[TheMidnightNarwhal]

I'm looking at getting a 335is with a JB4 on probably the auto map, downpipes and a DCI intake.

I searched and find al these older posts ~2013-2014 about car not having LSD and some people asking. Some say it's fantastic first mod you should do some say the ediff is enough.

Now that we are in 2018... is it still fun without a LSD or with those mods it's required? I won't track the car but I will have fun with it.

[IllSic_Design]

The car is definitely still fun without it, but it will make the car more predictable and better to drive in certain situations, especially tracking.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by IllSic_Design

The car is definitely still fun without it, but it will make the car more predictable and better to drive in certain situations, especially tracking.

Definitely will not make positive difference unless you are very good driver to utilize the LSD. Most of us simply aren't and LSD will make the car more difficult to drive. I tracked mine for 4y on open diff, over 40, maybe 50 track days. Now I have LSD and re learning how to drive the car.

[kmx]

Originally Posted by feuer

Definitely will not make positive difference unless you are very good driver to utilize the LSD. Most of us simply aren't and LSD will make the car more difficult to drive. I tracked mine for 4y on open diff, over 40, maybe 50 track days. Now I have LSD and re learning how to drive the car.

Do you find the car puts the power down significantly better with the lsd? Even in a straight line?

[feuer]

Originally Posted by kmx

Do you find the car puts the power down significantly better with the lsd? Even in a straight line?

No.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal

I'm looking at getting a 335is with a JB4 on probably the auto map, downpipes and a DCI intake.

I searched and find al these older posts ~2013-2014 about car not having LSD and some people asking. Some say it's fantastic first mod you should do some say the ediff is enough.

Now that we are in 2018... is it still fun without a LSD or with those mods it's required? I won't track the car but I will have fun with it.

It doesn't sound like you intend to DD the car in the winter, but it would make it more stable in snowy conditions.

I'd add a better FMIC & 1.75" silicone inlets before I added an LSD

Also, double check to make sure that JB4 will clear the CEL codes that the car will make with downpipes.

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by feuer

Definitely will not make positive difference unless you are very good driver to utilize the LSD. Most of us simply aren't and LSD will make the car more difficult to drive. I tracked mine for 4y on open diff, over 40, maybe 50 track days. Now I have LSD and re learning how to drive the car.

Like I mean I'll try to take highway curves as fast as possible but I might of course not go all the way end but you know, spirited driving.

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

It doesn't sound like you intend to DD the car in the winter, but it would make it more stable in snowy conditions.

I'd add a better FMIC & 1.75" silicone inlets before I added an LSD

Also, double check to make sure that JB4 will clear the CEL codes that the car will make with downpipes.

Ah yes that was my other question I forgot to ask. I see everyone panicking in the old threads and saying tires spin so easy can't even drive in winter.

I will use the car in winter but I don't DD all the way to work I usually drive to the bus park.

But on the subject, I thought a set of good tires would be good enough, even without LSD. So I'm not sure if people are overreacting here trying to drive up a hill full of ice in summer tires or not.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal

Like I mean I'll try to take highway curves as fast as possible but I might of course not go all the way end but you know, spirited driving.

LSD would be absolutely not necessary for that spirited driving. Spend your money on other upgrades. Or just save your money.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal

Ah yes that was my other question I forgot to ask. I see everyone panicking in the old threads and saying tires spin so easy can't even drive in winter.

I will use the car in winter but I don't DD all the way to work I usually drive to the bus park.

But on the subject, I thought a set of good tires would be good enough, even without LSD. So I'm not sure if people are overreacting here trying to drive up a hill full of ice in summer tires or not.

I set of Bridgestone Blizzak WS80 or Michelin X-Ice Xi3. Either or....... My rear end is a 3.46. It's got me through 10 winters here in Michigan. No LSD. I do have a set of dedicated tires & rims I use 4 months out of the year. I use Michelin's.

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by feuer

LSD would be absolutely not necessary for that spirited driving. Spend your money on other upgrades. Or just save your money.

Nice. I'll do some basic mods like tune a intake and downpipe.

Just gotta find that one 335is... they are damn rare.

While we are on the subject of the car. Is the 6 speed or DCT better to handle more HP than stock?

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal

Nice. I'll do some basic mods like tune a intake and downpipe.

Just gotta find that one 335is... they are damn rare.

While we are on the subject of the car. Is the 6 speed or DCT better to handle more HP than stock?

Personally, if I was going to do a tune, I'd do MHD. I'd talk to them about your question. If you email them, they are good about getting back to you in a couple of days, at worst.

If you get the DCT, it might limit you with transmission type flashes such as the Alpina flash.

