[HeyTeeee]

Update. Didn’t want to make a whole new thread. While the car runs better particularly from a dead stop.m, My ltft have gone from ~-2 - +3 ish to -5, -6 and -7 sits in that range. Response better trims/timing corrections worse than before the injectors fp regulator ans hpfp. No codes but theres something wrong. I have pro tool anything I can observe to further diagnosis issues?

[weehe126]

Originally Posted by HeyTeeee

Update. Didn’t want to make a whole new thread. While the car runs better particularly from a dead stop.m, My ltft have gone from ~-2 - +3 ish to -5, -6 and -7 sits in that range. Response better trims/timing corrections worse than before the injectors fp regulator ans hpfp. No codes but theres something wrong. I have pro tool anything I can observe to further diagnosis issues?

Just want to make sure, you coded the new injectors right?

[HeyTeeee]

Originally Posted by weehe126

Just want to make sure, you coded the new injectors right?

I coded them with Protool yes. I took down all the numbers on an excel sheet plus took pictures of each injector just to be sure. I would think FT's would either remain the same or improve rather than take a wild swing to the negatives. MAF was cleaned while I had everything apart on the logs it appears to react quickly to throttle position. I dont think I have a vac leak somewhere but I would assume I'd see ft's closer to the positives or positive. Maybe o2 sensors? I'm sure there are gaps in my troubleshooting, everything I've been looking I've been gathering from other posts.

[weehe126]

Originally Posted by HeyTeeee

I coded them with Protool yes. I took down all the numbers on an excel sheet plus took pictures of each injector just to be sure. I would think FT's would either remain the same or improve rather than take a wild swing to the negatives. MAF was cleaned while I had everything apart on the logs it appears to react quickly to throttle position. I dont think I have a vac leak somewhere but I would assume I'd see ft's closer to the positives or positive. Maybe o2 sensors? I'm sure there are gaps in my troubleshooting, everything I've been looking I've been gathering from other posts.

Did you reset any parameters after the swap?

[HeyTeeee]

Originally Posted by weehe126

Did you reset any parameters after the swap?

Not that I'm aware of. Had to clear codes a couple times as 28A0/2820 likes to linger around after the battery has been disconnected for a bit.

[Pladi]

Originally Posted by weehe126

Did you reset any parameters after the swap?

if he is doing this injector work one would hope that the battery was disconnected for a while. This means he is probably having to re learn long term fuel trims now.

[HeyTeeee]

Originally Posted by Pladi

if he is doing this injector work one would hope that the battery was disconnected for a while. This means he is probably having to re learn long term fuel trims now.

Battery wasn’t reconnected until I was done probably a solid 24 hours since I attempted to finish before work but didn’t bc I dropped the lower intake screw.

Here is log of idle I took

https://datazap.me/u/heyteeee91/idle...ta=12-13-20-21

I took another log during a hr long or so drive probably a 10 min long log at ltft sat at ~ -3 %

https://datazap.me/u/heyteeee91/idle...&data=13-20-21

[Pladi]

Originally Posted by HeyTeeee

Battery wasn’t reconnected until I was done probably a solid 24 hours since I attempted to finish before work but didn’t bc I dropped the lower intake screw.

Here is log of idle I took

https://datazap.me/u/heyteeee91/idle...ta=12-13-20-21

I took another log during a hr long or so drive probably a 10 min long log at ltft sat at ~ -2-3 %

You need to check ur ltft after 60 miles or so driving

[HeyTeeee]

Originally Posted by Pladi

You need to check ur ltft after 60 miles or so driving

Got about 80 miles in on Sunday that log may have been before 60. I'm going to double triple check my injector codes against my excel sheet when I get home tonight. Adhd side of me is starting to say

are ya sure the numbers match?! I did notice there are quite a few more steps using ista than the protool which also makes me wonder if I inadvertently skipped some steps.

[weehe126]

Just reset all adaptations with MHD to be safe at this point.

[HeyTeeee]

Originally Posted by weehe126

Just reset all adaptations with MHD to be safe at this point.

I cant I only have the log license BUT I believe I can do so through protool.

[HeyTeeee]

Originally Posted by Pladi

You need to check ur ltft after 60 miles or so driving

After further reading I’m going to assume ~60 miles means a variety of idle/low/medium/high load. Which I’ll do this weekend. These next couple weeks should cover light/medium load since my daily commute is city driving mostly sitting in 2nd/3rd gear.

[weehe126]

Originally Posted by HeyTeeee

I cant I only have the log license BUT I believe I can do so through protool.

It should be on the codes tab. I don't think you have to pay extra for it.

[HeyTeeee]

Originally Posted by weehe126

It should be on the codes tab. I don't think you have to pay extra for it.

The app says I need the flasher license. Womp womp wommmmp owell. I’m going to try to figure out this giant ista inpa install this weekend so I can get accurate o2 readings. Idk which options in Protool to use and every video Ive seen either uses ista or inpa i forget or a foxwell type scanner.

Mhd has adaptation resets clearly labeled for lambda/hpf/etc protool just says
Reset adaptations.

[Pladi]

Originally Posted by HeyTeeee

The app says I need the flasher license. Womp womp wommmmp owell. I’m going to try to figure out this giant ista inpa install this weekend so I can get accurate o2 readings. Idk which options in Protool to use and every video Ive seen either uses ista or inpa i forget or a foxwell type scanner.

Mhd has adaptation resets clearly labeled for lambda/hpf/etc protool just says
Reset adaptations.

I would use ISTA. Its free.