[jard]

Hey crew,

Has anyone completed or seen someone successfully complete a use for the blank buttons? I have done some digging and I see a few people attempting to reprogram the buttons, but i'm looking to make one into a switch for accessories.

My understanding is that BMW made the same template for all the cars in the era and pre programmed them to be used for the cars function if it was available.

My idea is to create a simple on/off switch with the use of a blank button for a more OEM feel. If it's not possible then I have a back up plan, although, thought I would reach out to see if it has been done before.

Cheers,
Jard

[Socket]

Originally Posted by jard

Hey crew,

Has anyone completed or seen someone successfully complete a use for the blank buttons? I have done some digging and I see a few people attempting to reprogram the buttons, but i'm looking to make one into a switch for accessories.

My understanding is that BMW made the same template for all the cars in the era and pre programmed them to be used for the cars function if it was available.

My idea is to create a simple on/off switch with the use of a blank button for a more OEM feel. If it's not possible then I have a back up plan, although, thought I would reach out to see if it has been done before.

Cheers,
Jard

Interested in this too

[vtl]

I've done this for the front fog light button (135is dont have front fogs). i put the guts of another switch into the blank switch for the fog and wired in my garage door remote into it.

I just cut the PCB trace for the fog light, scratched off the solder mask and soldered on wires to the garage door remote button pads.

Could do the same thing very easily with the blank buttons on the centre console panel.

[jard]

Originally Posted by vtl

I've done this for the front fog light button (135is dont have front fogs). i put the guts of another switch into the blank switch for the fog and wired in my garage door remote into it.

I just cut the PCB trace for the fog light, scratched off the solder mask and soldered on wires to the garage door remote button pads.

Could do the same thing very easily with the blank buttons on the centre console panel.

This is interesting, how did you cut the PCB trace?
I was almost thinking along the lines of finding a really small push button for the guts and making it fit between the board and the button face then just running the wires from that back

[jard]

Originally Posted by Socket

Interested in this too

I'm sure its possible. If I get it going I can let you know.

[vtl]

Originally Posted by jard

This is interesting, how did you cut the PCB trace?
I was almost thinking along the lines of finding a really small push button for the guts and making it fit between the board and the button face then just running the wires from that back

Just cut it with a scalpel. Can also use one of those small ballnosed diamond or stone bits on a dremel to cut the trace, very easy. Would be much more reliable and easier using the buttons on the board than trying to get a pushbutton thats got the correct height for the buttons on the panel.

From the wiring diagram, for the centre console switch looks like the individual button signals are not on the ribbon cable on the back of the switch, the buttons are sent via data to the heater controls, looks like a board mod would probably be the quickest and easiest way to utilize the switch.

If it was me, id pick up another switch from a wrecker that had some some extra buttons like the sunblind or hill descent, then you could put the puttons in your switch and do a pcb mod on it.

[jard]

Originally Posted by vtl

Just cut it with a scalpel. Can also use one of those small ballnosed diamond or stone bits on a dremel to cut the trace, very easy. Would be much more reliable and easier using the buttons on the board than trying to get a pushbutton thats got the correct height for the buttons on the panel.

From the wiring diagram, for the centre console switch looks like the individual button signals are not on the ribbon cable on the back of the switch, the buttons are sent via data to the heater controls, looks like a board mod would probably be the quickest and easiest way to utilize the switch.

If it was me, id pick up another switch from a wrecker that had some some extra buttons like the sunblind or hill descent, then you could put the puttons in your switch and do a pcb mod on it.

Hmm, thanks for the info Vincent, I can look into a board mod, however, I have no idea where to start with that.

I guess I have been looking at it from a hardware perspective as I would need to run the wires to the back of the board anyway. I might have to go back to the drawing board to make this work - for now ill continue on with plan B and look into this further.

[Socket]

Originally Posted by vtl

Just cut it with a scalpel. Can also use one of those small ballnosed diamond or stone bits on a dremel to cut the trace, very easy. Would be much more reliable and easier using the buttons on the board than trying to get a pushbutton thats got the correct height for the buttons on the panel.

From the wiring diagram, for the centre console switch looks like the individual button signals are not on the ribbon cable on the back of the switch, the buttons are sent via data to the heater controls, looks like a board mod would probably be the quickest and easiest way to utilize the switch.

If it was me, id pick up another switch from a wrecker that had some some extra buttons like the sunblind or hill descent, then you could put the puttons in your switch and do a pcb mod on it.

What do you mean by PCB mod Vince?

[vtl]

Originally Posted by Socket

What do you mean by PCB mod Vince?

Modding the PCB by cutting the trace to the button you want to use and soldering wires to the thing you want to control (ie a garage door button or to activate your ejector seat)

Alternatively it might also be possible to code your car to have the rear roller sunblind, fitting the factory switch, and then triggering your device via pin 3/pin 30 on the junction box module. Pins 3 and 30 is a H bridge motor driver to move the sunblind motor up and down). Advantage of this method is no cutting or modding the board.

Connector X14270, pins 3 and 30
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...nblind/fteVfT7

Not sure if the behaviour of the outputs will do what you expect or may throw codes due to not sensing a roller blind motor in the outputs

In the junction box coding:
SOROLLO_LADEABDEC_HANDS -> enables rear roller blind
SOROLLO_T_MAX -> i beleive this is the max temperature at which itll operate
SOROLLO_ENTPRELL_STROM ->my guess is this is time the motor is on per actuation (default value is 500ms)
SOROLLO_I_MAX_C -> I beleive this is the max current itll allow it to draw

Instead of using the motor outputs that alternate the polarity or pin 3/30, you could just hook it up to pin 3 (with diode) and ground, and then it would just give you the positive voltage on activation, and nothing on deactivation

[jard]

Above and beyond thanks Vincent, this sure makes me feel like i'm in uncharted waters.

[Socket]

Originally Posted by vtl

Modding the PCB by cutting the trace to the button you want to use and soldering wires to the thing you want to control (ie a garage door button or to activate your ejector seat)

Alternatively it might also be possible to code your car to have the rear roller sunblind, fitting the factory switch, and then triggering your device via pin 3/pin 30 on the junction box module. Pins 3 and 30 is a H bridge motor driver to move the sunblind motor up and down). Advantage of this method is no cutting or modding the board.

Connector X14270, pins 3 and 30
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...nblind/fteVfT7

Not sure if the behaviour of the outputs will do what you expect or may throw codes due to not sensing a roller blind motor in the outputs

In the junction box coding:
SOROLLO_LADEABDEC_HANDS -> enables rear roller blind
SOROLLO_T_MAX -> i beleive this is the max temperature at which itll operate
SOROLLO_ENTPRELL_STROM ->my guess is this is time the motor is on per actuation (default value is 500ms)
SOROLLO_I_MAX_C -> I beleive this is the max current itll allow it to draw

Instead of using the motor outputs that alternate the polarity or pin 3/30, you could just hook it up to pin 3 (with diode) and ground, and then it would just give you the positive voltage on activation, and nothing on deactivation

Amazing as usual
Now in English LOL