[jcxq]

Hey guys
I'm lost a little, I'm hoping you guys can shine some light in the right direction....

I was driving down the road on a beautiful night music on blast enjoying some back roads, when all of a sudden the vehicle started to kind over heat and it went in limp mode and then finally it turned off.. So I said to my self shit the engine seized; Tried starting it it wouldn't do anything at all.

Towed it home, next morning i spin the engine by hand it moves freely so phew is not the engine but the problem still lies of why it doesn't start so i say to myself in a twisted world what if the heat took out the starter, and it did I took the started out bench tested it and nothing happened, so I said Hurray is the starter... bought a new one, Bench tested it it worked fine before I put it in; Put everything back together and nope Still nothing... so I'm like ok Let me replace the battery, nope nothing... Then I said ok Let me bypass the IBS... nope nothing.. So i take everything apart again! and give power to the starter starter works fine, but I went to test the Single plug that goes to the starter and it has no power... so I said ok fuses,
WEnt underneath the glovebox and tested all the fuses all fuses are good.....
Then I'm like okay let me see if the car is just not recognizing that is in park but I tried putting it in neutro and for some weird reason its stuck in park and it doesn't want to move...

Where can i go to from here

[NinetyEight740]

For starters, what kind of car?

[Delta0311]

Profile says M5 but subject line says E92, and does not mention the MOTOR; some serious confusion here....

[tcphoto]

There were no dash lights, CiC displays or was the music too loud? It sounds like a potential water pump issue but you kept driving? When mine went out, I pulled over, let it cool down and limped it the short distance home.

[relative4]

Have you not even pulled the codes?

[jcxq]

Sorry I meant to say is a 2008 328xi

[jcxq]

Originally Posted by tcphoto

There were no dash lights, CiC displays or was the music too loud? It sounds like a potential water pump issue but you kept driving? When mine went out, I pulled over, let it cool down and limped it the short distance home.

Even if it was the water pump should still be able to start; theres no power going to the starter.

[tcphoto]

Originally Posted by jcxq

Even if it was the water pump should still be able to start; theres no power going to the starter.

Unless you did further damage by continuing the drive it. There is no telling what happened until you investigate further and I'd start with reading codes.

[Delta0311]

Without pulling codes you are shooting blindly. Post up the codes.

[ptpending]

there is problem with wires from battery to engine compartment, they are routed via hole in battery compartment to outside and usually oxidise, become weak and break, sometime with fire
to check these outside connectors you need to remove rear right wheel, arch cover and you'll see them
this problem usually for cars in areas with snow, rain and high moisture like NY

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by jcxq

[2008 328xi E92]...all of a sudden the vehicle started to kind over heat and it went in limp mode and then finally it turned off...Tried starting it it wouldn't do anything at all...next morning i spin the engine by hand it moves freely...[so threw a NEW Starter & Battery at it -- WHY would you do that when the motor warning lights came on & Engine cut off while running?]...I went to test the Single plug that goes to the starter and it has no power... so I said ok fuses [should have said OK TIS circuit diagram, and you would have seen that the CAS provides the signal to the Starter Solenoid, and NOT via any fuse ]...tested all the fuses all fuses are good [NO surprise there ]... I tried putting it in neutral and for some weird reason its stuck in park and it doesn't want to move...Where can i go to from here...

My suggestion is to make a determination as to whether you have the time, incentive and tools to learn how your car works and diagnose things yourself (with help from the Forum ;-), or if not, simply tow it to the nearest Independent BMW specialist shop.

Before anyone on this forum can offer any meaningful advice other than the above, we need to have answers to the following QUESTIONS:
1) What warning lights appeared on the Instrument Cluster BEFORE the engine died?
2) When you tried to restart it, what lights appeared on the Instrument Cluster?
3) What sounds did you hear when you pressed the START button, and where did any sound come from?
4) Other than START activation, what else does NOT work in the car, such as Central Locking System, Entry Lights, Radio, Windows, Climate Control Panel, Blower functions, etc.?
5) Do you have a DMM (Digital Multimeter) and know how to use it? (We can suggest a $6 HFT (Harbor Freight Tools) unit that has downloadable instructions for use, and in LESS than an hour, you can do simple voltage tests to diagnose the issue.
6) Do you have a Scan Tool of any type?
7) Do you have a computer or other device that can connect to the Web & read information about your car, such as the following TIS circuit diagram showing Starter Activation by the CAS?

Here is a link to TIS circuit diagram for 2008 E92 328xi Starter (M6510a), showing activation via Black wire from Pin #22 of Connector X13376 at the CAS. Note that wire goes from the CAS to the E-box under the hood where it passes through Connectors X6011 & X60531:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...system/uXuCNh9
Here is the location of Connector X6011 in the E-box:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...xi-cou/SL92ADs

In summary, you appear to have several issues, one of which may be related to another. (1) Your "No-Start" issue is electrical or electronic in nature (NO activation of the Starter Solenoid by the CAS Module via the wiring identified above, and as you tested(?). However, you have another issue which caused the engine to shutdown after "UNspecified" warning lights or driving issues. That shutdown could have been caused by a number of things from Coolant Pump Failure to Alternator Overvoltage (which causes issues with Control Module performance & communication).

Your next step should be getting the least-expensive way of reading ALL Fault Codes saved in your DME (Engine Control Module) and ALL Freeze Frame Data or Details related to those codes. That Freeze Frame Data is as or MORE important than the codes themselves as it indicates conditions existing at the time the code was saved, such as SYSTEM VOLTAGE, ECTS Temp Signal, as well as mileage/km at the time the code was saved, so you can determine what faults occurred when, and whether an earlier fault led to a later fault or was unrelated.

