[graphitegrey]

Hello everyone new here so i apologize if this is posted in the wrong area. Im having issues with my 2008 335xi e92. It is automatic with 119,000 miles and the only mods I've done so far is install a full metal charge pipe and tial q blow off valve and no issues with that. I tuned the car yesterday with MHD to stage 1 and at first the cars throttle seemed more responsive and after taking it for a short ride (1mile) i could certainly feel the extra power and loved it before i took the ride i got a warning on i drive saying oil below minimum so added some oil i believe my valve cover gasket had been leaking very slowly before this as i only had to add a little oil before 2 months ago. Anyways after getting back home the vehicle started running rough noticeable vibration throughout the whole car and sputtering at the exhaust. I tried tuning back to stock but the problems still continued vehicle is acting as though its in limp mode it has less than 50% power id say. Extremely sluggish. Anyways the codes it is throwing are as follows

-29CC combustion misfires several cylinders

-29CD combustion misfires cylinder 1

-29CE combustion misfires cylinder 2

-29CF combustion misfires cylinder 3

-2FA3 DME No Coding

-30BA Injectors 1,2,3 or DME Internal Fault

-CDA6 Message (status, electric fuel pump, 0x335) faulty, receiver DME, transmitter EKP

I have no idea where to start I've checked fuel pump fuse and its fine have made sure battery was fully charged. Im going to try disconnecting battery in the morning. I tried clearing the codes and the car started running even worse for about 2 minutes then went back to how it was running bad before and codes were all there. Im assuming the issue is with my DME but i have limited knowledge about this and know others have had this issue and hoping they can help. Ive read about mosfets possibly being bad and if thats what you think it is please let me know where to order new ones from and what could have caused them to go bad, and if i need to replace coils and if so what you recommend. My car ran perfect before i messed with this tuner i am extremely pissed i made sure to do everything right followed all instructions watched multiple videos to ensure everything was done correctly and now my only vehicle doesn't even run good enough to get me down the road. I appreciate everyones help in advance.

[bimmer228]

Hello, my friend and i just got done fixing this problem on his 07 335i, not sure if its the exact same problem but it seams identical.

What happened----
My friend and i just got done flashing his car to the MHD stage 2 tune. we take it for a joy ride and first couple of pulls where great, around 5 min into the ride, we had loss of power, and it felt as if the whole car was vibrating because the engine started to run terrible. We managed to drive it back home.

What we did---
We ran the codes and we got the same codes as you, not sure about "2FA3 DME No Coding" and "CDA6 Message (status, electric fuel pump, 0x335) faulty, receiver DME, transmitter EKP" we thought it was impossible for 3 injectors to fail at the same time so from our research we found that inside the actuall dme are these transistors call MOSFETS, and there are 6 of these, each have something to do with their own injector. and from what i read they tend to go bad and burn out. I took a Volt Meter and tested every one of them, one was bad. We went ahead and ordered 6 replacements for around 2$ each, so we can change them all. We found a tv repair man and he kindly removed the old MOSFETS and saughtered on the new ones. Once the dme was put back in we where left with a code saying misfire in cylinder1, and something about a closed circuit, We got worried and removed the dme and put it back in and cleared the codes and started it, the only code we where left with was misfire cylinder 1. We went and got a spark plug, but unfortunately did not have the right tools to remove the spark plugs. I realized i forgot that the ignition coils tend to go bad on the n54, so i switched ignition coil 1-2, started the car up and i got a misfire in cylinder 2. At this point i was happy. I went got a ignition coil replaced it with the defective one and the car is running like butter.

What I would do if this happened again.---
- CHECK MOSFETS IN DME VIA VOLT METER
(if faulty replace ALL)
-Once replaced, clear codes and start, problem may have been fixed
-If not fixed check each of the injectors that are associated with the cylinders that are having misfires ( there is a lifehack for this using a long flathead screwdriver and putting the tip of the screwdriver to the injector and the handle to your ear (( vids online)))
- EVEN THOUGH YOUR INJECTOR MAY NOT SEEM TO WORK, THAT DOES NOT MEAN THAT IT IS FAULTY, WE HAD 3 INJECTORS THAT WHERE NOT WORKING BUT THATS BECAUSE THE ECU WAS SHUTTING THEM OFF.
-TROUBLESHOOT/ FIX try switching spark plugs and ignition coils see if you have any change
NOTE: injectors cannot be interchanged they require programming
-We tried to take it from lowest price to fix to highest.

NOTES:
Once We had gotten everything done with the dme, and we only had that one misfire, we noticed the engine had a pattern it would cycle through on startup.
Once started it would try to operate under normal RPM but after 30-45 it would slow the RPM and almost shut itself off, We found that in this 30-45 seconds the injector that was in question was indeed working, But it was getting turned off by the computer because something was wrong. (THIS MAY BE A WAY TO SEE IF IT REALLY IS YOUR INJECTOR THATS FAULTY OR SOMETHING ELSES THATS PART OF THE SYSTEM LIKE COIL/SPARK PLUG.

GOOD LUCK.

