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      06-02-2018, 07:34 PM   #23
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So I just tried to reset the incremental wheel adaptations and it failed.

So am I right in assuming that my DDE software needs to be updated before I can proceed with resetting any of my adaptations? Or is it safe for me to reset the adaptations for the injectors, mass air flow etc...?
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      06-04-2018, 12:04 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Xerix View Post
So I just tried to reset the incremental wheel adaptations and it failed.

So am I right in assuming that my DDE software needs to be updated before I can proceed with resetting any of my adaptations? Or is it safe for me to reset the adaptations for the injectors, mass air flow etc...?
Some adaptations will work without an update. Others will not.
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      06-05-2018, 11:45 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by Xerix View Post
So I just tried to reset the incremental wheel adaptations and it failed.

So am I right in assuming that my DDE software needs to be updated before I can proceed with resetting any of my adaptations? Or is it safe for me to reset the adaptations for the injectors, mass air flow etc...?
The increment wheel adaptations where introduced in ZB 8588672. If the SW ZB nr in your DDE is anything younger than this it will not reset the adaptations.
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      06-09-2018, 05:37 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by HudZ View Post
Yea I read somewhere that incremental wheel is a software update, so it wouldn't be for everyone's car. At least those that never got the software updates.



Not sure, 3 is what I was told. It does seem unreasonably long, but that all depends on how much capacitance exists without a battery and what the draw is from the DDE is with the car off. I was just passing the tip along from the BMW diesel Facebook group.
Can you please pass along the FB diesel group link? Thanks!
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      06-10-2018, 07:27 PM   #27
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Can you please pass along the FB diesel group link? Thanks!
https://www.facebook.com/groups/NABDOG
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      09-20-2018, 10:25 PM   #28
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I have a BMW 335D 2011. I recently also had errors of faulty injector 2 and 4, throttle body faulty, and my rep said Catalytic converter needs to be replaced. Total cost almost $6000. So I had the shop replace injector 2 and 4, and throttle body. But engine light still came on after deleting the codes and driving the car for about 150 miles. BMW Service said injector 2 and 4 faulty, throttle body faulty, and catalytic converter. It seems to me the errors are still in the car after being replaced. Anyone can shed some light of what is going on? I've spent so much time and money on this car that i'm about to trash it and just grab a toyota.
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      05-26-2021, 01:07 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by Mik325tds View Post
Yes, always connect a good charger, turn off your lights, heated seats, blower and other big power sinks.
The FRM is a ticking time bomb. Even with a good charger connected there is a very small risk that it'll corrupt it's EEprom when asked for it's DTCs and never communicate again. I'd suggest updating it to the latest firmware with WinKFP or go to a dealer and have it updated. Meanwhile they should know about the problem.

You have done the correct first step: Turn on ignition, Go to Operations, change to tab "Read Out Vehicle Data" and then klick "Complete identification". It'll take forever (about 3 min). All green modules in the ECU tree are good, yellow ones have faults set, red ones don't communicate.
In order to reset adaptions, change to tab "Vehicle management" in the first row, "Service function" in the second row, Then click "Power train", "Digitial Diesel Electronics (US version), then "adaptations". After CBU cleaning you want to do "Air mass flow sensor", "Increment wheel", "injectors", "mean quantity adaptions". Can't hurt to do "Rail pressure regulating valve" as well.

Note, that resetting "Increment wheel" adaptions might not work due to specific versions of ISTAP and you DDE SW, some others might not work due to a cheaper cable.

For the TCU go back to "Undo All", then "Power train", "transmission control", "Adjustment", "Resetting adaption functions".

Hope that helps.
Hi everyone - not to revive a really old thread here, but this problem still exists in the wild. Hopefully there's still someone around who can help. I have a 2011 335d that just got cbu cleaning. I am now getting rough running controller errors on cyl 1 and 5 as well as zero quantity adaptation errors. I have ista D/+ communicating with the car, but I am having trouble. I was able to reset the increment wheel adaptations, but am unable to reset the mean quantity adaptations or rail pressure. Maf resets, but it's always 0. I drove the car around after the increment wheel reset and already have a rough running controller error on cylinder 1. Any ideas as to why I can't reset the other important adaptations? Additionally, I don't see any zero quantity adaptations sections in ista d/+. I also have inpa sort of working (it's all in German with frequent script errors for the m57) and I didn't find the adaptations reset portion. I verified my injector index numbers were coded to the cylinders properly. The engine is running okay, albeit vibrates a bit too much at idle. My ista d version is 4.15 and I have ista p as well, but I haven't figured out how to use it/what to use it for. The cable I am using is a k-dcan USB cable with a switch using ediabas and icom emulator. I have it switched to dcan for the 335d. I am able to program via ncs expert and read modules with it just fine. Any help is appreciated. After a while of driving I start getting light misfiring at idle when I also start seeing the zero quantity adaptation errors.

