[shehab_e90]

Hello
I have a 2006 325i E90 with 135k miles on it and won't start. after I parked and tried to start it again the dashboard lights come on but the car won't crank at all. I can hear a faint humming sound when I press the button to start. I had it towed home and when I tried to disconnect my battery; traction control, abs, brakes lights all came on and won't go away. I am not sure if those lights are related or not to the car not starting but I noticed them when I tried to disconnect the battery and wouldn't go away after putting everything together. I made sure the batter is charged and tried to start the car again and no success. there are no codes in the system. I tried knocking on the started in hopes of getting to start while someone is starting; it only made sounds as if it is trying to crank but hits a stop. like ticking sound for 1 sec and then gives up. the battery is fine 100%.

couple days before whenever I took a hard speed bump the car would shut off for couple secs and the same lights (abs, traction, and brakes would come on) and then it will turn on automatically. mostly after I can hear the movement of the stuff in the trunk that's when it would turn off

please help

Thanks

[Shiny.E90]

When you say “try” what do you mean? Did you not fully disconnect the battery? Did you just wiggle it around?

[gbalthrop]

I notice that you posted a photo of your battery in another thread 5 days ago, with similar complaint of warning lights and a concern about a loose connection. From THAT thread & THIS thread, I am unable to offer any help unless you can answer a few questions:

1) When was the battery shown in that photo (posted 5 days ago) installed & by whom?
2) Why do you NOT have an IBS on the Negative Battery Terminal?
2a) WHEN was the Brown Negative Battery Cable shown in the photo installed & by whom?
3) When did you begin having issues with Warning Lights appearing on Instrument Cluster?
4) Do you have a Multimeter & know how to read voltage?
5) Do you have a Battery Charger?
6) Do you have or have access to a Scan Tool that can read either P-codes or BMW Fault Codes (Hex Codes), and if so, what Brand/ model?

If you will let us know the answers to those questions, someone can suggest tests you can do which will help locate the cause of your (1) NO Crank, & (2) Instrument Cluster "light show."

George

[shehab_e90]

Originally Posted by Shiny.E90

When you say “try” what do you mean? Did you not fully disconnect the battery? Did you just wiggle it around?

I attempted to disconnect the wire from the positive terminal that connects above the distribution box but then heard the car making notification sounds (for the traction control and abs. after that I did disconnect the batter completely and taken it out to charge using a charger

[shehab_e90]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

I notice that you posted a photo of your battery in another thread 5 days ago, with similar complaint of warning lights and a concern about a loose connection. From THAT thread & THIS thread, I am unable to offer any help unless you can answer a few questions:

1) When was the battery shown in that photo (posted 5 days ago) installed & by whom?
2) Why do you NOT have an IBS on the Negative Battery Terminal?
2a) WHEN was the Brown Negative Battery Cable shown in the photo installed & by whom?
3) When did you begin having issues with Warning Lights appearing on Instrument Cluster?
4) Do you have a Multimeter & know how to read voltage?
5) Do you have a Battery Charger?
6) Do you have or have access to a Scan Tool that can read either P-codes or BMW Fault Codes (Hex Codes), and if so, what Brand/ model?

If you will let us know the answers to those questions, someone can suggest tests you can do which will help locate the cause of your (1) NO Crank, & (2) Instrument Cluster "light show."

George

thanks for your response
1. that is a stock battery picture that I used because of the wire it had circled, I attached a picture of my battery (I did disconnect the blue battery cable that is for the IBS I believe and still not starting.) battery is a dualast gold installed in November 2016 and did not have any issue with the battery. correct size battery

2. I have an ibs there.

2a. sorry for using the other picture,

3. couple of months ago I had the seat belt and airbag lights come on, I ignored it because wasn't sure if it was the map sensor in the seat (I think). it has been 2 weeks since whenever I take a speed bump fast, the car turns off shortly and the lights come on (traction control, abs, brakes) for like 1 second and then everything back to normal.

I think this doesn't relate, every now and then I get a dmtl (leak detection pump code for being too high current) when the car died there was that code but I think it has been there for a while. this started couple months ago and comes like once every 5 weeks or so,

4. I have a simple multimeter like the one below. I think I can figure out how to read the voltages using it

5. I have a battery charger that plugs in and charges at the rate of 12v6amp
I also have battery jump box

6 the code reader I have at home is a simple OBDII simple reader that's the one I used, I can also use this "Innova ABS/SRS+ CanOBD2 Scan Tool" I can use as well.

the powder on the battery is from a polishing compound that blew on there but NOT corrosion

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by shehab_e90

...3. couple of months ago I had the seat belt and airbag lights come on, I ignored it because wasn't sure if it was the map sensor in the seat (I think). it has been 2 weeks since whenever I take a speed bump fast, the car turns off shortly and the lights come on (traction control, abs, brakes) for like 1 second and then everything back to normal...
4. I have a simple multimeter like the one below. I think I can figure out how to read the voltages using it.
5. I have a battery charger that plugs in and charges at the rate of 12v6amp
I also have battery jump box
6 the code reader I have at home is a simple OBDII simple reader that's the one I used, I can also use this "Innova ABS/SRS+ CanOBD2 Scan Tool" I can use as well.

