[lowrydr310]

I finally cleaned my engine bay amd confirmed that there's some oil leaking from the rear passenger side of the valve cover. Its not bad and definitely not accumulating on the under tray, but there's a bunch of grime on my rear turbo's wastegate actuator and the outlet pipe.

I removed my PCV valve and it's not completely sealing when I blow into it, so I ordered one from RBturbo, waiting for delivery. Any chance that stops the oil leak?

Looks like I might just replace the valve cover gasket too. How much more difficult is the N54? I've done three N52 valve covers and it's not bad but I'm thinking I may just pay a shop for this one.

[E93Seattle (Racerbruce)]

Originally Posted by lowrydr310

I finally cleaned my engine bay amd confirmed that there's some oil leaking from the rear passenger side of the valve cover. Its not bad and definitely not accumulating on the under tray, but there's a bunch of grime on my rear turbo's wastegate actuator and the outlet pipe.

I removed my PCV valve and it's not completely sealing when I blow into it, so I ordered one from RBturbo, waiting for delivery. Any chance that stops the oil leak?

Looks like I might just replace the valve cover gasket too. How much more difficult is the N54? I've done three N52 valve covers and it's not bad but I'm thinking I may just pay a shop for this one.

i'm sure you have seen the ecs tuning pdf
http://bd8ba3c866c8cbc330ab-7b26c6f3...eplacement.pdf

this will help you decide if you have the proper tools, replacement parts and abilities to replace the valve cover gasket.

many posts on this site strongly recommend using original bmw oem parts for something like this; you may want to consider this even tho it's a little more expensive.

i just replaced the blowby vent hose while upgrading the oem pcv valve to a billet aluminum pcv valve....it is VERY difficult to disconnect and not damage the hose due to heat sync over the years; suggest having a new replacement hose on standby:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...e/11157553949/

keep your post updated - we want to see how this goes!

[lowrydr310]

Starting with the PCV and hose replacement and I'll see what happens from there. I'll do a better job inspecting the valve cover when I do the work this week - I'll have to check for cracks/leaks, but I'm starting with the valve.

The leak isn't bad, the under tray of the car is completely clean, just a bit of oil residue on the turbo outlet and wastegate actuator.

I'll update this post.

[E93Seattle (Racerbruce)]

Originally Posted by lowrydr310

Starting with the PCV and hose replacement and I'll see what happens from there. I'll do a better job inspecting the valve cover when I do the work this week - I'll have to check for cracks/leaks, but I'm starting with the valve.

The leak isn't bad, the under tray of the car is completely clean, just a bit of oil residue on the turbo outlet and wastegate actuator.

I'll update this post.

great news -
just a reminder (and you may know this or have watched videos re pcv valve replacement) that when you remove the fuel line that goes from the main fuel rail to the fuel injector near the pcv valve (it must be removed to access this valve) to "double wrench" the fuel line fittings (requires a 13mm and a 14 mm wrench) to prevent stress loads on the fuel injector when loosening and then eventually tightening the fuel line fittings.

again, you have seen this in the video(s) but perform all of this work when the engine is COLD and has set hopefully overnight; this will allow the mega-psi in the fuel line to dissipate (keep a rag on top of and below ) when loosening the fuel line fittings to catch residual gas.