[NJ 1161]

Great thread this!! Anyone done this in the uk??

Why does no one produce a kit though?? Surely this would be easy money??

I'm thinking i'm going to have a go at this

[Julesandtrish]

Go for it. It's really easy to do.

[NJ 1161]

Just to confirm is the opening of the air filter an 89mm i'm after??

I have seen a few of these on ebay at reasonable money.

[neovb]

You will need a filter with a 4" inlet (101mm)

Originally Posted by NJ 1161

Just to confirm is the opening of the air filter an 89mm i'm after??

I have seen a few of these on ebay at reasonable money.

[NJ 1161]

Topman. Thanks.

[YoKev]

You're kinda killing your power with it sucking in the super-heated engine compartent air. I tested 'cold'(ambient) air vs. motor-heated air on a dyno, on a measely 80hp motorcycle engine. More or less above 90degrees F, hp started to drop off pretty substantially, cuminating with an 8hp loss at 110deg. That's 8hp on an 80hp motor mind you.
Having said all that, I DO commend you on coming up with something, and making it happen. CONGRATS on that. Airflow both on the intake and exhaust side if pretty important however, so you'll prolly wanna make it as straight a shot as possible. Beyond that however, things like tube size, length of the tubing ALL play a significant part in not only how much power you gain or lose, but also WHERE the power shows up. Different length tubing can drastically change your powerband around.
I personally suffer from ADD, so I'm hoping a company out there has already done the engineering for me. The ONE point I WON'T waiver on however, is if I change out my airbox, it'll have to be for a TRUE, T-R-U-E COLD AIR DESIGN. I don't know about everyone else, but it seems that 90% of the 'CAI's' I see advertised aren't cold-air whatsover. They're sucking air straight outta the engine compartment. You gotta have a SEALED airbox that's plumbed either out the front, or into the fender well.
Of course I wrote all that out, and I don't even know if anyone's got a true CAI out for these things. I'm still comtemplating on pulling the trigger on the fuggin car itself. I only have 'til tomorrow...
P.S. forgive me for any and all jacked up spelling/grammar. It's late, and i'm on a new laptop, which I haven't uploaded ie spell yet.
My sincerest apologies.

[rakimb17]

Good point Yokev,
Back in my Grand National days, we removed the air filter from the engine compartment completely. Usually relocated to the driver side fender. Extreme difference in power. And you don't have to worry about you power dropping off after the car warms up. And yes, COLD AIR IS A BIG DEAL. Especially for people in warm areas. Difference between engine compartment and ambient is usually around 40deg.

OP
How is power after the car warms up on a warm day? I ask you because you have the heat shield thingy.
Thanks

[neovb]

I agree that having an open element intake will generally result in higher IATs. But, the point of a heatshield is to isolate the intake from any engine heat. As the pictures show, the only thing that was changed was the filter itself (and, of course, the factory air box was removed). The MAF piping, and any other piping into the turbo are all OEM. Additionally, the "ram air" scoop from the front of the car (the same piping which feeds the OEM air box) is redirected into the intake area, so theres still plenty of cold air coming in from outside.

If you look under the hood of a 335d, theres absolutely no room for any type of actual intake. Beyond the MAF pipe, the intake piping is very short and really cannot be reasonably upgraded. Likewise, theres no good or easy way to redirect an intake tube into the fender or anywhere else without cutting into metal.

After installing the open element filter and heatshield, I noticed that the car pulled better to redline, especially with the JBD set at 100%. It runs smoother, sounds amazing (my main goal) and I've had no heatsoak issues. Even on hot summer days with lots of humidity (DC is HOT) the car never felt slower than without the intake. And now with the temps generally falling into the 40's and 50's, it runs better than ever. Again, I dont think I would recommend running the open filter without a heatshield (when I did this, my car would throw SES lights and go into limp mode).

There are pretty much no aftermarket mods for this car (no intakes, no exhausts, etc.), aside from a few tunes which are available. So, everything has to be custom designed and is pretty much a one-off job. The 335d does not have anywhere near the aftermarket support of the 335i.

