[Zearkos]

I am embarrassed to admit this, but I... don't understand the lighting system on my 2011 335xi. I do know that it's an LCI with adaptive headlights, xenon headlights, fog lights, light package.... I honestly don't even know how to explain it all.

My problem is that my low beams are either dimming out, or my beam pattern is aimed way too low. When driving, I only have 6-10ft (2-3m) of visibility in clear weather conditions. This isn't too bad when driving in the city at night, but highways are not comfortable to drive on with limited visibility.

The priority is to have better lighting distance from low-beams when driving at night (High beams are fine as is). Secondary thought is upgrading the lighting system to LEDs or HIDs, which I am completely lost on. Would the projectors need to be changed, does the Angel Eye system need to be upgraded as well, will I be able to maintain usage of my high beams?

All my data I have is theoretical. I can do the VO and module coding for these machines, but I can't understand what I have and what I should do.

I've coded in for others changing their tail lights/reverse lights to LEDs to disable the cold and warm checks, and I have seen that some people did a headlight upgrade and it required disabling the (adaptive or auto-leveling, I can't remember) headlight system, as well as a secondary coding change to enable the Halogens to be used for high-beams. All of that, I can understand. But the actual hardware side of things, I am completely lost.

I also would not be surprised if all of the parts (other than what i've put my hands on and fixed) are original from factory parts. IF that makes a difference.

If this isn't too noob of a question, I would appreciate any assistance I can get.

Here's the VIN decoder for all of my options, so there's no having to ask if I have something:
S1CAA Selection of COP-relevant vehicles
S2VBA Tyre pressure display
S203A 4-wheel drive
S205A Automatic transmission
S248A Steering wheel heater
S302A Alarm system
S319A Integrated universal remote control
S322A Comfort access
S4ABA Fine wood trim burr walnut
S4NAA Interior mirror with digital compass
S4NEA Blow-by heater
S403A Glass roof, electrical
S415A Sun-blind, rear
S417A Roller sun visor, rear door
S430A Interior/outside mirror with auto dip
S431A Interior mirror with automatic-dip
S459A Seat adjustment, electric, with memory
S465A Through-loading system
S488A Lumbar support, driver and passenger
S494A Seat heating driver/passenger
S502A Headlight cleaning system
S507A Park Distance Control (PDC), rear
S521A Rain sensor
S522A Xenon Light
S524A Adaptive Headlights
S534A Automatic air conditioning
S544A Cruise control with brake function
S563A Light package
S570A Reinforced power supply
S6AAA BMW TeleServices
S6ABA Control, Teleservices
S6FLA USB/audio interface
S6UHA Traffic Information
S6VCA Control, Combox
S609A Navigation system Professional
S615A Extended BMW Online Information
S620A Voice control
S639A Preparation f mobile phone cpl. USA/CDN
S655A Satellite tuner
S688A Harman/Kardon surround sound system
S697A Area-Code 1 for DVD
S8SCA Telematics access request,country-spec.
S8SPA Control unit COP
S8S4A Decoding, variable light distribution
S8TLA Dummy-SALAPA
S8TNA Daytime driv.lights adjus.via light menu
S925A Dummy-SALAPA
S2SZA BMW LA wheel multi-spoke 284
S240A Steering wheel, leather
S249A Multifunction f steering wheel
S497A Centre armrest, rear
S5DSA Emergency release, luggage compartment
S520A Fog lights
S645A BMW US Radio
S823A Hot-climate version
S845A Acoustic fasten seat belt reminder
S850A Dummy-SALAPA
S853A Language version, English
S876A Radio frequency 315 MHz
S992A Control of number-plate attachment

[LuxAngelEyes]

Can you post a picture of your headlights so we can take a look at them. if you have a 335 then you should already have Xenon headlights on the car. It sounds like there may be a problem with the bulb or ballast if you cant see at night

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by Zearkos

I am embarrassed to admit this, but I... don't understand the lighting system on my 2011 335xi. I do know that it's an LCI with adaptive headlights, xenon headlights, fog lights, light package.... I honestly don't even know how to explain it all.

My problem is that my low beams are either dimming out, or my beam pattern is aimed way too low. When driving, I only have 6-10ft (2-3m) of visibility in clear weather conditions. This isn't too bad when driving in the city at night, but highways are not comfortable to drive on with limited visibility.

