[DaZuc]

Had the some of these issues. I used the stock lower chargepipe and had 30ff for like 2 weeks because I needed another clamp.

Those Home Depot clamps don't hold up with boost

7" VRSF

[dbmw335]

So I finally installed the 5" Stepped VRSF and lower pipe today. Here is my experience - I hope it helps others...

First off: my car is a 2008 E93 with a ER Charge pipe and BOV, stock air filter.

After watching multiple Youtube videos on installing other Intercoolers (the one for HPF by John (two parts) was excellent with good tips (

), I took the plunge.

I assembled my tools (T20, T30, 8mm socket, 10mm socket), saftey glasses (very important as stuff will fall while you are under the car) and gloves.

First - I checked that the VRSF intercooler was undamaged and came with all the pieces (four clamps, two screws with rubber spacing washers, lower charge pipe (I choose to install that), two rubber reducer/expander tubes tubes (one curved, one straight) and intercooler. All pieces were present and packed very nicely.

I put the car up on ramps and removed the lower engine cover, working my way from front to back (as the front will stay in place under the front bumper). All bolts were 8mm (~ 16 - I lost count) with two 10mm nuts at the very back. (Note that there are two air deflectors held with three screws on my E93 - they need to be removed). I then slid the cover off and moved it out of the way.

I removed the air diverter attached to the original intercooler (watch out there is a lot of debris captured in there, unhooked the clamps to the inlet and outlet (BMW quick disconnect wire hook - 1:37 in the video), removed the two screws holding the intercooler in place (T20) and out it dropped. It is very light and not substantial.

I then used the trick found that you can break the seamless factory clamp on the inlet (above the accordion pipe (passenger side of car) and the outlet (at the end of the lower charge pipe - driver side of car) using a screw driver and prying at the seam. If you feel around the factory clamp you will feel a slight ridge. Use your screwdriver to pry on the edge at this point - it will snap and you can peel them off.

At this point I had to figure out how to remove the factory lower charge pipe. It's a bit of a challenge as there is a clamp that is glued to the original charge pipe that does not allow it to rotate out freely. I ended up removing my air box and the air intake to get some more room. I also ended up loosening up (not removing) my upper charge pipe to get the desired clearance needed. This step was not hard - just took a lot of time to figure out the right way to get the old pipe out, and the new pipe in. Once removed, I installed the replacement lower charge pipe and attached it to the upper charge pipe. I removed the old pipe from the top of the car, and inserted the new pipe from the bottom of the car.

I then put on the lower charge pipe reducer tube (the one with the bend) and clamped it down. Be sure to get the tube over the ridge and clamp behind it with enough room to have the clamp fully cover the rubber. A deep socket or box-end ratchet works great and it is a 10mm nut. There is not a lot of room so it took a while to tighten properly.

I them put on the expansion rubber connecting tube to the inlet and clamped that down. There is more room here so it was easy.

Now I was ready for the intercooler! Now my research talked about a small plastic part that would interfere with the intercooler fitment. I did not think that I would know what was referred to when working - but it was obvious to see. There is an triangle shaped plastic part that is on the passenger side that needs to be removed. I used a hand hacksaw to make the first cut and a pliers to snap the piece off.

I them put the clamps loosely on the intake and outlet rubber connector pipes, made sure that the rubber seal piece did not come off the radiator (6:54 in the video), and slid the new intercooler in. Ok, I had to nudge and jostle is a bit, holding it up with one hand while pulling back the front bumper so it would slide up. I also had one of the screws that came with the intercooler in my mouth so that I could tighten it enough to hold in place while I moved to the other side. I tried to fit it up so that the tube slid into the intercooler and had to use a screw driver to be sure that the tube slid over properly. I did this carefully so that the rubber would not tear!

Once everything was in place, I clamped down the intercooler, inserted the rubber spacers and tightened the intercooler down. I then double checked all the connections to be sure they were on properly with the right overlap and the clamps were tight. I then tightened up the upper charge pipe and reinstalled the airbox and air inlet.

