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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Mechanical Maintenance: Break-in / Oil & Fluids / Servicing / Warranty > urgent - under car need help bleeding e92 manual clutch



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      11-04-2018, 01:10 PM   #1
pjr710
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urgent - under car need help bleeding e92 manual clutch

ok i bled all my brakes with the motive power bleeder no issues.

I get to the clutch, getting to the screw was a pain but i got a method.

Now I bled it ... some fluid came out .. then i heard air come out ... went back to my power bleeder .. it bled down. At this point i've tried a lot of things an can't get fluid to come out.

Does anyone have any tips on how to fix this.

thanks
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      11-04-2018, 01:47 PM   #2
pjr710
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Quick update ... I was using the power bleeder for pressure only .. not adding fluid to the motive bottle itself ... i put fluid into it and I think that solved the issue.

I let it bleed .. there was moments of air .. then a consistent pour for a few seconds .. i believe the clutch is good now .. but I am open to comments still!
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      11-04-2018, 07:00 PM   #3
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If the bleed screw on the clutch slave cylinder is facing down it is very difficult to get all of the air out. You have to remove it from the car but still attached push the plunger down all of the way with a small c-clamp. They actually make a tool for this, and then use you power bleeder. But if you got your clutch to work I would leave it alone.
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      11-04-2018, 07:57 PM   #4
pjr710
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raptorman5174 View Post
If the bleed screw on the clutch slave cylinder is facing down it is very difficult to get all of the air out. You have to remove it from the car but still attached push the plunger down all of the way with a small c-clamp. They actually make a tool for this, and then use you power bleeder. But if you got your clutch to work I would leave it alone.
It's working and feels normal right now ... can it change?

Like I said I power bled it while having the the fluid in the tank and then it came out .. stopped .. then came out again for a consistent time.

After that I'm pretty sure I kept the bleeder on, then kept pushing my clutch pedal ... it felt retarded at first and went right down .. then i noticed it slightly was getting better. I had to pump the clutch pedal like 10+ times ... and then finally it felt like normal.

I then disconnected the power bleeder ... took out the excess fluid ... then put the OEM cap on the master cylinder.

From there I held my breath and turned my car on when it was on the jack stands to see if it would go in gear (lol it was pretty nerve racking)..

But then it went into gear no problem tires spun, brakes worked.

Then I drove for a good 15 minute drive and all seems normal.
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      11-04-2018, 07:59 PM   #5
Efthreeoh
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My comment is, follow the tool manufacturer's directions. Motive says to bleed with the pressure vessel half full of brake fluid.
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission.
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      11-04-2018, 08:33 PM   #6
pjr710
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
My comment is, follow the tool manufacturer's directions. Motive says to bleed with the pressure vessel half full of brake fluid.
i was being overly cautious .. i heard people say they use it without fluid and it works fine .. it's just the clutch line must be really high up in the master cylinder .. so you need the fluid in the bleeder to keep it constantly flowing through the clutch line
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      11-05-2018, 06:19 AM   #7
Efthreeoh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pjr710 View Post
i was being overly cautious .. i heard people say they use it without fluid and it works fine .. it's just the clutch line must be really high up in the master cylinder .. so you need the fluid in the bleeder to keep it constantly flowing through the clutch line
I'm not flaming here, but I just don't understand why when people buy a $50+ brake bleed tool they don't use it as the manufacturer intended. I've been bleeding brakes on cars for 35 years or more and never used a pressure bleeder (well unless you count my wife as a pressure bleeder - aren't they all ) until I tried to bleed the E90 clutch a few years ago. I followed Motive's instructions to the T and never had a problem with it.

My 2 cents.
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission.
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      11-05-2018, 08:07 AM   #8
pjr710
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
I'm not flaming here, but I just don't understand why when people buy a $50+ brake bleed tool they don't use it as the manufacturer intended. I've been bleeding brakes on cars for 35 years or more and never used a pressure bleeder (well unless you count my wife as a pressure bleeder - aren't they all ) until I tried to bleed the E90 clutch a few years ago. I followed Motive's instructions to the T and never had a problem with it.

My 2 cents.
because it was a smart thing to do if you are a precautious person. the bleeder works without having to fill up the motive tank. you have to keep checking the master cylinder but thats it.

some other advantages are that you wouldn't have to clean it.

i saw lots of people have leaking brake fluid, and tops pop off ... enough to make me crawl before i run with it.
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      11-08-2018, 06:12 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pjr710 View Post
because it was a smart thing to do if you are a precautious person. the bleeder works without having to fill up the motive tank. you have to keep checking the master cylinder but thats it.

some other advantages are that you wouldn't have to clean it.

i saw lots of people have leaking brake fluid, and tops pop off ... enough to make me crawl before i run with it.
The Motive instructions say to attach the brake reservoir cap fitting to the reservoir, then dry-pressure test the connection to make sure the fitting is correctly installed on the reservoir (i.e. the pressure in the pressure vessel does not drop off). Once the cap fitting is verified to be installed correctly and leak free, then open the pressure vessel, bleed off the pressure, and add the brake fluid to the pressure vessel. Use only 18 PSI. This precautionary pre-step avoids making a mess. The whole point of filling the pressure vessel is to avoid having to check the master reservoir level (like when you are under the car bleeding the clutch). It takes only 5 minutes to clean the power bleeder with denatured alcohol.

Writing that all from memory. If I can remember it, it MUST be an easy procedure to follow . The first time I used mine I did find it is easy to mis-thread the cap fitting. One has to be diligent when installing the fitting. I bought the aluminum fittings rather than the plastic fittings. I'd think the plastic fittings would thread easier, but that's just a guess.
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission.
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