[PrematureApex]

Originally Posted by ajsalida

It took all of a 12 ton hydraulic press to get it out. I seriously doubt it could be done with the type of tool you are thinking of. I have a special cup tool and have used it for replacing e36 M3 RTAB, this e9x bushing was far more snug. It took multiple full-force pops to get each one out, I doubt you could get anywhere near that amount of force with a cup type tool and a wrench. But you're welcome to try though I would not advise it. And pressing new bushings in, man I would not want to do that under a car either. In my case they were the poly strongflex, and those have much large OD at the lip, the tool you used to remove OEM is not the one you use to press it in.

I'll let you know how it goes, but I'm pretty sure it won't be a problem. If you can press wheel bearings, etc. easily this shouldn't be any different. I think I recall others doing it.

Anyway, just surprised you didn't try first considering the effort to get the axles out, etc.

Has to be similar to a 5 series regarding the press fit, etc.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=807494

[ajsalida]

Originally Posted by PrematureApex

I'll let you know how it goes, but I'm pretty sure it won't be a problem. If you can press wheel bearings, etc. easily this shouldn't be any different. I think I recall others doing it.

Anyway, just surprised you didn't try first considering the effort to get the axles out, etc.

Has to be similar to a 5 series regarding the press fit, etc.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=807494

I did consider it, I just rejected it after consideration. It appeared to me to be far easier and safer to do this job on a press vs lying under a car, assuming it can be done that way and I'm not sure it can. You do not have to remove the axles BTW. Popping the strut off the ball joint end was not that hard and if you are careful you won't damage anything.

After getting it onto a press and finding out how much force it took to get the bushings out, I am extremely glad I did not attempt it under the car.

I'm curious to hear what you find out, good luck.

[ajsalida]

Just to be clear, we're talking about the tension strut here, not the lower control arm. The LCA has a ball joint built into it and you cannot replace it without replacing the entire arm. Furthermore you can't get the nut off the ball joint end without removing the axle.

The ball joint on the opposite end of tension strut from the big bushing is pressed into the hub, and is not a part of the tension strut itself. The strut pops off of it easily and the nut is accessible. It is literally trivial to remove the tension strut assembly (strut + big bushing). I am old and beat up enough that lying on my back on cold concrete under a car manipulating large forces no longer holds mystery or romance. So I avoid it at all cost.

Now if someone were to try to replace just the inner bushing on the LCA as opposed to the tension strut, yeah I would definitely consider trying it under the car first because you have to disassemble the entire freakin' hub/axle etc. just to get at the nut on the ball joint. I know I just did one and I left the other side alone it was such a PITA. I had to replace an axle on that side though, so I replaced the LCA assembly while I was at it. The bushing on LCA's (XI's at least) is already a monoball type, not fluid filled like the TS, so just replacing the bushing with poly or spherical is not really worth it.

[PrematureApex]

Originally Posted by ajsalida

Just to be clear, we're talking about the tension strut here, not the lower control arm. The LCA has a ball joint built into it and you cannot replace it without replacing the entire arm. Furthermore you can't get the nut off the ball joint end without removing the axle.

The ball joint on the opposite end of tension strut from the big bushing is pressed into the hub, and is not a part of the tension strut itself. The strut pops off of it easily and the nut is accessible. It is literally trivial to remove the tension strut assembly (strut + big bushing). I am old and beat up enough that lying on my back on cold concrete under a car manipulating large forces no longer holds mystery or romance. So I avoid it at all cost.

Roger that. I'll probably pop the TS out then, but I'll use (or try) my massive bearing press C-clamp/impact on it.

Originally Posted by ajsalida

Now if someone were to try to replace just the inner bushing on the LCA as opposed to the tension strut, yeah I would definitely consider trying it under the car first because you have to disassemble the entire freakin' hub/axle etc. just to get at the nut on the ball joint. I know I just did one and I left the other side alone it was such a PITA. I had to replace an axle on that side though, so I replaced the LCA assembly while I was at it. The bushing on LCA's (XI's at least) is already a monoball type, not fluid filled like the TS, so just replacing the bushing with poly or spherical is not really worth it.