Satisfied that everything was in - I started her up and gave here a few revs to be sure that there were no leaks or CELs. Everything was good so I put the engine cover back on (slide the front in first, then go to the back and put in the two 10mm nuts and one screw to keep it in place. Now replace all screws. Replace the two air diverters.

I then packed up the original parts, put the tools away and took her out for a test drive. I am always a little nervous on the first test drive - but she responded very well!

I hope this helps someone else out. The one key for me was having a ratcheting open end box wrench (10mm) as it made tightening the lower charge pipe clamp for the reducing pipe much easier. The replacing of the lower charge pipe was a challenge - but one that ultimately was glad I did. The factory lower charge pipe is quite beefy for a plastic pipe but it does have a few weird bends.

Now to watch the Monte Carlo F1 Qualifying!

[JLIT]

As for as the elbow that I've been stuck using (factory one that comes off lower cp), can anyone suggest their setup from driver side (cold side). It recently tore and I'd like to here other configurations that have worked before ordering my own silicone hoses/t-clamps etc.

[HCMW Adam]

I installed the 5" stepped IC and lower charge pipe with relatively little hassle. It took a while and I had to wrestle with it. Once tight, everything went where it was supposed to. My biggest problem was trying to put the left elbow on the right side. Once I figured that out it fit correctly.

I would like better hose clamps. So far the provided ones are not a problem.

[studio54]

Originally Posted by dbmw335

So I finally installed the 5" Stepped VRSF and lower pipe today. Here is my experience - I hope it helps others...

First off: my car is a 2008 E93 with a ER Charge pipe and BOV, stock air filter.

After watching multiple Youtube videos on installing other Intercoolers (the one for HPF by John (two parts) was excellent with good tips (

), I took the plunge.

I assembled my tools (T20, T30, 8mm socket, 10mm socket), saftey glasses (very important as stuff will fall while you are under the car) and gloves.

First - I checked that the VRSF intercooler was undamaged and came with all the pieces (four clamps, two screws with rubber spacing washers, lower charge pipe (I choose to install that), two rubber reducer/expander tubes tubes (one curved, one straight) and intercooler. All pieces were present and packed very nicely.

I put the car up on ramps and removed the lower engine cover, working my way from front to back (as the front will stay in place under the front bumper). All bolts were 8mm (~ 16 - I lost count) with two 10mm nuts at the very back. (Note that there are two air deflectors held with three screws on my E93 - they need to be removed). I then slid the cover off and moved it out of the way.

I removed the air diverter attached to the original intercooler (watch out there is a lot of debris captured in there, unhooked the clamps to the inlet and outlet (BMW quick disconnect wire hook - 1:37 in the video), removed the two screws holding the intercooler in place (T20) and out it dropped. It is very light and not substantial.

I then used the trick found that you can break the seamless factory clamp on the inlet (above the accordion pipe (passenger side of car) and the outlet (at the end of the lower charge pipe - driver side of car) using a screw driver and prying at the seam. If you feel around the factory clamp you will feel a slight ridge. Use your screwdriver to pry on the edge at this point - it will snap and you can peel them off.

At this point I had to figure out how to remove the factory lower charge pipe. It's a bit of a challenge as there is a clamp that is glued to the original charge pipe that does not allow it to rotate out freely. I ended up removing my air box and the air intake to get some more room. I also ended up loosening up (not removing) my upper charge pipe to get the desired clearance needed. This step was not hard - just took a lot of time to figure out the right way to get the old pipe out, and the new pipe in. Once removed, I installed the replacement lower charge pipe and attached it to the upper charge pipe. I removed the old pipe from the top of the car, and inserted the new pipe from the bottom of the car.

