[scanspeak]

Originally Posted by Ruddigger

Actually, he's right. This is technically not a dye, which was his point.

After using the product I have to agree.

[scanspeak]

I decided to get a professional in to repair some of the damaged vinyl while the door trim is apart. Happy with the results .
http://newliferepairs.com.au/

[scanspeak]

After 4 coats of Furniture Clinic's matt clear-coat using the wipe on method the result is not totally matt, I would call it "low sheen".
It looks and feels virtually stock. The only giveaway is the stitching with looks coated and has a harder feel.

[steamboat]

Nice work OP. "Dye" is a misnomer. The product is a topcoat applied to the leather to color it. Fun fact, most leather is treated this way in automobiles.

The following link shows this process on a Pagani Huayra. Fast forward to 9:50

I'm in the process of doing the same thing to an m3 interior which uses nappa leather, but I chose leatherworldtech's products. Their imola is an actual imola, not coral.

I chose to completely strip the leather down to the natural hide to remove as much of the old topcoat as possible, so I could apply the new coats thicker without losing the natural grain of the leather. It's an arduous process that's taken way longer than anticipated, but the results are wonderful, and very unique.

[scanspeak]

Great video. I hope you'll put up some pics of your project at some stage. I would love to see how the nappa leather looks.
Yes the process is very arduous and requires a full commitment of time and energy.

[scanspeak]

First piece complete.
I did not coat this section with matt clearcoat as it will barely be touched. A simple rub down with Prep Wash and then Pristine Clean using a damp micofibre cloth took the shine down and gave a nicer feel.
*EDIT - later decided to coat it with 3 coats of 50% matt-clear as it gives a more even and soft low sheen.

A few points to note:
1. If at all possible avoid using masking tape as it can peel some of the coating when removed (as happened to me in a couple of places). Thankfully it's not too hard to fix, just time wasting.
2. When brushing the stitching always go in the same direction so that the stitching stays flat rather than getting "hairy".
3. Each piece of leather can vary a little in hardness, texture and absorption and must be treated accordingly.
4. Depending on the lighting the color can take on a earthy brown, to bright red to a burgundy hue.
5. The front door speakers are different to the rear speakers.










For reference here's the comparatively plain looking original.

[Ruddigger]

The red looks killer with the aluminum.

[scanspeak]

To create a better finish with less brush strokes on these corner pieces after dyeing I used 4 coats of matt clear diluted with 50% water. i also used a hair dryer to speed things up and this seems to help give a more matt appearance.

Very pleased with the results and this is the technique I will probably use for the rest of the project (4-6 x 50% coats for high-wear areas).

[_ink]

Wow mate, this is an epic project!

Mad props to you! From a fellow Aussie!

I'd really like to tackle the flaking door handles.. But it will involve irreversible damage to the plastiwelds holding the door card in place correct?

[CQM F80]

that comes out so nice!! if my interior wasn't red already that would be a project I would be willing to take on! great job on it!!

[Drifter2090]

Wow this is such a cool project, I didnt know this was possible, but I am glad I got coral red already haha

[scanspeak]

Originally Posted by _ink

Wow mate, this is an epic project!

Mad props to you! From a fellow Aussie!

I'd really like to tackle the flaking door handles.. But it will involve irreversible damage to the plastiwelds holding the door card in place correct?

It can definitely be done. I'll provide details on doing this next week while working on the doors.

Cheers

[Manberg]

Every picture of the process you post makes me want to do this to my interior. Again, great work!

[Weezey]

Originally Posted by scanspeak

It can definitely be done. I'll provide details on doing this next week while working on the doors.

Cheers

Looking forward to this. I, too have flaking door pulls and have heard it can be difficult to remove without permanently damaging them.

I'm subscribing to this awesome thread. I have the light grey Dakota leather that is even more boring than black. I'd love to tackle this now that I've seen your results. Great write up!

[scanspeak]

A bit more progress. I will let the doors thoroughly dry and cure for several days before reassembly.

[steamboat]

Here's a shot of a rear seat prior top coat. I can't remember how many coats, and may have put more on after. Also, I took off the covers, so the seat will look more plush once it's back on the frame.

[scanspeak]

Are you using Leatherique? What topcoat are you using?

[steamboat]

Leatherworldtech's products. Theirs is a 2-3 stage colorant kit. Base is obv color, followed by optional sealant for heavy wear spots like seats, and a finish top coat. I chose satin, but haven't tested it yet. May end up going with matte if it doesn't match oem.

[scanspeak]

Semi-aniline nappa leather in your car? I think that matt looks the most OEM.

[steamboat]

Yes, or rather it will be I currently have black Dakota, but the interior I'm coloring is from an m3 donor car which has semi-analine Nappa.

[scanspeak]

Meanwhile I decided to fit some caliper covers from MGP Caliper Covers.
http://www.calipercovers.com/

These are powdercoated aluminium with stainless steel brackets.

[Ruddigger]

200 bucks for fake calipers?!