Ahhh...got ya. Makes sense now.

I'm doing just TS hydro on my X1, but am doing both inboard bushings on my 135.

[ajsalida]

Originally Posted by PrematureApex

I'm doing just TS hydro on my X1, but am doing both inboard bushings on my 135.

TBH (if I understand what you're doing) on the X1 TS if going with OEM hydro again, I'd never mess with replacing the bushing, just buy new TS assembly. Cost difference is minimal and it goes from an easy 30 min R&R job vs (possibly) many hours depending on how hard the bushing is to remove. If you're replacing hydro with poly or spherical, yeah remove TS assembly and replace bushing.

[PrematureApex]

Originally Posted by ajsalida

TBH (if I understand what you're doing) on the X1 TS if going with OEM hydro again, I'd never mess with replacing the bushing, just buy new TS assembly. Cost difference is minimal and it goes from an easy 30 min R&R job vs (possibly) many hours depending on how hard the bushing is to remove. If you're replacing hydro with poly or spherical, yeah remove TS assembly and replace bushing.

I agree. Strongflex poly going in. By "doing the TS hydro" I mean getting that POS out of there.

Anyone split the bushing in two for the install? Not that I think I'll wind up having to...

Not worried about getting the old one out. Should my bearing presses not get the job done, I can break/bend and/or cut the race to relieve the press fit without TOO much trouble. Not anticipating it getting that ugly though.

[ajsalida]

Originally Posted by PrematureApex

Yup, Strongflex poly going in. Those hydros are horrible.

Anyone split the bushing in two for the install? Not that I think I'll wind up having to...

Not worried about getting the old one out. Should my bearing presses not get the job done, I can break/bend and/or cut the race to relieve the press fit without TOO much trouble. Not anticipating it getting that ugly though.

You don't need to split the Strongflex bushing. Earlier in this thread someone did but it is not necessary at least with a good press on hand. It is a bit goofy to get going and you need to lube it up. That's one reason I would not want to do it under the car, plus you'll need a different size tool/fitting than the one used to remove old hydro. At least I did.

[shushikiary]

I second you dont need to split it, I didnt have to.

Also you CAN get both the front control arms completely out of the car without pulling the axle. I did. Yes its tight, but you can do it. I believe I used a 24mm combo wrench instead of a socket to get it off, which makes putting it back on with proper torque a little more difficult, but its for sure doable.

[PrematureApex]

Originally Posted by shushikiary

I second you dont need to split it, I didnt have to.

Also you CAN get both the front control arms completely out of the car without pulling the axle. I did. Yes its tight, but you can do it. I believe I used a 24mm combo wrench instead of a socket to get it off, which makes putting it back on with proper torque a little more difficult, but its for sure doable.

You replaced the inboard control arm bushing as well (not just the TS)?
Didn't see that available on the Strongflex site.

Or are you the gentleman who had them custom make one?

[ajsalida]

Originally Posted by shushikiary

I second you dont need to split it, I didnt have to.

Also you CAN get both the front control arms completely out of the car without pulling the axle. I did. Yes its tight, but you can do it. I believe I used a 24mm combo wrench instead of a socket to get it off, which makes putting it back on with proper torque a little more difficult, but its for sure doable.

Hmm I will have to try that. I could not even get a socket to seat on the nut let alone with a ratchet attached, so I went to sears and bought a regular box wrench, that did not work either. I was thinking some sort of thin wall shallow wrench thing might work but then I said screw it (for the side that I had not pulled the axle out of).

BTW I went with Lemforder LCA and they had a slightly smaller nut on the ball joint.

[shushikiary]

Originally Posted by PrematureApex

You replaced the inboard control arm bushing as well (not just the TS)?
Didn't see that available on the Strongflex site.

Or are you the gentleman who had them custom make one?