I then put on the lower charge pipe reducer tube (the one with the bend) and clamped it down. Be sure to get the tube over the ridge and clamp behind it with enough room to have the clamp fully cover the rubber. A deep socket or box-end ratchet works great and it is a 10mm nut. There is not a lot of room so it took a while to tighten properly.

I them put on the expansion rubber connecting tube to the inlet and clamped that down. There is more room here so it was easy.

Now I was ready for the intercooler! Now my research talked about a small plastic part that would interfere with the intercooler fitment. I did not think that I would know what was referred to when working - but it was obvious to see. There is an triangle shaped plastic part that is on the passenger side that needs to be removed. I used a hand hacksaw to make the first cut and a pliers to snap the piece off.

I them put the clamps loosely on the intake and outlet rubber connector pipes, made sure that the rubber seal piece did not come off the radiator (6:54 in the video), and slid the new intercooler in. Ok, I had to nudge and jostle is a bit, holding it up with one hand while pulling back the front bumper so it would slide up. I also had one of the screws that came with the intercooler in my mouth so that I could tighten it enough to hold in place while I moved to the other side. I tried to fit it up so that the tube slid into the intercooler and had to use a screw driver to be sure that the tube slid over properly. I did this carefully so that the rubber would not tear!

Once everything was in place, I clamped down the intercooler, inserted the rubber spacers and tightened the intercooler down. I then double checked all the connections to be sure they were on properly with the right overlap and the clamps were tight. I then tightened up the upper charge pipe and reinstalled the airbox and air inlet.

Satisfied that everything was in - I started her up and gave here a few revs to be sure that there were no leaks or CELs. Everything was good so I put the engine cover back on (slide the front in first, then go to the back and put in the two 10mm nuts and one screw to keep it in place. Now replace all screws. Replace the two air diverters.

I then packed up the original parts, put the tools away and took her out for a test drive. I am always a little nervous on the first test drive - but she responded very well!

I hope this helps someone else out. The one key for me was having a ratcheting open end box wrench (10mm) as it made tightening the lower charge pipe clamp for the reducing pipe much easier. The replacing of the lower charge pipe was a challenge - but one that ultimately was glad I did. The factory lower charge pipe is quite beefy for a plastic pipe but it does have a few weird bends.

Now to watch the Monte Carlo F1 Qualifying!

This should be printed as instructions, thanks

This thing (10mm, under 10$) :



is your best friend to tight the clamps or it can take a lot of time, especialy in such small places
(i didn't test road yet so i hope i tighten enough mines)

Also do not hesitate to completey unbolt the T clamps to place them correctly on the silicone couplers.

A scissor jack is a good help too to move up slowly the intercooler from the ground to its place if you are alone, i ended up needing someone else to help me slide the intercooler in the couplers.
(you can place a piece of wood between the intercooler and the jack to avoid some scratches under the intercooler)

I added a bit of engine oil with my finger in the couplers and on the ends of the tanks, it made them slide easier.

Last thing is the mounts (two philips head bolt with two rubber washer) i tigthen them with all the force i can, normal hex head would have been better in my opinion to tight them with some better force, i also hope it will handle the additionnal weight of the fmic compared to the stock one which is very light.

These two philips head bolt seems to have the same size as stock ones (torx) , finally it look it's shorter when you had the two washer rubber, but it's probably a tiny bit thickier also.

I will report after road testing

[WindUp]

I love VRSF stuff, but I think it's hilarious that they charge $15 for a stencil to put their logo on their product. Why not just throw a paper stencil in every intercooler box and get free advertising?

[Rule1977]

Originally Posted by WindUp

I love VRSF stuff, but I think it's hilarious that they charge $15 for a stencil to put their logo on their product. Why not just throw a paper stencil in every intercooler box and get free advertising?

+1

[iqraceworks]

For the little extra effort it would take to put some instructions in the box.....I'm shocked that more aftermarket companies don't do that. What's it cost..an extra buckle to put some instructions in the box?

