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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > All-Wheel-Drive (Xi / xDrive) Talk > Control Arm Bushing Upgrade for XI?



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      09-10-2015, 05:16 PM   #67
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Thanks I'm def going to look into getting a upgraded front bar. I Wanted to get a m3 one but heard it doesn't fit on xi. Somehow brentuning was able to make it fit on his pre lci e90 335xi and he had a e93 one on at that. Are you going to upgrade the front diff as well ?
I'm not aware of any other bar besides UUC that fits an XI, and I don't see how you could make a e93 bar fit, or any other non-XI but maybe it is possible. I'm not aware of any front diff upgrade or a need for one frankly. The issue with the rear is just you like to have a real mechanical LSD instead of the e-diff thing, esp given increased power levels. I don't think people put LSD's in front diffs as steering would be interfered with.

It would be nice to have a transfer case upgrade if one existed, more for function than strength (like a true center diff for example that you could turn on/off or set at a %). All in all the AWD components on XI seems pretty robust if pretty simple. You read about a few TC and front diff failures but it doesn't seem correlated with higher power levels. IIRC the guy who ran 11.3 1/4 mile in his XI at 600+ AWHP broke his front driveshaft and axles on a 1.5 sec 60 ft time for example, but not the TC or diff. People break rear axles all the time too.

AT is weak above 500-550 WTQ if you have one, and people have been desperately looking for a fix for that for years. TCU is heavily encrypted though. But that is an issue with RWD too.
I was one of those had that replaced my front diff. It just went bad out of nowhere smh
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      09-11-2015, 11:28 AM   #68
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I was one of those had that replaced my front diff. It just went bad out of nowhere smh
Ouch that sucks. Do you know what part of it failed? There was a rumor some came with too little oil from the factory.
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      09-11-2015, 12:43 PM   #69
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The 1.4x 60 ft guy also did break his diff. He was looking into getting a custom one made for extra strength sense no one makes an after market. At least that's the last thing I read in that thread, never saw him post if he found someone to make him one or not.

If he did I'd be interested in one, though he admitted he had a fair amount of front wheel hop which is what will really break that stuff. These bushings and a stiffer front sway bar will reduce front wheel hop, along with stiffer shocks.
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      09-11-2015, 01:28 PM   #70
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So he broke the diff, axles, and driveshaft all on that one run? Wow.
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      09-11-2015, 04:44 PM   #71
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I was one of those had that replaced my front diff. It just went bad out of nowhere smh
Ouch that sucks. Do you know what part of it failed? There was a rumor some came with too little oil from the factory.
Broken diff
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      09-11-2015, 04:45 PM   #72
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Originally Posted by ajsalida
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I was one of those had that replaced my front diff. It just went bad out of nowhere smh
Ouch that sucks. Do you know what part of it failed? There was a rumor some came with too little oil from the factory.
Broken diff
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      09-12-2015, 09:44 AM   #73
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That looks bad. Hope you haven't had any problems since.

To update my fluid/grease leak issue, it looks like I do in fact have a bad inner CV boot driver's side. I cannot find the leak visually yet (after many attempts) but there just isn't any other possibility. After installing the Strongflex in the Tension Struts, I went for a few high speed runs and I still have grease leaking out from somewhere.

The one TS bushing was also leaking, no doubt about that. But if that were the only problem I should not see any more grease, esp after carefully cleaning it off of the boots and everywhere else with brake cleaner after the Strongflex bushing install. It seems like it only shows up after high speed JB4 logging runs, so it may be a tiny crack that only leaks over 100 mph or so, then gets spun around and splattered. No noises or grinding clicking etc. when turning wheels by hand. Will probably replace the whole assembly with a new DSS axle and not just do the boot repair (which is even more work than replacing the axle).

To recap all this started after a particularly hard pot hole hit. Afterwards the TS bushing was leaking badly, and only the bushing, then the other grease started to slowly show up. So appears the hit was hard enough to damage at least two components. I'd rather replace the whole axle than just do the harder boot repair and find out later the axle or CV joint itself is also toast.

It turns out DSS axles are significantly cheaper than OEM, $109 shipped. Even rebuilt OEM are in the $800 range. Will replace control arms when I do the axle. Now to gather more specialty tools including a better ball joint tool because you have to remove the TS and CA links at the hub to do the axle.

Last edited by ajsalida; 09-12-2015 at 09:49 AM..
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      09-12-2015, 10:15 AM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajsalida
That looks bad. Hope you haven't had any problems since.

To update my fluid/grease leak issue, it looks like I do in fact have a bad inner CV boot driver's side. I cannot find the leak visually yet (after many attempts) but there just isn't any other possibility. After installing the Strongflex in the Tension Struts, I went for a few high speed runs and I still have grease leaking out from somewhere.

