matty76 Private 3 Rep 54 Posts Drives: 2008 335i Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: hamilton iTrader: (0)	actuators definitely, mine had exact same symptoms, replaced the fuse but only worked for a short time before the problem came back, they replaced all door actuators, been peachy since.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

12-31-2012, 01:32 PM	#26
Vuch Registered 0 Rep 4 Posts Drives: 2007 BMW 335i w/Sport Pckg Join Date: May 2011 Location: Stafford, VA iTrader: (0)	All, I had the same issue with the passenger door (07 335i)...other symptoms included some function resets on the computer (auto turn signal and nav reset) and the gas cap would not open. Additionally, had to open the car with the emergency key, passenger door didn't open and couldn't lock/unlock using the auto lock button on the dash. There may be more issues but I followed the advice here and opened the back panel on the glove box, took out the fuze Rosetta Stone guide...Key Point: the car door symbol with the key has four fuses associated with it...I worked my way back from #57 and the second fuze I tried (a 15 amp) #56 was cooked. The top of the panel has some replacements (which I fitted right in) and viola! It worked. One gentlemen did mention that if it continues to happen (this was the first time for me - owned for 3 years), replace the 15 amp with a 20 amp. Just have to remember to replace the fuse I used...and, just a heads up, you'll have to work to contort your arm to access the fuses without the passenger side door access. I cannot speak to the actuator problem (and pray I won't have to!). Thanks a ton for the great gouge. I hope this is helpful to someone.
	Appreciate 0 Quote