[Jdub679]

Originally Posted by therealm3

I really liked the turn in and handling in general from my 335 so I have been slowly trying to recreate that on the 328. I have PSS's and performance suspension already and I wanted to try removing the alignment pins and see what it did before I got the M3 arms because there is a good chance I will be replacing the car in a year or so. Save some money, but I may end up doing it anyways cause the steering just isn't as crisp and accurate. With my old car it felt like it wanted to turn and was much more stable when pushed hard. Honestly I feel like the Tires (PSSs) made the biggest difference in handling so far on the 328. I love them. Maybe the best thing would have been only tires and M3 arms. Who knows. Too late to try that combo now.

You're probably right about that. I run on Hankook Evo V12's and I have the impression that the sidewalls are pretty soft. But even with those, the M3 control arms reduced the lag when going into a turn. Response is better, especially with left/right transitions (drove down the 210 to Pasadena tonight for those who know). I'd expect that with a set of PSS's, the response would be even better.

[WhiteFury]

I am currently at -.9 camber lowered on eibach pro kit. I want to use sp perches on my xi by getting the "I" tophats. Can I get my camber back to -.7 or -.6 by removing the pin? The local bmw shop says not to do it.

The reason I want to do this is because if I lower another half of an inch with the purchase I know that I'll be at -1.2 camber roughly.

Does anyone know if ground control or any other camber plate works with sp perches?

Thanks

[ajsalida]

a) you will not get another 1/2 inch out of the perches, do a search and find out how many XI owners were not pleased with them.

b) removing pins gives you more negative camber, not more positive camber

c) even if you did get another 1/2 inch drop you would not end up with -0.3 deg more negative, but you'd lose another 1/2" of suspension travel so you are back to riding on bump stops and bottoming out all the time.

The XI suspension is very tricky to get lowered right in front, unless you go with good quality coil overs. Please take some time to read more in the XI section, lot of people have tackled these issues and written extensively about them.

[renizer]

Originally Posted by Jdub679

Was this done with the front wheels on the ground and the suspension loaded? Sounds like if you could get a hand on the shock assembly, the suspension was not loaded at the time. I was going to try to loosen the 3 nuts and push the top of the tire inward (towards the engine) with the suspension loaded. Might not get anywhere though.

By chance, do you know what the torque specs are for those 3 nuts?

Jdub679 sorry to resurrect this old thread but got a question to you or anyone else who wants to chime in here: what's the difference of the approach outlined above with loaded or unloaded suspension when trying to turn up the camber by loosening the 3 nuts and pushing it inwards to max? besides that maybe you can't slide it when it's loaded

[Jdub679]

Originally Posted by renizer

Jdub679 sorry to resurrect this old thread but got a question to you or anyone else who wants to chime in here: what's the difference of the approach outlined above with loaded or unloaded suspension when trying to turn up the camber by loosening the 3 nuts and pushing it inwards to max? besides that maybe you can't slide it when it's loaded

It's been a while, but I seem to remember that even with the suspension loaded, there is still a "little" bit of play in the camber. But the difference between loading and not loading could mean a bigger difference in final camber. Hope that answers your question.

[Tambohamilton]

If you want to make life difficult for yourself, try adjusting the camber with the suspension loaded. BMW have a special tool for moving the strut top with load on the suspension.

Otherwise, adjust the strut tops with the wheel(s) off the ground, so you can do it all by hand.

There is no functional difference to the adjustment you make.

[renizer]

Jacked it up and moved over nicely with a firm push against the coil/strut from inside the wheel arch. Thanks for the pointers you two gave me.
Tambohamilton Are you sure there's no difference in how the wheel camber will settle if you set it with loaded or unloaded suspension? Jdub679 pointed out something different.

[Tambohamilton]

100% sure it'll settle in the same position regardless of whether you make the adjustment with load on the suspension or not. It's not like having weight on the suspension allows you to set the strut mount in a different position than you can with no weight on the suspension. You will have to settle the suspension after you lower it back onto its wheels (before taking any measurements), if you jack it up to make the adjustments.

[Jdub679]

Originally Posted by renizer

Jacked it up and moved over nicely with a firm push against the coil/strut from inside the wheel arch. Thanks for the pointers you two gave me.
Tambohamilton Are you sure there's no difference in how the wheel camber will settle if you set it with loaded or unloaded suspension? Jdub679 pointed out something different.

Sorry man. Like I said, it's been a while.

[renizer]

makes perfect sense, thanks for the reply. was just to round off the info here and my thinking about it