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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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DYNAVIN N6 Multimedia GPS System, New for 2015....OFFICIAL THREAD>>>>
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08-06-2014, 10:32 PM | #67 | |
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08-06-2014, 11:50 PM | #68 |
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So how much and where do I buy?
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E90 Build Thread (SOLD) http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=809436
F15 Build Thread (SOLD) http://f15.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho....php?t=1064084 |
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08-07-2014, 10:21 AM | #69 |
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http://www.jandtdistributing.com/col...ries-2006-2012 The website will show you the price, use the promo code on Jeff's signature to save $50. |
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08-07-2014, 10:27 AM | #70 | |
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E90 Build Thread (SOLD) http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=809436
F15 Build Thread (SOLD) http://f15.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho....php?t=1064084 |
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08-09-2014, 07:37 AM | #72 |
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I don't know, we need more people to post their unit installation, and i think a few of them didn't do it yet. It's a good sign tho, that means that people who bought this has nothing to complain about the unit or they would be all over this thread complaining.
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08-09-2014, 09:03 AM | #75 | ||
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Thats actually been a bit of a problem for us since about the time the D99+ came out, when people dont have anything to complain about they typically dont post on the forums....and if they dont post, the threads are slow and dont get kept up in the top of the forum, fewer people see them, and we sell less. Its counterintuitive but ive found that on the forums at least, building a better product can actually can make your sales go down! Although the N6 does most things right, is far from perfect and the new software that is incoming has a lot of small fixes for things that we have found once the units were actually in the field. I have it in its current form and its 99% but its still being worked on and of course bug fixes and refinements are always an ongoing process. So far I sent out a couple dozen E9X units and I only have one customer with any substantial issues and we are taking care of him... Last edited by jeffb335; 08-11-2014 at 10:49 AM.. |
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08-09-2014, 09:08 AM | #76 | |
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For future readers of this thread, this is not a sales thread, please go to my website if you have questions about purchases....click the link in my signature... Last edited by jeffb335; 08-09-2014 at 09:48 AM.. |
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08-09-2014, 11:19 AM | #77 |
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So today i made this since i was bored, I'll promise to make better ones as soon as I get back to photoshop like before. Anyway, there you go.
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08-09-2014, 03:01 PM | #78 |
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I will post up my install with rear camera and pics when I return from vacation - right now the sun and beach are more important
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08-11-2014, 08:37 AM | #79 |
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My unit got held up in the customs for a while, and I have no idea where it is right now. Ive been at work for two weeks. It might just be waiting for me at home.
Going home today and will probably install it within the week if it has arrived. I will be back to tell you how the install went |
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08-11-2014, 10:48 AM | #81 |
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I dont know if this is the case in the UK but I know that the Euro dealers have a higher price due to the VAT tax, in many cases more than 20%....and its already included in the price so it makes sense that they would be 20% more expensive than dealers elsewhere....
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08-14-2014, 02:10 PM | #82 |
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Well after 2 nights of serious struggle to get power to the unit I'm about to give up on the fuse box approach. I have tried nearly every available constant power socket but nothing seems to work.
Now I'm wondering if the unit is even still functional because the one location that worked (Auto locks) no longer does. I had to pull it initially from that one because the locks ended up not working (even though the N6 did). My last out appears to be take the entire head unit to the trunk and test it on the battery. Has anyone had their unit fail while trying to find the correct fuse? I have a fuse tap I'm using so that should have absorbed any possible short that might damage the unit but I'm seriously at the end of my rope with this thing. I've spend 3 hours collectively trying to make the fuse box work in order to save the headache of running the wire the length of the car. Looks like I would have saved time going the long way around at this point. Any suggestions would be great. I have a 2007 4-door 335i. My fuse box looks a bit different than Jeff's. |
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08-14-2014, 02:17 PM | #83 |
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I feel your pain, I spent almost an hour down the fuse box approach and I couldn’t get any power to the unit and I was convinced I had a dead unit.
Save yourself the pain though, just get the yellow cable, wire in a 10 or 15A fuse and run it on the outside of the car to the battery terminal, this way you can prove that the unit works. Then you can set to work on routing it through the car. I personally have no experience of routing wires through the car but it was a piece of cake once I got the back seat up. Have a look a few pages back for my mini review and you’ll see my tips on routing the cable. Don’t give up! It’s worth the effort I promise! Last edited by Googlyamnesiac; 08-14-2014 at 02:26 PM.. |
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08-14-2014, 02:21 PM | #84 |
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Yes, those who have followed these threads from the beginning will recall we had a BIG discussion already about the best way to wire constant power. Frankly your experience is EXACTLY why its probably a better idea to just run a wire to trunk and connect to the battery. You have now spent hours fiddling with the fuse box when it would have taken maybe 30 minutes +/- to run a wire to the trunk.
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08-14-2014, 04:39 PM | #85 | |
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08-14-2014, 05:13 PM | #86 |
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Yeah, that's what I'll have to do. Thanks all. I'll update when finished. Damn me and my "easy" approach. I thought I did enough research but after finding out that my fuse box chart is missing (UGH) along with the fuse pullers (double UGH), I should have seen the writing on the wall. Also missed on the discount code at Jeff's store. Guess I'm more blind than I thought. Time for new glasses.
Last edited by RobRogers99; 08-14-2014 at 05:20 PM.. |
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08-14-2014, 06:32 PM | #87 |
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It honestly looks a lot more intimidating than it is. Panels pop up pretty easy (I used a pry tool) and pop back in pretty easily as well.
The hard part was figuring out the back seat. (mine do not fold down, so I had to take both the seat and the back out) In the end, it all boiled down to pulling up really hard on the corners of the seat, and three big bolts held the back in to some clips. Most installers (good ones?) are probably universally going to tell anyone; Go with the sure thing at the battery instead of hours worth of 'maybe'. It'll save you time in the long run. |
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08-14-2014, 08:36 PM | #88 | |
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Here's a few tips (I might be stating the obvious in some of them but figured if it saves someone some time then it's good me sharing my experience). 1) Hooking up to the battery for the permanent connection was definitely the way to go. I first started routing the cable through to the rear seats and then hit a stumbling block in trying to get the cable through to the trunk. . . I got pissed off and thought 'screw it, i'll just use the fusebox'. 45 minutes later after getting even more pissed off I then went back to plan A ... Like most of you probably, I have the seats that don't fold down in the rear. The real problem for me was getting the seat pulled up. In hindsight, it's damn easy. Just grab the seat at the edge and yank upwards (quite a lot of force!). There's one clip at each side. Then just pull it forwards a bit. Then in the trunk lift up the storage board thing and pull it forwards a little (or take it out completely as I did). Once youve done this, get a metal coathanger and slide it through from the bottom of the vertical seat that's still in place in the rear of the vehicle and you should (after a couple of attempts) see it from the trunk. Then tape your yellow 12V cable to the coathanger and pull it through. During the whole install, this part probably took me the longest but if I had to do it again now, it would be a 5 minute job! |
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