The priority is to have better lighting distance from low-beams when driving at night (High beams are fine as is). Secondary thought is upgrading the lighting system to LEDs or HIDs, which I am completely lost on. Would the projectors need to be changed, does the Angel Eye system need to be upgraded as well, will I be able to maintain usage of my high beams?

All my data I have is theoretical. I can do the VO and module coding for these machines, but I can't understand what I have and what I should do.

I've coded in for others changing their tail lights/reverse lights to LEDs to disable the cold and warm checks, and I have seen that some people did a headlight upgrade and it required disabling the (adaptive or auto-leveling, I can't remember) headlight system, as well as a secondary coding change to enable the Halogens to be used for high-beams. All of that, I can understand. But the actual hardware side of things, I am completely lost.

I also would not be surprised if all of the parts (other than what i've put my hands on and fixed) are original from factory parts. IF that makes a difference.

If this isn't too noob of a question, I would appreciate any assistance I can get.

Here's the VIN decoder for all of my options, so there's no having to ask if I have something:
S1CAA Selection of COP-relevant vehicles
S2VBA Tyre pressure display
S203A 4-wheel drive
S205A Automatic transmission
S248A Steering wheel heater
S302A Alarm system
S319A Integrated universal remote control
S322A Comfort access
S4ABA Fine wood trim burr walnut
S4NAA Interior mirror with digital compass
S4NEA Blow-by heater
S403A Glass roof, electrical
S415A Sun-blind, rear
S417A Roller sun visor, rear door
S430A Interior/outside mirror with auto dip
S431A Interior mirror with automatic-dip
S459A Seat adjustment, electric, with memory
S465A Through-loading system
S488A Lumbar support, driver and passenger
S494A Seat heating driver/passenger
S502A Headlight cleaning system
S507A Park Distance Control (PDC), rear
S521A Rain sensor
S522A Xenon Light
S524A Adaptive Headlights
S534A Automatic air conditioning
S544A Cruise control with brake function
S563A Light package
S570A Reinforced power supply
S6AAA BMW TeleServices
S6ABA Control, Teleservices
S6FLA USB/audio interface
S6UHA Traffic Information
S6VCA Control, Combox
S609A Navigation system Professional
S615A Extended BMW Online Information
S620A Voice control
S639A Preparation f mobile phone cpl. USA/CDN
S655A Satellite tuner
S688A Harman/Kardon surround sound system
S697A Area-Code 1 for DVD
S8SCA Telematics access request,country-spec.
S8SPA Control unit COP
S8S4A Decoding, variable light distribution
S8TLA Dummy-SALAPA
S8TNA Daytime driv.lights adjus.via light menu
S925A Dummy-SALAPA
S2SZA BMW LA wheel multi-spoke 284
S240A Steering wheel, leather
S249A Multifunction f steering wheel
S497A Centre armrest, rear
S5DSA Emergency release, luggage compartment
S520A Fog lights
S645A BMW US Radio
S823A Hot-climate version
S845A Acoustic fasten seat belt reminder
S850A Dummy-SALAPA
S853A Language version, English
S876A Radio frequency 315 MHz
S992A Control of number-plate attachment

If you have Xenon Lights and they are too low you can adjust them. Start small maybe with 1/2 or 1 turn increments and test on the street or against a wall 25 feet in front of you. You can google how to adjust them.

It's best to be on the street and in traffic as you don't want to blind others. I try to aim mine so they don't go above rear trunk lids of cars in front of me. If you are blinding them from the rear you definitely are blinding on coming.

If you feel the bulbs are "dim", Xenon/HID Bulbs generally last about 7 years before they start to lose output, you may be due for an upgrade. You can just purchase replacements of the bulbs. No need to change ballast (until they fail). You should replace it with high-quality bulbs like Philips or Osram. They are OE replacements. Cheap Generic Knock offs may cause harm to your ballasts.

[Peter Morrin]

You have Bi-Xenon, adaptive headlights. These are the outer lights. They should move up and down to adjust for load in the trunk, and should move left and right as you turn the steering wheel. The up and down function should be visible when you first start the car with the light switch in auto position. You should see the lights go up and down. The left and right function will be apparent when you turn the wheel. Check to see that both these functions are working. You should also research "headlight alignement of BMW adaptive headlights". Given the automatic features, there may not be any manual adjustment options. Others will need to comment.

The inner headlights may be high beams or cornering lights depending on the year. This will require more research.

