[dailyis]

I have a electrical issue on my 2011 BMW 335is.

Recently I had decided to try and get taller tires (255/45/19 from 255/30/19) because I kept getting flat tires. In fact it's my sixth time getting a new tire. After those tires started rubbing, I noticed that it wasn't my tires but because I needed an alignment (inside of tire is balding as if there is a camber, last time I got an alignment around ~6 months). Since the tire rubbed, it ripped my fender liner out, and frayed the wiring underneath the fender liner in my rear passenger, which connects to the battery in the trunk. I've gotten all of these electrical codes (which do not pop up anymore, since re wiring and reinforcing the wiring)

I don't know how to add videos to show the hesitant startup, but it sometimes seems the car is dead.. and won't start at all. but how would it die? It was starting up perfectly since I've gotten it, up until those wires frayed and I rewired them (yes I matched each color correctly). Whilst I was driving before I fixed it, all of the electronics turned off in the car (nav, gauges, infotainment screen on dash etc) but still drove. Now it sounds like it won't start at all.

- Since I rewired those frayed wires, I never got any codes besides the throttle code (that happened when trying to retune to raise the idle in MHD), resetting codes makes it go away. Could it be my battery? What are the odds it's the alternator or starter, because the starter clicks fine? People also have said it could be my hpfp, but my line pressure and lpfp pressure is perfect?

[ctuna]

first stop is always check for a good battery and try putting
a full charge on it.
You will get many false codes if the battery is low or bad.

[dailyis]

Originally Posted by ctuna

first stop is always check for a good battery and try putting
a full charge on it.
You will get many false codes if the battery is low or bad.

Originally Posted by ctuna

first stop is always check for a good battery and try putting
a full charge on it.
You will get many false codes if the battery is low or bad.

I don't have any codes at all though. No electrical related codes whilst idling or whilst driving ever. What could it be?

[ctuna]

So your saying the codes you displayed are not codes.
If you are having start problems you should post in the general
forum not the stereo and bluetooth forum.

Did you actually measure the battery voltage with a voltmeter.

[dailyis]

Originally Posted by ctuna

So your saying the codes you displayed are not codes.
If you are having start problems you should post in the general
forum not the stereo and bluetooth forum.

Did you actually measure the battery voltage with a voltmeter.

Those codes I got were all when I rode over dips on the highway. They showed up because wires were frayed and I fixed them, cleared all them, and they never showed up again. They showed up because the frayed wires were all touching (ground, common, 2 other wires) and causing it to short out. But I posted them just for reference as to why everything in the cluster and CIC was turning off/glitching.

[Captain Buumer]

alternator or starter.

Alternator charges the battery.
Battery provides electricity to starter.
Starter cranks the engine.

So if your battery charge is over 12.5V and it cranks weak/slow then it is quite obviously a weak starter.

cleared all them, and they never showed up again

Since I rewired those frayed wires, I never got any codes besides the throttle code

Which one is it then?

Also fix the throttle valve before doing any other investments. It could the root cause if slow crank is intermittent and not persistent.

The throttle valve chokes the intake air to ensure that the increased exhaust-gas temperatures required for regeneration of the particulate filter are reached. The throttle valve is closed while the engine is being shut down; this reduces shaking of the engine during the shutdown.

[dailyis]

Originally Posted by Captain Buumer

Alternator charges the battery.
Battery provides electricity to starter.
Starter cranks the engine.

So if your battery charge is over 12.5V and it cranks weak/slow then it is quite obviously a weak starter.

This morning I checked the voltage again and it read 9volts, then when I started my car, it read 13.41. It has to be the battery? Going to go buy one now and code it with ista.

[Captain Buumer]

Yeah, it's the battery.

Healthy battery maintains over ~12 voltage.

It's worth upgrading to AGM if you have coding at hand.

Of all the cars i own an AGM battery has yet to fail me in winters even on oldest car that has AGM battery for 7th year now. (Varta or Bosch = same, take whichever is cheaper). I got access to shop battery return info and that made it easy to make a decision.

[dailyis]

Originally Posted by Captain Buumer

Yeah, it's the battery.

Healthy battery maintains over ~12 voltage.

Can I use a Autozone battery? The only brand they have is duralast, but it's an h8, 850 cca, 80 aH

[dailyis]

Originally Posted by Captain Buumer

Alternator charges the battery.
Battery provides electricity to starter.
Starter cranks the engine.

So if your battery charge is over 12.5V and it cranks weak/slow then it is quite obviously a weak starter.

Which one is it then?

Also fix the throttle valve before doing any other investments. It could the root cause if slow crank is intermittent and not persistent.

The throttle valve chokes the intake air to ensure that the increased exhaust-gas temperatures required for regeneration of the particulate filter are reached. The throttle valve is closed while the engine is being shut down; this reduces shaking of the engine during the shutdown.

The throttle code hasn't shown up either anymore. It only showed up when I tried to retune it to have higher idle, which went away in like 4 days. It happened two other times when retuning also.