If I should be starting a new thread, please let me know.

Thanks!
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      05-26-2021, 07:37 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by hungry4cheese View Post
Hi everyone - not to revive a really old thread here, but this problem still exists in the wild. Hopefully there's still someone around who can help. I have a 2011 335d that just got cbu cleaning. I am now getting rough running controller errors on cyl 1 and 5 as well as zero quantity adaptation errors. I have ista D/+ communicating with the car, but I am having trouble. I was able to reset the increment wheel adaptations, but am unable to reset the mean quantity adaptations or rail pressure. Maf resets, but it's always 0. I drove the car around after the increment wheel reset and already have a rough running controller error on cylinder 1. Any ideas as to why I can't reset the other important adaptations? Additionally, I don't see any zero quantity adaptations sections in ista d/+. I also have inpa sort of working (it's all in German with frequent script errors for the m57) and I didn't find the adaptations reset portion. I verified my injector index numbers were coded to the cylinders properly. The engine is running okay, albeit vibrates a bit too much at idle. My ista d version is 4.15 and I have ista p as well, but I haven't figured out how to use it/what to use it for. The cable I am using is a k-dcan USB cable with a switch using ediabas and icom emulator. I have it switched to dcan for the 335d. I am able to program via ncs expert and read modules with it just fine. Any help is appreciated. After a while of driving I start getting light misfiring at idle when I also start seeing the zero quantity adaptation errors.

If I should be starting a new thread, please let me know.

Thanks!
hungry4cheese, you're fine reviving this old thread as your problem corresponds to the title of the thread.
I've experience similar problems with some of the adaptations not resetting with a D-CAN USB cable. Try getting hold of someone with an ICOM for that.
Yet, the increment wheel adaptations I think are the most important adaptations to be reset and you write that this was successful. Can you please confirm that?
If you're having zero quantity adaptation problems and have no ICOM available, you can try having the DDE do these adaptations by itself. It does so during longer coasting operation (the translated German documentation calls it "overrun" for some strange reason). So try going on the highway or rural roads and let off the accellerator pedal for extended times while still in gear. The DDE will turn off all injectors and then start increasing injection until it sees the minimum injection that leads to firing. That is the zero quantity adaptation.
Good luck and please report back.
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      05-26-2021, 11:34 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by Mik325tds View Post
hungry4cheese, you're fine reviving this old thread as your problem corresponds to the title of the thread.
I've experience similar problems with some of the adaptations not resetting with a D-CAN USB cable. Try getting hold of someone with an ICOM for that.
Yet, the increment wheel adaptations I think are the most important adaptations to be reset and you write that this was successful. Can you please confirm that?
If you're having zero quantity adaptation problems and have no ICOM available, you can try having the DDE do these adaptations by itself. It does so during longer coasting operation (the translated German documentation calls it "overrun" for some strange reason). So try going on the highway or rural roads and let off the accellerator pedal for extended times while still in gear. The DDE will turn off all injectors and then start increasing injection until it sees the minimum injection that leads to firing. That is the zero quantity adaptation.
Good luck and please report back.
Ah thank you for the prompt response on this. So if I am understanding correctly, the zero quantity adaptations cannot be reset then? Only mean quantity in istad/+.

Yes to clear things up I was able to reset two adaptations - maf and increment wheel. After these resets I noticed what seemed like a bit more "knock" like noise when accelerating more quickly from a stop, but no issues otherwise. My "misfire" seems to have gone away for now. I do have swirl flap deletes just FYI. No tune otherwise (yet).

I will try coasting for longer durations. I do remember that after a long drive last time on a highway, the engine got smoother for some time, but then started to have that slight misfire. Last night I coasted down a hill with no issues, but it was only for a few minutes with light gas occasionally. Coming back up the hill, I got a rough running controller cyl 1 error (and a bunch of emissions codes and ambient temp sensor code).

As for getting my hands on an icom cable... I'm not sure I have any means of doing so unless somebody has one in the Seattle area I'll bring beers! I could go to the dealership and tell them I've had cbu cleaning to reset everything, but I think they will charge an arm and a leg just to plug it in. Come to think of it, I'll probably go to dudmd tuning as they're down the street for help.