In your first post, you stated:
"2006 325i E90 with 135k miles on it and won't start. after I parked and tried to start it again the dashboard lights come on but the car won't crank at all. I can hear a faint humming sound when I press the button to start."
You also stated:
"couple days before whenever I took a hard speed bump the car would shut off for couple secs and the same lights (abs, traction, and brakes would come on) and then it will turn on automatically. mostly after I can hear the movement of the stuff in the trunk that's when it would turn off"

My initial impression is that you have a loose connection to the battery, either in the Ground Cable or the Positive (B+) Cable. You say "I can hear the movement of the stuff in the trunk that's when it would turn off." Trying to identify WHAT precisely is causing the sound you hear in the trunk when it shuts down would appear to be key. If the sound you hear is like a "Dull Thunk" such as a loose battery might make if bumping up/down on the battery compartment floor, then do the following:
1) See if you can rotate the battery or move it side-to side with moderate force;
2) See if you can lift either the front or rear of the battery; Lift by battery case ONLY -- do NOT pull up on cables, Power Distribution Panel or IBS;
3) Check to see that BOTH the Positive & Negative Battery Terminals are TIGHT. I would be particularly concerned with the Negative Cable, either at the Negative battery post, OR at the Chassis connection, since that can get impacted if battery is loose;
4) There is supposed to be a "Hold-down" clamp at the rear of the battery, to keep the battery from moving. Your photos appear to show the battery move Rearward and INward, as if the hold-down is missing;
5) Let us know the results of those examinations.

So if the Starter will NOT crank, we want to do the following:
1) Measure Battery Voltage at the Battery Posts in the trunk;
2) Measure Battery Voltage at the Jumpstart Terminals under the hood;
3) Charge the Battery (connect @ Jumpstart Terminals) if Voltage < 12.2V for ~ an hour at 6Amp charge rate;
4) Disconnect Charger and measure Voltage at Jumpstart Terminals; record Voltage value;
5) Try to crank Starter (Press START Button with foot on brake); NOTE sounds heard from Starter area; IF "ratchet-like" clicking (~ 12 clicks per second) that suggests a loose connection in Power Supply to Starter, or Ground (need BOTH to complete "circuit").
6) IF Starter does NOT Crank engine, then immediately measure Voltage at Jumpstart Terminals, AND at battery posts, and record measurements.

If you have the HFT Multimeter shown in your last photo, download the pdf manual from HFT site and see how to use. You can't harm anything doing Voltage measurements (correctly ;-), either yourself or the vehicle's electrical system. Quick instructions per the photo you attached:
1) Plug Black Probe Connector into "COM" socket at bottom-right of meter face;
2) Plug Red Probe Connector into socket just above COM: V[Ohm]mA;
3) Rotate Selector Dial Counter-clockwise TWO clicks from position shown in the photo: to DCV (DC Voltage) "20" which allows you to read Voltage values up to 20 Volts DC (Direct Current).
4) Slide switch to ON position, Red Probe to Positive Battery Post or Jumpstart Terminal, and Black Probe to Negative or Ground; if you reverse the connection, there is NO damage to anything, the meter just reads (-) Negative value; you are merely measuring the "potential" difference between the components touched by the probes; NO current is flowing through the meter when you are measuring Voltage; you do NOT disconnect any wires.

Please let us know what you find,
George

[shehab_e90]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

In your first post, you stated:
"2006 325i E90 with 135k miles on it and won't start. after I parked and tried to start it again the dashboard lights come on but the car won't crank at all. I can hear a faint humming sound when I press the button to start."
You also stated:
"couple days before whenever I took a hard speed bump the car would shut off for couple secs and the same lights (abs, traction, and brakes would come on) and then it will turn on automatically. mostly after I can hear the movement of the stuff in the trunk that's when it would turn off"

My initial impression is that you have a loose connection to the battery, either in the Ground Cable or the Positive (B+) Cable. You say "I can hear the movement of the stuff in the trunk that's when it would turn off." Trying to identify WHAT precisely is causing the sound you hear in the trunk when it shuts down would appear to be key. If the sound you hear is like a "Dull Thunk" such as a loose battery might make if bumping up/down on the battery compartment floor, then do the following:
1) See if you can rotate the battery or move it side-to side with moderate force;
2) See if you can lift either the front or rear of the battery; Lift by battery case ONLY -- do NOT pull up on cables, Power Distribution Panel or IBS;
3) Check to see that BOTH the Positive & Negative Battery Terminals are TIGHT. I would be particularly concerned with the Negative Cable, either at the Negative battery post, OR at the Chassis connection, since that can get impacted if battery is loose;
4) There is supposed to be a "Hold-down" clamp at the rear of the battery, to keep the battery from moving. Your photos appear to show the battery move Rearward and INward, as if the hold-down is missing;
5) Let us know the results of those examinations.

