[hassmaschine]

No. It only measures pressure, it doesn't measure temperature. On the N54/N55, I suppose it does both (TMAP?)

MAP stands for Manifold Absolute Pressure (which you may already know). On the N52 it is more of a reference point / sanity check since most of the time it's always going to be 1 bar (depending on altitude).

[vilord]

Then I wonder wtf the car/ISTA+ means when it says I need to replace my "MAP Temp Sensor"?

[justin_e92]

Hi all, this is my first post here on e90post. I just wanted to thank BimmerLabs for the tune and the support. I flashed the tune successfully last week and have been running it for a week with no issues. I am just waiting on adaptations to be relearned before my inspection/emissions test in a couple weeks- last time I checked over the weekend everything was good-to-go except EVAP. Anyways, the tune feels great and I'm looking forward to the possibility of being able to edit the maps and tune the car further myself. Big thanks to BimmerLabs!

[hassmaschine]

Originally Posted by vilord

Then I wonder wtf the car/ISTA+ means when it says I need to replace my "MAP Temp Sensor"?

it's just a generic error code description for the MAP sensor - the N52, N53, N54, etc. all use the same error codes.

[Jagaer]

Installed the 3IM 2 weeks ago, and only got around to performing the BimmerLabs tune last night.

Install went really smoothly, took about 5 minutes to flash the 0pa with the ICOM and 1 minute for the 0da

Since I didn't have WinKFP installed in the same location, I needed to modify the script and added a variable line to the top, to make it easier to change the path. (Only have to change the variable, instead of a half dozen times in the batch file)

SET KFP_Location=C:\EC-APPS\NFS\

Following the flash, a metric load of codes were reported by INPA (~20). All were able to be immediately cleared except the 2FA3. (I was a bit lazy, and haven't loaded NCS Expert to recode blank - Instructions here: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...8&postcount=37)

I'm running on a 2011 328xi, and the oil level did not change from before the flash.

Very happy with the tune, and wanted to express my appreciation.

[hassmaschine]

Glad it went smoothly - yeah, I already confirmed the 328xi also used the same tune as the 328i, so I wouldn't expect issues.

[mad1stgen]

Having used this 128i->130i flash successfully on my 1er (which really transformed the car), I am itching to upgrade to 3IM on one of my 328xi wagons.
It might be just a temp thing though, so what steps/precautions should I take to be able to flash back to stock 328xi file if needed in the future ?

[hassmaschine]

There will be stock flashes available soon if you wanted to go back. But I don't know why you would.

Also, we're considering adding a feature so that the flash would be undetectable by a dealer or shop. It would have the same UIF and CVN (checksum) as stock. Unless they read out the whole binary and check it by hand they would never know.

[Bufalo]

I've had some errors and now a car that won't start, and so I've very obviously done something very wrong here. Can anyone tell me what my next step is to get the flashes AND THE CAR to work?

[hassmaschine]

Originally Posted by Bufalo

I've had some errors and now a car that won't start, and so I've very obviously done something very wrong here. Can anyone tell me what my next step is to get the flashes AND THE CAR to work?

Greg,

Don't panic - it's probably something simple.

1) is your ignition turned on? The DME will run the erase procedure, but it can't flash with the ignition off.
2) did you disable boot sector update in the WinKFP options per my instructions?
3) do you have any other BMW programs running in the background?
4) did you verify that your cable was working by connecting to it with INPA, etc? Cable is set to Com1, etc?

You can always re-start the flash. The boot code doesn't get deleted in the erase procedure, so it's pretty much impossible to brick it. Verify the things above, and retry.

FYI, it's normal that the car won't start after a program write, even if it succeeds - the erase procedure also clears the parameter space, you will need to flash the 0da/tune before it will start.

[Bufalo]

I cycled the ignition and waited a few minutes. The RSA delete is running properly right now - thanks for the fast response! I had verified all else previously, INPA was active in the background so I closed out of it.


Edit - and all is well and working as it should!

[hassmaschine]

New feature - you can download your ZB# (stock tune) as a zip file (batch WinKFP flash), raw 0da, or as a binary (supported DMEs include MS45, MSx70, MSx80, MSD81, MSS60/MSS65, and a few more I forget).

[The Nightman]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

the MAP sensor is just a MAP sensor. the IAT is built into the MAF. If you get a euro IAT, it replaces the MAF.

it looks like several people have downloaded it but I haven't had any feedback. I think it will work fine (keeping in mind it will not past an OBD2 emissions test).

You should be able to test it with your factory MAF, it will just ignore the sensor reading. If there's some major problem, just go back to the original 328i-330i tune, it only takes 40 seconds to flash anyway.

Also I don't recommend a no-MAF tune if you have headers. At least not until the feedback loop gets sorted for the different O2 sensor position.

I'm thinking of giving the no-MAF tune a try. The European IAT I have is 13627547822 and is the only version as far as I can tell so it should work?




