[Mybeardrocks]

Over the weekend I changed spark plugs, valve cover gasket, fuel filter assembly, and cleaned the vanos solenoids my 2009 BMW 328i. I took the car on a test drive for roughly 20 miles with nearly no issues. I was a block from my house when a gas cap warning came on then turned off. I turned the cap which was tightened. My wife took the car later that day to get groceries. The trip was no more than 30 miles round trip. She took the interstate coming back home and the car died on the side of the road. Of course, it didn't start anymore after that. Advance Auto let me borrow a scan tool which found all sorts of codes. I had to tow the car back home where it's still sitting and won't start. I'm able to crank it though.

I have some experience working on vehicles but nothing like this nightmare! Here's the codes my bluetooth scanner came up with:

2E83 Electric Coolant Pump, Power Reduced Operation
2E85 Electric Coolant Pump, Communication 2E8B Intelligent Battery Sensor, Signal
2DEC Power Management, Battery Monitoring 2E98 Generator, Communication
2E84 Electric Coolant Pump, Communication 2E9F Alarm status sensor
2E7C Bitserial data interface, signal
2E82 Electric coolant pump, shut-off
2DEB Power management, onboard network monitoring
2F9E Thermal oil level sensor
2E81 Electric coolant pump, rotary deviation
2A15 Tank ventilation and purge air system, fine leakage
29DC cylinder injection shut-off
2AAE Fuel pump

ANY help would be appreciated at this point!

[hassmaschine]

I would test your battery and/or alternator and replace as needed. Those errors sound like a power issue which shut down the water pump, fuel pump, CAN bus, and DME.

It could also be the IBS has failed. you can try unplugging it and see if it will start.

[Mybeardrocks]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

I would test your battery and/or alternator and replace as needed. Those errors sound like a power issue which shut down the water pump, fuel pump, CAN bus, and DME.

It could also be the IBS has failed. you can try unplugging it and see if it will start.

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

I would test your battery and/or alternator and replace as needed. Those errors sound like a power issue which shut down the water pump, fuel pump, CAN bus, and DME.

It could also be the IBS has failed. you can try unplugging it and see if it will start.

I tested battery...12.4. I also disconnected IBS but no start.

[Mybeardrocks]

How would I test the alternator without the car running? Again, I'm not a mechanic but I have the basic garage tools, multimeter, etc

[opjose]

Start by checking all of the connectors around the areas you were working on.

Given what work you did, something that was not fully snapped tight may have become disconnected leading to the lack of communication between the modules.

Then check all of the fuses particularly those in the engine compartment.

[ewicky]

Originally Posted by Mybeardrocks

Over the weekend I changed spark plugs, valve cover gasket, fuel filter assembly, and cleaned the vanos solenoids my 2009 BMW 328i. ...
2E7C Bitserial data interface, signal
...

Did you disconnect the battery while doing all that work?
Seems like an IBS issue. There isn't much on the BSD (bitserial bus) Not sure why that would be a no-start though. Unless the car overheated and ruined the engine.

[Mybeardrocks]

Originally Posted by opjose

Start by checking all of the connectors around the areas you were working on.

Given what work you did, something that was not fully snapped tight may have become disconnected leading to the lack of communication between the modules.

Then check all of the fuses particularly those in the engine compartment.

I'll go back and check it in the morning then post updates on progress, if any.

[Mybeardrocks]

Originally Posted by ewicky

Did you disconnect the battery while doing all that work?
Seems like an IBS issue. There isn't much on the BSD (bitserial bus) Not sure why that would be a no-start though. Unless the car overheated and ruined the engine.

Yea, I disconnected the negative terminal before any of the work was done. I hope there's not any engine damage...keep your fingers crossed.

[hassmaschine]

it's nearly impossible to damage your engine from a dead waterpump on the N52, and if it was just a waterpump, none of the other symptoms or errors make any sense (it won't shut off the engine, and it won't stop it from starting again).