-let me know if anything seems confusing or needs some clarification )

[bimmer228]

https://www.digikey.com/product-deta...MCT-ND/1566830

These mosfets worked on the car. the DME that the car has is a MSD80 DME.

[graphitegrey]

thats what i have been reading as well. do have any recommendations for spark plugs? NGK or bosch? i want to order new ignition coils but am not sure if i should get bosch or delphi or if i should change just the ones that are bad for now and hold out for the precision race works coil pack setup. have you had any issues wit blowing mosfets after fixing coils and mosfets? i don't want to tune the car again if its going to do the same thing after fixing everything but i loved the power increase and don't see why it did all this to begin with. thanks for your help bud i appreciate it has been a nightmare dealing with it all day. i can fix most of this stuff myself i am just new to BMWs and all these computers and modules and what not throw me off.

[bimmer228]

If you are planning to purchase the whole set of plugs and or coils/ then I would go with NGK for plugs just cause Budget Bimmers on youtube are running them lol. And not sure about coil, i bought the bosch just because thats what was available at autozone. But if you are only planning to replace the faulty ones and keep the old ones while you are getting a whole pack, try to get the same coil and spark plugs as all the other ones you have, its healthier for the engine from what I was told. I forgot what the guy at autozone compared it to, but it made sense so i listened lol. You should not have anymore problems with mosfets, have not heard of them going faulty after repair.

[bimmer228]

[graphitegrey]

update: i pulled all the covers out of the engine bay today to access injectors and the first 3 are not ticking the last 3 are ticking though. what do you think my odds are that this is just due to the mosfets and not the actual injectors themselves? I don't see how 3 could go bad all at once especially when there was never any issues with them before programing.

[IllSic_Design]

Very likely the mosfets went out. Pull the DME and check them with a multi-meter. SUPER easy to do.

[Makoa6]

Originally Posted by graphitegrey

update: i pulled all the covers out of the engine bay today to access injectors and the first 3 are not ticking the last 3 are ticking though. what do you think my odds are that this is just due to the mosfets and not the actual injectors themselves? I don't see how 3 could go bad all at once especially when there was never any issues with them before programing.

id highly recommend you take out your DME and test those mosfets. I also read you wanted to change all the coil packs? what you could have done to check this was to swap the 4, 5, 6 coils with your 1, 2, 3 coils. But i highly doubt that its all 3 coil packs. usually its the mosfets. reference the video that was posted above. there is also other vidoes that talk about the mosfets going bad. wish you the best. keep us posted.

[bimmer228]

I definitely think its your MOSFETS. When we fixed the MOSFETS we still had one misfire. switching the coils around was enough to troubleshoot/ diagnose the problem, which was indeed the coil in my case, we replaced it and everything was Zayebis.(very good)

[graphitegrey]

I've ordered 7 new mosfets (an extra to be safe) from the site you recommended last night waiting for them to arrive ill be pulling the DME tomorrow and opening it up to be sure but I'm pretty sure thats the issue i was going to repair it myself but unfortunately i do not have a hot air work box so will be looking for local electronic repair shops tomorrow. i might as well tackle installing the new catless down pipes and valve cover gasket since I'm already all into it and my girlfriend is letting me use her 2018 charger till i have it all fixed so ill enjoy that for a bit haha. while i have you guys here I've also not been able to get my comfort access to work since i got the vehicle any ideas as to what would cause that i know my car is equipped with CAS but the door handles do not unlock the car and i can't start the car with the key in my pocket. i want to have the key checked to make sure it is not a replacement that doesn't have the CAS option anyone know a way of doing this or will i need the dealer. Only other things it could be is diversity antenna or CAS module right?

[Bullcitybmmer]

I'm going to ask the obvious question: How old are the plugs and coils in the car? Even if the mosfets are crapping out, if you're at 119k, have no idea how old the plugs and coils are, and are tuning it for the first time, you're asking for a headache. Do yourself a favor and order a brand new set of both from FCPeuro or somewhere else with a lifetime warranty so you only have to take the plunge once.

[Makoa6]

Originally Posted by graphitegrey

I've ordered 7 new mosfets (an extra to be safe) from the site you recommended last night waiting for them to arrive ill be pulling the DME tomorrow and opening it up to be sure but I'm pretty sure thats the issue i was going to repair it myself but unfortunately i do not have a hot air work box so will be looking for local electronic repair shops tomorrow. i might as well tackle installing the new catless down pipes and valve cover gasket since I'm already all into it and my girlfriend is letting me use her 2018 charger till i have it all fixed so ill enjoy that for a bit haha. while i have you guys here I've also not been able to get my comfort access to work since i got the vehicle any ideas as to what would cause that i know my car is equipped with CAS but the door handles do not unlock the car and i can't start the car with the key in my pocket. i want to have the key checked to make sure it is not a replacement that doesn't have the CAS option anyone know a way of doing this or will i need the dealer. Only other things it could be is diversity antenna or CAS module right?

