[toryjlarsen]

Hi guys,

So I guess mainly I am looking for reassurance on this. I recently replaced my old failed DMF along with a clutch kit, both are LUK. I am at the point where I am trying to get the transmission installed, however I am running into an issue. Every time I try to get the bell housing flush with the engine, I am left with about 1/4" or slightly more of a gap between the bell housing and engine. I cannot seem to get it flush with multiple tries it just stops at that same gap. Ive quadruple checked to make sure there is nothing inhibiting it from mating up (wires/connectors).... I cant seem to get the bell housing flush with the engine, any advice?

[neilvan]

You used a clutch alignment tool to make sure the disk was straight? have a tiny bit of grease on the splines on the trans?

[Brian86]

Keep trying. It'll go.

I did mine on jackstands, so it's not impossible. Getting the guide-rings to align for that last little push is a pain.

[toryjlarsen]

yep splines and bearings are greased, just tried again... this is what I am working with, see photo[IMG]undefined[/IMG]

[toryjlarsen]

Originally Posted by neilvan

You used a clutch alignment tool to make sure the disk was straight? have a tiny bit of grease on the splines on the trans?

yes also used alignment tool

[rjaudi]

On my 328i the alignment tool let the clutch disk move down from weight. When i bolted the flywheel up the disc was down a few mm. This was enough to keep my transmission from bolting up. Look at your disc and make sure it looks perfectly centered around the pressure plate.

[toryjlarsen]

Originally Posted by rjaudi

On my 328i the alignment tool let the clutch disk move down from weight. When i bolted the flywheel up the disc was down a few mm. This was enough to keep my transmission from bolting up. Look at your disc and make sure it looks perfectly centered around the pressure plate.

Double checked it, and it looks dead center to me.put the alignment tool back on to give myself some reassurance on that. I am baffled as to why the tranny is not going back on flush. Just spent another 3 hours trying to get it on with no success...

[toryjlarsen]

I mean I am seriously giving this thing a shit ton of push and wiggle when I'm trying to get it seated flush.

[toryjlarsen]

Originally Posted by toryjlarsen

I mean I am seriously giving this thing a shit ton of push and wiggle when I'm trying to get it seated flush.

So I decided to just re align the position the clutch..... and what do you know, the transmission slid right in the first time all flush! I am still a little confused because the alignment tool lined up the same exact way as the first time, but this time it worked. I went ahead and snugged up all of the bell housing bolts, next will be torquing them all down.

[IllSic_Design]

Originally Posted by toryjlarsen

So I decided to just re align the position the clutch..... and what do you know, the transmission slid right in the first time all flush! I am still a little confused because the alignment tool lined up the same exact way as the first time, but this time it worked. I went ahead and snugged up all of the bell housing bolts, next will be torquing them all down.

Glad you got it sorted. I was going to say, if its that close to the engine, it's just the splines not lining up so keep messing with it lol

[rjaudi]

Did you lock the self adjusting mechanism?

[toryjlarsen]

Originally Posted by IllSic_Design

Glad you got it sorted. I was going to say, if its that close to the engine, it's just the splines not lining up so keep messing with it lol

Thanks! I'm hoping for smooth sailing on it this evening when I get off work, gonna see if I can finish up and get the car started with fingers crossed tonight. Only issue I currently have is the 4 studs that I had to break off on the exhaust because they were incredibly corroded and the nuts would not budge on all 4.

[toryjlarsen]

Originally Posted by rjaudi

Did you lock the self adjusting mechanism?

lock the self adjusting mechanism before I loosened the clutch plate? I did not.... did I mess up by not locking it before I loosened it?

[toryjlarsen]

After reading around the forums... I now see that the SAC lock tool needs to be on before pressure plate reinstall...... well damn, anybody have any advice on how to get that lock (throwing star) back on the plate?

[rjaudi]

I cant remember exactly how I did it, but I remember using the lock ring that you remove from the pressure plate and a 3 prong puller.

[toryjlarsen]

his all so I took the transmission back off, take a look at this picture, correct me if I am wrong but if the SAC mechanism was let out, that means those yellowish springs would be decompressed correct? would me putting the locking tool back on change it at all?

[toryjlarsen]

also take a look at this picture, again correct me if I am wrong, but wouldn't this marking show the "locked" position, as in that's where it was when I took it out of the box?

[Brian86]

I know that feeling. Believe me, I've been there.

On my clutch job I installed the throwout collar clocked 90deg incorrectly. Left me in a mild panic attack. Of course the car was (mostly) back together by then, so I just went with it, and luckily the slave cylinder has adequate travel to compensate.


FWIW I think you're oK to put the gearbox on. At least that's what I'd do.

I'm going from memory, but yes, I agree that the painted matchmarks are showing the 'as factory' condition, and that your PP hasn't slipped out of position despite removal.

For reference I attached a pic of my 280k mile PP on the garage floor to see how the adjustment changes over time, or perhaps after removal.

[Brian86]

More specifically, now that I've thought about it a little.

I'd reinstall the transmission and slave cylinder first. Next, before putting the shift linkage on, I'd put it in gear, then reach down through the hole in the center console and operate the clutch and turn the transmission output shaft by hand.

If it seems like the clutch is engaging and disengaging normally, roll with it.

That'll provide some piece of mind when finishing the project.

-----------------

**Ninja Edit

I suspect, but have no proof, that the self adjusting mechanism doesn't typically 'move by itself'. That it only 'self adjusts' when it is activated by the TO bearing depressing the spring. The ninja star is a shipping precaution since severe vibration and abuse might cause it to slip.

The service manuals and internet in general is super cautious about ninja star protocol, for good reason... it would suck to ruin a PP by accident.

[toryjlarsen]

Brian thank you for your input, it was kinda the last thing I needed to hear to boost my motivation that the pressure plate was indeed ok in its position.

Great news, I got everything back together minus the heat shields and exhaust due to the studs on the exhaust being broken off.... I was able to start the car on jackstands, I was able to use the clutch to get into first gear and it worked, checked reverse, and success!
All that's left to do now is put the heat shields on and take it on a road test. I can't tell you how relieved I am to not hear the horrible smacking sound of the failed DMF. Now I just hope the road test tomorrow is a success. wish me luck guys!

[toryjlarsen]

The exhaust being off makes it sound ridiculously loud haha, gotta get it to a shop soon after to have them get those broken studs out.

[toryjlarsen]

Originally Posted by toryjlarsen

The exhaust being off makes it sound ridiculously loud haha, gotta get it to a shop soon after to have them get those broken studs out.

The long and drug out DMF and clutch replacement has been finished, the car is 100% back together and I took it for a ride a bit ago and it drove fantastic. Thank you to all who gave me pointers.