I do have errors in the ecu sometimes for the maf (which is brand new) and also an error for the ambient temperature sensor. I have replaced the charge pipe temp sensor and the sensor in the bumper for outside temp to try to fix this and the error keeps coming back. I see an odd temperature on my obd scanner though for one of the temperatures. Another mystery. A little history that may help - car was in a collision. This ended in me having to replace both turbos (new gaskets), turbo oil lines, maf, tube from maf to turbo with sensor, entire front end. Then I had a fire by the downpipe, which resulted in having to replace valve cover, entire engine wiring, rear side rail pressure regulator, and a bunch of burned up plastic. I also did valve cover gaskets, intake gaskets, TB gaskets, charge pipe seals, cbu cleaning, swirl flap delete. I have a slew of errors related to emissions constantly throwing a check engine light. I wanted to get the engine running perfectly first and then planning on deleting egr, downpipe, scr and tune. Mechanical issue I still have - thermostat seems stuck open. Engine coolant temp remains around 50-70C.

Sorry for the wall of text, but whatever may help!

Thanks!

Last edited by hungry4cheese; 05-26-2021 at 11:50 AM..
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      05-28-2021, 06:26 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by hungry4cheese View Post
Ah thank you for the prompt response on this. So if I am understanding correctly, the zero quantity adaptations cannot be reset then? Only mean quantity in istad/+.

Yes to clear things up I was able to reset two adaptations - maf and increment wheel. After these resets I noticed what seemed like a bit more "knock" like noise when accelerating more quickly from a stop, but no issues otherwise. My "misfire" seems to have gone away for now. I do have swirl flap deletes just FYI. No tune otherwise (yet).

I will try coasting for longer durations. I do remember that after a long drive last time on a highway, the engine got smoother for some time, but then started to have that slight misfire. Last night I coasted down a hill with no issues, but it was only for a few minutes with light gas occasionally. Coming back up the hill, I got a rough running controller cyl 1 error (and a bunch of emissions codes and ambient temp sensor code).

As for getting my hands on an icom cable... I'm not sure I have any means of doing so unless somebody has one in the Seattle area I'll bring beers! I could go to the dealership and tell them I've had cbu cleaning to reset everything, but I think they will charge an arm and a leg just to plug it in. Come to think of it, I'll probably go to dudmd tuning as they're down the street for help.

I do have errors in the ecu sometimes for the maf (which is brand new) and also an error for the ambient temperature sensor. I have replaced the charge pipe temp sensor and the sensor in the bumper for outside temp to try to fix this and the error keeps coming back. I see an odd temperature on my obd scanner though for one of the temperatures. Another mystery. A little history that may help - car was in a collision. This ended in me having to replace both turbos (new gaskets), turbo oil lines, maf, tube from maf to turbo with sensor, entire front end. Then I had a fire by the downpipe, which resulted in having to replace valve cover, entire engine wiring, rear side rail pressure regulator, and a bunch of burned up plastic. I also did valve cover gaskets, intake gaskets, TB gaskets, charge pipe seals, cbu cleaning, swirl flap delete. I have a slew of errors related to emissions constantly throwing a check engine light. I wanted to get the engine running perfectly first and then planning on deleting egr, downpipe, scr and tune. Mechanical issue I still have - thermostat seems stuck open. Engine coolant temp remains around 50-70C.

Sorry for the wall of text, but whatever may help!

Thanks!
More info is better. It is generally a good idea to have an engine running perfectly before going for a tune. With all the issues you had with the engine there could be many more gremlins to sort out before you get it resolved. But going to DudMD for some error diagnostics might be a good idea. Maybe your new MAF is faulty?
Definitely replace the thermostat. That is a know failure point but usually doesn't lead to misfires. Maybe download Test-o and do some logging for dudmd to analyze.
So I take it with the fire you also replaced all vacuum lines, correct? Sometimes the valves turn bad also. Does your boost work correctly with the change-over valve?
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      06-02-2021, 09:40 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by Mik325tds View Post
More info is better. It is generally a good idea to have an engine running perfectly before going for a tune. With all the issues you had with the engine there could be many more gremlins to sort out before you get it resolved. But going to DudMD for some error diagnostics might be a good idea. Maybe your new MAF is faulty?
Definitely replace the thermostat. That is a know failure point but usually doesn't lead to misfires. Maybe download Test-o and do some logging for dudmd to analyze.
So I take it with the fire you also replaced all vacuum lines, correct? Sometimes the valves turn bad also. Does your boost work correctly with the change-over valve?
Hey Mik325tds thanks for the response. So the other weekend I took the car for a long over 200 mile drive. It did really well, but it did not work to reset my zero quantity adaptations. I was still getting random misfires and sometimes jerky acceleration from a stop. It did great otherwise.

