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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > BMW E90/E92/E93 3-series General Forums > Regional Forums > UK > DPF Cleaner (Additive)



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      02-21-2012, 03:37 PM   #1
Danny.B.
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DPF Cleaner (Additive)

Hi Peeps!

Me again and the dreaded DPF Light!

has anyone tried using DPF cleaner additive that you add to a tank of fuel to see if this solves a problem?

http://www.camskill.co.uk/m1b13s4401...-_400ml_/RS_GB
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      02-21-2012, 03:45 PM   #2
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Fuel cap says "No additives", so I couldn't advise or endorse.
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      02-21-2012, 03:46 PM   #3
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Although, saying that, I hold Forte products in high regard.
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      02-21-2012, 03:58 PM   #4
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I would see what a HighlandPete thinks....
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      02-21-2012, 04:00 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMP View Post
I would see what a HighlandPete thinks....
I was thinking the same, he seems to be really switched on with stuff like this!
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      02-21-2012, 04:01 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr Dave View Post
Fuel cap says "No additives", so I couldn't advise or endorse.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr Dave View Post
Although, saying that, I hold Forte products in high regard.
Yeah its a bit of a funny one isnt it, im not keen on the idea, but im also not keen on being bent over by stealers, so im clutching at straws for ideas!
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      02-21-2012, 04:32 PM   #7
pani_K3
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DPF removal and remap might cure it and a nice side effect may be a truck load full of extra ponies

But on a more serious note, you won't be doing any harm since it is already goosed by the sounds of things and forte products are of decent quality so you won't be doing anything detrimental in my humble opinion to the DPF or the fuelling system or the engine itself.
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      02-21-2012, 06:43 PM   #8
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just go for a 100 mile drive on a clear motorway 1st with over half a tank of fuel

costs 15 a couple of hours of your time

before you go buying anything or paying stealers
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      02-22-2012, 12:50 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buckethead
just go for a 100 mile drive on a clear motorway 1st with over half a tank of fuel

costs £15 a couple of hours of your time

before you go buying anything or paying stealers
+1

Brought an Audi DPF back from the brink on the missis' car so worth a go
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      02-22-2012, 01:34 AM   #10
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Already tried that chaps! Did about 140miles, some with the code on and some i removed it and tried again, only for the warning to come back
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      02-22-2012, 01:36 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveyCUFC View Post
+1

Brought an Audi DPF back from the brink on the missis' car so worth a go
+1!

Fuel additives are supposed to degrade catalytic elements from what I can remember reading, though I suspect many members have used the likes of Millers and not had any problems. Certainly I doubt infrequent use is likely to cause any damage, that said I was poised to buy a bulk load of the stuff from Ebay then decided against it. Ultimately if the problem is not solved, I'd certainly look at DPF removal as opposed to replacement. There is a thread on here somewhere if you search, the effects seem largely desirable, though keep your old DPF in case of future change in emissions for MOTs. I think they can be 'recharged' by cleaning off the car... ??do I remember jet washing them.
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      02-22-2012, 02:03 AM   #12
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Have you checked the hidden gauge to check what temperature the car is reaching?

A regen won't happen unless the car gets hot enough.
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      02-22-2012, 04:43 AM   #13
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the 3.0d will have to be doing 80 mph plus for the engine to be working hard enough

how fast where you going was it a no stop trip
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      02-22-2012, 07:12 AM   #14
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I also read somewhere that it should be at a fairly constant throttle as easing off at all lowers the dpf temperature and effectively stops the regeneration process.
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      02-22-2012, 07:30 AM   #15
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Absolutely, thats why i struggle to maintain stable temps on some of the a-roads i drive, loads of hills and off throttle slowing down.

Thats why m-way is always best as it's constant throttle and decent loading.

I know people with new thermostats are getting 90c straight off the bat. Mine does low to mid 80's-c but off throttle or slow town stuff it can easily fall into the 70's.

I'm contemplating whether to get my thermostats changed. Even tho the DPF is still purging, it's on the bubble.


