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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > BMW E90/E92/E93 3-series General Forums > General E90 Sedan / E91 Wagon / E92 Coupe / E93 Cabrio > So many codes...where do i start?



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      02-08-2019, 06:50 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juld0zer View Post
Is there any possibility the cam sensor plugs are swapped? I know the exhaust cam should throw a sync fault in some motors but intake is more important to starting the engine
If you mean the VANOS, I thought if that too. I checked them against my wife’s 328 and pics on the internet. They are good. And clean too.
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      02-09-2019, 01:43 AM   #68
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Nah, the cam sensors. They are just below the front of the rocker cover.
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      02-09-2019, 11:41 AM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juld0zer View Post
Nah, the cam sensors. They are just below the front of the rocker cover.
Nope. I have never disconnected them
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      02-09-2019, 04:50 PM   #70
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Update- today I cleaned the VANOS solenoids and installed new coils. The car started good but idled a little rough. It gradually got worse and now it will hardly start again. I did get a screen capture of the VANOS readings and the ESS readings were specified- 225 actual- 203. My BimmerGeeks cabled showed up today. I still need to download INPA and Ista yet.
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      02-10-2019, 12:55 AM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironhead Dave View Post
Can anyone tell me what the green wire with a red tracer may go to? It appears that it possibly got pinched in the cover. I cannot be for sure but when I just pushed the harness back in, that is where it wanted to lay.
You may want to revisit this.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e91-328ix-tou/wiring-functional-info/power-train/engine-electronics-quality-control-valve-msv/low-pressure-fuel-system/electronic-fuel-pump-control-module/ekps-electronic-fuel-pump-control-module-supply/vFnKcli

I can't trace it back to that connector in the ebox because the wiring diagrams are not as detailed as i expected (BMW can be unpredictable with how much detail they give) but green with red stripe wire, your multi-cylinder misfires, low air mass readings and high fuel trims could almost guarantee the problem is due to fuel supply.

I will try dig as far as I can but that wire *could* be the wake up signal wire to the EKPS which is the electronic fuel pump controller. If it doesn't get a wake up signal, it will not prime the fuel system and it may not even run the pump. Find the pinched bit, cut back the insulation and see what's going on.
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      02-10-2019, 08:42 AM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juld0zer View Post
You may want to revisit this.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...supply/vFnKcli

I can't trace it back to that connector in the ebox because the wiring diagrams are not as detailed as i expected (BMW can be unpredictable with how much detail they give) but green with red stripe wire, your multi-cylinder misfires, low air mass readings and high fuel trims could almost guarantee the problem is due to fuel supply.

I will try dig as far as I can but that wire *could* be the wake up signal wire to the EKPS which is the electronic fuel pump controller. If it doesn't get a wake up signal, it will not prime the fuel system and it may not even run the pump. Find the pinched bit, cut back the insulation and see what's going on.
There is a gr/r wire that goes to the wake up. The one in question looks comes out of fuse F33 and runs into connector X6041. From there it appears to go to the electric coolant pump. I am going to check the fuse and if it is ok, then the wire should should have 12v+ at the connector and if it does, it should be good. At this point though it seems that it would be just avoiding another separate issue with the coolant pump since it doesn’t appear to go to anything else. These schematics are difficult to follow at first but once you get the hang of them, they are fairly easy to navigate. At work, I will have an entire schematic with wire routings etc. all together. Anyway, take a look at the pics and see if you agree. I don’t see where it breaks out to anything else after X6041
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      02-10-2019, 10:27 AM   #73
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But your thick red cable is in Pin 1 of what should be X6041. The diagram shows power for the coolant pump comes out of Pin 2
Does your car have auto engine stop/start?

Can you write out the wire colours and pin numbers here? The pin number should be marked on the connector. Write the colours in full, rather than abbreviations as BMW goes by German words so GR is actually grey but i know you meant green. The camera also shows some red as orange so i just want to be 100% clear
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      02-10-2019, 02:47 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juld0zer View Post
But your thick red cable is in Pin 1 of what should be X6041. The diagram shows power for the coolant pump comes out of Pin 2
Does your car have auto engine stop/start?

Can you write out the wire colours and pin numbers here? The pin number should be marked on the connector. Write the colours in full, rather than abbreviations as BMW goes by German words so GR is actually grey but i know you meant green. The camera also shows some red as orange so i just want to be 100% clear
I am sorry. I looked at it wrong. The wire I pictured in the schematic is red with a green stripe. Not green with a red stripe. Here is the pin out on the connector

This should be X6041 by the pic from above
Pin 1- heavy gauge red
Pin 5- blue with red tracer
Pin 6- red
Pin 7- blue with red tracer
Pin 8- red
Pin 9- green with red tracer
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      02-10-2019, 07:51 PM   #75
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I think this is the correct connector. The pin out seems to match.
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Last edited by Ironhead Dave; 02-10-2019 at 08:52 PM..
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      02-10-2019, 08:53 PM   #76
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Sorry. I cannot seem to get this to resize like the others
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      02-11-2019, 01:21 AM   #77
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Full version for those watching:https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e91-328xi-tou/gZOz1pX

Have you had a chance to cut back the insulation where it was crushed?
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      02-11-2019, 10:09 AM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juld0zer View Post
Full version for those watching:https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...xi-tou/gZOz1pX

Have you had a chance to cut back the insulation where it was crushed?
Not yet. I work full time and run a horse farm so spare time is very limited. I will get to it this evening and report back.
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      02-11-2019, 07:58 PM   #79
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I pulled back the insulation and the wire looks fine.
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      02-11-2019, 08:03 PM   #80
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I have seen a couple of times where I get a fault that the valvetronic servo motor is sluggish or an open circuit. Is there a way to bench test the motor?