I did replace all of the vacuum lines with new silicone hoses and haven't had an issue with those. The entire vacuum canister area melted during the fire so I replaced that with a brand new one, and got a set of used valves there as well. I haven't seen any errors for boost or vacuum at this point. I don't hear any hissing or notice any boost issues. I'm not sure which one is the change over valve.

Before the fire I did a walnut blast on the car and got things much cleaner. Valves looked shiny and clean with the endoscope.

Bmw m57 walnut blast before and after:



It may be possible that my new maf is faulty. I am not sure. I checked idle values of it and they seemed okay and changed on acceleration.

I definitely have a failed thermostat. This will be my next project to tackle along with water pump and replacing a cracked AC line and condenser. I will also delete the egr in the process. The egr valve is throwing errors currently, but I have a race pipe to delete it. For now I'll let it hang to the side plugged in to avoid limp mode. I'll tackle that project next week most likely.

I did go to dudmd tuning and they were very helpful. Their machine was able to clear all of the adaptations and recommended I put in some hotshots extreme diesel fuel system cleaner. So I did just that and am slowly getting through the tank. After the adaptations were all cleared, the engine seemed very smooth at idle in gear. Barely any interior vibrations. I'm going on a very long road trip with the car early next week so I am hoping to get through the tank with the additive - reminds me that I need to add some DEF since I won't make it before it goes to limp mode with how much I have now (about 500 miles left). I have not gotten the rough running controller errors yet since the adaptations were cleared. Fingers crossed. They said if it does come back then most likely I have an injector failing on cyl 1 and/or 5. This could be due to age/mileage or also due to the fact that all injector wires shorted out during the fire. No maf errors at the moment either.

I will report back soon to let you know if things improve in the coming days.

Off topic, but in case you wanted to see some fire carnage (it took me about 8 minutes to get to a fire extinguisher after I stopped and noticed the flames)...


Last edited by hungry4cheese; 06-02-2021 at 10:08 AM..
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      06-02-2021, 10:15 AM   #34
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Thanks for the update.
When deleting the EGR, the car still might give you faults and go to limp because the air mass doesn't decrease with EGR activated. But at that point I guess you're ready for the tune if the car behaves as good as it is now.

Oi, never want to experience a vehicle fire like that. Do you know what caused it and how did you get it extinguished that quickly?
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      06-02-2021, 07:51 PM   #35
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Thanks for the update.
When deleting the EGR, the car still might give you faults and go to limp because the air mass doesn't decrease with EGR activated. But at that point I guess you're ready for the tune if the car behaves as good as it is now.

Oi, never want to experience a vehicle fire like that. Do you know what caused it and how did you get it extinguished that quickly?
I honestly never figured out the fire. I'm not sure if the wiring had a fault and shorted, but after looking at the wiring, it wasn't fully melted down there so I kind of ruled that out. It also could've been some walnuts that may have gotten pooled somewhere. I could've also accidentally dropped a piece of paper towel I was using to plug up the intake holes down there. This is probably the most likely cause. Be very careful if you ever work with paper towels around the car. It is hard to see down there with the vacuum canister in the way. I do not recommend fires... I got lucky. I did not have a fire extinguisher, but I ran to a nearby house and this lovely old man brought me a fire extinguisher. If he was not there, the car would've been toast. Literally. I now carry two fire extinguishers and a gallon of water in there... Still do not trust the car.

Yeah the plan is to have the tune ready pretty quickly after I do that delete and the downpipe will come right after. I'll see if the car is ready. The injectors may still need replacement given the codes come back. I'll keep driving it for now as is and see if it is ready or not.
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      03-17-2023, 07:15 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by Mik325tds View Post
After CBU cleaning you want to do "Air mass flow sensor", "Increment wheel", "injectors", "mean quantity adaptions". Can't hurt to do "Rail pressure regulating valve" as well.
I had to change my rail pressure regulator and ISTA doesn't let me reset the adaptation. Says reset failed. I have also reset increment wheel in the past, why doesn't it let me reset the regulator?!
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