[rawdog573]

has anyone ever tried boost solenoids from ebay. i know its not ideal buying unknown brand for the bimmer. but i dont have $150 at the moment for new solenoids and saw some on ebay. you can get 2 package together for $55. with warranty. so figured i would ask and see if anyone has tried any before. hooked mine to a vacuum gauge and found them not holding and leaking down.

[srey]

I bought some ebay boost solenoids (but from Amazon), and they didn't do their job correctly. I ended up replacing them with Pierburgs, and that resolved my issue. I get the struggle with money, but I wouldn't go with knock-offs here. Just my opinion.

[rawdog573]

ive just been fighting this 30ff code like crazy. replaced vacuum lines. tested and made sure there all sealed and not leaking good. vacuum pump working correctly. wastegates are opening and closing good. replaced my charge pipe with a new one. did find my factory diverter valves not holding past 13psi. trying to find the money to get forged ones soon. because i dont want to buy another charge pipe to switch to blow off valve set up. and i did find my boost solenoids with some leak down. so figured i would replace them since they are original.

[srey]

I totally get it. I documented my fight against 30ff here:

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...ight=solenoids

It really helped when I replaced the hard vacuum hoses that go over the valve cover, btw.

[rawdog573]

Originally Posted by srey

I totally get it. I documented my fight against 30ff here:

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...ight=solenoids

It really helped when I replaced the hard vacuum hoses that go over the valve cover, btw.

I've already replaced the hard vacuum lines. I just replaced and ran solid rubber lines. I do know for sure the diverted valves are leaking because I took a valve stem from a car tire and it fit perfect in the diverted valve inlet from charge pipe port. Shoved it in there and hooked my compressor to it. Anything under 12ish psi there was no leak. But once I bumped it up you could hear the air leaking through the outlet of the diverted valve. And the boost solenoids I'm
Not 100% they need to be replaced. I just know when I pull vacuum on them they leak down so not sure it's normal on those or not.

[Bimmer_Engineer]

Originally Posted by rawdog573

I've already replaced the hard vacuum lines. I just replaced and ran solid rubber lines. I do know for sure the diverted valves are leaking because I took a valve stem from a car tire and it fit perfect in the diverted valve inlet from charge pipe port. Shoved it in there and hooked my compressor to it. Anything under 12ish psi there was no leak. But once I bumped it up you could hear the air leaking through the outlet of the diverted valve. And the boost solenoids I'm
Not 100% they need to be replaced. I just know when I pull vacuum on them they leak down so not sure it's normal on those or not.

I would do some searching on the boost solenoids...especially if you’re tight on funds. I replaced mine last year and before I did I remember reading something on this forum that said they don’t hold a vacuum unless they’re energized...

If you know the diverter valves are leaking I would go to replace them first...

[rawdog573]

Originally Posted by Bimmer_Engineer

I would do some searching on the boost solenoids...especially if you’re tight on funds. I replaced mine last year and before I did I remember reading something on this forum that said they don’t hold a vacuum unless they’re energized...

If you know the diverter valves are leaking I would go to replace them first...

I do plan on diverter valves first because I know for sure there leaking. I tested them with an air compressor and regulator. I did find a good deal on forge diverter valves that carried a good warranty for $150 so I may try and get ahold of them soon

[dpaul]

Originally Posted by rawdog573

I do plan on diverter valves first because I know for sure there leaking. I tested them with an air compressor and regulator. I did find a good deal on forge diverter valves that carried a good warranty for $150 so I may try and get ahold of them soon

Since economy is an issue right now, why not just get a set of used OEM diverters from a yard? Should be about $10-20.

I installed Forge diverter valves in 2012 because all the forum posters felt the OEMs were garbage. The Forges leaked right away! So I put back my original 2009 OEM diverters and many years later, with typical 18psi max boost (sometimes a little higher), I have never had a leak traceable to them. I have had to replace the boost solenoids (used OEM) and vacuum lines ("platinum" silicone) but the diverters work perfectly and hold again far higher boost than they were designed for.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by rawdog573

has anyone ever tried boost solenoids from ebay. i know its not ideal buying unknown brand for the bimmer. but i dont have $150 at the moment for new solenoids and saw some on ebay. you can get 2 package together for $55. with warranty. so figured i would ask and see if anyone has tried any before. hooked mine to a vacuum gauge and found them not holding and leaking down.

Get them for $140.00 with a lifetime warranty on FCP.

[rawdog573]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Get them for $140.00 with a lifetime warranty on FCP.

I know. That just the issue right now. With 2 loans and some other payments I use what I can right now to buy parts when I can. Hoping to get some of these bills paid off soon so money will be easier to save

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by rawdog573

I know. That just the issue right now. With 2 loans and some other payments I use what I can right now to buy parts when I can. Hoping to get some of these bills paid off soon so money will be easier to save

Do you know for sure the boost solenoids are toast?

[rawdog573]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Do you know for sure the boost solenoids are toast?

