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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N57 / M57 Turbo Diesel Discussions - 335d > Seriously, block your EGR (pictures inside)



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      03-24-2014, 09:48 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 135i_vs_ View Post
Your results are very interesting.

1. For those of us who have no choice but to keep the EGR operational for Emissions Purposes, I wonder how a meth kit alone would help with preventing build up.

2. Since your EGR is blocked off, do you still really need a meth kit.

3. Would a catch can alone prevent build up, since oil would no longer be introduced into the intake stream, creating havoc mixing with the EGR.

Nonetheless, there is light at the end of the tunnel for the 335d in the US market.
1. so long as you arent subject to random emissions testing, its entirely within the possibilities to run a block off, remove it a week or two before testing, reset the DDE and allow it time to reset the monitors before testing. I fully intend to smog my car when the smog renewal is up.

2. that is a good question, i cant really answer that since I didnt check the manifold in the time I had meth on but not EGR block

3. another good question which I cant really answer. I dont think there is much question though that a catch can would help and maybe a really effective catch can would stop the build up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BOTUS View Post
is this supposed to be the shocking blockages all the USA guys think is an issue?

the car's a tractor for heaven sake, it's not a clean room for building silicon wafers to go in an i7
whether you choose to believe it is an issue or not is up to you, but there are large numbers of US 335ds ending up in dealerships for this very reason. I wouldnt mind if you posted a picture of your own runners so that we can check and compare

Ive never seen a diesel tractor that revs to 5000 RPM, and if I have the choice between clean room intake runners and gunked up intake runners im going to take clean room every time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by FormerRotor View Post
HOOOP! I couldn't be happier than to see those results. Was the "before" pic also before meth or just before EGR block? I haven't blocked off my EGR, but have been running meth for a few months now and will be seeing how the runners looks in the nearish future.
The "before" was before meth or EGR block

Quote:
Originally Posted by Big_Daddy_38 View Post
Oh my!! I like this result. I am confused though. I thought I had been reading that blocking the EGR would crack the EGR cooler.
all of the EGR delete cooler cracking seems to be on much more modified cars and also from what I can tell seems to be on cars which have EGR tuned out and not blocked off. I dont know that the tune vs block has anything to do with anything or if its even true since I dont think many people are using a physical block instead of a tune.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DbLog View Post
Are people running a block off plates pre and post egr cooler? I assume a tune is needed to get rid of the engine light.
mine is after the EGR cooler, right at the EGR valve. TDIwyse I believe has a bit different setup he is running with the EGR deleted (block before the EGR cooler)