Also, you mentioned that the throttle was "jumpy" in an older post (link). Is that still the case?

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

I've been running the MAF delete tune for a few days ago - driven almost 300 miles on it. There's definitely something to it, especially it seems at lowish RPM - 1500-2500 seems like there's a lot more than before. Can't say there's a big peak difference, but I haven't dyno'd it yet.

Driveability wise, it's pretty smooth, starts and idles just like stock (because, well, it's all factory settings) - but I think the bump in low end torque makes it feel a little more "jumpy", as in throttle tip-in is more responsive than it was before. I'll probably end up getting used to it, or I could maybe smooth it out with a little throttle remapping. Not sure if it's the different algorithm being used, or if it's the reduced restriction, or both.

[Blueeyesredpanda]

Originally Posted by freedomfries

I'm thinking of giving the no-MAF tune a try. The European IAT I have is 13627547822 and is the only version as far as I can tell so it should work?




Also, you mentioned that the throttle was "jumpy" in an older post (link). Is that still the case?

Let me fix this for you.

I'm going to give the no-MAF tune a try. I have the European IAT 13627547822 and it should work.




Also, you mentioned that the throttle was "jumpy" in an older post (link). I will report back when the flash is done.

[hassmaschine]

Originally Posted by freedomfries

I'm thinking of giving the no-MAF tune a try. The European IAT I have is 13627547822 and is the only version as far as I can tell so it should work?

Yes, that will work fine. In fact, you dont even need it to run the no-maf tune - it just wont use the airflow measurement, and obviously it blocks a bit more of the air path.

Also, you mentioned that the throttle was "jumpy" in an older post (link). Is that still the case?

I think it smoothed out. At least, I have been driving with it for almost 18 months now and it seems smooth and responsive, but not jumpy. I don't even remember posting that, lol.

FYI my wife also drives my car, and she never knew any difference. IMO, its perfect combined with a 6 speed - I can literally drop down to idle in 1st or 2nd gear in traffic, so i hardly need to use the clutch or brakes in stop & go. The MAF tune can't do that because the air velocity is too low for the sensor to work properly - it bucks and jerks below ~1200rpm.

[The Nightman]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

Yes, that will work fine. In fact, you dont even need it to run the no-maf tune - it just wont use the airflow measurement, and obviously it blocks a bit more of the air path.



I think it smoothed out. At least, I have been driving with it for almost 18 months now and it seems smooth and responsive, but not jumpy. I don't even remember posting that, lol.

FYI my wife also drives my car, and she never knew any difference. IMO, its perfect combined with a 6 speed - I can literally drop down to idle in 1st or 2nd gear in traffic, so i hardly need to use the clutch or brakes in stop & go. The MAF tune can't do that because the air velocity is too low for the sensor to work properly - it bucks and jerks below ~1200rpm.

Thanks for the info. Should I reset adaptations after flashing?

[_Ryan_]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

Yes, that will work fine. In fact, you dont even need it to run the no-maf tune - it just wont use the airflow measurement, and obviously it blocks a bit more of the air path.



I think it smoothed out. At least, I have been driving with it for almost 18 months now and it seems smooth and responsive, but not jumpy. I don't even remember posting that, lol.

FYI my wife also drives my car, and she never knew any difference. IMO, its perfect combined with a 6 speed - I can literally drop down to idle in 1st or 2nd gear in traffic, so i hardly need to use the clutch or brakes in stop & go. The MAF tune can't do that because the air velocity is too low for the sensor to work properly - it bucks and jerks below ~1200rpm.

Interesting.

Have you observed any other benefits/trade-offs from the MAFless tune?
Also, have you found a way to tweak the responsiveness of the throttle? It'd be great if the delay could be reduced.

[hassmaschine]

Originally Posted by freedomfries

Thanks for the info. Should I reset adaptations after flashing?

It's fine to do, unless you're planning on getting an emissions inspection within the next month or so, because it also resets emissions monitors, then I would wait. Also you must do this with the ignition on (but car turned off) and you'll probably have to clear error codes and restart after the first startup.

Originally Posted by _Ryan_

Interesting.

Have you observed any other benefits/trade-offs from the MAFless tune?
Also, have you found a way to tweak the responsiveness of the throttle? It'd be great if the delay could be reduced.

Pretty much what I wrote above. There's probably a small bump in power, but otherwise I can't ever have a MAF failure.

The throttle would be pretty easy to tweak. Is your car 6mt or auto? I haven't noticed any real 'lag' with the 6mt, but I think a lot of it comes from the custom tune.

[Taskmaster]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

It's fine to do, unless you're planning on getting an emissions inspection within the next month or so, because it also resets emissions monitors, then I would wait. Also you must do this with the ignition on (but car turned off) and you'll probably have to clear error codes and restart after the first startup.



Pretty much what I wrote above. There's probably a small bump in power, but otherwise I can't ever have a MAF failure.