No. All I did was pull vacuum to them with a hand pump. The gauge did fall and leak down. But I've here it's normal and I've also herd it's not suppose to do that. So I really don't know

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by rawdog573

No. All I did was pull vacuum to them with a hand pump. The gauge did fall and leak down. But I've here it's normal and I've also herd it's not suppose to do that. So I really don't know

[rawdog573]

I had an idea and not sure if it's safe or not. But what would happen if I just took the vacuum lines straight from the vacuum canisters and hooked them straight to the waste gates and bypassed the solenoids basically. Wouldn't wastegates always be shut at this point? I've read on some forums somewhere that some people weld there waste gates shut when they have rattle or are getting weak. Mine are fine tho. But wouldn't this always keep them closed so I don't have to worry about the boost solenoids?

[Sgop335]

Originally Posted by rawdog573

I had an idea and not sure if it's safe or not. But what would happen if I just took the vacuum lines straight from the vacuum canisters and hooked them straight to the waste gates and bypassed the solenoids basically. Wouldn't wastegates always be shut at this point? I've read on some forums somewhere that some people weld there waste gates shut when they have rattle or are getting weak. Mine are fine tho. But wouldn't this always keep them closed so I don't have to worry about the boost solenoids?

I don't recommend this but my 535i is set up w rear turbocharger hooked straight to the vacuum input (solenoid bypassed). Front solenoid is still regulating. You need at least one regulation. I can do this because my rear wg seems shot (30FF code) and I take LOGS to check. Otherwise you will be overboosting like crazy and damaging who knows what.
As a result, Im now boosting 16psi no problem and avoiding the 30ff code at least for some time (buying time).

[rawdog573]

Originally Posted by Sgop335

I don't recommend this but my 535i is set up w rear turbocharger hooked straight to the vacuum input (solenoid bypassed). Front solenoid is still regulating. You need at least one regulation. I can do this because my rear wg seems shot (30FF code) and I take LOGS to check. Otherwise you will be overboosting like crazy and damaging who knows what.
As a result, Im now boosting 16psi no problem and avoiding the 30ff code at least for some time (buying time).

As long as I can hit my 18-20psi target I'm
Happy

[rawdog573]

Originally Posted by Sgop335

I don't recommend this but my 535i is set up w rear turbocharger hooked straight to the vacuum input (solenoid bypassed). Front solenoid is still regulating. You need at least one regulation. I can do this because my rear wg seems shot (30FF code) and I take LOGS to check. Otherwise you will be overboosting like crazy and damaging who knows what.
As a result, Im now boosting 16psi no problem and avoiding the 30ff code at least for some time (buying time).

Also how would that work because both boost solenoids are inline and both use the same to control both waste gates so how would disconnecting one straight to vacuum make a difference

[rawdog573]

Originally Posted by Sgop335

I don't recommend this but my 535i is set up w rear turbocharger hooked straight to the vacuum input (solenoid bypassed). Front solenoid is still regulating. You need at least one regulation. I can do this because my rear wg seems shot (30FF code) and I take LOGS to check. Otherwise you will be overboosting like crazy and damaging who knows what.
As a result, Im now boosting 16psi no problem and avoiding the 30ff code at least for some time (buying time).

So I tried what you do with yours unhook the back solenoid and run straight vacuum but leave the front one hooked up and talk about a big difference it made. I'm pushing 16psi now and holding. Still not the 18 target. But I'm getting somewhere atleast. Hsvnt got my 30ff code either doing this. I still know that the diverter valves are leaking. But atleast I know probably wouldn't hurt to get new boost solenoids along with it

[Sgop335]

Originally Posted by rawdog573

Also how would that work because both boost solenoids are inline and both use the same to control both waste gates so how would disconnecting one straight to vacuum make a difference

I dont have the hose connecting them.

[rawdog573]

Originally Posted by Sgop335

Forgot to mention i dont have the hose connecting them.

Oh ok. I un hooked my rear one and the line from canister to solenoid I put it there the solenoid to waste gate line goes. Other one still reads and thinks its logging waste gate control but in reality there fully shut. But it did bring back 3psi for me. I'm
Not leaving it for forever tho. Just temporary until I get new solenoids

[Sgop335]

Originally Posted by rawdog573

Oh ok. I un hooked my rear one and the line from canister to solenoid I put it there the solenoid to waste gate line goes. Other one still reads and thinks its logging waste gate control but in reality there fully shut. But it did bring back 3psi for me. I'm
Not leaving it for forever tho. Just temporary until I get new solenoids

Understand that solenoids may not be the problem, turbo wastegates are the problem.

[rawdog573]

Originally Posted by Sgop335

Understand that solenoids may not be the problem, turbo wastegates are the problem.

I think it's more in my diverter valves. Cause I did test them and they are leaking. And previous owner has had it serviced at bmw. I don't have any wastegate rattle at all. And on my logs they will close 100% but hover like everyone else's in the 50% range from what I've read