[Tiago@VRSF]

Originally Posted by WindUp

I love VRSF stuff, but I think it's hilarious that they charge $15 for a stencil to put their logo on their product. Why not just throw a paper stencil in every intercooler box and get free advertising?

The companies that include advertising materials package them into the price involuntarily and a lot of folks simply don't use the stencils which means they're paying for something they aren't going to use.

With that said, we often provide the stencil for free for customers who e-mail us with their order numbers

In regards to instructions, we don't include them simply because we have a dozen youtube videos with detailed write ups.

[dcorn]

Originally Posted by Tiago@VRSF

In regards to instructions, we don't include them simply because we have a dozen youtube videos with detailed write ups.

It's one thing if you put a video on youtube of you guys doing a step by step installation of your product. Show the ins and outs of exactly what goes where, what clamps need to be cut, how couplers should be installed, order of operations for ease of use. I'd almost rather have that than a piece of paper with pictures. It's cool even if you provided discounted parts to a shop or person that would make the video for you.

But instead, it sounds like you are saying that there are crowdsourced videos and DIYs of people installing your products. Those were made because there were no instructions in the box, so someone figured it out on their own and they didn't want others to go through the same hassle.

Also, it would be very helpful if your response to all of these "how to I install VRSF part XXX" threads and comments was "here is a link to some helpful DIY videos of how to install our products". But no, you just and say "lol should have contacted us before the install if you suck at working on cars". I'm a mechanical engineer and I still want instructions of how to install a part just in case I miss a little nuance that I might interpret differently than the designer. It's insanely frustrating to get halfway through an install and hit a roadblock that could have easily been solved with a few instructions, especially when some steps are non-reversible like cutting clamps.

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

There are other companies that offer instructions with their products, they just cost more.

[b92]

Originally Posted by dcorn

It's one thing if you put a video on youtube of you guys doing a step by step installation of your product. Show the ins and outs of exactly what goes where, what clamps need to be cut, how couplers should be installed, order of operations for ease of use. I'd almost rather have that than a piece of paper with pictures. It's cool even if you provided discounted parts to a shop or person that would make the video for you.

But instead, it sounds like you are saying that there are crowdsourced videos and DIYs of people installing your products. Those were made because there were no instructions in the box, so someone figured it out on their own and they didn't want others to go through the same hassle.

Also, it would be very helpful if your response to all of these "how to I install VRSF part XXX" threads and comments was "here is a link to some helpful DIY videos of how to install our products". But no, you just and say "lol should have contacted us before the install if you suck at working on cars". I'm a mechanical engineer and I still want instructions of how to install a part just in case I miss a little nuance that I might interpret differently than the designer. It's insanely frustrating to get halfway through an install and hit a roadblock that could have easily been solved with a few instructions, especially when some steps are non-reversible like cutting clamps.

You're acting like it's difficult to install an intercooler. Literally two connections and a couple bolts. You should leave it to professionals if you can't handle that, or shop for car parts at IKEA.

[dcorn]

Originally Posted by b92

You're acting like it's difficult to install an intercooler. Literally two connections and a couple bolts. You should leave it to professionals if you can't handle that, or shop for car parts at IKEA.

Even Ikea type instructions would be helpful here.

You're right, as car part installs go, the E90 IC isn't that tough. But based on the number of threads on this forum asking about a few specifics of the VRSF part or wrong sized accessories, it probably would have been a decent idea to clear up some of those issues.

It'd be really easy for VRSF to search youtube, find the best install vids of their products (since they are already made by others), and post a link on each product page on their website. I bet that 15 minutes worth of work would have saved a ton of customer hassle and bad reviews on forums. But what do I know?

[N54rules]

Originally Posted by dcorn

It's one thing if you put a video on youtube of you guys doing a step by step installation of your product. Show the ins and outs of exactly what goes where, what clamps need to be cut, how couplers should be installed, order of operations for ease of use. I'd almost rather have that than a piece of paper with pictures. It's cool even if you provided discounted parts to a shop or person that would make the video for you.

