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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N55 Turbo Engine Tuning and Exhaust Modifications - 335i Tuning > Go Fast Bits (GFB) DV+ Diverter Valve



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      09-08-2017, 09:45 AM   #67
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Mine has no modification
Should I put the spring on it ?
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      05-03-2018, 11:08 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CantCatchMe View Post
Get it done though, it is worth every penny honestly. I should have done it when I installed my DP
Did you have to completely drop the front subframe to get to the diverter valve?
I'm asking you because I see that you have an XI same as me.
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      06-27-2018, 10:01 AM   #69
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RE: Subframe needs to be dropped.

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Originally Posted by olivojoe View Post
Damnit, I figured, that's kind of why I was asking.
So, exactly what does that mean? Glad I found this thread, I was about to buy one for my 2011 335 xDrive.
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      06-27-2018, 10:09 AM   #70
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On occasion, it seems I spool up, then the diverter dumps although I'm pressing the pedal to the floor, and the car quits accelerating. I think the factory diverter may be giving out, unless, something electronically in traction control is telling it to dump. I'm wondering if the GFB diverter will solve the problem. Any ideas? I do have the xDrive, so from what I gather more of a PITA than the RWD. What about the water pump bolts? Isn't it recommended you change the bolts if you remove the water pump?
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      06-27-2018, 10:21 AM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tboudre View Post
On occasion, it seems I spool up, then the diverter dumps although I'm pressing the pedal to the floor, and the car quits accelerating. I think the factory diverter may be giving out, unless, something electronically in traction control is telling it to dump. I'm wondering if the GFB diverter will solve the problem. Any ideas? I do have the xDrive, so from what I gather more of a PITA than the RWD. What about the water pump bolts? Isn't it recommended you change the bolts if you remove the water pump?
How many miles on the car?

We recommend upgrading the DV on cars with more then 35K miles as the factory DV tends to start leaking around that time.
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      06-30-2018, 08:58 AM   #72
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For what it's worth, install is possible without draining the coolant/removing the water pump (non-x) - I did it last weekend. You need to remove the inlet pipe and that will allow you to access the top two bolts. Remove the splash shield and fan and then unbolt the water pump but do not drain or remove - this will allow removal of the bottom bolt. Go in with a long extension from the front of the car. It's a pain but it's very doable.

Great little mod - my stock valve was leaking boost and I didn't even realize it until after the mod. Installed with the spring - no CELs. Change in sound was minimal for me (stock airbox). Hope this helps!
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      06-30-2018, 04:27 PM   #73
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Would this be advisable for a FBO N55 car running 93 with a stock turbo? It seems as the consensus is mixed, but mainly leaning towards only needing it on cars pushing 20+ PSI with upgraded turbos. Also, how much additional work would this install be on a N55 while the DP is being installed? Seems as though It would be easy access at that point.
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      10-17-2019, 12:44 PM   #74
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I'm running a 2011 BMW 335i xDrive with 6-speed Automatic transmission. I'm having thermostat stuck problems so, I figured I'd replace thermostat, water pump. Figured I'd do the GFB DV+ upgrade while I was down there. Also had a few diverter stuck codes, so I ordered an new piedmont diverter valve as well as the GFB DV+. No turbo upgrades or downpipes, just the JB4.

My question: Spring or no spring?

Are the troubles only with manual transmissions? Any worries with stock turbos & the spring?

How about "Dropping the sub-frame"? I can see the pump and thermostat, looks like I can get to them. I've watched the youtube videos on pump & thermostat replacement. Just that I keep reading about the subframe on the xDrive & not sure what that entails.

Thanks a bunch,

Troy
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      10-17-2019, 03:40 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tboudre View Post
I'm running a 2011 BMW 335i xDrive with 6-speed Automatic transmission. I'm having thermostat stuck problems so, I figured I'd replace thermostat, water pump. Figured I'd do the GFB DV+ upgrade while I was down there. Also had a few diverter stuck codes, so I ordered an new piedmont diverter valve as well as the GFB DV+. No turbo upgrades or downpipes, just the JB4.

My question: Spring or no spring?

Are the troubles only with manual transmissions? Any worries with stock turbos & the spring?

How about "Dropping the sub-frame"? I can see the pump and thermostat, looks like I can get to them. I've watched the youtube videos on pump & thermostat replacement. Just that I keep reading about the subframe on the xDrive & not sure what that entails.

