[klipseracer]

This is just the beginning. Everyone's input, ideas and opinion are welcome here and will only help inform others that haven't yet organized these modifications into an upgrade path. This list is just from my own personal experience and from the things I've seen on my journey to fully modded and back to stock. Some of these items could be switched around and it completely depends on your driving habits, however, performance within typical means is my overall goal. I've notably left nitrous out of this post, although I regard it as a safe and viable upgrade, anyone who is going to safely implement it simply won't need to learn about it or how it works from this beginners guide.

Prior to any performance mods: GET A BASELINE DYNO. Suggested would be a Dynojet corrected in STD. I'm not implying any type of superiority, however this is what most members in this community use and would be the easiests to identify any irregularities.

First mod in everyone's forced induction toolkit should always be:

1. Boost gauge.

If you're planning on/currently are tuning your car, this should ALREADY be in the car. Its hard/impossible to diagnose a tune/boost related symptom or problem(which you WILL have) and not come crying to the boards if you don't even know what boost pressures you are running. Irrefutably known as the sleekest, classiest gauges out there and certainly retains its resale value is the P3cars.com Digital Vent Gauge through Rixt3r:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=247049

2. OCC. Oil Catch Can's are not only for those running high boost pressures. Even in stock form the N54 blows by significant oil residues. If your car is new (or not) and plan on upgrading to an FMIC, its a great time to make the addition before it gets too messy. I am a believer in the saying, if you can afford to tune it, you can maintain it also. I have personal experience with the BSH crew and can put my approval on them and the stock like quality and appearance is top notch:

http://e90post.com/forums/showthread...&highlight=bsh

3. Tune. This is usually the biggest per dollar upgrade performance wise to your vehicle as well as future expandability(with piggybacks). The ease of installation of a piggyback tune as well as their on-going development makes a piggyback tune one of the best purchases you can make. Flash tunes have turned out to be very good tunes also coming from the likes of GIAC as one example, however for someone who is new to the field and is still experimenting and still building up their mod list, a flash tune will need to be changed out on multiple occasions. I personally ran the Procede Rev II, however the JB3 2.0 will offer the other end of the spectrum price range as well as comparable features on a feature per dollar basis:

Procede - http://vishnutuning.com/
JB3 - http://www.burgertuning.com/

4. FMIC. The reason for this superceding downpipes and exhaust is due to the fact that exhaust provides negligible gains for the cost associated and this is typcially motivated by the aggressive exhaust note rather than performance. FMIC is a sure-fire way to increase power and fight off ignition retard, especially for those of us in hot environments. Upgraded turbos, exhaust, intake, LSD etc will have very little benefit to your car if you are pulling timing left and right from IAT's. I think Rob Beck at RB Turbo can agree with me here. I ran the AMS FMIC, the cast end tanks and MOREOVER the 3" FMIC outlet which can be extended all the way to the throttle body as well as light weight design that certainly doesn't overly stress the stock mounting points made it my personal choice. The Helix which currently appears to fend off heat-soak the most efficiently is definitely one great recommendation to analyze. This is the most comprehensive and FREELY discussed threads regarding the performance/price options for inter-coolers:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=295153

5. Catalytic Converter Deletes. In the form of mid pipes or downpipes, to me it personally doesn't matter. The removal of the catalysts will in most every situation provide more performance gains than the girth increase in pipe capacity/diameter or supposed flow gains from 'superior welds'. No one currently in business offers a mid pipe for the N54 although I currently do have a custom setup for sale, this can be overcome by way of a full cat-back exhaust. The ID from the downpipes to midpipes should also be asked before purchasing as there has been news of a LARGE margin of difference that will certainly cause turbulence and potentially negate some gains. Commonly respected vendors with downpipe offerings include ar design, CP-E, Macht Schnell:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=322185
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=316974
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=256081