Your car is smarter than most of us, 'cuz it was designed by people who knew what they were doing. We need to understand how the car is designed, and what information it retains when something malfunctions. If that is NOT your thing, then get it towed to a shop who knows how to do that.

George

[jcxq]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

My suggestion is to make a determination as to whether you have the time, incentive and tools to learn how your car works and diagnose things yourself (with help from the Forum ;-), or if not, simply tow it to the nearest Independent BMW specialist shop.

Before anyone on this forum can offer any meaningful advice other than the above, we need to have answers to the following QUESTIONS:
1) What warning lights appeared on the Instrument Cluster BEFORE the engine died?
2) When you tried to restart it, what lights appeared on the Instrument Cluster?
3) What sounds did you hear when you pressed the START button, and where did any sound come from?
4) Other than START activation, what else does NOT work in the car, such as Central Locking System, Entry Lights, Radio, Windows, Climate Control Panel, Blower functions, etc.?
5) Do you have a DMM (Digital Multimeter) and know how to use it? (We can suggest a $6 HFT (Harbor Freight Tools) unit that has downloadable instructions for use, and in LESS than an hour, you can do simple voltage tests to diagnose the issue.
6) Do you have a Scan Tool of any type?
7) Do you have a computer or other device that can connect to the Web & read information about your car, such as the following TIS circuit diagram showing Starter Activation by the CAS?

Here is a link to TIS circuit diagram for 2008 E92 328xi Starter (M6510a), showing activation via Black wire from Pin #22 of Connector X13376 at the CAS. Note that wire goes from the CAS to the E-box under the hood where it passes through Connectors X6011 & X60531:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...system/uXuCNh9
Here is the location of Connector X6011 in the E-box:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...xi-cou/SL92ADs

In summary, you appear to have several issues, one of which may be related to another. (1) Your "No-Start" issue is electrical or electronic in nature (NO activation of the Starter Solenoid by the CAS Module via the wiring identified above, and as you tested(?). However, you have another issue which caused the engine to shutdown after "UNspecified" warning lights or driving issues. That shutdown could have been caused by a number of things from Coolant Pump Failure to Alternator Overvoltage (which causes issues with Control Module performance & communication).

Your next step should be getting the least-expensive way of reading ALL Fault Codes saved in your DME (Engine Control Module) and ALL Freeze Frame Data or Details related to those codes. That Freeze Frame Data is as or MORE important than the codes themselves as it indicates conditions existing at the time the code was saved, such as SYSTEM VOLTAGE, ECTS Temp Signal, as well as mileage/km at the time the code was saved, so you can determine what faults occurred when, and whether an earlier fault led to a later fault or was unrelated.

Your car is smarter than most of us, 'cuz it was designed by people who knew what they were doing. We need to understand how the car is designed, and what information it retains when something malfunctions. If that is NOT your thing, then get it towed to a shop who knows how to do that.

George

I have ISTA,
ISTA says no communication to starter; I replaced the CAS RElay
when I turn on the vehicle all lights come on, as normal and also I do hear the chime.
see link below

When the vehicle over heated it over heated to up to 245 degrees and then it turned off showing just the temperature light being red.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by jcxq

I have ISTA, [if you have ISTA and know how to use it, you can read Fault Codes in ALL Modules, including CAS & DME, and post a screen of ALL Codes. You can then connect to EACH Module that has a fault code shown on the first list, and get Fault Definition, Fault Details & Freeze Frame Data for each such fault code; PrintScreen & post jpg file here. If you have that capability, you are just wasting YOUR time & OUR time by what you have posted to date.]
ISTA says no communication to starter; [How exactly does ISTA say that? Are you monitoring for Voltage at Terminal 50 when START is pressed with foot on Brake? Is that based upon a Fault Code, and if so WHAT Code?] I replaced the CAS RElay [I am NOT aware of any "CAS Relay" -- What did you replace exactly, located where (a photo would help)?]
when I turn on the vehicle all lights come on, as normal and also I do hear the chime [that doesn't look like a 2008 328xi in the "video" to me, and it looks like a video I've seen before -- is that YOUR vehicle?]...When the vehicle over heated it over heated to up to 245 degrees and then it turned off showing just the temperature light being red. [the temperature of WHAT went to 245 degrees -- oil or coolant, and how/where was that read on a 2008 328xi?]

A fault in the CAS Start Circuit (the only fault you have mentioned ISTA shows thus far) would NOT cause the car to overheat or to shut down during operation. PLEASE provide proper diagnostic information if you have ISTA and can at least read fault codes in ALL Modules. Based upon your description of what happened, there MUST be fault codes saved in the DME as well related to "overheat" or "shutdown."

George

[jcxq]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

A fault in the CAS Start Circuit (the only fault you have mentioned ISTA shows thus far) would NOT cause the car to overheat or to shut down during operation. PLEASE provide proper diagnostic information if you have ISTA and can at least read fault codes in ALL Modules. Based upon your description of what happened, there MUST be fault codes saved in the DME as well related to "overheat" or "shutdown."

George

Overheating was cause for not enough coolant in the car, cause I had just replaced the radiator and I told someone to top it off with coolant and it was bled properly.. thats the reason why it over heated; the issue now is that it doesn't start and there is no power going to the starter.

[marvinstockman]

Jump starter and at least see if it will crank.