Broken rear sway bar end link bolt

Welcome to NBA Jam · 07-22-2018, 02:10 PM

When swapping out my rear sway bar end link, the lower bolt head sheared right off. I haven't been successful in removing the remaining piece. What would you all recommend? I do not have access to a welder, and may end up taking it to a shop if I can't seem to remove it.

I've tried slotting it with a Dremel and using a screwdriver, but it's pretty stuck and a very tight space.

Welcome to NBA Jam · 07-23-2018, 06:36 AM

FYI: You can get to it from the back after removing the toe arm bolt.

Welcome to NBA Jam · 07-25-2018, 02:58 PM

This ended up being a huge hassle. I tied the sway bar to the upper control arm with airplane wire so it wouldn't contact the axle boot. A nut had to be welded to the broken bolt, and lots of heat applied. In order to do apply heat safely, they needed to remove the whole knuckle. You can save yourself some time and money by removing the knuckle and bringing it to a machine shop for removal, but I had no other car to use.

Be careful removing those. Spray lots of penetrating fluid on both sides, and use an impact if you can get one in there. Let it sit overnight ideally. I used a little anti-seize when replacing it.

Bimmer_Engineer · 07-25-2018, 03:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Welcome to NBA Jam

This ended up being a huge hassle. I tied the sway bar to the upper control arm with airplane wire so it wouldn't contact the axle boot. A nut had to be welded to the broken bolt, and lots of heat applied. In order to do apply heat safely, they needed to remove the whole knuckle. You can save yourself some time and money by removing the knuckle and bringing it to a machine shop for removal, but I had no other car to use.

Be careful removing those. Spray lots of penetrating fluid on both sides, and use an impact if you can get one in there. Let it sit overnight ideally. I used a little anti-seize when replacing it.

Glad it worked out for you...

BTW...this sounds miserable...

Welcome to NBA Jam · 07-25-2018, 03:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bimmer_Engineer

Glad it worked out for you...

BTW...this sounds miserable...

It was incredibly lame. I would've just removed the sway bar, but I need to lower the subframe to do it. I bit the bullet and had someone else do it the next day at a shop only half a mile down the road.

I think it's time for me to invest in some "uh oh" equipment, and have some extra hardware laying around before I work on things that could keep me from driving.

e90yyc · 07-25-2018, 03:37 PM

Thanks for sharing you experience man and indeed, glad it worked out.

It sucks not having a second vehicle... There isn't much I WOULDN'T attempt if I had another car to get me around while I struggle and take two weeks to finish a 6-hour job.

Hats off to you for attempting it. It's a good way to learn.

07-22-2018, 02:10 PM	#1
Welcome to NBA Jam Is it the shoes!? 3884 Rep 5,112 Posts Drives: (Sold) 2011 E92 335i ZMP 6MT Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: USA iTrader: (1)	Broken rear sway bar end link bolt When swapping out my rear sway bar end link, the lower bolt head sheared right off. I haven't been successful in removing the remaining piece. What would you all recommend? I do not have access to a welder, and may end up taking it to a shop if I can't seem to remove it. I've tried slotting it with a Dremel and using a screwdriver, but it's pretty stuck and a very tight space.
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07-23-2018, 06:36 AM	#2
Welcome to NBA Jam Is it the shoes!? 3884 Rep 5,112 Posts Drives: (Sold) 2011 E92 335i ZMP 6MT Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: USA iTrader: (1)	FYI: You can get to it from the back after removing the toe arm bolt.
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07-25-2018, 02:58 PM	#3
Welcome to NBA Jam Is it the shoes!? 3884 Rep 5,112 Posts Drives: (Sold) 2011 E92 335i ZMP 6MT Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: USA iTrader: (1)	This ended up being a huge hassle. I tied the sway bar to the upper control arm with airplane wire so it wouldn't contact the axle boot. A nut had to be welded to the broken bolt, and lots of heat applied. In order to do apply heat safely, they needed to remove the whole knuckle. You can save yourself some time and money by removing the knuckle and bringing it to a machine shop for removal, but I had no other car to use. Be careful removing those. Spray lots of penetrating fluid on both sides, and use an impact if you can get one in there. Let it sit overnight ideally. I used a little anti-seize when replacing it.
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07-25-2018, 03:37 PM	#6
e90yyc Art Collector 2424 Rep 3,449 Posts Drives: 2007 328xi (GM-delete 6MT) Join Date: Feb 2018 Location: Canada iTrader: (0)	Thanks for sharing you experience man and indeed, glad it worked out. It sucks not having a second vehicle... There isn't much I WOULDN'T attempt if I had another car to get me around while I struggle and take two weeks to finish a 6-hour job. Hats off to you for attempting it. It's a good way to learn.
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