Thanks a bunch,

Troy
No need at all to drop the sub-frame on the xDrive for this job. I am running MHD Stage 2+ and FBO with the Main Spring and I don't really notice a negative difference, I would say it's a bit more positive since it only purges partially meaning you can build boost back up to big numbers slightly quicker.

OTS MHD map have issues with boost being on par with boost target, unlike the N54s. I feel like it enhanced my boost curve a bit so that it follows the target more accurately.

Other than that it really comes down to your choice and I don't think it will cause any harm.
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      10-17-2019, 03:54 PM   #76
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This is a guide I did back then for my 2011 E90 N55 xDrive if it can help you tboudre

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

1) Drive your car on your ramps or jack the front portion of the vehicle up.


2) Start by removing all of the coolant in the expansion tank with a bleeding kit or any pump/


3) Remove the expansion take of the engine bay. To do this you unclip the top coolant line and you pull. You then remove the lower one that is also retained by a clip. You remove the electrical connector by pushing on one of the sides and pulling and finally you remove the two bolts which are 10mm or 8mm I don't recall. Your expansion tank is now ready to be removed, you simply pull it out of the engine bay.


4) Go under the car and remove the plastic undertray.


You will now notice that on the subframe side facing the front of the vehicle you will have 3 attached components. Coolant lines, Power steering lines, and the swaybar.


5) Detach the Power Steering lines from the subframe. You will notice that it is held in two spots and that there are rubber boots resting on metal brackets welded to the subframe. If you lift these rubber boots a bit, you will see a sort of nut. It's around 18mm. You put a wrench there and then under that bracket, you use a 10mm socket to remove a nut while still holding the 18mm wrench. When the nut is out, you pull the lines upwards to get the bolts out of these brackets and you can then move that around and have a bit more space to play with.


6) Detach the Coolant lines from the subframe. The coolant lines are attached to the subframe in two spots by some 10 mm bolts. Get a socket and remove these. You will notice that this coolant line was the one that we removed from the bottom of the expansion tank. It is still attached to the thermostat by a clip connector.


7) I then proceeded to detach the sway bar. It is held by 4 13mm bolts located at the two ends of the subframe near each wheel. You simply take a socket and remove these. They might be well tightened. When you remove these, the sway bar will be able to move more freely left-right and a bit forward-backward which will save you a lot of time when getting the water pump and thermostat out.


When this was done you then start to work on the thermostat. It has 1 electrical connector and 4 coolant lines. It is held onto the water pump by 2 10mm bolts. Even if we removed a lot of coolant from the expansion tank, there is still a lot that comes from the radiator and other components so be ready to catch coolant every time you remove a line.


8) I started by removing the coolant line that was addressed in step 6). I pulled on the clip to disengage the lock and pulled back the connector from the thermostat. This line was finally free and I worked the top of it down the car and let it rest under the car and out of my way.


9) I then proceeded by removing the electrical connector. If I recall it was a push and pull. That part is pretty simply and you can figure it out simply by looking.


10) Next step that I did was removing the big coolant line that is coming from the radiator to the thermostat. Again, pull on the clip to disengage it and pull the connector out of the thermostat. It might be hard to pull out.
*USUALLY A LOT OF COOLANT COMES DOWN FROM THAT LINE*


11) After that, I removed a little coolant line that was connected to the top of the thermostat if I recall. This one was retained by a hose clamp that I unscrewed with a flat head screwdriver. Since it is held by a clamp and not a quick disconnect clip, this pipe might be really pressed onto the thermostat and hard to remove. Just continue pulling on it till you get it off.


12) The final hose that I removed was the one that is located at the back of the thermostat and that loops and connects to the water pump. It is also held by a hose clamp. To have access to that hose clamp, you have to lay under the car, with your head a bit behind the passenger wheel. There is a little spot where you can put your hand under the wastegate and reach that clamp and hose on the thermostat side to pull on it. To unscrew it, you can do it from the side facing the passenger wheel with a flat head screwdriver while still looking at the clamp from the spot I told you. When it is loose enough, pull like a train on that damn chubby hose. If it doesn't work keep on pulling, I know it's a tight spot but you will eventually get it.


13) Finally, grab a 10 mm socket to remove the first bolt connecting the thermostat to the water pump. Then use a ratchet wrench to remove the other one, since getting a socket there is quite hard and just too much of a hassle.


14) The thermostat is now free. You can move the hose you removed out of your way and maneuver the thermostat out of the car.