Also, if it is related to the valve timing, I know where my wife’s car reads. Could i unplug my motor and use the Allen wrench and the scanner to adjust the timing to read similar to my wife’s car? Would that tell me anything or just be a waste of time?
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      02-11-2019, 10:32 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironhead Dave View Post
I have seen a couple of times where I get a fault that the valvetronic servo motor is sluggish or an open circuit. Is there a way to bench test the motor?

Also, if it is related to the valve timing, I know where my wife’s car reads. Could i unplug my motor and use the Allen wrench and the scanner to adjust the timing to read similar to my wife’s car? Would that tell me anything or just be a waste of time?

Did I miss something? I didn't think (or know) the allen adjusted anything, I thought it just facilitated installation and removal?
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      02-12-2019, 03:06 AM   #82
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Check the valvetronic relay? An old relay may have dirty contacts. For their low cost, it might be worth just chucking in a new one.

Are all the connections to the jump start terminal tight and clean? The 10mm and 13mm nuts is what i am referring to.

fleet, it is there for diagnostic and repair purposes. You can wind it manually while monitoring the eccentric shaft sensor signal to verify sensor integrity
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      02-12-2019, 06:02 AM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juld0zer View Post
Are all the connections to the jump start terminal tight and clean? The 10mm and 13mm nuts is what i am referring to.
Yes. Per suggestion of an earlier reply, I started at one end of the wiring and went through each wire individually to checknits connections and integrity. That is how I found the pinched wire. It also allowed me to make sure that there wasn’t a wire that had dropped out of sight and didn’t get hooked up.
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      02-19-2019, 07:50 PM   #84
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Any progress?
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      02-20-2019, 09:18 PM   #85
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I literally just got my INPA to work after several days and attempts to install it.

This is what I got:
2A38 VVT control motor position control deviation bank 1
2A37 VVT guiding sensor plausibility bank 1
2A98 Engine position system ‘A’ performance bank 1
2A9A Camshaft position sensor ‘A’ performance bank 1
And then a misfire code on all cylinders
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      02-22-2019, 04:21 PM   #86
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You might be at a point where you will have to remove the rocker cover again (and replace the gasket, it's not worth risking a leak) and having a look at all the stuff underneath.
Unless you have access to an oscilloscope to see what the cam/crank signals are like?
You could also swap cam sensors with the exhaust side to see if the fault migrates but it sounds more like something is causing it to give a duff signal.

It might need the timing checked and adjusted. Compare the position of the holes in the reluctor wheels. They should roughly be in sync with each other.

Make sure nothing has broken off the rocker cover like the oil separator return protrusions.

Take off the ESS and send us a photo of what you see on the eccentric shaft. Make sure the magnet wheel is still on the end of it.
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      02-23-2019, 01:42 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juld0zer View Post
You might be at a point where you will have to remove the rocker cover again (and replace the gasket, it's not worth risking a leak) and having a look at all the stuff underneath.
Unless you have access to an oscilloscope to see what the cam/crank signals are like?
You could also swap cam sensors with the exhaust side to see if the fault migrates but it sounds more like something is causing it to give a duff signal.

It might need the timing checked and adjusted. Compare the position of the holes in the reluctor wheels. They should roughly be in sync with each other.

Make sure nothing has broken off the rocker cover like the oil separator return protrusions.

Take off the ESS and send us a photo of what you see on the eccentric shaft. Make sure the magnet wheel is still on the end of it.
I was thinking of taking the cover off again. I had the idea of bolting the valvetronic motor up and turning on the ignition to see what it is acting like. To see if I could see anything that stood out. I will take the ESS off and take some pics.

As far as a gasket, is there any certain brand to buy or stay away from? I’ve been thinking that maybe it has not been sealing tight enough. It was a set that I bought off amazon but i do not remember the brand name. I wish there was a way to test the ESS. I wouldn’t rule out that even though it is new, it could be faulty. It is an OEM VDO but I did get it off eBay.
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      02-23-2019, 07:34 PM   #88
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I'm not sure that will produce any fruit because the ESS won't see the shaft turn. The failsafe may be to stop turning the motor and set the jammed valvetronic motor fault.

Before you take the cover off, do you mind uploading some photos of the front of the engine which show the connections to the VANOS solenoids and whichever other connector you removed to allow the rocker cover to be removed?

Also, just to confirm - the weather is about 50f/10c there at the moment? I'm only questioning this as the coolant temp doesn't seem to rise after over a minute of running. It was barely above ambient from your first screenshots on the scanner
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