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Should I get VCG and water pump replaced at 70k miles?
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07-15-2019, 08:09 PM | #1 |
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Should I get VCG and water pump replaced at 70k miles?
My 2011 328i just hit 70k miles last week and I was wondering if now it's a good time to get the valve cover gasket and water pump replaced?
My oil filter housing gasket and oil pan gasket both have been replaced and those went out at 60k and 65k so I'm thinking the next gasket to go would be the valve cover one. As for the water pump, I read somewhere that the LCI water pumps were resigned so they are a bit more reliable but wanted to confirm if that was true or not? |
07-16-2019, 11:03 AM | #4 | |
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The water pump? Weeeell - what is your tolerance for being stranded on the side of the road? Because it WILL strand you when it goes, usually with very little warning. I too think LCI waterpumps are lasting a lot longer on average though. Personally, I plan to replace my water pump at 100K. Which at my current rate of putting miles on my car will be roughly 2049...
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07-16-2019, 11:17 AM | #5 |
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Logically you wanly replace a part when
1. It has failed 2. You are accessing an area that is very hard to access and have removed alot of parts to get there and will be replacing a part that has not failed with a genuine BMW part. Say you have to do a oil pan gasket and might wanna replace a mount or the water pump. |
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07-16-2019, 03:46 PM | #7 |
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I personally replaced my thermostat and water pump at around 105,000 miles because the thermostat needed replacing. I have a private mechanic so it didn't break the wallet. I wouldn't replace the valve cover gasket on a BMW unless you see leaking. The OFHG should be replaced if you see it leaking down onto the belt(s), which someone pointed out above.
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07-30-2019, 03:50 PM | #9 | |
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Given the very low rate of miles being put on my car, it will be interesting to see when the usual suspects start leaking. Currently at 46K, getting 2K a year - sleeps in a cool/cold dry garage 9+ months a year.
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07-31-2019, 10:10 AM | #10 |
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The pump P/N was revised in May 2008 IIRC. I replaced my pump at 149,500 in July 2011 when it failed. The new pump now has lasted 230,000 miles with not once throwing a code. Buy a BMW scan tool and scan the car every 3 months for codes. Once you get a WP code, then replace the pump. This is good practice for E90s that have high miles on them.
If the pump stops and the engine overheats, you can usually let it cool down and then drive it home. |
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07-31-2019, 10:33 AM | #11 | |
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So for the average person, there is probably a happy medium that depends on one's tolerance for dealing with issues. I prefer to fix things on MY schedule, so I don't mind spending money before it is technically needed to ensure reliability for parts that are known failure points. If you are using your car on a regular commute only, yeah, maybe you can limp it home. That is not my use case. My 2000 miles a year tends to be 300 mile round trips to my office in Boston in the summer when I am in Maine. If I was looking for lowest TCO and never having to touch anything I would buy a used Prius...
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07-31-2019, 10:33 AM | #12 |
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my original pump went at 130,000 miles. no, I don't think replacing it at 70k makes any sense at all. Maybe after 100k if you want to do it preventatively.
Don't confuse it with the plastic housing pumps on the N54 that crack and fail much earlier. On both N52 cars that I've had pumps fail, I limped them home without issue. Of course if I had been in Seattle or something, that wouldn't have been possible, but there's at least BMW dealers there to work on it. |
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07-31-2019, 01:14 PM | #13 | |
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Thank you, maybe that's why I was thinking of replacing the pump because I was confusing the N52 with the N54 pump.
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07-31-2019, 02:18 PM | #14 |
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If you have triple AAA, and thus free towing, just replace the Water pump & thermostat when they go. If your car is your DD, you will be taking a few vacation days, until you get parts and get her back on the road, assuming you don't have another car.
If it were me ( I'm assuming you have an n54 or 55), I wouldn't touch the VC until you know you have a leak. Just periodically check the back side (Firewall side) with a telescopic mirror that has an LED light. That's where it will most likely start to leak. As far as the water pump, any milage past 75,000 miles is borrowed time in my book. I'd look for a sale on a water pump & thermostat. You will want to change the U shaped connector pipe as well. Labor Day is coming up soon. Maybe get a deal then or look at Black Friday in November. Plan on spending $400.00 or so if these items aren't on sale. Best bet is FCP Euro with a lifetime warranty. |
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07-31-2019, 02:22 PM | #15 | |
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07-31-2019, 04:58 PM | #16 |
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176,000 miles on my original water pump and no leaks. Something must be wrong.
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07-31-2019, 05:18 PM | #17 | |
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07-31-2019, 05:19 PM | #18 |
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My 2007 328 had 149,000 on the stock water pump before the car was totaled. As far as the VCG - I noticed slight misfires caused by hard acceleration during lower RPM's, which was caused by the valve cover gasket leaking into the spark plug tubes around 120,000 miles.
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07-31-2019, 05:22 PM | #19 | |
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I knew for months before I replaced mine that it had error codes. Ten one day the fan went full speed at startup and I decided to replace it scan your junk monthly and it won't be a surprise. also, my factory pump made it to 142K miles before popping a communications error. |
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07-31-2019, 05:43 PM | #21 |
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I had my water pump go out ~45k on a 2012 N55 e92. Had plenty of warning signs weeks ahead of major issues....fan kept running for no reason many weeks ahead of the codes and eventual temp rises before towing to get fixed. Just didn't connect the dots until after the fact.
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07-31-2019, 08:08 PM | #22 | |
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Its funny to think you have to include major components as regular maintenance. Its not a Boeing 747. Whatever makes you happy. |
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