-- I believe OP posted in another thread that his temps are just above the 78c required to start a DPF purge, i guarantee like mine, it will be falling below that level in less than perfect conditions. I think he's already tried a m-way drive. Perhaps a forced regen is the only way to go.
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      02-22-2012, 08:55 AM   #16
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Whilst motorways would be the most consistent in terms of revs and speed, they aren't necessarily the best for keeping high enough temperatures as engines keep a lot more cooler on the motorway by a good 10degC compared to normal driving due to the increased cooling of the radiator and coolant by the volume of air the car is travelling through. Even the oil is kept a lot cooler also contrary to belief that temps are highest on the motorway. They will climb when stopped though. I would have thought an A or B road thrash using up to maybe 3rd or 4th gear to keep the revs high to build up decent engine temps would be a good bet.
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      02-22-2012, 09:02 AM   #17
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I tried a-roads and the temps do get higher especially loading up hills they sky rocket but of course it all balances out when come off throttle down hill or you end up with extremely light input throttle when held up by traffic.
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      02-22-2012, 09:03 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by briers View Post
-- I believe OP posted in another thread that his temps are just above the 78c required to start a DPF purge, i guarantee like mine, it will be falling below that level in less than perfect conditions. I think he's already tried a m-way drive. Perhaps a forced regen is the only way to go.
Forced regeneration... I think that is probably the only way to see if the DPF (as it is) can be salvaged.

If there wasn't the current issue, an active generation should trigger at high 70's, if the other parameters are correct.

I had an active regeneration in mine the other morning, ECT was barely up to 75C from cold and it started, within a mile or so, ECT was up to 92C, and mpg was dropping, (as is the norm for an active regeneration). Regeneration was completing in about 8 miles of free running, most at about 60mph in 6th gear, (which is typical mileage required in my car). When I had to drop speed the auto held a lower gear, showing I was still in the regeneration phase, ECT was still holding 92C.

Even before changing the main thermostat I had still seen into the 90's on an active regeneration, while running low to mid 80's.

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      02-22-2012, 09:20 AM   #19
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Get a forced regen done, then run your car on V-power diesel.
the cleaning additives they mix together keep everything running sweet

Ive done just over 50,000 in my 335d, running my tuning box all that time, allot of around town driving in Lincoln ect..... no DPF issues
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      02-22-2012, 10:20 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NotNormal View Post
Ive done just over 50,000 in my 335d, running my tuning box all that time, allot of around town driving in Lincoln ect..... no DPF issues
I've almost exclusivley driven my 335D around town. 90% below 30 mph.

I can feel a regen taking place even at those speeds. While during a regen your car will run much hotter by design - you can sense the extra load and the engine runs higher revs before changing. I just carry on around the block a few times until it has finished.

If it really requires you to drive at speed/high revs there would be many, many cars that would never see a regen. London etc.

I run exclusivley on the good Diesels too.

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      02-22-2012, 10:22 AM   #21
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Ive never understood v-power diesel - i know it has a bunch of detergents in there for cleaning and lubrication but it also has a higher cetane rating. I thought this would produce more soot as it would ignite quicker before it has had sufficient time to mix with the air. Obviously fractions of a second, but that is enough to ignite fuel before optimal mix leaving soot.

I've driven a couple of higher power diesels, including my 335d and i got knocking or pinking at certain RPM's on v-power.

I just fuel with Shell Extra now, every tank.
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      02-22-2012, 10:35 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by briers View Post
Ive never understood v-power diesel - i know it has a bunch of detergents in there for cleaning and lubrication but it also has a higher cetane rating. I thought this would produce more soot as it would ignite quicker before it has had sufficient time to mix with the air. Obviously fractions of a second, but that is enough to ignite fuel before optimal mix leaving soot..
Best to let BP describe why higher cetane makes for better, more complete combustion.


Quote:
Cetane number is the key measure of diesel fuel combustion quality. The number relates to the ignition delay - the period that occurs between the start of fuel injection and the start of combustion. Good quality combustion occurs with rapid ignition followed by smooth and complete fuel burn. The higher the cetane number, the shorter the ignition delay and the better the quality of combustion. Conversely, low cetane number fuels are slow to ignite and then burn too rapidly, leading to high rates of pressure rise.

If the cetane number of the fuel is too low, these poor combustion characteristics give rise to excessive engine noise, increased exhaust emissions and reduced vehicle performance while increasing engine stress. Excessive smoke - and indeed other, invisible emissions - and combustion noise are familiar problems associated with diesel vehicles, particularly under cold starting conditions.
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