The throttle would be pretty easy to tweak. Is your car 6mt or auto? I haven't noticed any real 'lag' with the 6mt, but I think a lot of it comes from the custom tune.

BPC had issues trying to adjust the throttle -

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...1447926&page=3

Long and short was the Sprint Booster caused a torque overflow issue - adjusting the throttle tip in on the tune did as well? I think this is just because the MILVS are producing so much more torque than normal...

[hassmaschine]

torque overflow errors are common when actually increasing torque on these motors - but those are relatively simple to solve. I wouldn't expect altering the throttle curve (which is literally just a single value which defines the slope) to have a large effect but it might be necessary to adjust some of the torque monitoring maps.

[Jonas225]

Hi @hassmaschine,

I didn‘t read all 89 pages but maybe you can answer a few questions. It‘s for my better understanding. I‘m familiar with coding but not with mapping (yet).
I read a lot of the xHP thread and the RSA signature, whichs is used for (some) ECUs.

Some have a 512-bit and some have a 1024-bit signature.

1. Which ECU has which signature?

The 512-bit signing key is now known and we (you) can sign a modified 0da file.

2. What about the 1024- bit signature? How does xHP sign/bypass their custom files? How did they crack that 1024-bit signature and sign their files?

At Bimmerlabs there are 0pa files with RSA delete.

3. What is changed in this file? Why doesn‘t WinKFP reject to flash the modified 0da file?

For modifying the 0da files we have to convert is to .bins or read the ECU.

4. Is there a tool to convert the modified .bin to a 0da file again? Where can I download that tool?
5. Is there also a tool for signing these modified files?

I have a 2011 BMW 116i E87 here with MSD81 and N43B20 engine and want to upgrade the software to get the same power as the 118i (complete same hardware). As far as I know I can modify the power class of a 118i 0da to match the power class stored in CAS.

6. Is that right? Will there be support for that engine in Bimmerlabs?

The engine (N43B20) is the same for the 116i/118i/120i. The 116i and 118i has the same hardware. The 120i has a different intake manifold (2 stage), different camshaft, exhaust manifold,...

So upgrading to OEM 118i software should be safe.

[hassmaschine]

Originally Posted by Jonas225

Hi @hassmaschine,

I didn‘t read all 89 pages but maybe you can answer a few questions. It‘s for my better understanding. I‘m familiar with coding but not with mapping (yet).
I read a lot of the xHP thread and the RSA signature, whichs is used for (some) ECUs.

Some have a 512-bit and some have a 1024-bit signature.

1. Which ECU has which signature?

The 512-bit signing key is now known and we (you) can sign a modified 0da file.

The ZF trans uses 512 bits - GM uses 1024 bits. Aside from MS45, all of the DMEs that use RSA are at least 1024 bit.

2. What about the 1024- bit signature? How does xHP sign/bypass their custom files? How did they crack that 1024-bit signature and sign their files?

Basically they are modifying RAM values with a special command to bypass the signature check. I'll bet the new N55 OBD-only flashes do something similar.

On the transmissions the program is compressed, so it's not possible to disassemble and hack the code like we did for the other DMEs, which is why they do it that way. With the ZF, we don't need to bypass the RSA signature check since the signature is valid anyway.

At Bimmerlabs there are 0pa files with RSA delete.

3. What is changed in this file? Why doesn‘t WinKFP reject to flash the modified 0da file?

The main changes are to disable the RSA signature check on future flashes (program or parameter). WinKFP doesn't reject the flash because of security holes in Siemen's implementation of the RSA signature. Basically, it thinks the signature is valid even though it's not, because we have constructed the file to trick the signature check algorithm.

For modifying the 0da files we have to convert is to .bins or read the ECU.

4. Is there a tool to convert the modified .bin to a 0da file again? Where can I download that tool?
5. Is there also a tool for signing these modified files?

The tool is built into Bimmerlabs. I don't have it fully exposed to the public yet - if we have the RSA key, it already signs the file for you, there's no separate program for that. I'm still deciding how exactly making it available to everyone will work.

I have a 2011 BMW 116i E87 here with MSD81 and N43B20 engine and want to upgrade the software to get the same power as the 118i (complete same hardware). As far as I know I can modify the power class of a 118i 0da to match the power class stored in CAS.

6. Is that right? Will there be support for that engine in Bimmerlabs?

The engine (N43B20) is the same for the 116i/118i/120i. The 116i and 118i has the same hardware. The 120i has a different intake manifold (2 stage), different camshaft, exhaust manifold,...

So upgrading to OEM 118i software should be safe.

I have looked at that a little bit and I think it is possible to do. But basically yes, you could change the power class on the 118i file and flash it to your 116i. Bimmerlabs could support it providing I knew which file it needed to be (not hard to find) and assuming I know the location of the power class byte and have an RSA delete for your specific program version.