[trbizwiz]

No, mine never leaked. I decided not to retorque.
I was very tedious about going around the VC with an inspection mirror and checking the gasket fitment. I had to pull it off and refit it three times during initial installation. It was no fun, but there are several places that give you trouble during the fitment stage that could cause potential leaks.
Fitment would be far easier with the injectors out. But I understand taking the injectors out is sort of s big deal too because of some compressed parts.

[vaska85]

Most dissapointing fact is that I can never trace the leaking spot. Id rather brake the VC so that i could avoid this misterious problem.

[trbizwiz]

Originally Posted by vaska85

Most dissapointing fact is that I can never trace the leaking spot. Id rather brake the VC so that i could avoid this misterious problem.

My issues were all towards the back. The back passenger corner, and the back in the middle around the #6 injector. Those areas are hard to get properly seated and the back corner is hard to thread.
Once I got those properly done it all went great.
The #6 injector tends to grab the gasket and stretch it out of position.

Have you used an inspection mirror and completely traced the gasket all the way around the valve cover? Especially on the inner part of the VC around the injectors? It should have uniform compression all the way around.
I think an inspection mirror, and. Are full inspection is probably the most important part. It's sort of the measure once cut twice, measure twice cut ince philosophy of VC installation.

[vaska85]

Can inner parts affect the outer lower parts? Inner part seems ok. Even more oil is leaking on the heatshield than it used to. Im thinking of putting back my old cracked VC ))

[vaska85]

As I noticed this problem has been going around since so many years and has been asked by so many indivoduals. I am sure 99%of them has found the cure but sadly none of them shared how.

[vaska85]

Thanks trbizwiz anyway. I'll consider your advice.

[gptrilik]

I just put a new VC on and initially got significant white smoke coming up from the passenger side of the engine right above the downpipes \ turbo assembly.

I thought it was due to me spraying those downpipe bolts with PB Blaster every other day for a week or so. I did decide to wait on the downpipe changes until later so I could validate my other work (Injectors, plugs, Coils, Valve cover, OFHG, OCHG, Charge Pipe, FMIC, belt tensioner, alternator,OCC, all vent tubing minus rear turbo, walnut blasting of intake valves, and fluids change) Vehicle has been down for way way too long and I wanted to drive it..

First start was rough as you would expect, once the downpipes warmed up, some smoke started to come up. I wasn't surprised. It is just something I have to cycle the vehicle enough on for it to burn off but not keep it long enough on to run a risk for it lighting up. Not terribly concerned as it gave me time to figure out the plethora of codes coming up on a 335 that hasn't been started in 9 months.. (sensor connectors not pushed in fully on camshaft mostly)

At this point only errors still coming up are the FRM related ones partially due to not having the fogs plugged in but also some Low Beam \ High Beam errors. Those Low Beam \ High Beam ones are new to me. They seem to not affect the lights functionality so I will have to look into them later.

I put about 20 miles on the vehicle last night while it is still running stock code. Felt good. No major issues. I do still think I smell something faint still burning off from those downpipes. I will do a more thorough inspection of the area looking \ feeling for oil with an inspection mirror and possibly retorque the Valve Cover bolts or turn them an additional 1/4 turn as previously suggested.

I know when I torqued them I was thinking it was similar to a head where you start in the middle and circle your way out, tightening partially on every bolt so eventually after 2 or 3 laps you are up to full torque at all bolts.. I hope that isn't the cause of the occasional wisps of white smoke I see coming out of the engine bay..

gptrilik

[trbizwiz]

When I torqued, I started on the inner bolts and torqued in a criss cross pattern, all the way around. then I started on the outer bolts in a criss cross pattern all the way around.
I did a finger tight torque, then a little tighter torque.
My torque wrench would not click, so I just had to feel for it. Some folks said 1/4 past snug. I used my 1/4 inch ratchet, to keep the possibility of over torquing down.
I also made sure to visually inspect the gasket for uniform compression. Since it looks more like an o-ring, than gasket this was fairly evident to me.
I have zero leaks, and zero burning oil smell. I did have a little (smell) for the first hundred miles or so. But none now. That burnt oil smell was a bigger concern for me than a few drips on my drive.
I will be putting all the plastic back on soon, now that I have almost 1000 miles on it.

