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      05-12-2020, 05:16 AM   #1
bugra101
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ST Suspension Kit or Bilstein B12 Pro Kit?

I`m planning on a suspension refresh on my daily driver 2009 LCI 325d e91 in near future. I got it down to 2 sets of kit, which are:

Bilstein B12 Pro kit or ST Suspension kit linked below;

https://www.dcperformance.co.uk/chea...t23220090.html

I`m not after a drop per se but after less body roll and comfortable ride in town/motorway journeys. I will also add PSB poly anti roll bar bushes (less dense than powerflex) and probably M3 control arms in the front once I go down the route of changing the suspensions. or should I really bother with control arms?

Given ST is made by KW - can I assume these would be decent quality?

There is no info on the net for this ST kit in terms what sort of ride it offers, where Bilstein B12 has divided opinion.

Another option would be get B4 dampers all around and keep the springs stock but given the car is now 11 years old. Springs probably do need refreshing, If I were to get 4 new springs; cost of this oem sport springs + b4 dampers setup comes to around £440-450.

I know aftermarket springs are pita to match especially on tourings for the possible high loads where those kits mentioned above are pretty much vehicle specific to e91 6 pot diesel estates, I hate it when one part number covers coupes, estates, hatcbacks etc etc...

Can someone shed light into my concerns?

Thanks in advance.
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      05-12-2020, 09:39 AM   #2
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I also have a 2009 LCI 325d, mines an SE though. I fitted Eibach Pro springs with B4 (the ones for M sport) dampers. Its rides well with very similar height to M sport set up.

I've had a lot of weight in the car and the springs took it like the OEM set up would, no rubbing etc.

Just to add if you want less body roll you might want to consider upgraded anti roll bars as these will have a greater effect on body roll. Eibach do a good set. I was going to upgrade mine to M sport spec. However the thought (cost) of dropping the rear subframe then another goemetry reset put me off.
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      05-12-2020, 05:20 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silver Streek View Post
I also have a 2009 LCI 325d, mines an SE though. I fitted Eibach Pro springs with B4 (the ones for M sport) dampers. Its rides well with very similar height to M sport set up.

I've had a lot of weight in the car and the springs took it like the OEM set up would, no rubbing etc.

Just to add if you want less body roll you might want to consider upgraded anti roll bars as these will have a greater effect on body roll. Eibach do a good set. I was going to upgrade mine to M sport spec. However the thought (cost) of dropping the rear subframe then another goemetry reset put me off.
I have the Eibach pro sport springs with bilstein b4 (OEM equivalent) on the rear and the back end feels so nice! It's firm but not crashy at all.

But as silver streek said you'll get a massive improvement putting on some upgraded anti roll bars, I've seen videos and in comparison our stock roll bars are a joke and have been called a "twig" compared to aftermarket ones. You must change both the front and rear, the front is easy but the rear will need to subframe lowering. I've replaced my subframe and from the top of my head the one thing that may be tedious is the fact you need to remove two brake hard lines from the passenger side of the subframe and there's a high chance they will twist so maybe factor that in as a possibility.
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      05-12-2020, 05:36 PM   #4
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i had the ST coilovers on my E92 335i for over 100K miles. Bilstein's are obviously also quality so you can't go wrong there, especially if you aren't looking to go very low, but I think the ST's are a solid cost saving option if you don't plan on going to the track.
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      05-12-2020, 06:03 PM   #5
bugra101
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Thanks for all the comments, I took my car for a tracking today to a reputable Porsche specialist called Ninemeister. Mechanic checked my suspension and said its all fine so I`m going to hold on for the moment for suspension. He was spot on tbh.

However I need new tie rod ends to complete the tracking as current ones are seized, first the Mechanic said they wouldn't charge extra when I bring the car back for toe alignment and then the manager said they will have the charge for the front again??

Also previously I had vibrations going over 110mph(I know) vibrations seems to have disappeared now but he said my wheels were so bent no machine could align balance them even their road forca balance machine.

So going to get tie rod ends sorted and wheel straightened now. sigh...
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      05-12-2020, 07:39 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bugra101 View Post
Thanks for all the comments, I took my car for a tracking today to a reputable Porsche specialist called Ninemeister. Mechanic checked my suspension and said its all fine so I`m going to hold on for the moment for suspension. He was spot on tbh.

However I need new tie rod ends to complete the tracking as current ones are seized, first the Mechanic said they wouldn't charge extra when I bring the car back for toe alignment and then the manager said they will have the charge for the front again??

Also previously I had vibrations going over 110mph(I know) vibrations seems to have disappeared now but he said my wheels were so bent no machine could align balance them even their road forca balance machine.