I'm about 90% sure this is an electrical issue related to either your battery or charging system. I would check that the grounds are clean and well connected, and make sure everything is plugged in as well.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by Mybeardrocks

Over the weekend I changed spark plugs, valve cover gasket, fuel filter assembly, and cleaned the vanos solenoids my 2009 BMW 328i. I took the car on a test drive for roughly 20 miles with nearly no issues. I was a block from my house when a gas cap warning came on then turned off. I turned the cap which was tightened. My wife took the car later that day to get groceries. The trip was no more than 30 miles round trip. She took the interstate coming back home and the car died on the side of the road. Of course, it didn't start anymore after that.... Here's the codes my bluetooth scanner came up with:

2E83 Electric Coolant Pump, Power Reduced Operation
2E85 Electric Coolant Pump, Communication 2E8B Intelligent Battery Sensor, Signal
2DEC Power Management, Battery Monitoring 2E98 Generator, Communication
2E84 Electric Coolant Pump, Communication 2E9F Alarm status sensor
2E7C Bitserial data interface, signal
2E82 Electric coolant pump, shut-off
2DEB Power management, onboard network monitoring
2F9E Thermal oil level sensor
2E81 Electric coolant pump, rotary deviation
2A15 Tank ventilation and purge air system, fine leakage
29DC cylinder injection shut-off
2AAE Fuel pump

ANY help would be appreciated at this point!

My SWAG is that your vehicle is technically "Out of Gas", due to an issue with the fuel pump pickup, the tank "jet Pump" or a dislodged hose inside the tank, resulting in the Fuel Pump NOT being able to pickup fuel in the bottom of the Right Half of the Fuel Tank. Add a gallon of gas (which will go in Right Half of tank), and see if it NOW fires.

Questions:
1) Do you have SULEV N51 engine (and gas tank) or ULEV N52?
2) What does the gas gauge read?
3) Do you have at least a gallon of gas you can add to the tank (Regular is fine)?
4) Does your scan tool provide P-code in addition to Hex-code you posted?
5) If so, what is the P-code?

Here are the DEFINITIONS of the last two codes you listed, with Link to Fault Information Sheet that adds information about the Fault:

P140E | 29DC | Cylinder Injection Cut Off, Fuel Level Too Low
http://www.bmwfault.codes/XMLDiagVie...EANgAxADAANAA=

P1214 | 2AAE | Fuel Pump Speed Too High
P1215 | 2AAE | Fuel Pump Speed Too Low
http://www.bmwfault.codes/XMLDiagVie...IAMgAyADAANAA=

Note that 2AAE can mean either Fuel Pump Speed too LOW, OR too HIGH, and you need to either have a Scan Tool or Diagnostic Software (such as INPA) which can identify your DME or EKPS Module & provide the correct DEFINITION, or you need to see the P-code that is MORE specific than the Hex-code alone.

INPA would allow you to connect to the EKP (Fuel Pump) and to Activate it at different speeds, or to simply observe it while under DME & EKPS Control, to test its function. If you do NOT have INPA, simply Listen to Fuel Pump sound when you turn on ignition. Then add ~ 1 gallon gas and repeat to see if sound pitch or volume changes. Now try to start.

There are other possible issues with the Fuel Pump which may be preventing proper fuel pressure in the fuel rail. You also have OTHER issues (BSD Interface, etc.) which should be addressed once you get it to start, so post back.

George

[Mybeardrocks]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

My SWAG is that your vehicle is technically "Out of Gas", due to an issue with the fuel pump pickup, the tank "jet Pump" or a dislodged hose inside the tank, resulting in the Fuel Pump NOT being able to pickup fuel in the bottom of the Right Half of the Fuel Tank. Add a gallon of gas (which will go in Right Half of tank), and see if it NOW fires.

Questions:
1) Do you have SULEV N51 engine (and gas tank) or ULEV N52?
2) What does the gas gauge read?
3) Do you have at least a gallon of gas you can add to the tank (Regular is fine)?
4) Does your scan tool provide P-code in addition to Hex-code you posted?
5) If so, what is the P-code?

Here are the DEFINITIONS of the last two codes you listed, with Link to Fault Information Sheet that adds information about the Fault:

P140E | 29DC | Cylinder Injection Cut Off, Fuel Level Too Low
http://www.bmwfault.codes/XMLDiagVie...EANgAxADAANAA=

P1214 | 2AAE | Fuel Pump Speed Too High
P1215 | 2AAE | Fuel Pump Speed Too Low
http://www.bmwfault.codes/XMLDiagVie...IAMgAyADAANAA=

Note that 2AAE can mean either Fuel Pump Speed too LOW, OR too HIGH, and you need to either have a Scan Tool or Diagnostic Software (such as INPA) which can identify your DME or EKPS Module & provide the correct DEFINITION, or you need to see the P-code that is MORE specific than the Hex-code alone.