Be careful to clean the inside of the thermostat before reinstalling it since some impurities probably got in while you pulled hoses and took it out.


It's now time to start working on the water pump. You will need 3 new screws to mount back the water pump. This is the code of the screws that I used, it may be different for you, just double check: 11517602123.


The water pump is held by 3 inverted Torx E12 bolts. These are torque to yield so they have to be replaced. It also has 2 coolant lines where 1 is already loose since we remove the end that was connecting it to the thermostat. It also has one electrical connector.


15) I started by removing that one remaining big coolant line. It is held by a hose clamp, so again, grab your flathead screwdriver and loosen the clamp. Same as the other, pull hard on it to get it out.


16) Next step that I did was remove the chubby electrical connector located at the back of the water pump. On the right side of that connector (Passenger side), there is a clip that has to be firmly pushed and then you can pull the connector.
*If you are having a hard time removing the connector, start by doing step 17), pulling the water pump out and then come back to remove the connector.*


17) The only thing remaining for the water pump is to remove the 3 inverted E12 Torx bolt. Two of them are located at the bottom while 1 is located at the top. You should now have enough clearance to get to the top one with sockets and extension and get it out. For the bottom ones, the one that is the most towards the front of the car is also easy to remove with the right extension setup. You might have to move the sway bar in a configuration allowing you to reach these bolts without any disruption. Finally, the last bolt is a bit harder to get since it's in a tight spot. You might need to use a universal joint or very specific sizes of extension to get to that one. Another trick that I used and that works very well but that I don't recommend especially if your bolts are pretty rusted, was to use an SAE 3/8" 12 Point (Star shaped, NOT HEX) ratchet wrench to remove it. I removed that bolt and even reinstalled the new one that way, it worked very well for me.


18) The water pump is now ready to be removed. You can move all the detached coolant lines and sway bar out of your way to finally wiggle and maneuver the water pump out of the car.


There it is, you can finally clearly see the diverter valve apart for the topmost bolt that hidden by the DV itself. There is 1 electrical connector and 3 5mm Allen bolts holding the DV to the compressor.


19) The first step was to remove the electrical connector that was held by a quick disconnect clip. Pull gently on that clip to disengage it. Gently since it is prone to fly out of its seat if you pull too much on it and it is a true hassle to find. When it is disengaged, pull the connector out.


20) Here comes the final step. Removing the 3 Allen bolts. My bolts were pretty rusted up so I started by scrapping the inside of the bolt head to clean it and remove all corrosion and rust layers. I then soaked the three bolts with penetrating oil. If you have a 5mm Allen socket, just chuck that one in your extensions that will vary for which bolt you are working on. When these bolts are removed, the DV will be loose and you can finally pull it out. If you don't have a 5mm Allen socket, try to find a 5mm L shaped Allen key to cut and put into a socket, or go buy one.


Since you are buying the GFB DV+ there is provided instructions. When installing the OEM solenoid part of the DV onto the DV+ plate, make sure to align the bulge on the OEM part with the groove carved into the DV+ plate and then push hard in order to press-fit these two parts together. Also, when reinstalling the DV, make sure that the golden piston doesn't come out of it when placing it!


Reinstalling everything should be much easier since you already know where everything goes and you already worked the pipes up. Just follow these steps somewhat in some sort of backward order.


!IMPORTANT!
When you are all done, put coolant back in the reservoir till it reaches the maximum and prime the coolant system. To do so, hop in your car, turn the ignition on and put heat on the lowest level and highest temperature. Turn off all other unnecessary electric equipment. You then press and hold the gas pedal with the ignition on but engine off for about 15 seconds. The pump will now start to prime the coolant system. You can hear it as well as the coolant running. After a while, it will be done and the level of coolant in the expansion tank will be below the minimum. Keep on doing this till the level after priming is still at the maximum of the expansion tank level.


Don't hesitate to ask me for more details or clarifications, I'll do my best to find images if I took some.
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      10-19-2019, 08:26 PM   #77
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I sure do appreciate that. I had some ramps and did just what you said. Getting those hose clamps loose was about the toughest part of the job. Thermostat & pump are out now, but the mosquitos were about to carry me away at dusk, so I'll complete the job in the morning. I can see the dirverter valve, looks easy to get to, no rust or corrosion. I figured out what the subframe is, and it is definitely in the way, but really no need to mess with it, just a little extra wiggling. I think putting it all back together will be easier since I'll get to choose where to put the screws on the hose clamps. I'll let update this post tomorrow.
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      10-19-2019, 10:24 PM   #78
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Nice job buddy, all the hard work is done, you've got this
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      10-21-2019, 09:09 AM   #79
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DONE!!!!