[BM335M]

Originally Posted by vaska85

As I noticed this problem has been going around since so many years and has been asked by so many indivoduals. I am sure 99%of them has found the cure but sadly none of them shared how.

Did you mange to find the leak? I have the same exact leak on mine and im in the process of replacing the vc with a brand new one, at the same time im doing the ofh and ofc gaskets.
Im afraid that this might not fix it as the leak must be coming from somewhere else.
If it helps, I did notice a pool of oil around the outer valve cover bolts near the 5th injector when I was removing the old vc. Seems to be leaking around here and onto the heat shield. Check the filler cap and see if its leaking from there but it must be the gasket there is no place oil could come from otherwise.

[trbizwiz]

When you seat your new valve cover there are a number of places that will catch the gasket and pull it out of place. I suspect this is a very big part of leaks after installation. Prior to putting any bolts back in, check the gasket seat all the way around the cover. This will require a drop light, an inspection mirror, and a limber body willing to perform all sorts of odd contortions. But if you entirely inspect the entire perimeter of the inner and outer portions of the valve cover. You should find any areas where The gasket became unseated. Unless you are very talented or lucky, you will snag some part of the gasket and pull it loose from the cover in some small area.
It could be avoided if you could entirely remove all the wiring and hoses, but you would have to dissemble half the car to do that.
I used bungees to hold them out of the way as best I could.

[86rexer]

Clean , replace your VANOS solenoids since accessing them is wide open at the time you swap out gasket

Just sayin... great write up BTW

Cheers

[vaska85]

A little background of this story is that I changed both the VC and the VCG. VC is original MAHLE and the VCG unknown (came with the VC). The inner parts were OK but outer lower part (passenger side) was leaking. If you read my above posts you will have more idea.
So, I had no time to visit my mechanic because of the holiday times etc... But I drove about 300 highway miles. First there was a huge amount of oil on the heat shield. I washed away the dirt, and on the way home it gradually stopped. Now all clean. 0 leaks!!! I really have no idea what happened.

My advice to you is that If I was about to change my VC(G) I'd definitely remove the whole heat shield and the rear turbo intake bolts (see the images) so that I'd thoroughly inspect the gasket position in the hard to reach areas with a mirror or snake camera. +I'd use glycerin on the contact surfaces.

Good luck and take your time. Better postpone than be in hurry.

[BM335M]

I had the same problem few days ago. New VC with VCG and oil was still pooling up on the heat shield after install. What i did is I cleaned it, went for a drive checked the gasket with mirror and surprisingly noticed oil was coming from the heat shield itself.

Its the old oil from the previous leak pressed in between the heat shield metal as the heat shield is made from two thin metal plates pressed together. The old oil accumulates in between the metal and comes up again until it is fully burned off.

[njmania25]

guys, i've been going at this probably a good 5 hours...i'm at the point of considering having the car towed to my indy BMW shop with my tail between my legs...

I've followed all the steps and I have removed all the screws...however, I cannot budge the damn thing....whenever I get a screwdriver or puddy knife in there and give it a little upward force, i start to hear cracking...i'm replacing the VC so I guess I don't care...but damn, I've worked really hard and don't even have the new VC on yet!!!

One other point, for the life of me, I cannot get the damn spark plug guides out...is that why i cannot get the cover off???

plus i scratched the front bumper by accident...calling it a night, but any pointers, tips, etc to get the cover off is much appreciated, plus some words of encouragement!!!

[njmania25]

Sometimes it helps to just walk away I started reading and looking at more videos and I realized I never loose in the ground studs. DOH! But I don't have a socket that deep. Any suggestions?

[trbizwiz]

You do not need a socket that deep. Just get your deepest socket and slip it over the ground stud. The stud will come part way through the opening that your extension goes in. But there will be enough room for your extension to go in and turn the socket. It just won't go in far enough to lock. You will need to keep some downward pressure on the ratchet in order to keep it engaged with the socket.
Good luck, you're getting very close.
Putting the new VC on is equally challenging, because the wires and hoses are in the way and make getting it lined up, very tedious. Just be diligent and use bungee cords to hold everything out of the way.

[Matthewricha]

Originally Posted by njmania25

guys, i've been going at this probably a good 5 hours...i'm at the point of considering having the car towed to my indy BMW shop with my tail between my legs...