So if the Starter will NOT crank, we want to do the following:
1) Measure Battery Voltage at the Battery Posts in the trunk;
2) Measure Battery Voltage at the Jumpstart Terminals under the hood;
3) Charge the Battery (connect @ Jumpstart Terminals) if Voltage < 12.2V for ~ an hour at 6Amp charge rate;
4) Disconnect Charger and measure Voltage at Jumpstart Terminals; record Voltage value;
5) Try to crank Starter (Press START Button with foot on brake); NOTE sounds heard from Starter area; IF "ratchet-like" clicking (~ 12 clicks per second) that suggests a loose connection in Power Supply to Starter, or Ground (need BOTH to complete "circuit").
6) IF Starter does NOT Crank engine, then immediately measure Voltage at Jumpstart Terminals, AND at battery posts, and record measurements.

If you have the HFT Multimeter shown in your last photo, download the pdf manual from HFT site and see how to use. You can't harm anything doing Voltage measurements (correctly ;-), either yourself or the vehicle's electrical system. Quick instructions per the photo you attached:
1) Plug Black Probe Connector into "COM" socket at bottom-right of meter face;
2) Plug Red Probe Connector into socket just above COM: V[Ohm]mA;
3) Rotate Selector Dial Counter-clockwise TWO clicks from position shown in the photo: to DCV (DC Voltage) "20" which allows you to read Voltage values up to 20 Volts DC (Direct Current).
4) Slide switch to ON position, Red Probe to Positive Battery Post or Jumpstart Terminal, and Black Probe to Negative or Ground; if you reverse the connection, there is NO damage to anything, the meter just reads (-) Negative value; you are merely measuring the "potential" difference between the components touched by the probes; NO current is flowing through the meter when you are measuring Voltage; you do NOT disconnect any wires.

Please let us know what you find,
George

Yes the battery is lose, the clamps have been off for a while. the battery does move under all the tests. I tightened and checked all the connections, the positive in the chassis, the positive on the battery, the negative on the battery and the negative on the chassis on the same wall as the trunk lock under the lining. they are all tight and I removed all terminals to check for rust. no rust.



the battery was low since I have been attempting to start it after every trial so I put it to charge again and will know the voltage at the front and back tomorrow

I attached a video of the attempt go starting the car. I think it matches what you described but not sure. if you wouldn't mind telling me if that is the "Try to crank Starter (Press START Button with foot on brake); NOTE sounds heard from Starter area; IF "ratchet-like" clicking (~ 12 clicks per second) that suggests a loose connection in Power Supply to Starter, or Ground (need BOTH to complete "circuit")."

and if it is, should I get to the starter (by taking the intake manifold off) and double check the connections are tight?

the video is 2 attempts to start. I uploaded it for easier use

thanks

[shehab_e90]

Originally Posted by shehab_e90

Yes the battery is lose, the clamps have been off for a while. the battery does move under all the tests. I tightened and checked all the connections, the positive in the chassis, the positive on the battery, the negative on the battery and the negative on the chassis on the same wall as the trunk lock under the lining. they are all tight and I removed all terminals to check for rust. no rust.



the battery was low since I have been attempting to start it after every trial so I put it to charge again and will know the voltage at the front and back tomorrow

I attached a video of the attempt go starting the car. I think it matches what you described but not sure. if you wouldn't mind telling me if that is the "Try to crank Starter (Press START Button with foot on brake); NOTE sounds heard from Starter area; IF "ratchet-like" clicking (~ 12 clicks per second) that suggests a loose connection in Power Supply to Starter, or Ground (need BOTH to complete "circuit")."

and if it is, should I get to the starter (by taking the intake manifold off) and double check the connections are tight?

the video is 2 attempts to start. I uploaded it for easier use

thanks

Solved, in case anyone runs into this issue in the future.

I took out the starer and tested it at autozone and it was a fail. I replaced the starter and everything went back to normal and no more lights.

[Mantraxalos]

I just read the thread and was about to say that was the exact mileage on mine when the starter went out, also 06 325i. Good job diagnosing though.

Originally Posted by shehab_e90

Solved, in case anyone runs into this issue in the future.

I took out the starer and tested it at autozone and it was a fail. I replaced the starter and everything went back to normal and no more lights.

[GUNN IT]

I had smilar problem 2 weeks ago, i was able to push start it (manual transmission), took it to BMW guy, and it was the starter. same exact symtoms like yours, lights were all on, when you press the button the car made couple seconds of humming sound, when starter was tapped it faintly wanted to start but didn't... all these.

It's your Starter that needs replacing...