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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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DIY N52 Valve Cover Gasket replacement
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10-09-2018, 08:40 AM | #23 |
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I try to stick to the motto of if it ain't broke don't fix it, and just throwing parts at the car. However, that has bitten me in the ass more often that not...i.e. most recently the ESS.
I would just replace the VC if you can afford it, eventually the PCV valve is going to tear and go out and you will have to replace the VC anyway, but do not skimp and buy the aftermarket URO one... I was told they just don't fit quite right and continue to leak. |
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10-11-2018, 08:06 PM | #24 | ||
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10-12-2018, 12:03 AM | #25 | |
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That $1800 could've very easily paid for all the tools you needed and two new valve covers right there... and then some. Situations like this are a prime example to learn and invest time to DIY such doable repairs. A VCG replacement shouldn't take more than 4-6 hours for a newbie. Otherwise you end up spending 1/4 of the car's value on such repairs at shops... doesn't really seem worthwhile to own such a high mileage car at that point.
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10-20-2018, 04:46 AM | #27 |
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Permatex Black RTV. Put a little in the back spots and corners then let it dry. It'll hold it in place while you set it down and tighten up.
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11-29-2018, 03:37 PM | #28 | |
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You may already have heard of the recall for PCV Valve Heater and Blower Motor Wiring for 3 series from ‘07-‘11. If yours falls in the category, you could ask for refund... although I’m not sure if they’ll pay for the valve cover and gasket...
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11-30-2018, 12:09 PM | #29 |
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They won't. Those recalls don't touch the VC.
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12-17-2018, 02:49 AM | #31 | |
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You're fighting against the purpose of oil if you think it's going to help hold it in effectively — unless you are using some really thick differential oil or something (which you shouldn't). It would just make the job messier anyway. |
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12-23-2018, 06:13 PM | #32 |
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I am having a difficult time removing the ignition coil wiring harness. I can easily unclip the three clips forward of the valvetronic, but there seems to be something holding it in rearward of the valvetronic. Can somebody who has done this tell me what I am missing? I watch videos of this, and this thing is supposed to come out easily....?
Thanks, Andy OK, I figured it out. I did not believe it, I watched a number of videos and the guys just pulled up on it and it came off. For those that are as squeamish as me, on the wire harness on the passenger's side of the valve cover: there are two plastic jaws that hold the wire harness that goes over the top of the valve cover to the injector side. You need to release those jaws. Once they are released, the plastic assembly under the ignition coils can be just popped up. I released the 3 tabs that were clearly visible first, but this is not necessary. When popped up you can see that there are two more tabs on the underside of the rear of the assembly under those two huge wire clusters. Last edited by peafarmer; 12-23-2018 at 08:53 PM.. Reason: found solution |
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02-23-2019, 01:25 PM | #35 |
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Ticking and rough ride
So I just finished replacing my valve cover gasket on my 07 328i. However now the car has a ticking noise and rides terribly. Shakes the entire car while driving. Didn't do this before the valve cover gasket replacement. Anyone know what the cause of this issue could be?
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02-23-2019, 05:09 PM | #36 | |
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03-26-2019, 08:18 AM | #37 |
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I just finished mine this weekend. Overall not too difficult, I think the 2 most helpful tips are to loosen and raise the cowl, and make sure you have a decent magnetic pick-up tool..
Once everything was opened up, the internals looked clean and in good shape. [IMG]IMG_1492 by B Graber, on Flickr[/IMG] Here's a shot of the old gaskets: [IMG]IMG_1498 by B Graber, on Flickr[/IMG] Considering how hard and brittle they were, it's no surprise they leaked. I replaced my ESS as well. I highly recommend the lower cost VDO replacement part, you can clearly see where the BMW brand and part # is etched out: [IMG] IMG_1496 by B Graber, on Flickr[/IMG] Also, on my existing ESS the lower bolt was not captured, so be mindful when removing yours, wouldn't want that dropping into the head. In total it took me two days. I certainly wasn't in a hurry and cleaned the hell out of everything while I went. [IMG]IMG_1480 by B Graber, on Flickr[/IMG] Ok, to be honest, this is the photo I took before I started, so for the after just imagine this slightly cleaner. |
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05-04-2020, 06:01 PM | #38 |
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I need a pro-tip.
What is the safest way to pry VC from the head? Is there specific location where VC would be more resilient to screwdriver manipulations? TL;DR; I am an "expert" of breaking (old) plastic parts. My VCG has a very small leak in the back - it sits firmly all round . My fear is to crack VC while prying it with screwdriver. |
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05-04-2020, 10:51 PM | #40 | |
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05-05-2020, 12:39 AM | #41 |
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bluewater328 Luis561 - thanks guys!
Yes, I overthink a lot Patience and moving around the edge should do it. I went through forums & youtube - all have VC just pop right up (or with wide pry bar light assistance). I got it started a bit with wide pry bar and then switched to plastic putty knife. Almost got front side separated. It does "feel" that something is still holding it. I have 2 studs, center and perimeter bolts loose. Anything else I missed? |
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05-05-2020, 01:06 AM | #42 | |
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Did you remove the plug tube seals? It isn't technically required but it helps to take them out as they add height when you remove the vc. Also assume you've already disconnected the PCV from the rear of the vc. |
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05-05-2020, 01:34 AM | #43 | ||
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I unscred middle ground posts and center one (I put nuts back on so I do not lose them)
Do middle ground posts and center one come out completely? Quote:
my LED flashlight makes it look like they are still there. (and ordered new ones) Quote:
I have impression that my gasket(s) are in better shape than others that separated easily. New parts are expected this Friday. I should have plenty of time before then to lift and clean VC |
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05-05-2020, 01:39 AM | #44 | |||
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