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      06-11-2021, 12:28 PM   #23
Processing61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by therealdb1 View Post
I would think what you have done is fine. Less chance of the car trying to overcharge your new battery if it thinks it is slightly lower capacity.
Chances are your old battery was being overcharged if it wasn't correctly matched to the charging system and was venting hence the "leakage" that you have noticed.
That’s true. And to make it worse the positive side vent wasn’t even connected, it was on the floor. So that probably would make things worse, if it was being overcharged too
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      06-13-2021, 02:33 PM   #24
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UPDATE:

Unfortunately I am still having the issue. The battery did need changing, it was showing low voltage on the dash, was reading low and was leaking acid, so it definitely needed to be done but it hasn’t fixed the problem.

Would the starter motor be the next place to look? I have managed to get a video (not the best) to see if it helps diagnose the issue. I will post it here soon
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      06-13-2021, 02:38 PM   #25
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https://streamable.com/nnnoes

Here is the video. Not the best example, I’ll see if I can get a better one soon
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      06-13-2021, 03:14 PM   #26
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Here is a better example

https://streamable.com/9m8ewv
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      06-13-2021, 03:51 PM   #27
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Now you have a decent battery my next step would be to use your INPA to see if you have any fault codes showing.
Probably worth making a note of any you have, clear them all, and then try and replicate the problem after taking the car for a drive. You may get residual codes coming back due to your low battery volts if you don't allow the car to use its normal checking mode.
I'm not saying it isn't starter related, but try inexpensive stuff first. There is also a relay which I believe can cause trouble which I have seen discussed on this forum before. That could be an issue if that is only making intermittent contact. It is a bit difficult to hear on the video but it sounds like something is clicking on each start attempt but only occasionally does the starter spin the engine.
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      06-13-2021, 05:10 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by therealdb1 View Post
Now you have a decent battery my next step would be to use your INPA to see if you have any fault codes showing.
Probably worth making a note of any you have, clear them all, and then try and replicate the problem after taking the car for a drive. You may get residual codes coming back due to your low battery volts if you don't allow the car to use its normal checking mode.
I'm not saying it isn't starter related, but try inexpensive stuff first. There is also a relay which I believe can cause trouble which I have seen discussed on this forum before. That could be an issue if that is only making intermittent contact. It is a bit difficult to hear on the video but it sounds like something is clicking on each start attempt but only occasionally does the starter spin the engine.
Great, thanks. I have already checked for fault codes and surprisingly there were none! Not sure if I believe it haha. I will check this again though and maybe get someone start start the car for me so I can record the sounds in the engine bay.

I was doing some reading/digging and I’ve seen people mention about a bad engine ground which can cause intermittent no starts and or slow starts.

I’ll check to see if there are any error/fault codes and if all is good I’ll start looking at the engine earth/ground and the relay and go from there
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      06-14-2021, 07:17 AM   #29
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Unless you would be able to recommend a better battery?
Nothing wrong with Yuasa, my OEM one is an Exide, there's also Bosch, Varta, etc which are all pretty much of a much and decent brands.

I'd happily have any of those provided they were the correct rating.
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      06-14-2021, 07:21 AM   #30
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So I did actually end up going for a powerline 019 AGM battery. I went for it before I read these replies, lol.

There was a few things that I read and preferred in terms of performance with AGM (if correct) but the main thing was that the previous lead acid/flooded had began to leak and started corroding the surface of the metal (maybe to do with the car not being coded for this battery? Or very old?) , so I’ve treated the surface rust and painted it to protect. I’d rather there would be no chance of that happening again. It ended up being £25 more than the yuasa.

https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batterie...iAAEgLLKfD_BwE
The car is not designed for an AGM battery though, I know my CTEK charger has different settings for AGM vs lead acid, so can the car actually charge it correctly?

I would assume there is an option to code this, but maybe not for a pre LCI car that never had AGM, only certain LCI cars had AGM batteries.

I'd also rather go for a known brand lead acid rather than a Powerline AGM, who I've never heard of, but it's a bit late if you've already bought it.
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      06-14-2021, 07:23 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Processing61 View Post
UPDATE:

Unfortunately I am still having the issue. The battery did need changing, it was showing low voltage on the dash, was reading low and was leaking acid, so it definitely needed to be done but it hasn’t fixed the problem.

Would the starter motor be the next place to look? I have managed to get a video (not the best) to see if it helps diagnose the issue. I will post it here soon
Well that's upsetting, now you have the fun of diagnosing what else is causing the starting issue.
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      06-14-2021, 10:25 AM   #32
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Well that's upsetting, now you have the fun of diagnosing what else is causing the starting issue.
A little late; bought, fitted and coded. Yeah, there is an option to code it for AGM within NCS. All coded correctly, working fine so far. I Will update if I have any problems with it; charging/short life problems etc. The slow starts/no starts aren't happening quite as much now but they still are occasionally.

Yes, lots of fun! Going to start with looking at the ground strap and replacing the ground if needed (seems to be a common problem), relay, starter motor and see where we are.
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      06-15-2021, 07:39 AM   #33
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Quote:
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A little late; bought, fitted and coded. Yeah, there is an option to code it for AGM within NCS. All coded correctly, working fine so far. I Will update if I have any problems with it; charging/short life problems etc. The slow starts/no starts aren't happening quite as much now but they still are occasionally.

Yes, lots of fun! Going to start with looking at the ground strap and replacing the ground if needed (seems to be a common problem), relay, starter motor and see where we are.
Good news that you can code a pre LCI for an AGM battery

Fingers crossed you get the starting issue resolved, issues like this really taint the ownership experience.

Ground strap I would expect to cause other issues as well, aside from the starting issue is everything else ok?
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      06-15-2021, 09:21 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich_D View Post
Good news that you can code a pre LCI for an AGM battery

Fingers crossed you get the starting issue resolved, issues like this really taint the ownership experience.

Ground strap I would expect to cause other issues as well, aside from the starting issue is everything else ok?
Thanks! It hasn't completely failed to start yet but when you've got to try 5+ times sometimes, that does get your bum clenching.

This hasn't happened in a while but every so often when driving with my headlights on they start flickering off and on and sometimes would eventually turn off. Usually turning the car off and on would help that. That hasn't happened in a while though; the last time was about 3 weeks ago. But that's the only other electrical type problem I can think of.

Last edited by Processing61; 06-15-2021 at 09:38 AM.. Reason: Headlights
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      06-15-2021, 09:31 AM   #35
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I have managed to get another video:

https://streamable.com/g7ep3p
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      06-16-2021, 06:46 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Processing61 View Post
Thanks! It hasn't completely failed to start yet but when you've got to try 5+ times sometimes, that does get your bum clenching.

This hasn't happened in a while but every so often when driving with my headlights on they start flickering off and on and sometimes would eventually turn off. Usually turning the car off and on would help that. That hasn't happened in a while though; the last time was about 3 weeks ago. But that's the only other electrical type problem I can think of.
That definitely sounds like something a dodgy earth could cause, so that would be the next thing on my list personally.

I'd also swap the starter solenoid for the sake of it, cheap, quick & easy to do.
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      06-18-2021, 03:39 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich_D View Post
That definitely sounds like something a dodgy earth could cause, so that would be the next thing on my list personally.

I'd also swap the starter solenoid for the sake of it, cheap, quick & easy to do.
Thanks. I'll definitely look at that next then.

I don't suppose there are any links on here or elsewhere showing how to replace the starter solenoid? I've Tried searching but couldn't find anything on the forum
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      06-21-2021, 07:27 AM   #38
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The solenoid could be attached to the starter motor thinking about it.
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