So going to get tie rod ends sorted and wheel straightened now. sigh...
I had the same thing happen when I took it to Chemix, the nut was seized and with my permission he proceeded to try and undo the hut despite telling me it will likely snap and it did just that. But, with a new tie rod/track rod you just replace the lot anyway, a little copper grease and tightening to the recommended torque on newtis should help prevent that. Also with the charge for the alignment I went to Chemix twice and on both occasions there was issue (seized nut) and they couldn't loosen the camber arm nut in the rear and said applying more force may break the nut so it would be best to do it at home as it won't be safe to drive if they broke it
. Point is though, they wouldn't charge me for an alignment because it wasnt aligned.. If anything it was more like an assessment so it's a bit crap to charge you for that.
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      05-13-2020, 03:24 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrSweet1991 View Post
I had the same thing happen when I took it to Chemix, the nut was seized and with my permission he proceeded to try and undo the hut despite telling me it will likely snap and it did just that. But, with a new tie rod/track rod you just replace the lot anyway, a little copper grease and tightening to the recommended torque on newtis should help prevent that. Also with the charge for the alignment I went to Chemix twice and on both occasions there was issue (seized nut) and they couldn't loosen the camber arm nut in the rear and said applying more force may break the nut so it would be best to do it at home as it won't be safe to drive if they broke it
. Point is though, they wouldn't charge me for an alignment because it wasnt aligned.. If anything it was more like an assessment so it's a bit crap to charge you for that.
Exactly, I have been to other places where they check and couldn't align so they didn't charge. These guys 4 wheel alignment fee is £140 which I paid and he is still asking me to pay them for the toe alignment once I replace tie rods.

He also refused to give me the alignment print out because job is still open - I thought what a BS! but the mech guy left a copy in the car before taking out so I got that.

I think they are used to robbing off loaded Porsche drivers.
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      05-13-2020, 03:30 AM   #8
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I had my suspension refreshed last October, I went down the OEM Sachs M Sport Damper route, but changed my springs to the Eibach Pro Kit ones. It's been a really good upgrade as the car isn't too low and I can get over speed bumps without scrapping. It has made the car handle a lot better.
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      05-13-2020, 06:36 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bugra101 View Post
Exactly, I have been to other places where they check and couldn't align so they didn't charge. These guys 4 wheel alignment fee is £140 which I paid and he is still asking me to pay them for the toe alignment once I replace tie rods.

He also refused to give me the alignment print out because job is still open - I thought what a BS! but the mech guy left a copy in the car before taking out so I got that.

I think they are used to robbing off loaded Porsche drivers.
Yeah this all sounds a bit weird to me, my experience has been the opposite but with that said I was getting mine done at Chemix in Stourbridge by a chap called Simon and there's threads on the Internet mentioning Simon due to his great knowledge on alignments and suspensions in general, it was him that told me he wouldn't charge the alignment as its more like an assessment and now with the prices going from £66 to £120ish you ideally want to pay that once because for us who work on our own cars you could buy a complete transmission service for that money.

If its at all possible I would contemplate finding a new wheel alignment shop, I know Chemix have the hunter machines which are phenomenal. Also, if the toe was slightly out and you have the print out then adjust your new tie rod/track rods to the same length and then loosen or tighten just a tad to compensate for the toe in or out that's shown on your sheet, with any luck you might actually get it that close its in the green or that close they may not even charge you.. Worth a shot maybe..
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      05-13-2020, 07:48 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrSweet1991 View Post
Yeah this all sounds a bit weird to me, my experience has been the opposite but with that said I was getting mine done at Chemix in Stourbridge by a chap called Simon and there's threads on the Internet mentioning Simon due to his great knowledge on alignments and suspensions in general, it was him that told me he wouldn't charge the alignment as its more like an assessment and now with the prices going from £66 to £120ish you ideally want to pay that once because for us who work on our own cars you could buy a complete transmission service for that money.

If its at all possible I would contemplate finding a new wheel alignment shop, I know Chemix have the hunter machines which are phenomenal. Also, if the toe was slightly out and you have the print out then adjust your new tie rod/track rods to the same length and then loosen or tighten just a tad to compensate for the toe in or out that's shown on your sheet, with any luck you might actually get it that close its in the green or that close they may not even charge you.. Worth a shot maybe..
Definitely not going there again, there is another decent tyre place here that does Hunter 4 wheel aligment for £70. But didn’t have road force balancer. Lesson learned.
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      05-13-2020, 07:50 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DriverLDN View Post
I had my suspension refreshed last October, I went down the OEM Sachs M Sport Damper route, but changed my springs to the Eibach Pro Kit ones. It's been a really good upgrade as the car isn't too low and I can get over speed bumps without scrapping. It has made the car handle a lot better.
Looking more into this people have good experience with that or Eibach Pro springs + Bilstein B4S dampers which works out as £380 at Autodoc. Which what I’d do once my suspension is shot.
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      05-13-2020, 09:35 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bugra101 View Post
Looking more into this people have good experience with that or Eibach Pro springs + Bilstein B4S dampers which works out as £380 at Autodoc. Which what I’d do once my suspension is shot.
The Bilstein B4S was the route I was going down as well originally. Only reason I stuck with Sachs was after talking to the guys at Eibach, they said that with Sachs I'd see the smallest drop height. I usually drive the car with 4 of in and kids stuff in the boot so it made sense for me to stick with Sachs. Th price for the kit you're looking at is great, definately go for it once they are required. My rears dampers were done at 107k miles.

