[TonyValuez]

Hello Everyone, Im Tony V new to this great forum, and also owning a BMW.

However I have worked on vehicles before, and am currently working on this vehicle to bring her back to pristine condition.

Here's an issue I've had so far....

I bought the car from an auto shop back in the spring, the car Cleary needed work, however I liked how the car looked, and etc. I do not know what or is anything has happened to the car from pervious owners, and I do know how the Maintence history of the vehicle, it however has good bones so far.

Now on to the issue at hand, I have multiple codes, but the biggest headache right now is the

CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR A CIRCUIT.

Ive typed that into google so much it probably thinks that's my name.


I bought a new one from advanced auto parts, and yesterday put it on, hoping to fix the issue I went to start her and she still had a slow start, but still started. cleared the codes, and drove it around and came back home and the same code was still there.

Stumped I unplugged it, and swapped it with the good OEM sensor from Bank B.

Cleared the codes, drove it around and still the same code for Crank shaft sensor A.

Stumped I went inside defeated and did more research in which I found not oem sensors can be faulty or just not work, so I went back to advanced auto to try to see if switching it out would work, I did that and still nothing, however when I switch the non gem sensor to Bank B it works, and it seems maybe to be a connector issue.

When I first took the Bank A sensor off it had corrosion around it like a battery, so I used some Electrical component spray and cleaned it up hoping that would fix the issue, it however did not.

I have tried multiple steps and still cannot figure it out, im thinking it's a faulty connector since the sensor worked on Bank B.

Im trying to fix this myself before sending her to a shop, but if anyone knows anything they can help im all ears.

Thank you and glad to be here.

[Mantraxalos]

The crankshaft sensor and camshaft sensor are different. Please clarify which error was displayed.

[TonyValuez]

Originally Posted by Mantraxalos

The crankshaft sensor and camshaft sensor are different. Please clarify which error was displayed.

Sorry about that I realized that after reposting, its the crankshaft position sensor that would be in the back corner of the engine, specifically the code is P0335

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by TonyValuez

Sorry about that I realized that after reposting, its the crankshaft position sensor that would be in the back corner of the engine, specifically the code is P0335

Welcome to the Forum!
I realize you are new to BMW Diagnostics. 1st thing to remember is that DETAILS Matter. We can help you with specific suggestions of "Next Steps" if you answer the following:

1) What Make/Model Scan Tool, or diagnostic software (INPA/ISTA) are you using to read fault codes?

2) Do you have a Multimeter to read Voltage, & Ohms/ Resistance?

3) WHAT Fault Codes (either Hex-code or P-code) are read in DME (Engine Control Module)? You say you have "multiple codes". We don't know if that is ONE DME code (P0335) or OTHER DME Fault Codes.

4) What, if ANY, performance issues or Warning Lights does the car have? You state "slow start". Do you mean the Starter Cranks the engine more slowly than you expect? What IS RPM during Starter Cranking, either per Tach or per Scan Tool showing RPM Parameter? Do you mean the Starter Cranks the engine at normal RPM (180 - 200 RPM) but engine takes longer than normal 1 to 2 seconds to fire/run.

We need "Empirical Data" or actual facts and NOT vague impressions or UN-defined terms. That is NOT intended to be critical of you. MOST folks these days do NOT approach an issue in a scientific fashion, and THAT FACT prevents proper understanding of the issue.

If the DME received NO signal from the Crankshaft Sensor, it could NOT time spark or injector pulse, and the engine would NOT fire on cranking. So apparently you have SOME signal, but a wiring or connector problem between the sensor and DME, but intermittent or "Implausible" (out of expected range), particularly if there is SOME Tach/ RPM reading during Starter Cranking (BEFORE engine fires) AND you have installed replacement Crankshaft Position Sensor. So please carefully test for RPM during cranking with whatever tools are available to you, the tach, or even "Hidden Menu 1.01" per this link:
https://www.carsaddiction.com/articl...er-hidden-menu

With answers to questions above, someone can offer specific suggestions of "Next Steps".
George

[e90yyc]

Getting a BMW-specific/capable scanner will make diagnostics much easier. Generic P-codes aren’t nearly as useful as BMW-specific hex codes, which can provide much more precise information.