6. Methanol/Water Injection/Monitoring system. At this point you can consider yourself at the first major modding milestone, with the exception of an intake(which in my opinion is simply far too overrated. Go buy a drop in filter if you have to buy something and have one less warranty issue). You will want to run high boost/advanced ignition maps and will therefore benefit most from 'poor man's race gas' along with added cooling benefits and flexibility of running it when you please. Methanol injection can be a basic setup or very quickly it can become a complicated procedure and very detailed. Proper gauges and safety systems are always recommended with these installs. All too often I read threads discussing flow issues or "I ran meth but I can't tell if its working?!". A simple gauge will tell you the answer. Labonte is the provider of Procede tuner's setups, however a mix and match of several components can be used in combination to get the setup you see fit. Coolingmist is said to provide the same 0v-5v signal providing progressive mapping with procede users, also integrated and supported well with the JB3 tune. The JB3 is currently more of an open format as it stands when it comes to methanol IMO and other makes such as Snow Performance and Devils Own can likely just as easily be fitted to this tune. Procede users should try to stay with the Labonte IFS-10 or IF-30 fail-safe unit with their tunes for the progressive methanol mapping features or better yet just go with the entire Vishnu Methanol system. Outside of the fail-safe other components should be more than compatible. Item to debunk: Methanol will NOT corrode your block when used properly. Methanol DOES, however, increase your oil change intervals.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29733
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=328015
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=351188

7. Your power levels are no longer realistic without better traction, LSD/BBK/Suspension/Wheels(if not already equipped) and can no longer wait to be upgraded. I see all too many people lowering their cars for show. I'm certainly not disagreeing with the appearance improvement, however suspension is primarily for traction and handling performance. This applies to the people with KWV3's who don't know how to adjust the dampers or never have. Raise your hand if you owned and sold your adjustable damping suspension and never even played around with the settings for a legitimate reason(ie. track). Quaife and Wavetrac are immediately in mind. Do not forget however, the way they operate mechanically is different, so research the difference and use that information to make that judgment based off of your driving type.

8. Turbos. Tuning with methanol and race fuel with great traction merits the last major milestone in performance modifications outside of short/long block work. I'm a supporter of RB Turbos at the moment and believe that everyone should at least consider it an option. Currently I can't recommend a better bang for buck turbo upgrade coming from a maker who has been so actively involved DIRECTLY with its buyers. For those looking for a less aggressive approach, EPL has a quite reasonable offering however the price isn't quite in line with the potential gains from RB Turbos, assuming all is well.

9. Oil/Water Cooling/Clutch. If you don't have a stock oil-cooler, You have already waited too long to add one. There is a retrofit kit available as well as an upgraded oil-cooling kit provided by a number of vendors, CP-E and ar design come to mind immediately. ar design has also stepped up and has begun offering upgraded water cooling via radiator, which is quite attractive for the ATX drivers as the transmission cooler is integrated with the radiator. By the way, the BMW Electric Performance Steering Wheel is the only known OEM method of displaying the water temperature levels. This is also the known threshold for MTX drivers and their stock clutch and ClutchMasters has seen a good review thus far:

Oil Cooler: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...hlight=cooling
Water/Tranny Cooler: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=384954
Clutch Masters: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=366681

10. Cams/Further Head work/Upgraded fuel system/Shortblock/weight reduction/etc. This bit is a lot more complicated, enormous amounts of control by the DME causes problems with creating aggressive cams and there are a lot of expectations being made by the DME in the way of expected flow rates in the headwork and countless other things I'm certainly not knowledgeable about. Quality of port/bore jobs can be different in many ways and will likely create varying results and be slightly difficult to dial in tuning wise. CPE is currently working on an upgrade path to our fueling situation which hopefully will appear sooner rather than later... In good form of course.

11. Tints/Angel Eyes/Intake/Chargepipe/Bov/DV's/LED's/Lisence Plate frames/Pedals/Vinyl/Lucky Dice/etc Do this stuff when you're bored. otherwise you aren't on my 'hardcore' list

[klipseracer]

Thanks to everyone who provided above linked information and threads/DIY/Reviews. namely Former(you rich b@stard).

[Amir87]

Very good info.

[TriniJots]

sticky.

[onefastman]

Nice but you forgot the clutch, with big turbos you will need it.

I am sorry to see you go man.

[dzenno]

STICKY THIS! I'm sick and tired of this same question...must be the most discussed topic here klips, respect!

[forza1976]

Originally Posted by dzenno

STICKY THIS! I'm sick and tired of this same question...must be the most discussed topic here klips, respect!

And what makes you think that even if it's "stickied" newbies won't still ask that question? LOL

OP, nice post... But you have way too much time on your hands

[coolingmist]

This is nice for users.