I've followed all the steps and I have removed all the screws...however, I cannot budge the damn thing....whenever I get a screwdriver or puddy knife in there and give it a little upward force, i start to hear cracking...i'm replacing the VC so I guess I don't care...but damn, I've worked really hard and don't even have the new VC on yet!!!

One other point, for the life of me, I cannot get the damn spark plug guides out...is that why i cannot get the cover off???

plus i scratched the front bumper by accident...calling it a night, but any pointers, tips, etc to get the cover off is much appreciated, plus some words of encouragement!!!

I feel for you! did you get it sorted in the end?

I replaced my VC June 2016 on my 2006 335i and in first attempt i had an bad oil leak. I was gutted.. had to turn around from travelling to work and sort it. Did it a second time and mostly ok, although a year later and I now have slight oil leaks. All I can say is, you must use new bolts!! I have just fitted an RB External PCV system with a catch can and I now intend to tap the vacuum holes in the head to prevent vacuum leaks in the future. I highly recommend this to prevent pressurizing the crank case again which can cause leaks.

Some say this is an easy job, but in all honesty I think it is reasonably difficult. the biggest issue was trying to not let the new gasket fall down when trying to fit the valve cover. Has anyone used gasket sealant on theirs? I didn't last year, but am wondering if I should have done now.

[trbizwiz]

Originally Posted by Matthewricha

I feel for you! did you get it sorted in the end?

I replaced my VC June 2016 on my 2006 335i and in first attempt i had an bad oil leak. I was gutted.. had to turn around from travelling to work and sort it. Did it a second time and mostly ok, although a year later and I now have slight oil leaks. All I can say is, you must use new bolts!! I have just fitted an RB External PCV system with a catch can and I now intend to tap the vacuum holes in the head to prevent vacuum leaks in the future. I highly recommend this to prevent pressurizing the crank case again which can cause leaks.

Some say this is an easy job, but in all honesty I think it is reasonably difficult. the biggest issue was trying to not let the new gasket fall down when trying to fit the valve cover. Has anyone used gasket sealant on theirs? I didn't last year, but am wondering if I should have done now.

I replaced the valve cover and gasket, with a combo I bought from ECS tuning. I guess because the VC was new, I did not have issues with the gasket falling out. I did have issues with catching the gasket on things as I tried to place the VC on the head. Those injectors are pesky to work around among other things.

[E90B]

When I replaced the vcg on my X5, I bought an inexpensive mirror that included a small LED light on its face. That comes in very handy for tight-space inspections

[jason_car_guy]

Originally Posted by njmania25

guys, i've been going at this probably a good 5 hours...i'm at the point of considering having the car towed to my indy BMW shop with my tail between my legs...

I've followed all the steps and I have removed all the screws...however, I cannot budge the damn thing....whenever I get a screwdriver or puddy knife in there and give it a little upward force, i start to hear cracking...i'm replacing the VC so I guess I don't care...but damn, I've worked really hard and don't even have the new VC on yet!!!

One other point, for the life of me, I cannot get the damn spark plug guides out...is that why i cannot get the cover off???

plus i scratched the front bumper by accident...calling it a night, but any pointers, tips, etc to get the cover off is much appreciated, plus some words of encouragement!!!

FYI - I used a rubber mallet to dislodge mine after removing the bolts. I replaced the entire valve cover so I wasn't worried about damage.

[Donutz]

To remove the spark plug guides use needle nose pliers that are angled. Look where the guides are split and you'll see 2 small holes. Stick your pliers in the holes and squeeze them together gently, then lift the guides out.

[ATLIEN]

My valve cover gasket is bad and leaking onto the exhaust to the point that I am concerned about a fire hazard. I've got about 95k miles on my car and have been working from home for the past 6 months so I have not really driven it much in that time and it seems like the smoking problem has gotten worse with it being idle so often.

I am planning on doing the DIY as the cheapest I can get the gasket replaced is $1k. Not terrible I assume but for a topside repair I think I can give it a go. I am going to go ahead and replace the entire valve cover because with my bad luck it's cracked or i'll end up breaking something. My question for those that have replaced the valve cover- did you find any improvements with the car when you replaced the valve cover? Better idling, smoother acceleration, etc? Lastly, can anyone recommend a decent torque wrench for the job. I've got a cheap one but for this job I am not taking any chances.