Not an absolute requirement, but is money well spent. Cheapest is buy cable and install free software; alternately handheld scanner options exist for less than $200.

[TonyValuez]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

Welcome to the Forum!
I realize you are new to BMW Diagnostics. 1st thing to remember is that DETAILS Matter. We can help you with specific suggestions of "Next Steps" if you answer the following:

1) What Make/Model Scan Tool, or diagnostic software (INPA/ISTA) are you using to read fault codes?

2) Do you have a Multimeter to read Voltage, & Ohms/ Resistance?

3) WHAT Fault Codes (either Hex-code or P-code) are read in DME (Engine Control Module)? You say you have "multiple codes". We don't know if that is ONE DME code (P0335) or OTHER DME Fault Codes.

4) What, if ANY, performance issues or Warning Lights does the car have? You state "slow start". Do you mean the Starter Cranks the engine more slowly than you expect? What IS RPM during Starter Cranking, either per Tach or per Scan Tool showing RPM Parameter? Do you mean the Starter Cranks the engine at normal RPM (180 - 200 RPM) but engine takes longer than normal 1 to 2 seconds to fire/run.

We need "Empirical Data" or actual facts and NOT vague impressions or UN-defined terms. That is NOT intended to be critical of you. MOST folks these days do NOT approach an issue in a scientific fashion, and THAT FACT prevents proper understanding of the issue.

If the DME received NO signal from the Crankshaft Sensor, it could NOT time spark or injector pulse, and the engine would NOT fire on cranking. So apparently you have SOME signal, but a wiring or connector problem between the sensor and DME, but intermittent or "Implausible" (out of expected range), particularly if there is SOME Tach/ RPM reading during Starter Cranking (BEFORE engine fires) AND you have installed replacement Crankshaft Position Sensor. So please carefully test for RPM during cranking with whatever tools are available to you, the tach, or even "Hidden Menu 1.01" per this link:
https://www.carsaddiction.com/articl...er-hidden-menu

With answers to questions above, someone can offer specific suggestions of "Next Steps".
George

Thank you for replying with this good info, Ok so I did some testing today.

After going and buying another sensor which is a OEM one now.

1.I tested the voltage of the CPS Connector and it does work Voltage was 12.30 for the Power and Neutral. And 4.90 For the signal and Neutral.

That rules out a faulty connector.

Next I tested the CPS Sensor while it's on the connector, this is where things get weird.

with the neutral grounded to the car ground, and the positive on the signal wire of the CPS sensor the reading was 1.90 every time, and when I put something metal on the end of the sensor the reading did not change, it did stick, but the reading did not change.

So I then checked fuses and none were blown.


I also checked for any messed up wires but I didn't see any as far as I looked around.

Now here goes the final part, I went, and checked the battery, I let the lights run for 2 mins as said on YouTube, and then checked.

The readings for the battery were around 11.90 and then after I turned the lights off it went to 12.20.

With the low voltage readings, im starting to think the battery is going bad. If a wire were severed to the CPS connector I wouldn't get a reading on it when I Tested it, however the numbers were a little lower then normal.

Im also using a MaxiScan reader for the car, definitely no anything fancy but I was able to pull up a PID for the code so I can upload them if you would like?

Also RPMS are normal a little 50 rpm variation on start but that's due to the poor crankshaft timing which causes that.

And it takes about 3-5 seconds for the car to start when I push the button, it starts every time but that's how long it taking, and when I clear the codes the first thing that pops up is the Crankshaft Position Sensor A

Also Other codes that are popping up, some obviously due to the CPS.

P1727
P2419
P0305
P0301
P0302

I have also bought new OEM spark plugs and coils which will be here next week.

[Mauricio’s oldnewE90]

I have the same issue.. did you get it fixed? Hoping to get an answer from an old post