I am he. I emailed them and asked them if they would make a set of poly bushings for the inboard control arm as you call it, and they said if I shipped them a set of arms they would. So I bought some new arms off ECS tuning and shipped them to them in poland and about 2 months later they shipped them back to me with the bushings pressed in already. The bushings in the XI front control arm are not the same as the non XI, and I had bought a set for the non XI thinking they would be the same (as the rear front control arm in the non XI, since they look the same in pictures) but the non XI control arm bushing is longer on one side than the other, where as the XI is the same length on both sides, so it wouldnt work, so they were kind enough to make some for me sense I had already bought the wrong bushing from them, and their website stated that it would work, they have since updated their web sight to state that that bushing wont fit XI models.

for clarity: I'm referring to the bushing in control arm #15 here for the XI: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=31_0740

And the bushing in the control arm #14 here for the non XI: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=31_0814

Part that fits non XI but NOT the XI from strongflex: http://www.strongflex.eu/en/e81-e82-...553504019.html

To ajsalida: I could never get a socket on the thing either, but I have a husky (that's the brand name) 24mm combo wrench and I wasnt able to get the closed end of the wrench on the nut, but I was able to get the open end on it, so I used it to both put it on and take it off. To get the proper torque I measured the stock install depth vs total height of the ball joint and made sure the new one installed the same equivalent depth, I havent had any problems, though I wish I could have gotten a torque wrench on it.

[jwebb335xi]

Originally Posted by shushikiary

I am he. I emailed them and asked them if they would make a set of poly bushings for the inboard control arm as you call it, and they said if I shipped them a set of arms they would. So I bought some new arms off ECS tuning and shipped them to them in poland and about 2 months later they shipped them back to me with the bushings pressed in already. The bushings in the XI front control arm are not the same as the non XI, and I had bought a set for the non XI thinking they would be the same (as the rear front control arm in the non XI, since they look the same in pictures) but the non XI control arm bushing is longer on one side than the other, where as the XI is the same length on both sides, so it wouldnt work, so they were kind enough to make some for me sense I had already bought the wrong bushing from them, and their website stated that it would work, they have since updated their web sight to state that that bushing wont fit XI models.

for clarity: I'm referring to the bushing in control arm #15 here for the XI: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=31_0740

And the bushing in the control arm #14 here for the non XI: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=31_0814

Part that fits non XI but NOT the XI from strongflex: http://www.strongflex.eu/en/e81-e82-...553504019.html

To ajsalida: I could never get a socket on the thing either, but I have a husky (that's the brand name) 24mm combo wrench and I wasnt able to get the closed end of the wrench on the nut, but I was able to get the open end on it, so I used it to both put it on and take it off. To get the proper torque I measured the stock install depth vs total height of the ball joint and made sure the new one installed the same equivalent depth, I havent had any problems, though I wish I could have gotten a torque wrench on it.

Hey guys -

(2008 xi here). I ordered struts, shocks and mounts all around and I've noticed the front tires a cupping a bit. I was thinking about possibly replacing traction struts and control arms "proactively" while I've got the car apart.

If I get a traction strut without ball joint, is that ball joint hard to get into the wheel side of the strut and into the steering knuckle?

Also, with regard to the control arm ball joint, will it just about fall out of the car when unbolted or will i need a ball joint separator (which wold give me reason to go to harbor freight...)?

Thanks in advance for the comments.

[PrematureApex]

Originally Posted by jwebb335xi

If I get a traction strut without ball joint, is that ball joint hard to get into the wheel side of the strut and into the steering knuckle?

Also, with regard to the control arm ball joint, will it just about fall out of the car when unbolted or will i need a ball joint separator (which wold give me reason to go to harbor freight...)?

Thanks in advance for the comments.

Cupping is almost a way of life with these cars...

Regarding installing the TS, it isn't hard to install onto the knuckles ball joint. Just slide it over and tighten it down.

Regarding the control arm ball joint...probably depends. Last time I removed my control arm, a couple light hammer taps dropped it down.

I'd have at least a $10 pickle fork, if not a separator, on hand just in case. $20 on amazon, and a good thing to have.

