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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > BMW E90/E92/E93 3-series General Forums > General E90 Sedan / E91 Wagon / E92 Coupe / E93 Cabrio > Wheel Bearing Replacement



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      06-22-2022, 01:21 PM   #1
MHDBMW12
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Wheel Bearing Replacement

Hi, I was just wondering if I need to replace both wheel bearings if only one has play. Do I also need to replace the assembly or just the bearings? (Will be doing the job myself. )
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      06-22-2022, 01:29 PM   #2
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You can just replace the side that has play, but they usually wear at the same rate. An OEM front wheel bearing is about USD$37 on RockAuto and an aftermarket hub about USD$30. Depending on the rust in Calgary, you may or may not need to replace this. An alignment may be needed afterwards. I think $2,283 is outrageous.

See what is involved XDrive front bearing:


Bearing replacement (for RWD, but this shows you the process):


And one on the front X3:
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      06-22-2022, 01:33 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mainbearing View Post
You can just replace the side that has play, but they usually wear at the same rate. An OEM front wheel bearing is about USD$37 on RockAuto and an aftermarket hub about USD$30. Depending on the rust in Calgary, you may or may not need to replace this. An alignment may be needed afterwards. I think $2,283 is outrageous.

See what is involved XDrive front bearing:


Bearing replacement (for RWD, but this shows you the process):
Thanks so much. This helps a lot. Yeah I’ll be replacing the hub to. The rust is pretty bad due to the snowy salty conditions in winter. I’ll probably do both sides since I’ll be doing both shocks at the same time.
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      06-23-2022, 04:24 PM   #4
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Do both sides and replace the hub as well. The rust on it will be bad.
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      06-23-2022, 08:33 PM   #5
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does the bearing make noise ?
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      06-24-2022, 01:12 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpc12 View Post
does the bearing make noise ?
Yeah there’s a slight noise I can hear at low speeds. Plus the dealer said there’s play so.
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      06-24-2022, 01:35 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mainbearing View Post
You can just replace the side that has play, but they usually wear at the same rate. An OEM front wheel bearing is about USD$37 on RockAuto and an aftermarket hub about USD$30. Depending on the rust in Calgary, you may or may not need to replace this. An alignment may be needed afterwards. I think $2,283 is outrageous.

See what is involved XDrive front bearing:


Bearing replacement (for RWD, but this shows you the process):


And one on the front X3:
Hi, I am almost ready to place my order on rock auto for the bearings and wheel hub. What else would I need to order, is there bolts etc?
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      06-24-2022, 02:56 AM   #8
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Are you ordering the wheel hub with bearing installed? It’s much faster this way.
Put some loctite on the threads.
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      06-24-2022, 06:11 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Serf27 View Post
Are you ordering the wheel hub with bearing installed? It’s much faster this way.
Put some loctite on the threads.
I could not find any assembled pieces for the front 335Xi E92 2009. I did look around but all I could find was separate pieces.
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      06-24-2022, 07:34 AM   #10
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Make sure to buy all the special tools required for wheel bearings.

- Hub splitter
- Bearing Puller tool
- Bearing pusher tool
- Have an impact for that axle nut after you unstake
- snap ring pliers
- You don't have to disconnect the knuckle unless yours is so rusty you need a press. Get the gearwrench ball joint separator for tierod/wishbone and a 2 jaw gear puller to remove the rear control arm. This is way better than smacking on the knuckle and risk damaging something else
- Use a punch + pb blaster to remove the axle from the hub. Don't hit too hard as you could damage your differential when the force of the blow is transferred. Lot's of small taps should do the trick.
- Disconnect the sensors from the knuckles so you don't break them

Last edited by Suvorovo; 06-24-2022 at 07:45 AM..
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      06-24-2022, 09:46 AM   #11
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OP. It is quite admirable that you've delved into DIY. It's really the only affordable way to keep old Bimmers on the road. Good for you.

But, you need to take ANY thing a dealer tells you with a grain of salt regarding service and repair. They are trying to make money off you. The other side of DIY is learning how to diagnose problems on your own.
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      06-24-2022, 01:41 PM   #12
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X-drives do not use the integrated hub and bearing assemblies. Those are for non-X and are mounted with 4 bolts each, because there are no drive axles in the front for non-X.

When you use Rock Auto's catalog double check the part numbers as they tend to lump different submodels together. You can use BMW onlne dealer's catalog or other sellers like FCP to help verify.

With all the winter road salt up north, soak the snap rings and bearings with PB Blaster well before disassembling. Use a screwdriver and lightly hammer to see if the snap ring spins in the groove. Allow time for it to soak and do its work.


Quote:
Originally Posted by MHDBMW12 View Post
I could not find any assembled pieces for the front 335Xi E92 2009. I did look around but all I could find was separate pieces.

Last edited by mainbearing; 06-24-2022 at 01:54 PM..
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      06-24-2022, 02:22 PM   #13
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Here is what I could find. Please double check the fitment.