But instead, it sounds like you are saying that there are crowdsourced videos and DIYs of people installing your products. Those were made because there were no instructions in the box, so someone figured it out on their own and they didn't want others to go through the same hassle.

Also, it would be very helpful if your response to all of these "how to I install VRSF part XXX" threads and comments was "here is a link to some helpful DIY videos of how to install our products". But no, you just and say "lol should have contacted us before the install if you suck at working on cars". I'm a mechanical engineer and I still want instructions of how to install a part just in case I miss a little nuance that I might interpret differently than the designer. It's insanely frustrating to get halfway through an install and hit a roadblock that could have easily been solved with a few instructions, especially when some steps are non-reversible like cutting clamps.

+1

same experience, had to stop and do more 'research' before cutting clamps. not sure I'll give vrsf any more of my $ since, as was stated before, there are lots of parts manufacturers out there. I did check their site for any install info before purchase along with doing searches and watching videos; guess I happened to be one of the ones who didn't find the clamp cutting info before I started.

[Jeef]

it's been 10+ years and no install guide but a lot of people don't complain I mean you get what you get for cheap product. Go off forum posts and other experiences for help or take it to a professional.

If you don't realize you need to remove a clamp to utilize the new silicone connecting piece then that's on you.... doesn't matter about your educational background if you can't mock things up and see there is no possible way to use the silicone couplers without the OEM piping removed.

[Baldfox157]

Pretty good info in here. Real close to VRSF install.
https://www.fabspeed.com/templates/_...structions.pdf

[N54Caden]

If they don't come with instructions I think that means leave to someone that knows how... incorrectly installing alot of things can lead to catastrophic failure which is a risk me and alot of people wont take. in all seriousness you probably
dont even need an upgraded intercooler, ive ran stage 2+ E30 for at least a year and a half now on a stock intercooler and i was putting more power down than my friend on the same tune but with a upgraded intercooler (e90).
especially a 7" is not needed under 500hp, the pressure drop is significant enough to reduce the flow.i also have the dual cone filters and live in california so enventually my air temps will rise and heat soak but when i drive it in colder weather it is fine. my turbos have started to smoke at idle so my pure600's should be here this week. i am paying someone to install them aswell lol since i trust them and not myself since i have never done them before, and i dont have the time to do it in 2 days

[oVeRdOsE.]

Originally Posted by N54Caden

If they don't come with instructions I think that means leave to someone that knows how... incorrectly installing alot of things can lead to catastrophic failure which is a risk me and alot of people wont take. in all seriousness you probably
dont even need an upgraded intercooler, ive ran stage 2+ E30 for at least a year and a half now on a stock intercooler and i was putting more power down than my friend on the same tune but with a upgraded intercooler (e90).
especially a 7" is not needed under 500hp, the pressure drop is significant enough to reduce the flow.i also have the dual cone filters and live in california so enventually my air temps will rise and heat soak but when i drive it in colder weather it is fine. my turbos have started to smoke at idle so my pure600's should be here this week. i am paying someone to install them aswell lol since i trust them and not myself since i have never done them before, and i dont have the time to do it in 2 days

strong 1st post on a 2yo last post

Do you have log to prove your point. Looks like more subjective opinion than objective...

Did you considered environmental condition, elevation, %RH, T°avg, type of drivin (drag, street, track, time attack, drift), bhp or whp, etc ?
I dont have time, but it's basic thermodynamic, in the past I already did a calculation for a 1st gen MX5, the owner wanted a straight turbo connection, no intercooler, so he will benefit of the no lag for street use. I've calcul 5.5psi max to not destroy this 1.6L, and it worked for many miles.

I do believe most people will never benefit of a huge fmic, but knowing a lot of issues on the N54 is due to heat, this can help for sure.

Also the price is not crazy. If it was uber expensive, water/meth should be better for the price.