Last edited by Hoooper; 03-24-2014 at 09:58 AM..
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      03-24-2014, 10:01 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DbLog View Post
Are people running a block off plates pre and post egr cooler? I assume a tune is needed to get rid of the engine light.
The best (and safest) way to do this is to block pre and post. Blocking post up near the egr valve only still leaves the possibility of the egr cooler failing/cracking, dumping coolant into the motor, etc. Its unlikely but while the cooler is not seeing the flow of exhaust gas through it, it still is seeing a lot of boost from the exhaust side of the turbos. Hopefully we'll have a solution to this shortly with a block off plate.
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      03-24-2014, 10:26 AM   #25
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Yeah I would definitely block before the cooler.. Trapped gasses in the cooler create too much heat and pressure which ends up destroying the cooler
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      03-24-2014, 10:32 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iaknown View Post
The best (and safest) way to do this is to block pre and post. Blocking post up near the egr valve only still leaves the possibility of the egr cooler failing/cracking, dumping coolant into the motor, etc. Its unlikely but while the cooler is not seeing the flow of exhaust gas through it, it still is seeing a lot of boost from the exhaust side of the turbos. Hopefully we'll have a solution to this shortly with a block off plate.
FWIW, if you block the EGR up near the EGR valve you cannot dump coolant into the motor. At that point the only direction for it to go is out the exhaust. The guys you have seen with cracked EGR coolers and coolant going into the intake seem to all have had the EGR coded out but not physically blocked. I am looking forward to the prospect of blocking the EGR cooler top and bottom though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2deerwhistlers View Post
Yeah I would definitely block before the cooler.. Trapped gasses in the cooler create too much heat and pressure which ends up destroying the cooler
im not so sure I buy this theory just yet because in a completely stock motor the EGR valve closes at the times when the motor is building the most heat and pressure in the exhaust. I do believe though that blocking top and bottom is the best route. No reason to not block the bottom that I know of
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      03-24-2014, 11:39 AM   #27
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Mine is blocked up top near the valve at the joint with the fancy hose clamp. I used a stainless fender washer. Believe it was 1 inch with a 3/16 inch hole. Been on now for 3000 miles. I do get the Check engine light. But I have piece of mind that that nasty carbon is not choking up my intake.
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      03-24-2014, 11:43 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoooper View Post
FWIW, if you block the EGR up near the EGR valve you cannot dump coolant into the motor. At that point the only direction for it to go is out the exhaust. The guys you have seen with cracked EGR coolers and coolant going into the intake seem to all have had the EGR coded out but not physically blocked. I am looking forward to the prospect of blocking the EGR cooler top and bottom though.
Depends on the way the exhaust manifold is configured which I am unsure of. I know this from the my Powerstroke which actually has a sort of similar setup. Guys have hydrolocked motors from cracking EGR coolers, but not the way you'd think. No way for coolant to go in the motor through the intake like you stated. But say you crack the EGR cooler, shut your car off and let it sit long enough. You normally have a pressurized cooling system, so it will push the coolant out into the EGR cooler. If it pushes enough it could run into the exhaust manifold, cylinder head, then cylinder. Next time you start your car it will not be pretty. But all this depends on where the turbo outlet is on the manifold and where the coolant would run if this were to happen. Perhaps this can be confirmed.

In any case I have an extra egr cooler coming to make a block off plate off of. I have an idea that should allow the stock cooler to stay in place while being blocked. If I can find some time to make them I'll send you one to try if you can give me some feedback on it.
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      03-24-2014, 12:21 PM   #29
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wow hooper it looks great planning in doing the camera scope this weekend and sent it to BMWNA so they can see this
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      03-24-2014, 01:14 PM   #30
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this image from realOEM shows the large turbo underneath the manifold so if the cooler were to crack and drain it would run down into the big turbo and out the exhaust it looks like

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      03-24-2014, 01:33 PM   #31
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Yea it looks that way. Plus if I recall our motors sit tilted on an angle that would favor that.... But I certainly don't want to be the one to find out otherwise lol
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      03-24-2014, 02:06 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoooper View Post
TDIwyse I believe has a bit different setup he is running with the EGR deleted (block before the EGR cooler)
Actually, the EGR valve is still in place but the cooler is completely gone. There are blocks on both ends.

Block on exhaust side pic here:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=245

EGR cooler delete pic here:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=286
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      03-24-2014, 02:08 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iaknown View Post
Yea it looks that way. Plus if I recall our motors sit tilted on an angle that would favor that.... But I certainly don't want to be the one to find out otherwise lol
haha, yeah me neither. It almost looks like it was designed intentionally to prevent EGR cooler leaks from getting into the cylinder head, with the EGR cooler inlet coming off just outside of the turbo hot inlet and lower than the exhaust ports.
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      03-24-2014, 02:15 PM   #34
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Food for thought.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=102

From his post: "Now with all the unforeseen issues with cracked EGR coolers ( purchase of and time fitting ) , the final straw for me and this car was the hydro locking and bending of a con rod when the last but 1 EGR failed in spectacular fashion.
"
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      03-24-2014, 02:37 PM   #35
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yeah I read his saga before. Im still not sure how someone could have that many issues with a single car, but his apparently terrible luck is beside the point I guess. He never really found out whether the coolant came in the inlet or outlet did he?