The one TS bushing was also leaking, no doubt about that. But if that were the only problem I should not see any more grease, esp after carefully cleaning it off of the boots and everywhere else with brake cleaner after the Strongflex bushing install. It seems like it only shows up after high speed JB4 logging runs, so it may be a tiny crack that only leaks over 100 mph or so, then gets spun around and splattered. No noises or grinding clicking etc. when turning wheels by hand. Will probably replace the whole assembly with a new DSS axle and not just do the boot repair (which is even more work than replacing the axle).

To recap all this started after a particularly hard pot hole hit. Afterwards the TS bushing was leaking badly, and only the bushing, then the other grease started to slowly show up. So appears the hit was hard enough to damage at least two components. I'd rather replace the whole axle than just do the harder boot repair and find out later the axle or CV joint itself is also toast.

It turns out DSS axles are significantly cheaper than OEM, $109 shipped. Even rebuilt OEM are in the $800 range. Will replace control arms when I do the axle. Now to gather more specialty tools including a better ball joint tool because you have to remove the TS and CA links at the hub to do the axle.
Take a pic and post it
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      09-14-2015, 06:49 PM   #75
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Watch it on those pot holes. I didnt break a boot or any bushings, but for sure I've broken head lights. The little plastic pieces that let them move up down and left right broke on me.
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      09-15-2015, 04:21 PM   #76
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Watch it on those pot holes. I didnt break a boot or any bushings, but for sure I've broken head lights. The little plastic pieces that let them move up down and left right broke on me.
I think we all have broken headlight tabs lol
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      09-15-2015, 06:50 PM   #77
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Watch it on those pot holes. I didnt break a boot or any bushings, but for sure I've broken head lights. The little plastic pieces that let them move up down and left right broke on me.
This was a sneaky pothole that they filled badly before winter and I guess the fill collapsed so it is still smooth but deep. It's right at the apex of one of my favorite corners, low light situation, BAM.

Normally I have them all mapped in my head to avoid but I just plain forgot about this nasty guy.

Pretty much resigned to replacing the axle assembly at this point, will take some pics before, during, and after.
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      10-27-2015, 08:36 PM   #78
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Just wanted to pile on the Strong Flex thrust arm bushing replacement comments. I just replaced mine as well. What a huge difference in braking stability, cornering stability, turn in feel, and steering feel. Admittedly my driver side bushing was shot to the point of clunking on low speed bumps - but the improvement is really worth it. I changed the ball joints as well since I have 105k+ miles on the clock and no service history from the previous owner. They needed to soak overnight with a lot of PB Blaster to get loose just in case you are considering doing them as well. Really worth the $70 to replace the worn stock bushings with the Strong Flex.
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      10-28-2015, 11:20 AM   #79
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The Strongflex are surely an upgrade to the squishy, fluid-filled bushings. And these sealed bearings are surely an upgrade to the still-compliant poly Strongflex bushings:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1186611

I ran these sealed heim joints at the track last weekend. Absolutely an entirely new personality when piloting the car. Surgically precise turn-in, zero play, and no added NVH.

My rear suspension is all M3 control links and bushings. The M3 bits are an upgrade over the stock xDrive bits. But if I could do it over, I would skip the M3 stuff and move straight to heim joints all around, front and rear. And I would do these near the top, after non-RFT tires and light rims, coilovers, and at the same time as RSBs.

These are higher-spec than Strongflex or M3 bushings, do not require lubrication, won't wear out, manufactured in Germany, and are the most effective fix for removing compliance from the critical xDrive front control arms
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      10-28-2015, 01:11 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tetsuo111
The Strongflex are surely an upgrade to the squishy, fluid-filled bushings. And these sealed bearings are surely an upgrade to the still-compliant poly Strongflex bushings:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1186611

I ran these sealed heim joints at the track last weekend. Absolutely an entirely new personality when piloting the car. Surgically precise turn-in, zero play, and no added NVH.

My rear suspension is all M3 control links and bushings. The M3 bits are an upgrade over the stock xDrive bits. But if I could do it over, I would skip the M3 stuff and move straight to heim joints all around, front and rear. And I would do these near the top, after non-RFT tires and light rims, coilovers, and at the same time as RSBs.

These are higher-spec than Strongflex or M3 bushings, do not require lubrication, won't wear out, manufactured in Germany, and are the most effective fix for removing compliance from the critical xDrive front control arms
How much for these and where to buy them from ?
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      10-30-2015, 02:26 PM   #81
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How much for these and where to buy them from ?
All information included in the link above.

Contact Dave at Syncro Design in GA.
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      11-14-2015, 05:07 PM   #82
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This was a sneaky pothole that they filled badly before winter and I guess the fill collapsed so it is still smooth but deep. It's right at the apex of one of my favorite corners, low light situation, BAM.