I don't think the 335is is all that rare. In certain colors and with certain equipment yes. Look into the 2011, if you want to save some $$ or if money is not an issue get a 2013. You should be able to get a 2013 with under 40,000 miles on it pretty easily. Personally, a car like that, I'd only buy it from a dealer. Dealers only keep and sell trade ins that are in good/ great condition to begin with. All other cars get sold to auction. If you don't want to pay the dealer price, at least pay a reputable dealer the $200-50 to have the car checked out before you buy it.

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Personally, if I was going to do a tune, I'd do MHD. I'd talk to them about your question. If you email them, they are good about getting back to you in a couple of days, at worst.

If you get the DCT, it might limit you with transmission type flashes such as the Alpina flash.

I don't think the 335is is all that rare. In certain colors and with certain equipment yes. Look into the 2011, if you want to save some $$ or if money is not an issue get a 2013. You should be able to get a 2013 with under 40,000 miles on it pretty easily. Personally, a car like that, I'd only buy it from a dealer. Dealers only keep and sell trade ins that are in good/ great condition to begin with. All other cars get sold to auction. If you don't want to pay the dealer price, at least pay a reputable dealer the $200-50 to have the car checked out before you buy it.

I was thinking JB4 for tune.

In Canada they're not very common we can say... not a lot will pop up for sale by BMW dealers either.

I already planned on doing a PPI from somewhere good if I went to buy from a private dealer for sure.

In my budget the mileage seem to be differing a lot. There are some with 60 000KM and some all the way up with 135 000km in similar price range.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal

I was thinking JB4 for tune.

In Canada they're not very common we can say... not a lot will pop up for sale by BMW dealers either.

I already planned on doing a PPI from somewhere good if I went to buy from a private dealer for sure.

In my budget the mileage seem to be differing a lot. There are some with 60 000KM and some all the way up with 135 000km in similar price range.

Bide your time and be selective. 335is is a special car. In Canada, I didn't know they were that rare. Hmm... learned something today.

I'd be using apps on my phone like Auto trader daily. DCT trans uses Pentosin as a trans fluid. Not cheap....just an FYI......

I always liked the Lemans Blue with that car. That's a rare color, for that car in the states.

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Bide your time and be selective. 335is is a special car. In Canada, I didn't know they were that rare. Hmm... learned something today.

I'd be using apps on my phone like Auto trader daily. DCT trans uses Pentosin as a trans fluid. Not cheap....just an FYI......

I always liked the Lemans Blue with that car. That's a rare color, for that car in the states.

Yeah even base 335i or the new 435i, like 70% are auto and xdrive.

That's good to know, I'll prioritise manual then I didn't have a driving preference between the 2 but the one with easier maintenance, cheaper and easier to take hp would be the one I would go for. Might install LSD and do a crazy build in the future who knows but for now base jb4 is what I'm looking for in terms of HP in a car.

Lemans blue wow not a bad color. Altough I would prefer it more vibrant! White is my fav color for the 335

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal

Yeah even base 335i or the new 435i, like 70% are auto and xdrive.

That's good to know, I'll prioritise manual then I didn't have a driving preference between the 2 but the one with easier maintenance, cheaper and easier to take hp would be the one I would go for. Might install LSD and do a crazy build in the future who knows but for now base jb4 is what I'm looking for in terms of HP in a car.

Lemans blue wow not a bad color. Altough I would prefer it more vibrant! White is my fav color for the 335

M-factory - there is a good diy on the forum; you can order new diff bearings with it. $1300.00 this includes bearings. Claims the process by which it's constructed (made), that it's the best LSD on the market.

Wavetrac - there is a good diy on YouTube for this one. It's basically the same process - $1300.00 by itself. Has fairly good track record or reliability almost equal to Quaife.

Quaife - claims to have the best longevity with fewest repairs etc of the 3. $1500 by itself. Extremely reliable.

With a stick shift, you won't be able to do the DIY by itself. You will have to send it in to have the weld broke from the gear. You need to read up on this. It's either that or you just order a pumpkin with the LSD already done. This will add about $1200.00 to your cost making an M-factory pumpkin with new diff bearings around $2300.00.

With a DCT, I don't "think" they have a welded diff.

Pros & Cons

[feuer]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

With a DCT, I don't "think" they have a welded diff.

All manual, DCT and diesels have welded diff Regarding oil for DCT being expensive: who cares? Isn't like you do that with every oil change. Most owners don't do it.

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by feuer

Regarding oil for DCT being expensive: who cares? Isn't like you do that with every oil change. Most owners don't do it.

\

Right but I do plan to keep the car at least 5+ years.

Would you say then a manual or DCT will give less trouble?

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by feuer

All manual, DCT and diesels have welded diff Regarding oil for DCT being expensive: who cares? Isn't like you do that with every oil change. Most owners don't do it.

Gotcha, ya I didn't know if they did or didn't, but thought maybe because the DCT really acts more or less like an automatic that it "might not" be welded.