This is what mine looks like after the work was done, hope it helps:





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      05-13-2020, 10:42 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DriverLDN View Post
The Bilstein B4S was the route I was going down as well originally. Only reason I stuck with Sachs was after talking to the guys at Eibach, they said that with Sachs I'd see the smallest drop height. I usually drive the car with 4 of in and kids stuff in the boot so it made sense for me to stick with Sachs. Th price for the kit you're looking at is great, definately go for it once they are required. My rears dampers were done at 107k miles.

This is what mine looks like after the work was done, hope it helps:





Thanks for info! I think I saw this car while browsing the forum. Have you looked into using Eibach + standart B4’s assuming they’d match SE dampers.

What other parts you’ve replaced along with suspensions if you don’t mind me asking?
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      05-13-2020, 11:18 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DriverLDN View Post
The Bilstein B4S was the route I was going down as well originally. Only reason I stuck with Sachs was after talking to the guys at Eibach, they said that with Sachs I'd see the smallest drop height. I usually drive the car with 4 of in and kids stuff in the boot so it made sense for me to stick with Sachs. Th price for the kit you're looking at is great, definately go for it once they are required. My rears dampers were done at 107k miles.

This is what mine looks like after the work was done, hope it helps:
When I put the Eibach Pro Sport springs on I honestly didn't notice any drop, that said when I had the alignment done they took the weights back out the car as there must have been some sort of additional drop, I'll get a picture of mine so you can compare Eibach springs with Sachs and Bilstein B4's

I would also replace the top and bottom shock mounts and bump stops, the bottom mounts looked okay but once removed they where cracking, the top mounts where so bad! Rust and corrosion ruined the top mounts on mine.
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      05-13-2020, 04:17 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bugra101 View Post
Thanks for info! I think I saw this car while browsing the forum. Have you looked into using Eibach + standart B4’s assuming they’d match SE dampers.

What other parts you’ve replaced along with suspensions if you don’t mind me asking?
I just went with what Eibach advised in the end and I've been really happy with the setup. When I had the dampers and springs changed I ordered new bump stops, top mounts, the rubber bits that the springs sit on. I ordered that from Cotswold BMW, no idea on part numbers, but the guy I spoke to knew what I needed and said he'd send me a suspension refresh kit. I also changed the front lower control arms as well at the same time as well and then had all the geo done on a Hunter alignment system. All in, it's transformed the car and kept it practical. It does sit a tad lower than on the M Sport springs though.
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      05-15-2020, 06:26 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DriverLDN View Post
I just went with what Eibach advised in the end and I've been really happy with the setup. When I had the dampers and springs changed I ordered new bump stops, top mounts, the rubber bits that the springs sit on. I ordered that from Cotswold BMW, no idea on part numbers, but the guy I spoke to knew what I needed and said he'd send me a suspension refresh kit. I also changed the front lower control arms as well at the same time as well and then had all the geo done on a Hunter alignment system. All in, it's transformed the car and kept it practical. It does sit a tad lower than on the M Sport springs though.
With your alignment did they have to remove the weights from the car? They said they had to do that with mine.
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      05-16-2020, 02:02 AM   #17
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With your alignment did they have to remove the weights from the car? They said they had to do that with mine.
What sort of weights?
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      05-16-2020, 05:54 AM   #18
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Quote:
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What sort of weights?
With the 4 wheel alignment they usually stick weights in the car, they're literally like little tubs?

I had to have a quick Google because to me it was to simulate a loaded car or something but this may explain it better

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/top...ink_source=app
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      05-17-2020, 04:11 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrSweet1991 View Post
With the 4 wheel alignment they usually stick weights in the car, they're literally like little tubs?

I had to have a quick Google because to me it was to simulate a loaded car or something but this may explain it better

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/top...ink_source=app
Wow! I don't think they put weights in the car. It is very hard to find someone that knows what they are doing.
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      05-17-2020, 05:46 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bugra101 View Post
Wow! I don't think they put weights in the car. It is very hard to find someone that knows what they are doing.
That's why I and many people on the net seem to mention Simon a lot at Chemix in Stourbridge.. Like this chap for example with a different suspension setup took his car in and Simon knew all about it

https://forums.mbclub.co.uk/threads/...bridge.132094/

I'm glad I randomly decided to go here, it's a good 25/30 min drive but well worth it
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