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      04-15-2021, 03:11 PM   #1
iansexotics
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Bmw dreaded serpentine belt sucked in

So my serpentine belt got sucked in. On my 335i e90 st and the front seal has gone so far in engine the special puller tool doesn't work tried several times follow a guide
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      04-15-2021, 03:15 PM   #2
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i literally changed mine just incase this happened along with OFHG and full idlers, tensioners pulleys and belts, im sorry this happened man ive seen a few shops like precision dynamics fix this stuff, any chance you can do it yourself? really really sorry this happened to you
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      04-15-2021, 04:54 PM   #3
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Yea I have the skills to do it I already took oil pan off and got all belt out but my struggle is that front seal is so far back in there and I think it's tilted so the front seal removal tool can't get it I want to know if there's any other way than tearing the timing components put
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      04-15-2021, 07:36 PM   #4
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Dude, bummer. Ultimately, its fixable, just a pain in the ass. You posted in the right place to get help. And get a crank seal plate:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...SABEgLq-_D_BwE

This may be a helpful, if older thread:

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1299182

Pouring one out for you...
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      04-15-2021, 07:49 PM   #5
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Yea the real kick in the teeth is my crank seal plate arrived the next day😪
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      04-15-2021, 07:55 PM   #6
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Anyway of taking like a sharp pick and stabbing it to pull it towards the front?
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      04-15-2021, 08:08 PM   #7
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I will try these Tomorrow thanks for all the help will update how it goes
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      04-15-2021, 10:45 PM   #8
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Quote:
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Yea the real kick in the teeth is my crank seal plate arrived the next day😪
This is exactly like when your hot spouse tells you she (he? women own 3-series as well) will stop cheating on you today, then you find out she had one last nooner....
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      04-16-2021, 07:41 AM   #9
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Not on an N54, but I've used wood screws to get seals out before. Usually have to drill a small pilot hole, then drive something like a drywall screw into it and use that to pull it. Your situation is a bit(lot) trickier, you don't want to scratch either mating surfaces or you'll end up with a leak. Maybe put a couple of layers of heat shrink on the screw and just leave the last 1/4" of threads exposed...just a thought, good luck.
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      04-16-2021, 10:23 AM   #10
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I'm gonna try getting several kinds of screws to try worst comes to worst so when I get pissed off enough I'm just gonna pull that bitch and build it going for a 900+whp if I do that
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      04-16-2021, 12:26 PM   #11
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Why stop at 900?
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      04-16-2021, 01:32 PM   #12
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Ok so I bought wood screws, sheet metal screws, and drywall screws and gave each of them 3 good try's but sadly no progress. I tried a pick put ended up bending it and I think there's so many holes now it doesn't work at all
And yea 1000whp instead
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      04-16-2021, 02:27 PM   #13
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OkY so I bought a $13 seal puller from harbor freight And it's half way out I'm so happy this worked thank you all for such helpful information
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      04-16-2021, 08:49 PM   #14
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So what causes belts to get sucked in like that? Is it always because a worn belt and/or leaky oil filter housing?? Do they ever just randomly meet sucked in.....or is it always a maintenance issue (or lack of maintenance)??
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      04-16-2021, 10:32 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iqraceworks View Post
So what causes belts to get sucked in like that? Is it always because a worn belt and/or leaky oil filter housing?? Do they ever just randomly meet sucked in.....or is it always a maintenance issue (or lack of maintenance)??
It's usually 2 ways, one you stated which is oil on the belt and the second common way is the power steering pump hitting the subframe due to a worn engine mount. This isn't really a problem on late 08+ build dates bc they updated the subframe, although I think i've heard of it happening on those vehicles but I believe the passenger motor mount was extremely worn; I read about this a lot a long time ago when researching before buying the car so could be incorrect on some things.

But essentially I believe if the belt snaps or comes off in anyway you risk it being sucked in so failed tensioners and other pulleys could also cause this. #1 reason I did a crank seal plate when I installed my intercooler.
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      04-17-2021, 07:00 AM   #16
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I'm glad I replaced my motor mounts and did the belt, idlers and tensioner when I did my oil pan gasket.
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      04-17-2021, 10:21 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iqraceworks View Post
I'm glad I replaced my motor mounts and did the belt, idlers and tensioner when I did my oil pan gasket.
Haven't done the motor mounts but I did get the belts, idlers and tensioner done.

How long do the motor mounts typically last?

Last edited by Saif2018; 04-18-2021 at 12:18 AM..
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      04-17-2021, 07:45 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iansexotics View Post
OkY so I bought a $13 seal puller from harbor freight And it's half way out I'm so happy this worked thank you all for such helpful information
I have few when the seal gets pushed in. What I do is completely push it in. Then cut it and remove it. For this to work you need to drop the oil pan. To clean the oil pick up tube and chain for belt remnants you need to drop the oil pan anyway.
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      04-18-2021, 09:42 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saif2018 View Post
Haven't done the motor mounts but I did get the belts, idlers and tensioner done.

How long do the motor mounts typically last?
My motor mounts had 100k on them....and honestly, the oem ones looked great when I pulled them out. I probably didn't need to replace them.
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      04-19-2021, 12:15 AM   #20
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My motor mounts had 100k on them....and honestly, the oem ones looked great when I pulled them out. I probably didn't need to replace them.
At 125k miles now, although I did have belts shredded previously so probably a good idea to replace them.
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      04-19-2021, 06:49 AM   #21
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When I put my new belt on a while back, I saw somewhere that there are a couple different routings you can do as far as how you run the belt around the pulleys. The "new" way gets the belt away from the frame, so you don't have to worry as much about it hitting if the motor mounts start to wear out.

....just something to think about.
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      04-19-2021, 08:19 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iqraceworks View Post
When I put my new belt on a while back, I saw somewhere that there are a couple different routings you can do as far as how you run the belt around the pulleys. The "new" way gets the belt away from the frame, so you don't have to worry as much about it hitting if the motor mounts start to wear out.

....just something to think about.
Have you got a diagram of the new way?

Just want to check to see if mine has been done that way,
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