You are right on the change interval. You don't technically have to change the OEM Pentosin until 100,000 Miles and then maybe every 50,000 after that going forward. It's just like $15-20.00 a quart vs $8-11.00 a quart.

No issues... I learned something more today...

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal

\

Right but I do plan to keep the car at least 5+ years.

Would you say then a manual or DCT will give less trouble?

I don't think either transmission has a track record where they are considered problematic. The ZF auto transmissions are very stout. BMW, at least in my opinion, makes very good motors and transmissions. It's the stuff "around" the motor that is problematic in addition to the 6 seals.

1) OFHG
2) VC
3) Front Crank Seal
4) Rear Main Seal
5) Oil Pan Gasket
6) Megatronic Sleeve.

I have changed all of these on my car.

Items "around the car" would be items like the water pump & thermostat, or turbos (wastegate), injectors, etc.

When looking at a 335 (n54), between 75,000 miles & 125,000 miles you are going to be doing a lot of work on it, in order to keep it in tip, top condition.

I have replaced the injectors, the water pump & thermostat. My turbos are OEM w/ 153,000 miles on them and run strong, after I fixed the wastegate rattle on both turbos. I don't know how long they will actually go, until I have to actually replace them. My best guess is maybe another 30,000 miles or so.

Brakes last a long time on BMW's and shocks & struts have normal longevity (around 75,000 miles).

My best advice to you would to by the 335is you want. Drive it a year and then start to do upgrades. You are going to want to get familiar with the car and begin to start to change out items the typically wear out or just need to be replaced at certain intervals. Having a work history accompany the car from day 1 would be gold. You probably won't find that unless you are buying the car from the original owner.

There is a laundry list of items you want to be fairly new or brand new, on the car, before you do a tune or you will run into problems.

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

I don't think either transmission has a track record where they are considered problematic. The ZF auto transmissions are very stout. BMW, at least in my opinion, makes very good motors and transmissions. It's the stuff "around" the motor that is problematic in addition to the 6 seals.

1) OFHG
2) VC
3) Front Crank Seal
4) Rear Main Seal
5) Oil Pan Gasket
6) Megatronic Sleeve.

I have changed all of these on my car.

Items "around the car" would be items like the water pump & thermostat, or turbos (wastegate), injectors, etc.

When looking at a 335 (n54), between 75,000 miles & 125,000 miles you are going to be doing a lot of work on it, in order to keep it in tip, top condition.

I have replaced the injectors, the water pump & thermostat. My turbos are OEM w/ 153,000 miles on them and run strong, after I fixed the wastegate rattle on both turbos. I don't know how long they will actually go, until I have to actually replace them. My best guess is maybe another 30,000 miles or so.

Brakes last a long time on BMW's and shocks & struts have normal longevity (around 75,000 miles).

My best advice to you would to by the 335is you want. Drive it a year and then start to do upgrades. You are going to want to get familiar with the car and begin to start to change out items the typically wear out or just need to be replaced at certain intervals. Having a work history accompany the car from day 1 would be gold. You probably won't find that unless you are buying the car from the original owner.

There is a laundry list of items you want to be fairly new or brand new, on the car, before you do a tune or you will run into problems.

Damn those crank and main seals sound bad to replace?

But I do plan to DIY most things I can do.

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

BMW, at least in my opinion, makes very good motors

*cough* e9x M3 *cough*

Haha but yeah, if the motor are solid, and the N54 seems to be, with that modern 2jz nickname is good to hear.

I'm really happy to hear about your turbos. In my head the turbos would be a bitch and read some stories where they died at like 100 000 miles.

Is your car stock psi?

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal

Damn those crank and main seals sound bad to replace?

But I do plan to DIY most things I can do.

*cough* e9x M3 *cough*

Haha but yeah, if the motor are solid, and the N54 seems to be, with that modern 2jz nickname is good to hear.

I'm really happy to hear about your turbos. In my head the turbos would be a bitch and read some stories where they died at like 100 000 miles.

Is your car stock psi?

The turbos aren't hard, it's just a lot of work. There plenty of good/ great DIY's.

It would be a job that I would definitely take my time.

I have my entire intake system upgraded.

FMIC, Bigger CAI, 1.75" Silicone Inlets & 2" Outlets

Plus I have upgraded my entire exhaust.

I don't have a tune. When I get new turbos, perhaps.

I will get new coils & plugs from FCP as well as new turbo actuators at that time. (Lifetime Warranty)

My injectors have a lifetime warranty.

Tunes cut the service life of coils, injectors, turbos, & plugs in half.

That would be the only way I'd get a tune if all the "laundry list items" were under lifetime warranty.

One thing you absolutely, positively need to do from day one, once you get a 335is is get a catch can an Rob Beck PCV & Metal cap. I'd suggest the Mishimoto catch can. I'd also replace the crank case valve near the PCV valve as well.