OEM F.A.G. 805621 front bearing:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...t-31226751978f
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...665746&jsn=481

Axle nut M27x1.5 (BMW 33-41-1-133-785 $12.05)
https://www.getbmwparts.com/v-2009-b...nd-front-axles
Beck Arnley 1033112
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...341247&jsn=511

Rock Auto also lists Vaico V20-0681 $36.79 bearing, retainer ring and axle nut kit, but I could not verify on Vaico's catalog or if it is OEM (F.A.G. bearing).
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...277344&jsn=516

Front hub (BMW 31-20-6-768-993 $100.13)
https://www.getbmwparts.com/v-2009-b...ont-suspension
Vaico V203025 on Rock Auto is out of stock
Rock Auto does have WJB SPK1049 $28.79 each, which is listed in WJB's catalog:
https://wjbautomotiveshop.com/parts-look-up/

Front bearing retaining rings (BMW 07-11-9-934-760 $3.58):
https://www.getbmwparts.com/oem-part...ng-07119934760
SKF catalog says CIR214 is the correct one.
https://vehicleaftermarket.skf.com/u...roducts/CIR214
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...sn=537&jsn=537

Also google up a 5% Discount Code such as 64229A6F1B8015 until July 14 2022. Enter in "How did you hear about us".

Last edited by mainbearing; 06-24-2022 at 02:46 PM..
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      06-24-2022, 02:46 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
OP. It is quite admirable that you've delved into DIY. It's really the only affordable way to keep old Bimmers on the road. Good for you.

But, you need to take ANY thing a dealer tells you with a grain of salt regarding service and repair. They are trying to make money off you. The other side of DIY is learning how to diagnose problems on your own.
I have noticed that, they tell me to replace something as a whole which might only need a bolt for example my oil pan gasket thank god was done right before I bought the car, the drain bolt was stripped by the previous owner I ended up just Rethreading it using a kit and works like a charm. No new oil pan!!! But yeah I used to think they were gods, I’m getting better at diagnosing but it’s much harder than the actual diys imo maybe it’s just me.
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      06-24-2022, 02:56 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MHDBMW12 View Post
I have noticed that, they tell me to replace something as a whole which might only need a bolt for example my oil pan gasket thank god was done right before I bought the car, the drain bolt was stripped by the previous owner I ended up just Rethreading it using a kit and works like a charm. No new oil pan!!! But yeah I used to think they were gods, I’m getting better at diagnosing but it’s much harder than the actual diys imo maybe it’s just me.
I've doing all the maintainance on my cars ( just replaced the streering rack on the Roadster), but after seeing how hard they can be to remove + all ther special tools required, I'm taking it to a shop. Some jobs are just not worth doing at home
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      06-24-2022, 04:23 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StuKatz View Post
I've doing all the maintainance on my cars ( just replaced the streering rack on the Roadster), but after seeing how hard they can be to remove + all ther special tools required, I'm taking it to a shop. Some jobs are just not worth doing at home
I’m a highschool student so I gotta try to save where I can luckily it’s not my main car otherwise I’d be completely fucked. Beater civic !!!
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      06-24-2022, 04:25 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mainbearing View Post
Here is what I could find. Please double check the fitment.

OEM F.A.G. 805621 front bearing:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...t-31226751978f
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...665746&jsn=481

Axle nut M27x1.5 (BMW 33-41-1-133-785 $12.05)
https://www.getbmwparts.com/v-2009-b...nd-front-axles
Beck Arnley 1033112
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...341247&jsn=511

Rock Auto also lists Vaico V20-0681 $36.79 bearing, retainer ring and axle nut kit, but I could not verify on Vaico's catalog or if it is OEM (F.A.G. bearing).
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...277344&jsn=516

Front hub (BMW 31-20-6-768-993 $100.13)
https://www.getbmwparts.com/v-2009-b...ont-suspension
Vaico V203025 on Rock Auto is out of stock
Rock Auto does have WJB SPK1049 $28.79 each, which is listed in WJB's catalog:
https://wjbautomotiveshop.com/parts-look-up/

Front bearing retaining rings (BMW 07-11-9-934-760 $3.58):
https://www.getbmwparts.com/oem-part...ng-07119934760
SKF catalog says CIR214 is the correct one.
https://vehicleaftermarket.skf.com/u...roducts/CIR214
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...sn=537&jsn=537

Also google up a 5% Discount Code such as 64229A6F1B8015 until July 14 2022. Enter in "How did you hear about us".
Wow thanks most through response I’ve seen I’ll place the orders tonight and grab PB soak as well so it has a couple days. I’ll double check everything as well thanks so much!!
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      06-24-2022, 04:26 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Suvorovo View Post
Make sure to buy all the special tools required for wheel bearings.

- Hub splitter
- Bearing Puller tool
- Bearing pusher tool
- Have an impact for that axle nut after you unstake
- snap ring pliers
- You don't have to disconnect the knuckle unless yours is so rusty you need a press. Get the gearwrench ball joint separator for tierod/wishbone and a 2 jaw gear puller to remove the rear control arm. This is way better than smacking on the knuckle and risk damaging something else
- Use a punch + pb blaster to remove the axle from the hub. Don't hit too hard as you could damage your differential when the force of the blow is transferred. Lot's of small taps should do the trick.
- Disconnect the sensors from the knuckles so you don't break them
Thanks!! I’ll be “borrowing” as many as I can from Amazon. For those I can’t I will go out and buy. Is there specific ones for my car or would the “universal” ones work?
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