INPA would allow you to connect to the EKP (Fuel Pump) and to Activate it at different speeds, or to simply observe it while under DME & EKPS Control, to test its function. If you do NOT have INPA, simply Listen to Fuel Pump sound when you turn on ignition. Then add ~ 1 gallon gas and repeat to see if sound pitch or volume changes. Now try to start.

There are other possible issues with the Fuel Pump which may be preventing proper fuel pressure in the fuel rail. You also have OTHER issues (BSD Interface, etc.) which should be addressed once you get it to start, so post back.

George

Good news! It started after I added gas. However, the fuel gauge still reads a quarter tank is left eventhough it near empty. To test, I unplugged the fuel pump and fuel filter assembly then turned on the ignition. I still got the same quarter tank reading. Obviously something is stuck. The fuel pump is going really fast and louder than usual when the car is running. It's a constant sound. I was gonna put more gas in it but not sure if that's a great idea, especially if I have to open the tank back up.

To answer you questions from your post:
1. It's an N52
2. Gauge reads a quarter full
4. There was a P-code I apparently left out
5. P0442
Raw code: 0442
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Pending
OBDII: Evaporative emission (EVAP) system - small leak detected
BMW: Evaporative Emission System Leak Detected (small leak)

You guys have been a big help thus far...I appreciate yall.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by Mybeardrocks

... It started after I added gas. However, the fuel gauge still reads a quarter tank is left eventhough it near empty...
1. It's an N52
2. Gauge reads a quarter full
4. There was a P-code I apparently left out: P0442 [Actually, you told us about that -- it's the P-code equivalent of Hex-code "2A15" which you reported]...

Here is a TIS Description of the Fuel Supply System, or what goes on in the Fuel Tank, to pump fuel from the Left/Driver Half of the tank to the Right/Passenger Half where the Fuel Pump is located. Note the two "Jet Pumps". You have a Fuel Level Sensor on each Half of the Tank, and they each send a signal to the JBBF/JBE Module which can be read SEPARATELY by INPA to see how much fuel is in each half of the tank.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...supply/PQ22XEp

The gas gauge on the dash shows the TOTAL reading of BOTH Sensors. If the Jet Pumps are NOT functioning properly, you can have ~ 1/4 total tank in the Left side (or Left Half ~ half full), and NO FUEL in the Right Half Tank where the pump is located, resulting in the pump cavitating (drawing air) and running FASTER than normal, but pumping NO Fuel to the Fuel Rail, so Crank-NO Start.

Attached is an INPA Screen showing the separate Values for LEFT/Driver Fuel Level Sensor (Tankgeber Fahrer) and RIGHT/Passenger Fuel Level Sensor (Tankgeber Beifahrer). In the Screen attached, the Instrument Cluster Gauge read just less than 1/4 tank, BUT as you can see, the Driver (Fahrer) side was nearly empty and the Passenger (Beifahrer) sid was nearly half full.

That is because the Jet Pump acts to deliver fuel from the Driver side to the Passenger/Pump-Pickup side as fuel level falls in the tank. So an issue with the Jet Pump in your fuel tank would account for the pump cavitating or drawing air (having NO fuel in Right Half to pickup), while the Left side was nearly half full, and Gauge reading nearly 1/4 tank remaining based on Left side being nearly half full. For those resisting using INPA 'cuz it's in German, be aware that you can easily translate German technical terms to English using Google Translate:
https://translate.google.com/#view=h...te&sl=de&tl=en

In this case the other Status readout is:
Kühlmittelstand = Coolant Level; Waschwasser = Washer Fluid
Coolant Level: Sufficient = ausreichend: circle filled
Washer Fluid: Sufficient = ausreichend: circle filled
Drucksensor = Refrigerant Pressure Sensor (High Side, Compressor Valve OFF)

So in your case, using that INPA screen, INPA > JBBF/JBE > F5 > F3 Sensors, you can determine if the Jet Pump is NOT pumping fuel from Left Half to Right/Pump Half. You can also use INPA > EKPS (Fuel Pump Module) > F6 Activation to signal the pump to run at a designated speed, and see if the pump responds properly. I also attach a sample INPA Screen for Fuel Pump Activation so you can see what that looks like.

Proper diagnosis with INPA removes the guesswork. There's a LOT more to diagnosis than just reading Fault Codes.

George