There isnt any reason to ditch the EGR cooler aside from weight right? It seems like a bypass could be assembled without even removing the cooler but I havent pulled the connectors off to check. If both of the coolant connections are just nipples on the cooler like they appear to be, building a bypass using the right size nipple connector and a section of hose ought to be easy.
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      03-24-2014, 03:17 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoooper
He never really found out whether the coolant came in the inlet or outlet did he?
Yeah, he had quite a time of things. I don't recall seeing details one way or the other in regards to how the coolant made it in there.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoooper
There isnt any reason to ditch the EGR cooler aside from weight right? It seems like a bypass could be assembled without even removing the cooler but I havent pulled the connectors off to check. If both of the coolant connections are just nipples on the cooler like they appear to be, building a bypass using the right size nipple connector and a section of hose ought to be easy.
Weight and just eliminating coolant intrusion was the main reason I went there. I think the guy in the link mentioned that he cut those connnectors off one of his many failed EGR coolers and welded up a pipe between them when he experimented with a cooler bypass. But I believe he had issues with wildly varying coolant temps when trying to run the bypass and went back to the EGR cooler. I haven't had any such coolant temp variation problems with the coolant bypass and EGR cooler delete.
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      03-24-2014, 03:38 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TDIwyse View Post
Weight and just eliminating coolant intrusion was the main reason I went there. I think the guy in the link mentioned that he cut those connnectors off one of his many failed EGR coolers and welded up a pipe between them when he experimented with a cooler bypass. But I believe he had issues with wildly varying coolant temps when trying to run the bypass and went back to the EGR cooler. I haven't had any such coolant temp variation problems with the coolant bypass and EGR cooler delete.
Ive seen mention of another UK car that had temp fluctuations after deleting the EGR. It was an LCI version running the pre-LCI EGR delete pipe that you can get off of ebay. Doesnt make sense when you consider that ours with the block off dont have any issues when thats essentially the same thing from a DDE standpoint.
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      03-24-2014, 04:11 PM   #38
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There are some slight variations in the coolant routing and parts in our US version vs the Euro version in the EGR cooler area. Not sure if that's the reason? It wasn't obvious to me why the way ours is routed that there would be an issue, so I decided to "try it". Takes a little longer to warm up in the extreme cold weather, but with the winter front covers I use during the extreme cold it still warms up faster than stock with no covers. Been many months now and no observable coolant temp issues (I use Torque app everytime I drive and coolant temp is something I'm always monitoring).

Man, I was glad to see your pic! [raising my glass of bourbon your way in salute]
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      03-24-2014, 06:06 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TDIwyse View Post
Actually, the EGR valve is still in place but the cooler is completely gone. There are blocks on both ends.

Block on exhaust side pic here:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=245

EGR cooler delete pic here:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=286
TDI, sorry to pester you with a couple questions. Post 245 shows us the copper plug. Did you have a mating flange made to bolt to the exhaust manifold flange OR did the copper plug get put directly into the exhaust manifold. I see 2 screws installed making me think a secondary part (with copper plug installed) is bolted to exahaust manifold.

Post 286 shows us the finished product. Would you mind showing me the blocking on the EGR valve end too?The photo you offer shows it going off upper edge of page. Edit: I found post #109 that showed your EGR cooler outlet photo but with cooler still attached. Courious of that same view but without cooler attached.

I keep waiting for Ecotune as i wanted to recode for all 3 in same shot (EGR, DPF, DEF all off). I'm wondering if they would give me a deal where I only code EGR off now and then pay the difference to get other two "codings" added on when the pipe is for sale. I'm resistant to cut into the good DPF. I wish I could find a salvage yard one.

It would mean two separate times to mail in ECU to New Jersey if i wait on DPF delete. I could see why they would want more money from a hassle factor perspective. I guess i need to ask the question and not guess.

One more for you TDI. Your "ebay" EGR cooler. Was it a US spec one for 335D or was it a Eurospec one? When i look on ebay, i see euro ones. I don't have the trained eye to know if it will work in terms of the water fittings. Perhaps you also cut off the inlet flange to do what I'm asking of in the "post 245" question.

thanks TDI.