Originally Posted by YoKev

You're kinda killing your power with it sucking in the super-heated engine compartent air. I tested 'cold'(ambient) air vs. motor-heated air on a dyno, on a measely 80hp motorcycle engine. More or less above 90degrees F, hp started to drop off pretty substantially, cuminating with an 8hp loss at 110deg. That's 8hp on an 80hp motor mind you.
Having said all that, I DO commend you on coming up with something, and making it happen. CONGRATS on that. Airflow both on the intake and exhaust side if pretty important however, so you'll prolly wanna make it as straight a shot as possible. Beyond that however, things like tube size, length of the tubing ALL play a significant part in not only how much power you gain or lose, but also WHERE the power shows up. Different length tubing can drastically change your powerband around.
I personally suffer from ADD, so I'm hoping a company out there has already done the engineering for me. The ONE point I WON'T waiver on however, is if I change out my airbox, it'll have to be for a TRUE, T-R-U-E COLD AIR DESIGN. I don't know about everyone else, but it seems that 90% of the 'CAI's' I see advertised aren't cold-air whatsover. They're sucking air straight outta the engine compartment. You gotta have a SEALED airbox that's plumbed either out the front, or into the fender well.
Of course I wrote all that out, and I don't even know if anyone's got a true CAI out for these things. I'm still comtemplating on pulling the trigger on the fuggin car itself. I only have 'til tomorrow...
P.S. forgive me for any and all jacked up spelling/grammar. It's late, and i'm on a new laptop, which I haven't uploaded ie spell yet.
My sincerest apologies.

[rakimb17]

Good post op.
I guess I'll be trying this mod out as well.
I do recall some place to get custom-built k&n filters. Cant remember the name though.
I'll dig for it.

[neovb]

Some 335d owners on this forum have fabricated their own heatshields, otherwise At Speed Motorsports in Hanover, MD is the place that fabbed mine.

In terms of the filter, you can source a cheap one from eBay. Just look for a small conical filter with a 4" inlet.

[YoKev]

Originally Posted by neovb

I agree that having an open element intake will generally result in higher IATs. But, the point of a heatshield is to isolate the intake from any engine heat. As the pictures show, the only thing that was changed was the filter itself (and, of course, the factory air box was removed). The MAF piping, and any other piping into the turbo are all OEM. Additionally, the "ram air" scoop from the front of the car (the same piping which feeds the OEM air box) is redirected into the intake area, so theres still plenty of cold air coming in from outside.

If you look under the hood of a 335d, theres absolutely no room for any type of actual intake. Beyond the MAF pipe, the intake piping is very short and really cannot be reasonably upgraded. Likewise, theres no good or easy way to redirect an intake tube into the fender or anywhere else without cutting into metal.

After installing the open element filter and heatshield, I noticed that the car pulled better to redline, especially with the JBD set at 100%. It runs smoother, sounds amazing (my main goal) and I've had no heatsoak issues. Even on hot summer days with lots of humidity (DC is HOT) the car never felt slower than without the intake. And now with the temps generally falling into the 40's and 50's, it runs better than ever. Again, I dont think I would recommend running the open filter without a heatshield (when I did this, my car would throw SES lights and go into limp mode).

There are pretty much no aftermarket mods for this car (no intakes, no exhausts, etc.), aside from a few tunes which are available. So, everything has to be custom designed and is pretty much a one-off job. The 335d does not have anywhere near the aftermarket support of the 335i.

Do you have access to, and the money to have the thing mapped? Or at least have the AFR checked throughout the rpm range? Reason I ask is that if your set up is letting in a LOT more air, you'll need to add fuel to fully take advantage of it. The stock ecu is capable of adding only so much fuel. Usually not even enough for an aftermarket intake(on other cars... I read what you wrote about nothing being available for these things).
You didn't mention that the thing now stumbles or has flat spots-which would be an indicator that you've got too much air and not enough fuel, so you might be good to go.

[neovb]

I would love to have the thing fully remapped (timing, boost, fuel, etc.), but at this time that doesnt really seem to be a viable option in the US. There was a vendor on here that seemed to be moving in that direction, but I havent seen anything specific yet.

The car is chipped with the JBD module. The JBD, from what I understand, increases power/torque by injecting more fuel. Combined with the extra air from the intake, I think its a perfect combination.

And you are correct - no stumbling, no flat spots, no SES/limp mode issues, and the car feels more powerful than before.

[cssnms]

Originally Posted by YoKev

Do you have access to, and the money to have the thing mapped? Or at least have the AFR checked throughout the rpm range? Reason I ask is that if your set up is letting in a LOT more air, you'll need to add fuel to fully take advantage of it. The stock ecu is capable of adding only so much fuel. Usually not even enough for an aftermarket intake(on other cars... I read what you wrote about nothing being available for these things).
You didn't mention that the thing now stumbles or has flat spots-which would be an indicator that you've got too much air and not enough fuel, so you might be good to go.

AFR in a diesel engine doesn't really matter as much as it does on a gasoline engine. The diesel engine is throttled by fuel not air. Adding to much fuel and not enough air the car will just blow more black smoke and if running to lean it simply won't make more power. A diesel engine is a lot more simple in that regard. The name of the game is injection timing and effective boost management.