Normally I have them all mapped in my head to avoid but I just plain forgot about this nasty guy.

Pretty much resigned to replacing the axle assembly at this point, will take some pics before, during, and after.
Updating this comment. I finally got around to replacing the driver's side axle. Cured most or all of the funny road noise. The axle had started binding progressively more and more so I really needed to get it done before winter hits up here, which is like Monday!

Some slight steering tightness on that side is gone too. I test drove it on roads where previously the road noise was so bad you could barely hear the stereo, all that is gone and just normal tire noise. I think the bearings in the old axle were about done, and most of the grease had leaked out. Plan to take it apart and see if it can be rebuilt for a spare.

Did not end up being able to take any pics for a DIY, got too jammed with winter coming. Had to do the job over 3 days squeezing it in between other domestic winter house prep stuff. Was fortunate in that not too much was frozen or rusted on, and the spline shaft slipped into the wheel carrier with zero effort. Seating the shaft into the diff was a bit of a headache, as was getting the old one out of the diff and the hub. Just used a 3 jaw gear puller on the latter, using wheel spacers bolted onto the hub to grip it. But no exotic special BMW tools needed. Anyway, it's done!

I also replaced the lower control arm on that side so that may have had something to do with the improved noise situation and steering. Expensive pothole! Glad this is over.

Last edited by ajsalida; 11-14-2015 at 05:19 PM..
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      11-14-2015, 10:55 PM   #83
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Glad you got it all figured out and fixed. I hope I don't have the same issue from the potholes I hit, but I wouldn't doubt it. It does seem a bit noisy now once the car is rolling. Did you have a whining noise as well? I think I hear a little whine coming from the front driver's side, and I don't know if it's me but the car feels slower to get up and go, and slower in general.

What are the symptoms of a bad axle? I know a CV joint knocks, but I never had to replace an axle.

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      11-15-2015, 05:49 AM   #84
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Glad you got it all figured out and fixed. I hope I don't have the same issue from the potholes I hit, but I wouldn't doubt it. It does seem a bit noisy now once the car is rolling. Did you have a whining noise as well? I think I hear a little whine coming from the front driver's side, and I don't know if it's me but the car feels slower to get up and go, and slower in general.

What are the symptoms of a bad axle? I know a CV joint knocks, but I never had to replace an axle.

Harry
Well in my car's case the primary symptom was grease everywhere from a torn inner CV joint boot. I had hoped the grease I was seeing was from the blown TS bushing. Some/most of it was at first but I fixed that (with Strongflex poly) but the grease kept coming out of a tiny tear in the CV boot. Multi-faceted problem.

I had a whining noise proprtional to road speed that originally seemed like tires but after fixing the TS bushing noise steadily got worse. Just the torn boot would have required replacing the axle assembly, but over time the loss of grease I'm sure contributed to the bearings going bad. On these axles repairing the boot is actually more involved than just swapping out the axle, which is itself not an easy job.

I kept an eye on the axle and every so often would jack up the car, turn the wheel, it kept getting harder to turn and binding more. No noise while turning the wheel by hand, just got stiffer. Removing the wheel could see more grease splattered around. Then no more new grease, which meant it was all gone so clearly only a matter of time before the bearings were going to seize up.

DSS axle (new) was only $109 shipped from BavAuto (compared to over $800 for rebuilt OEM!!!). So I went with that.

All told the pothole required new TS bushings (went with poly so both sides), new lower CA + and new axle assembly drivers side. I went with Lemforder on the CA, got both sides but only installed the L one for now. Getting the lower CA ball joint out is very hard with the axle in place, the top nut is right under the outer boot and recessed into the spindle, nearly impossible to get to, so I'm waiting to see if I need to replace the pass side axle before messing with it.
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      11-15-2015, 12:13 PM   #85
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Wow. I had RE replace both front LCA's and end links a few days ago. Got charged 1hr labor on top of the shock install fee. You 're right the left side is more clear and easier to work around the spindle than the right side.

Did you replace the TS ball joint with aftermarket or OE? I would like to replace my TS bushings with Strongflex, but not sure what to do with the ball joint. Any suggestions?

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      11-15-2015, 02:10 PM   #86
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I did not replace the TS ball joint on either side when I did the Strongflex bushings, they were fine. I used an ordinary 2-jaw puller to carefully remove the TS arm and tie rod ball joint from the spindle when I did the L axle so as not to damage them.