Last edited by BB_cuda; 03-24-2014 at 06:33 PM..
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      03-25-2014, 07:50 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BB_cuda View Post
TDI, sorry to pester you with a couple questions. Post 245 shows us the copper plug. Did you have a mating flange made to bolt to the exhaust manifold flange OR did the copper plug get put directly into the exhaust manifold. I see 2 screws installed making me think a secondary part (with copper plug installed) is bolted to exahaust manifold.
Bought a used EGR cooler off eBay first to experiment/play with. Ended up cutting the mating flange off that and used it with the copper slug to bolt into place on the exhaust manifold.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BB_cuda View Post
Post 286 shows us the finished product. Would you mind showing me the blocking on the EGR valve end too?The photo you offer shows it going off upper edge of page. Edit: I found post #109 that showed your EGR cooler outlet photo but with cooler still attached. Courious of that same view but without cooler attached.
Don't think I have a pic exactly like that. Sorry. Maybe this weekend I can snag one.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BB_cuda View Post
I keep waiting for Ecotune as i wanted to recode for all 3 in same shot (EGR, DPF, DEF all off). I'm wondering if they would give me a deal where I only code EGR off now and then pay the difference to get other two "codings" added on when the pipe is for sale. I'm resistant to cut into the good DPF. I wish I could find a salvage yard one.

It would mean two separate times to mail in ECU to New Jersey if i wait on DPF delete. I could see why they would want more money from a hassle factor perspective. I guess i need to ask the question and not guess.

One more for you TDI. Your "ebay" EGR cooler. Was it a US spec one for 335D or was it a Eurospec one? When i look on ebay, i see euro ones. I don't have the trained eye to know if it will work in terms of the water fittings. Perhaps you also cut off the inlet flange to do what I'm asking of in the "post 245" question.

thanks TDI.
US EGR cooler is what I bought. But I didn't look to see if it's the same as the Euro version. I did use the ebay'd EGR cooler as the "bypass" for awhile (cut off the exhaust in/out sections when the blocking plates were first being tested and used the EGR cooler as the coolant bypass) to verify things worked before doing the whole delete.
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      03-25-2014, 12:35 PM   #41
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Thanks TDI. I guess the US spec EGR cooler was a "lucky find" on ebay.

I recall that you said you had a friend that did machining stuff and he fabricated your copper plug.
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      03-30-2014, 10:37 PM   #42
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OK guys, I have a spare EGR cooler here and should have time to fire up the Haas CNC this week and make a block off. I'd be willing to make a couple for some that can trial fit it and give me some feedback, then I'll sell them for a reasonable price. Looking at how this unit mounts I have one question, perhaps you guys can help me out....The design I am thinking of will allow you to either eliminate your cooler altogether (coolant bypass is on you) or leave it in place. If left in place it would probably kick the exhaust manifold side forward about 1/8", so a spacer would be needed on that end where it bolts to the engine (on the EGR cooler mount, not the block off). Do you guys foresee any problems with that?
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      03-31-2014, 05:13 AM   #43
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IAKNOWN I'm in for it I hv a guy in New York who removed his DPF and will be machining a new pipe. I will contact my programmer to code out both egr and dpf. Call me or txt
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      04-01-2014, 12:41 PM   #44
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OK guys, I finally made something happen today on the block off. See the pics. It's dished on one end to receive the factory flare, flared on the opposite end to seat to the manifold and has a 1/4"+ thick body in the center. I wanted to go this route because it only pushes the EGR cooler forward .100" so you could leave it in place if need be. I would imagine you'll need a washer where the mount is, or just leave the bolt out, but we won't know that until it gets installed. I remember TDIwyse saying it was a tight fit so we'll see. I have to make one more change and then will run a few of these off to try....Feedback please, especially from those of you who have removed yours or made your own.
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