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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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325d/330d Glow plug replacement
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02-02-2013, 11:22 AM | #1 |
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325d/330d Glow plug replacement
Short guide to explain the process used to remove the glow plugs on pre LCI 6 cylinder 325d & 330d M57N vehicles.
This guide can be combined with the thermostat replacement guide available here, courtesy of shane55: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ght=thermostat It can also be used to aid in the replacement of the glow plug controller unit on the M57N engine. |
02-03-2013, 06:30 AM | #2 |
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Gold Standard DIY write-up
That my friend is exactly how a DIY write-up should be......You just need to take the rest of the car apart now and document in the same way ;-)
Fantastic work Last edited by superflyguy9; 02-03-2013 at 06:32 AM.. Reason: didnt do the ratings doh |
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02-03-2013, 04:15 PM | #3 |
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07-28-2013, 04:28 AM | #5 |
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Drives: F10 530d M Sport, E87 118d M
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Thanks for this guide. I used it last weekend for the purpose of replacing a glowplug on my 2007 e90 330d. I found a few differences which I have included below together with some tips which others may find useful.
I could not remove the rear engine cover. I fought with it for over an hour but I found it impossible to remove until I removed the housing below the windscreen into which the two stabiliser bars fit. This requires the removal of the edge trim fitted to the panel containing the windscreen wiper mechanism and then the stabiliser bar housing, held on by 3 bolts can be removed by firmly pulling. I could then just manoevre the rear engine cover into a position that it could be removed. On the rear of the manifold there were 2 small brackets holding wiring looms in place. One is held by a 10mm stainless bolt and the other by a torx bolt. I used a mirror and torch to help locate and identify these. On the right side rear of the manifold (when facing the engine) there is a vacuum pipe connected to the swirl flap vacuum mechanism. This needs to be removed. Both the EGR and this vacuum pipe are difficult to remove however there is enough slack in the pipe length to cut the pipe as close as possible to the vacuum mechanisms. On the RHS of the engine I needed to detach the oil dipstick holder and a wiring loom conduit from the bracket bolted to the RHS of the manifold. I could then access the bolt to remove the bracket. When lifting off the manifold please be really careful that none of the orange rubber/metal washers drop from underneath the manifold. There are seven of these and they are located at the bottom of the holes in the manifold which accommodate the 7 studs on the RHS of the cylinder head from which you removed 7 11mm nuts. One of these washers dropped off when I removed the manifold and I could not find it. I removed the undertray, searched for hours with a torch and purchased an endoscope camera off ebay to search within the inlet ports - all to no avail. I never found the washer or one of the EGR valve bolts which I also dropped. I had heard that Glowplugs can be seized and can snap when being removed. I found a useful document produced by Beru which specifies the breakage torque and recommends setting your torque wrench to approx 34NM when removing the plug. If the plug does not release at this torgue then repeated application of heat and release fluid is the way to guarantee easy removal. Mine came out easily. The link to the Beru PDF is http://www.beruindia.com/pdf/GLOW%20PLUGS.pdf The orange gaskets were in good condition and I reused all gaskets. My EGR Valve was only slightly carbonised and it took me only 20 minutes to clean it. My car has done 145,000 miles. There was signs of oil (Diesel) leakage around the swirl flaps. I removed these, cleaned them up and replaced them using Tiger Seal to hopefullly prevent further leakage. Given the lost washer I held my breath before starting the car but the car started first time with no undue noises. I hope this helps others PS - I eventually found the orange washer some months later - sat on a ledge near the starter motor. I also found the EGR valve bolt on the radiator section of the undertray! All places I had examined numerous times previously!!
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Last edited by tmarshall57; 06-09-2014 at 06:01 PM.. |
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08-05-2017, 08:38 AM | #6 |
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Many thanks for this guide and also for the useful additions of tmarshall57 (which I only read after using the guide BTW, but there's good info in there). I used it on my 2006 E91 330D (so pre-LCI). I also changed the orange gaskets. Also dropped one of those metal/orange washers but managed to find it. Thanks again guys!
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06-16-2018, 02:27 PM | #7 | |
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Another question. I've been told that I should replace the module when I do this, but it seems the module has to be removed from under the car, not from the top. Is there a reason to do them at the same time? Ian |
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05-21-2020, 05:51 AM | #8 |
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Thanks to the OP for creating the guide, it is very clear and concise.
I will be using it to attempt to change all 6 plugs to BERU GE102 and module to BERU GSE102 as I know these get knackered over time and mine is a 2008 model with 105k miles and 3 cylinders are showing activation errors on them. I have one question regarding the gaskets. I was quoted under £110 for 12 gaskets from BMW today! I couldn't believe myself for a second and am still thinking that the sales guy made an error, even after asking him twice that is this price correct. So, I have seen a complete set on eBay for £19.95. 174019677421 eBay item number. It includes 18 gaskets... I would like to know if others on this forum have gone with aftermarket gaskets rather than BMW. As its the air intake side, I assume its okay to get away with aftermarket ones? Thanks, Last edited by bmw_solid; 05-21-2020 at 05:52 AM.. Reason: Typo |
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05-23-2020, 12:50 PM | #9 | |
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Bump! |
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05-25-2020, 07:27 AM | #10 | |
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