[Julesandtrish]

While looking in the engine bay today I noticed that there seems to be enough room to route piping from the front passenger side fog light area to the air filter. There is a pretty good size air hole (not sure if it's for brake cooling) coming out of the front passenger side wheel well. A stock D has a piece of mesh blocking this area from the front I believe, but I replaced mine with some black race mesh. Also, part of the front wheel well that would get the piping into the engine bay is made of plastic so it should be easy enough to cut through. Anyone else notice this?

[theskunk]

I had a v6 mustang that ran a similar setup:

http://image.mustang50magazine.com/f...harger_kit.jpg

Basically you route from your MAF down and out of the wheel well, and then curve straight down to get out of the engine bay entirely. You do get a bit of the engine heat directly on the pipe, but after doing some research they found that the engine heat on the pipe was only getting it about 3-5F over ambient temp, which was way better than engine direct temps.

Any word on the intake w/ the heat shield being available yet?

[theskunk]

Anything ever come of this? I'm up in the Hanover area fairly frequently and might be able to pick one up.

I'm also interested in finding a way to run a pipe just outside of the fender area if that is possible at all...

Can anybody take some pictures aiming the camera toward the front of the car and down into where the filter sits w/o the airbox in place?

[Puerto Rican 335d]

I personally did a change and as stated above the HEAT bomb of engine bay did take its toll, I used the AMSOIL EaAU4075 if I can recall YES the car ran beautifully but eventually felt as I had lost some power due in part to the engine bay heat(I did not come around for a DYNO but you could feel less lag and more boost), there is a guy in another forum(german boost) by the name of XX5, I believe he is the owner of Cx Racing and he modded an CAI for his X5d and it looks sweet, check it out.

@Joseph can you put that CAI picture so someone can develope something for us

[Chief Orman]

Originally Posted by YoKev

You're kinda killing your power with it sucking in the super-heated engine compartent air. I tested 'cold'(ambient) air vs. motor-heated air on a dyno, on a measely 80hp motorcycle engine. More or less above 90degrees F, hp started to drop off pretty substantially, cuminating with an 8hp loss at 110deg. That's 8hp on an 80hp motor mind you.
Having said all that, I DO commend you on coming up with something, and making it happen. CONGRATS on that. Airflow both on the intake and exhaust side if pretty important however, so you'll prolly wanna make it as straight a shot as possible. Beyond that however, things like tube size, length of the tubing ALL play a significant part in not only how much power you gain or lose, but also WHERE the power shows up. Different length tubing can drastically change your powerband around.
I personally suffer from ADD, so I'm hoping a company out there has already done the engineering for me. The ONE point I WON'T waiver on however, is if I change out my airbox, it'll have to be for a TRUE, T-R-U-E COLD AIR DESIGN. I don't know about everyone else, but it seems that 90% of the 'CAI's' I see advertised aren't cold-air whatsover. They're sucking air straight outta the engine compartment. You gotta have a SEALED airbox that's plumbed either out the front, or into the fender well.
Of course I wrote all that out, and I don't even know if anyone's got a true CAI out for these things. I'm still comtemplating on pulling the trigger on the fuggin car itself. I only have 'til tomorrow...
P.S. forgive me for any and all jacked up spelling/grammar. It's late, and i'm on a new laptop, which I haven't uploaded ie spell yet.
My sincerest apologies.

great stuff

[hobbyshop]

any updates on this project?

trying to wrap my head around it and have a few questions i can't quite figure out:

1) is the stock airbox/filter more restrictive/free flowing than a cone filter? it's a pretty large filter already
2) why can't the stock airbox be customized and used as the heatshield, while a cone filter replacing the guts?
3) for those with a vented hood, it essentially vents on top of where the airbox is.. would that make this setup that much more effective/feasible?

[iaknown]

Originally Posted by hobbyshop

any updates on this project?

trying to wrap my head around it and have a few questions i can't quite figure out:

1) is the stock airbox/filter more restrictive/free flowing than a cone filter? it's a pretty large filter already
2) why can't the stock airbox be customized and used as the heatshield, while a cone filter replacing the guts?
3) for those with a vented hood, it essentially vents on top of where the airbox is.. would that make this setup that much more effective/feasible?

Here's my latest revision. Almost got this wrapped up, just sorting out the design of the flange to accept the OEM snorkel.....

To answer your questions:
1)It seems the stock filter can flow enough but the airflow into the airbox is the problem. Tdiwyse has proven this to be an issue
2)The problem with this would be room, it's hard to find a cone filter to fit with no airbox let alone inside the airbox
3)That's an interesting idea! The ductwork would probably have to be pretty involved though