[jwebb335xi]

Originally Posted by PrematureApex

Cupping is almost a way of life with these cars...

Regarding installing the TS, it isn't hard to install onto the knuckles ball joint. Just slide it over and tighten it down.

Regarding the control arm ball joint...probably depends. Last time I removed my control arm, a couple light hammer taps dropped it down.

I'd have at least a $10 pickle fork, if not a separator, on hand just in case. $20 on amazon, and a good thing to have.

Perhaps I'll get both the pickle fork and separator. I can always use the pickle fork to make smoors for the kids!

Thanks Apex!

[PrematureApex]

Posting from a phone, will update later. But I did the Strongflex poly tension strut bushings this afternoon. Per the above conversation, I left the arm on the car attached to the knuckle, and pressed the hydo out, poly in. Done in under an hour. Easy peasy. Didnt even have to get under the car.

[martinblair]

How did you manage that? Doesn't seem to have a lot of room to work with. I was looking for a thrust arm to get the bushing installed prior to taking anything apart, your method seems much better.
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1233883

[PrematureApex]

Ill post a pic tonight, but essentially when you unbolt the inboard end, you can rotate the arm out a lot, about even with the running board. Plenty of room to set up your pressing tools, either a ball joint clamp or a wheel bearing puller/threaded rod setup.

[ajsalida]

Originally Posted by PrematureApex

Ill post a pic tonight, but essentially when you unbolt the inboard end, you can rotate the arm out a lot, about even with the running board. Plenty of room to set up your pressing tools, either a ball joint clamp or a wheel bearing puller/threaded rod setup.

Hey that is cool you were able to get it done that way. Curious what exact type of tool(s) you used, the cup/threaded rod thing I've got I doubt could have done it. Even if I had the right size fittings and I didn't.

Anyway great option for others to follow your footsteps, I am not aware of anyone else who has managed it this way.

[PrematureApex]

Here are a couple pics...

I used a combination tools from a normal wheel bearing puller kit (e.g. harbor Freight) and a ball joint press kit (again, like you can get at Harbor Freight).



And as with most jobs, a strong impact gun helps (in this case, a Milwaukee 18V 1/2").

The inboard end of the TS comes out VERY easily with a couple 18mm tools of your choosing. I had to take off 2 fasteners of the undertray in order to allow it to hang down enough to remove the TS bolt.

After that, I used this setup to press the hydro out...driven by my impact gun.



^^Bearing is about 1/2 way pressed out.

As for the poly install, the first one went in easily with a similar setup. I think ajsalida jinxed me though, and the second one put up a bit of a fight. The bushing just didn't want to get started and popped out a couple of times.

I had to get a hair creative. I wound up pressing the poly into a receiver (a metal cylinder) which had a diameter half way between the diameter of the bushing's lip, and the TS opening. So it was easier to press in/get started. Then I butted that receiver up to the TS opening, and ran the bushing through. So in other words, I did a stepped press, a first stage which got the bushing started, and then a second stage into the TS. Worked like a charm.

[martinblair]

That's outstanding. Thanks for the pics and follow up. Doesn't seem too hard, may try it this way myself with some rental tools.

[martinblair]

That's outstanding. Thanks for the pics and follow up. Doesn't seem too hard, may try it this way myself with some rental tools.

[PrematureApex]

Originally Posted by martinblair

That's outstanding. Thanks for the pics and follow up. Doesn't seem too hard, may try it this way myself with some rental tools.

Certainly can be done without too much trouble.

But I should really stress, you need an impact gun doing it this way. There is no way to secure the TS arm so you can put torque on your press with a normal wrench/breaker to do the pressing operation.

A pedestrian impact won't do it.

I have a Milwaukee 1/2" high torque (that last of the M18 line before the brushless 1000 ft-lb "Fuel"). It's a beast that will take off axle nuts.

This job almost maxed it out. 20-30 seconds of hammering to move the hydro.

So that's the minimum impact you'd need. The brushless Milwaukee or Dewalts will manage it for sure, but a standard cordless you use for wheels, etc. might not cut it.