The comment about the CA ball joint top nut being hard to get to applies to both sides. It sits right under the outer CV joint boot, and the nut is recessed deep into the spindle casting snug on one side and around the base of the nut, so it is difficult/impossible to get a socket seated with a ratchet without crushing the boot out of the way. I couldn't. An ordinary box wrench won't fit in there either due to the nut being so close to the side of the spindle. I think they make a special thin wall offset wrench that fits but I don't have it. Once I had the axle out it was easy though. I used a pickle fork to remove the LCA ball joint from the spindle once the nut was off and that destroys it. A standard puller has nowhere to fit. I'm not sure I could get to the R hand side CA ball joint nut without damaging the boot, so I'll just leave it for now unless I find that special wrench somewhere.

Something interesting, the Lemforder lower CA's had a smaller ball joint top nut than OEM. OEM was 23 mm (15/16th's) and the Lemforder was 7/8ths. I don't know if the thread size was also different. Plus it was a true nylock nut and OEM was not. I think removing it again if needed will be easier.

This is a good DIY for the front wheel bearings, but it shows a lot of what you have to do to remove the axle and various CA's if needed. To do the axle you have to remove the brake disc, caliper & bracket, heat shield, then the TS arm, LCA, and tie rod ball joints from the spindle. Then pull off the wheel carrier. I actually removed the inner bolt and nut from the LCA at the subframe, left it hanging, and did not remove the LCA from the spindle until the axle was out due to the nut/boot clearance issue. I am glad I did not have to fab any special tools, though I did use a wheel spacer bolted to the carrier to have something to grab with a 3-jaw puller, to pull the carrier off the outer spline shaft on the axle. I was lucky there was no corrosion in the carrier or on the shaft. I did clean it up with a wire brush then lubed everything with axle grease. New axle slipped in by hand which was fortunate, you need a special tool to press it on if it won't. That would have sucked.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=870124

Last edited by ajsalida; 11-15-2015 at 02:33 PM..
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      02-23-2016, 02:59 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajsalida View Post
I did not replace the TS ball joint on either side when I did the Strongflex bushings, they were fine. I used an ordinary 2-jaw puller to carefully remove the TS arm and tie rod ball joint from the spindle when I did the L axle so as not to damage them.

The comment about the CA ball joint top nut being hard to get to applies to both sides. It sits right under the outer CV joint boot, and the nut is recessed deep into the spindle casting snug on one side and around the base of the nut, so it is difficult/impossible to get a socket seated with a ratchet without crushing the boot out of the way. I couldn't. An ordinary box wrench won't fit in there either due to the nut being so close to the side of the spindle. I think they make a special thin wall offset wrench that fits but I don't have it. Once I had the axle out it was easy though. I used a pickle fork to remove the LCA ball joint from the spindle once the nut was off and that destroys it. A standard puller has nowhere to fit. I'm not sure I could get to the R hand side CA ball joint nut without damaging the boot, so I'll just leave it for now unless I find that special wrench somewhere.

Something interesting, the Lemforder lower CA's had a smaller ball joint top nut than OEM. OEM was 23 mm (15/16th's) and the Lemforder was 7/8ths. I don't know if the thread size was also different. Plus it was a true nylock nut and OEM was not. I think removing it again if needed will be easier.

This is a good DIY for the front wheel bearings, but it shows a lot of what you have to do to remove the axle and various CA's if needed. To do the axle you have to remove the brake disc, caliper & bracket, heat shield, then the TS arm, LCA, and tie rod ball joints from the spindle. Then pull off the wheel carrier. I actually removed the inner bolt and nut from the LCA at the subframe, left it hanging, and did not remove the LCA from the spindle until the axle was out due to the nut/boot clearance issue. I am glad I did not have to fab any special tools, though I did use a wheel spacer bolted to the carrier to have something to grab with a 3-jaw puller, to pull the carrier off the outer spline shaft on the axle. I was lucky there was no corrosion in the carrier or on the shaft. I did clean it up with a wire brush then lubed everything with axle grease. New axle slipped in by hand which was fortunate, you need a special tool to press it on if it won't. That would have sucked.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=870124
Bumping an old post...

But if you weren't replacing the ball joint, why didn't you just leave the TS arm on the car, and press the bushing out with a cup/pusher type setup?

Is that not possible?
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      02-23-2016, 04:55 PM   #88
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Bumping an old post...

But if you weren't replacing the ball joint, why didn't you just leave the TS arm on the car, and press the bushing out with a cup/pusher type setup?

Is that not possible?
It took all of a 12 ton hydraulic press to get it out. I seriously doubt it could be done with the type of tool you are thinking of. I have a special cup tool and have used it for replacing e36 M3 RTAB, this e9x bushing was far more snug. It took multiple full-force pops to get each one out, I doubt you could get anywhere near that amount of force with a cup type tool and a wrench. But you're welcome to try though I would not advise it. And pressing new bushings in, man I would not want to do that under a car either. In my case they were the poly strongflex, and those have much large OD at the lip, the tool you used to remove OEM is not the one you use to press it in.
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