in my opinion, and its just my opinion,
I would tackle one problem at a time. You mentioned in here that you wanted to do the catless downpipes, I think that in its self is a whole different job/work... I can see you wanting to change out the valve cover gaskets, but that does including disconnecting fuel lines, airbox, etc... I would try and fix this current problem first, before I move on to those other jobs/work/problems. trying to work on these other projects could introduce more problems/codes???
Take out your DME and use a ohm meter to check those mosfets... if faulty, replace them. clear codes and start. if still have some error codes in cylinder like mentioned above, i would swap coil packs to see if code follows packs, if follows, change out bad coils. clear codes and run again. once all codes are gone, i would then tackle the valve cover gasket, then catless downpipes.

your CAS you mention that the key doesnt work? has the key worked b4? I had similar issue where my key battery went bad and none of the functions worked. What i had to do was get a new key fob and I took out my CAS, sent over to a guy who programed new key to my CAS. in my case, I upgraded my DME to the DME81 from the DME80 which is the newer DME to fix the issue thats mentioned above and I had my DME cloned to my old one and then at the same time, i bought new key and sent out CAS to merry key and DME so it works. Hope this helps.

[graphitegrey]

Im not worried about changing all of this at the same time i have built engines from nothing so i know i won't mess anything up and i also bought this car wrecked and rebuilt it so i know my way around it. i rather do it all while i have my girlfriends car and have everything all taken a part. Literally whole front end is off and i am painting that all off the car and installing new wifi controlled Halo bulbs as well as doing a few other things to the headlights. i pulled DME today and tested mosfets and all 6 are giving irregular readings compared to the new ones I called 12 different electronic repair places and no one could do it so i just ordered a hot air work box and will do it myself. i must say the digkey people have very fast shipping picked cheapest method and it was here in 2 business days. it will be a good week before the HAWB comes in but once it does i will update on how that repair goes before you bite my head off for doing it myself i am an engineer and fix everything myself i just didn't have a hot air work box handy and i was trying to get this done quickly. As for the CAS it never worked since i got the car which it only came with one key when i got it. I have a key programmer but i do not think it will work for this car especially not a CAS key how much will the stealer ship charge to program and cut a new CAS key? I have changed the battery in mine and made no difference. Also to my knowledge the injectors have never been replaced i got car at 115,000 miles and have not dug into service history. I was planning on changing them in the near future but sucks to change them all and coils and plugs and all this at once. I was pissed when i found out about the extended warranty for the turbos and high pressure fuel pump and dealer told me they wouldn't do it because i called a month to late ridiculous it should've counted for all of 2018 no problems with them but figured may as well get new ones if i can get them free.

[graphitegrey]

Update: I changed valve cover gasket/coils/spark plugs/oil filter housing gasket/cleaned vanos solenoids the other day. during tear down cylinder 2 and 3 spark plugs and coils had a good amount of oil in them was definitely a contributing factor so i tried putting computer in after doing all that and problem still persists. my hot air work box came in today so i will be changing the mosfets out this afternoon and will let you know how it goes.

[graphitegrey]

Update: ISSUE RESOLVED

Removed old mosfets yesterday and soldered in the new ones and bam runs like new. I should add that my mosfets never gave full continuity through them to where it would make my multimeter beep i had my cylinder 1 mosfet giving irregular readings in comparison with the others so i figured that was my problem and sure enough it was but after that fixed it i went ahead and changed the other 5 just to be safe. I also didn't have to change any injectors. This had to be the most nerve racking solder job I've ever done but all in all it was relatively simple if you have basic soldering skills with a hot air station. If anyone needs this repair in the future and needs help feel free to contact me.

[Trevpup]

Hey! Im having this problem right now with my DME and my mosfets and one is definitely bad! I'm getting it fixed tomorrow! I was wondering if you were able to tune the car again with any problems? I'm scared if I do the stage 1+ MHD again, the same thing will happen. Have you had problems since?

[Silent9n54]

Originally Posted by Trevpup

Hey! Im having this problem right now with my DME and my mosfets and one is definitely bad! I'm getting it fixed tomorrow! I was wondering if you were able to tune the car again with any problems? I'm scared if I do the stage 1+ MHD again, the same thing will happen. Have you had problems since?

ill bet money that 75% of people with msd80 had their mosfets repaired. I did mine a year ago and have been tuned since with no issues.

[stewbets]

Originally Posted by Trevpup

Hey! Im having this problem right now with my DME and my mosfets and one is definitely bad! I'm getting it fixed tomorrow! I was wondering if you were able to tune the car again with any problems? I'm scared if I do the stage 1+ MHD again, the same thing will happen. Have you had problems since?

As long as you replace all of them, you should be just fine. I was lazy (and nervous I'd trash the DME) the first time and only replaced one. A couple weeks later another went out and that's when I replaced them all. I've been good ever since on a much more aggressive tune.

[IllSic_Design]

Originally Posted by Trevpup

Hey! Im having this problem right now with my DME and my mosfets and one is definitely bad! I'm getting it fixed tomorrow! I was wondering if you were able to tune the car again with any problems? I'm scared if I do the stage 1+ MHD again, the same thing will happen. Have you had problems since?

The original mosfets are defective/poor quality and that's why they go out. Nothing in the tune would drive them harder or anything as to damage them. As long as you replace all of them you should have no troubles.