It was a lot easier putting everything back together than getting it apart. I did mess up one thing when pulling the diverter valve - the bolt next to the engine I used a hand allen wrench with the ball on the end, which ended up screwing up the bolt right from the get-go. What you need is a 1/4" drive 5mm allen just long enough to clear the solenoid, maybe about 3" total (which I didn't have). I ended up getting it mostly out using a T30 bit, which fit nicely in the banged up allen hole. Then that slipped and would not grip, so a 10mm bolt extractor from Harbor Freight fit over the head of the bolt & got it the last few threads out. Good thing the GVB came with new bolts.

Just as a note, dropping the subframe wasn't a direct issue with the DV+, but an issue with the water pump removal. But it definitely is doable without dropping the subframe, just substitute a lot of cussing.

The $2000 I saved on the labor offset the $200 I spent on tools. Besides, I was having a hard time finding a shop that I could say, "change pump, thermostat, dirverter", much less bring the GFB DV+ and say, "put this in, too". One guy, "Oh, we gotta run a diagnostic and check the temperature of the engine at 7 different spots because it could be a head gasket..." Say what? I'd either have oil in my coolant or emulsified oil sludge if that was the case.
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      10-26-2019, 11:13 PM   #80
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Guys if you are ever buying this thing from ANYONE double check with GFB to make sure they are genuine. The fakes are so real you can't even tell... The fakes aren't as good as the real ones and people are selling them for the same price as you can get the real ones for. I almost got tricked when I had my N55 several years back from an "authorized dealer".
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      10-28-2019, 08:43 AM   #81
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I installed one about a month ago when I replaced water pump and thermostat. Honestly didn't notice any difference in drivability or sound. I was 100% stock other than JB4.

Last week I installed JB4 intake. Now I can really hear the turbo but also the blow off valve Pshhhh. I enjoy the sound of the turbo spool but not a fan of the blow off.

Will be installing DPs at some point in the next few months. Maybe that will increase other noise enough to partially drown out the blow off.
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      10-28-2019, 09:09 AM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertm View Post
I installed one about a month ago when I replaced water pump and thermostat. Honestly didn't notice any difference in drivability or sound. I was 100% stock other than JB4.

Last week I installed JB4 intake. Now I can really hear the turbo but also the blow off valve Pshhhh. I enjoy the sound of the turbo spool but not a fan of the blow off.

Will be installing DPs at some point in the next few months. Maybe that will increase other noise enough to partially drown out the blow off.
Just so we are clear, you understand that this is not a Blow Off Valve, but a Diverter Valve?

The sound of it is pretty loud, the only way to get lower it would be to put back the stock air intake system or to remove the cowl and buy BMS Cowl Filters which makes the engine sound inside the car way louder thus overshadowing a bit the DV purge sound.
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      10-28-2019, 05:20 PM   #83
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Yah yah, diverter valve. I actually just bought a set of the BMS cowls filters last week. Haven't installed yet. Thanks for the tip.
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      06-17-2022, 09:25 AM   #84
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Update on GFB and MHD and JB4

I realize this is an old post but wanted to add my experience for anyone looking for more data.

I replaced the DV in my 2011 335xi 6mt with the GFB+.

I had JB4 and MHD installed before the DV upgrade (and would switch between using both with the MHD as a backend flash and also with the JB4 off and the MHD on map 2).

After the upgrade, I was getting very little boost and a fault code 2C90 Blowoff valve clamped closed.

To troubleshoot I disabled, set to stock, and uninstalled MHD and JB4 in multiple combinations.

What I found is that by completely uninstalling the MHD and just using the JB4, I was able to get full boost and the fault code went away.

I followed up with MHD about this but didn't get any useful information or advice.

Support experience:

- BMS, (Terry), has been very helpful and quick to provide assistance and advice to work out anything with the JB4.

- GFB, (Brett), is also very helpful and great to deal with.

- MHD, is not very helpful. Like dealing with a child.
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      06-17-2022, 11:50 AM   #85
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I never understand why people stack JB4 and MHD.

Everything can be done through MHD.

Edit - My experience with MHD has been the complete opposite. However, like any other REAL business, if you treat them poorly, it will be reciprocated.
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