The OEM Halo lights used a glass tube that created circles around each headlight and was placed in front of the projectors. It was powered by a single replaceable bulb. This system is fragile and special care is required if you remove the lenses. Many people replace this system with LEDs such as made by LUX. There should be lots of information available.

As stated, the Xenon bulbs in your Bi-Xenon headlights are likely at the end of their life. There are many HID bulbs available in different colours. There are some who claim to have found replacement LED bulbs that work with the OEM HID projectors, although others claim the optics are not compatible. You need to read the arguments and make your own decision.

The ballasts that go with Xenon lights may deteriorate over time, but an expert would need to advise on that issue. Ballasts are availble new or used and mount to the outside of the light.

Given your location, your lenses are almost certainly deteriorated from winter driving. A complete sand, polish, UV coating, and film protection is likely required. There are lots of demonstrations on You-tube how to do this. Once your lenses are polished you can re-assess the condition of the lighting components. If you are close to Evergreen, Co. the Walmart there will polish your lights for $25 each. A good price, but I have no idea about QA/QC. You would still need to apply a UV protectant and film protection.

Your lenses are sealed with "Permaseal". This makes them difficult to separate. I have not yet done this, but it looks like a heat gun, screw-driver and patience are required. A simple bake in the over does not appear to work like it does with butyl rubber sealant.

You need to open your lenses if you replace projectors or want to do cosmetic modifications inside the lights. Replacing bulbs or the ballasts does not require removing the lense. I am not sure about replacement of the angle-eye system.

The M-sport bumper uses a round fog light, while the non M-sport uses a triangular assembly tucked in the outside corners. Morimoto make a direct replacement (XB) for the M-sport, but not the triangular lights. Some people have actually installed Bi-Xenon projectors in the headlight location, but I would worry about them getting wet, as most are meant to be inside sealed headlight assemblies. There are some good posts on this forum.

I hope this gives an over-view of the forward lights for our cars. I understand the confusion. There are experts who have done some or all of these modifications and may correct what I have said.

[Peter Morrin]

You have Bi-Xenon, adaptive headlights. These are the outer lights. They should move up and down to adjust for load in the trunk, and should move left and right as you turn the steering wheel. The up and down function should be visible when you first start the car with the light switch in auto position. You should see the lights go up and down. The left and right function will be apparent when you turn the wheel. Check to see that both these functions are working. You should also research "headlight alignement of BMW adaptive headlights". Given the automatic features, there may not be any manual adjustment options. Others will need to comment.

The inner headlights may be high beams or cornering lights depending on the year. This will require more research.

The OEM Halo lights used a glass tube that created circles around each headlight and was placed in front of the projectors. It was powered by a single replaceable bulb. This system is fragile and special care is required if you remove the lenses. Many people replace this system with LEDs such as made by LUX. There should be lots of information available.

As stated, the Xenon bulbs in your Bi-Xenon headlights are likely at the end of their life. There are many HID bulbs available in different colours. There are some who claim to have found replacement LED bulbs that work with the OEM HID projectors, although others claim the optics are not compatible. You need to read the arguments and make your own decision.

The ballasts that go with Xenon lights may deteriorate over time, but an expert would need to advise on that issue. Ballasts are availble new or used and mount to the outside of the light.

Given your location, your lenses are almost certainly deteriorated from winter driving. A complete sand, polish, UV coating, and film protection is likely required. There are lots of demonstrations on You-tube how to do this. Once your lenses are polished you can re-assess the condition of the lighting components. If you are close to Evergreen, Co. the Walmart there will polish your lights for $25 each. A good price, but I have no idea about QA/QC. You would still need to apply a UV protectant and film protection.

Your lenses are sealed with "Permaseal". This makes them difficult to separate. I have not yet done this, but it looks like a heat gun, screw-driver and patience are required. A simple bake in the over does not appear to work like it does with butyl rubber sealant.

You need to open your lenses if you replace projectors or want to do cosmetic modifications inside the lights. Replacing bulbs or the ballasts does not require removing the lense. I am not sure about replacement of the angle-eye system.

The M-sport bumper uses a round fog light, while the non M-sport uses a triangular assembly tucked in the outside corners. Morimoto make a direct replacement (XB) for the M-sport, but not the triangular lights. Some people have actually installed Bi-Xenon projectors in the headlight location, but I would worry about them getting wet, as most are meant to be inside sealed headlight assemblies. There are some good posts on this forum.

I hope this gives an over-view of the forward lights for our cars. I understand the confusion. There are experts who have done some or all of these modifications and may correct what I have said.