If you dont mind I would like to correct this one part:

6. Methanol/Water Injection/Monitoring system. Procede users should try to stay with the Labonte IFS-10 or IF-30 fail-safe unit with their tunes for the progressive methanol mapping features. Outside of the fail-safe other components should be more than compatible.

Just want to clarify that the CMGS FS and VC2 FS will do progressive flow mapping with the Procede and will also do the map switching with the Jb3. The CMGS FS and VC2 FS is 100% compatible with the procede in this manner. CMGS/VC2 give the identical output that the labonte unit does, so the procede is blind to which controller is used.

As it stands today, Coolingmist CMGS/VC2 are the only failsafes on the market that will work progressive flow mapping with the Procede AND map switching for the Jb3. This is important for customers to be aware because not only do you have the ability to switch maps on all of the major tunes, but since CMGS is a boost gauge as well, it gives the customer another important feature.

I just wanted to clarify for customers, so they understand they do have a choice. Not everyone is aware of this yet

CM

[Clap135]

Thats a nice option to have, however the labonte failsafe is cheaper and the procede takes care of the rest.

[vasillalov]

Good info and a great thread for newbies. It definitely confirms that I've done my research and I am on the right track...

[coolingmist]

Originally Posted by Clap135

Thats a nice option to have, however the labonte failsafe is cheaper and the procede takes care of the rest.

the labonte failsafe requires the labonte controller to work. Our failsafe and progressive controller all one unit. When you add all of that together prices are similiar. Also, if you factor in the flow display ours is less by quite a bit. Sorry to take off topic OP.

[huyner328]

Nice write-up, thanks for the time and effort.

[Clap135]

Originally Posted by coolingmist

the labonte failsafe requires the labonte controller to work. Our failsafe and progressive controller all one unit. When you add all of that together prices are similiar. Also, if you factor in the flow display ours is less by quite a bit. Sorry to take off topic OP.

I am running the failsafe without the controller. So I will have to disagree with your statement. As for flow display, thats what the procede is for.

[cstavaru]

I don't agree with the oil catch can. No one has proven that the OCC eliminates the oil buildups in the intake piping, maybe reducing it a bit...

My order would be:

1. Boost gauge
2. Exhaust
3. Intake
4. Tune
5. Intercooler
6. Downpipes

[yandy]

Nice list, thanks for taking the time.

[midlife]

Great info !

I have most everything u mentioned (and I am wait listed on the first batch of rb turbos):
and I basically agree with everything you said.
One small exception is I would put non cat dps a bit higher as far as importance and hp gains.

Great work and especially helpful for the newbies.

[BSM Bimmer]

The only thing that I see as being in the wrong order is the oil cooling. You shouldn't even consider upgraded turbos without upgrading it as our cars already run excessively hot, and their is no way our crappy stock oil coolers will hold up will to that kind of power/heat being created from 500hp

[Clap135]

ACtually turbo upgrades should run cooler then stockers at the same psi

[s.myrr]

Nice write up!

[Kroy]

Great list OP. Maybe you'll save a newb or two from posting a thread asking the same questions. But then again, maybe not. I enjoyed the read just the same.

[marcel b]

Originally Posted by cstavaru

I don't agree with the oil catch can. No one has proven that the OCC eliminates the oil buildups in the intake piping, maybe reducing it a bit...

My order would be:

1. Boost gauge
2. Exhaust
3. Intake
4. Tune
5. Intercooler
6. Downpipes

have the same opinion regarding oil catch can. Just removed my FMIC and after 20.000 miles it was clean. My shop (who is setting up turbo race cars) says catch can not needed at all. Maybe I have no issue as I am not driving short distances, being nice to my car, and using good fuel (almost always vpower 100).

Regarding the list. The list is focused on power and straight line speed. For me this has the lowest priority. For me handling first, then cooling, then additional power. Power doesn't bring me anything on a curvy road.

So I would start with:
1. Suspension (M3 parts / KW V3 / ARB)
2. Tires (non-runflat for street, track tires for the track)
3. LSD
4. FMIC
5. Oil cooler (additional or Setrab replacing standard cooler)
6. Exhaust (even if it is for the sound only)
7. Seats (recaro / BMW Performance)
8. power tunes if needed

As long as you do not intend to really start playing with tunes, why would you start with a boost gauge...

[jcarlucci1]

Intake #11? Bad info.. should certainly come before dp's + Ic's given the price and gains.